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IPA and safale 05

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Ooops, I meant S-05, that was a typo!

I saw Omaha on your location, I was there on business and we went to Upstream and the Farnam (?) brewery/pub. Both had good offerings!

My bad, too. Figured you meant s-23, and maybe doing a steam beer. I live by Upstream west and know the head brewer well. Nice guy and very in to making good beer. Farnam House is owned by two previous homebrewers and do a good job, too. If you're ever back, or anyone else for that matter, drop me a PM. I might know a few other breweries to hit.
 
I'm sorry, you're totally right.
I confused rehydration temp with pitching temp. Probably had a few when I wrote that...
 
That...was a first. The beer has calmed down and I was able to put an airlock on several days ago. That must be specific to S 05? Other yeasts have not foamed like that
 
That...was a first. The beer has calmed down and I was able to put an airlock on several days ago. That must be specific to S 05? Other yeasts have not foamed like that

Depending on the grain bill, OG, pitch rate, fermentation rate, etc ANY yeast is capable of a violent fermentation with lots of blowoff. US-05 is actually not particularly known for having huge krausen like WY1318, WLP530/WY3787, and hefe yeasts are notorious for
 
Kinda jumping in here because I'm working through an IPA with US-05 myself, my starting gravity was 1.061 and after a week at between 63-67f (actual fermentation temps) my fermentation seems to have slowed a bit but is still pretty active -- I mean the wort is still swirling around and there is still a lot of airlock activity. I check the gravity today fro the first time and I was down to 1.035 or so (I'm using a refractometer) ... BeerSmith gave me a Estimated final OG of 1.016 so I still have a way to go...

First time with this yeast, how long can I expect this to take? (How long is a piece of string right?)

I still have a solid inch thick krausen but its fallen a bit.
 
You probably know this, but refractometers aren't accurate once fermentation begins. You need some kind of correction to account for the alcohol present. seanterrill.com has a good one, but I think the site is down.
 
After you pitch a refractometer is no good, the Alcohol gets in the way and only a hydrometer will do. After the krausen falls back in bump the temp a few degrees to encourage the yeast to clean up amd check a few days after that.
 
Ooh -- this is why you guys are invaluable.... I can't use my hydrometer right now because I don't have anything tall and slim enough to get a measurement without taking out PINTs of beer and I'm also using a carboy :)

If anybody has a recommendation for a good vessel for a (probably 12") hydrometer I'm all ears. I didn't bother taking readings on my first brew so when I unpackaged it on brew day I was really surprised by its size.
 
Ooh -- this is why you guys are invaluable.... I can't use my hydrometer right now because I don't have anything tall and slim enough to get a measurement without taking out PINTs of beer and I'm also using a carboy :)

If anybody has a recommendation for a good vessel for a (probably 12") hydrometer I'm all ears. I didn't bother taking readings on my first brew so when I unpackaged it on brew day I was really surprised by its size.

Let the yeast work! Don't check anything for at least 2 weeks, 3 is even better. I still can't figure out why some insist on opening up their brews and risking infection way before it's time. :confused:
 
If you have the tube that it original came packaged in, you can use that. Or, just use the refractometer and a calculator to correct the reading like this one.
 
Let the yeast work! Don't check anything for at least 2 weeks, 3 is even better. I still can't figure out why some insist on opening up their brews and risking infection way before it's time. :confused:

Sometimes you are hoping to get a beer in bottles because you have things you want it to be ready for ... :)

Two weeks from now I am on vacation for a bit and it'll be a complete bummer if I am not bottled before then because I'm hoping to take some camping when I get back a couple of weeks after. I'm dry hopping as well so keeping an eye on things just helps.

It is no tragedy if I miss that window but that is why this batch exists.
 
80' isn't hot enough to kill the yeast - has to be about 100 - 105 for that.
80 is a bit on the warm side - the OP will probably have some esters in there he probably didn't want (it may work out though...)

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I pitch at 70 - 80, so I asked if op did.
I was trying to find if op had pitched too hot.
 
Sorry, I wasn't clear. I pitch at 70 - 80, so I asked if op did.
I was trying to find if op had pitched too hot.

It's all good. It totally worked if you read through all the post. Yeast work more than expected. I bottle tomorrow. Hit it with a 5 day dry hop. I held back from doing the 7 day bc when I smell it it's pretty hoppy and tastes bitter. I wasn't sure it really needed the two extra days. So keep you all posted. Hope it turns out to my liking. Looks good.
 
My last, version 6 DIPA, got 20oz, 5 gallons. Got 1/2lbs of cascade for like 5.99 I think at NB.
I had 3oz in the freezer, and hit with an oz of Colombus at 60.
All late/whirlpool and 7oz dry hop 4 days.
At 2 weeks it's an aroma bomb, bitterness is right in line with the style, but not sure about the flavor of all cascade.
Next time I'm skipping the 60 minute addition, and probably 2oz Amarillo at 10 & 5, 2oz cascade at 0, 2oz cascade WP, and 4oz centennial dry hop.
Something like that...
 
Yeah the issue was my zero experience with safale 05. But today is the 2 wks waiting period and I am having one now and it's pretty good. Nice hoppy IPA. The only thing I'd like is too see it a bit crisper. I used Irish moss and idk, maybe that just the way this looks. Enough critical review...it's a good beer. Couldn't ask for more. Think it ended up being 5.6 or 5.8%
 
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