Interested in an Electric Kettle Set Up? Come on in....

[SpikeBrewing]

The 1" couplers just got in today. They need to machined to the straight thread. The machinist is finishing up the tooling for the welding. I'll get on him and hopefully it'll be done by the weekend.

 

[RiverRat280]

Will you offer just the coupler as well for those of us that want to add it to our kettle?

 

[lotbfan]

yes, do want!

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Will you offer just the coupler as well for those of us that want to add it to our kettle?

We don't like dealing with small hardware items so we'll only be selling it as an add on to our kettles.

 

[shaunbader]

Update?

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Update?

1" couplers are in - Getting machined this week
Tooling is done for welding

All we have left to do is do some practice welds and make sure everything is G2G.

We'll probably start offering them next week. Thanks for the patience guys! :rockin:

-Ben

 

[Chriso]

Perfect timing on this, I'm looking into switching over to electric... I would normally never have considered a welded option, I'm a weldless fan all the way, as I'm a cheapskate and like things I know how to take apart and put back together -- but hey, the heater element is one place where I could absolutely see the benefit in having a sure-fire seal, so I'll consider it. (Take that w/ a grain of salt, as I'm an aluminum guy too, same reason, cheap & easier to drill than SS!) Looking forward to more info after your test welds are done.

 

[shaunbader]

SpikeBrewing - Can you give a little more info about your pots. Type and guage of SS, dimensions per pot size, is the bottom triple clad if so what material is sandwich between the SS.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

All the specifics on our pots can be seen on our website (www.spikebrewing.com). The kettles are made from 1mm thick stainless or about 19 gauge. They are all single layer kettles.

-Ben

 

[everty2007]

I brewed my first batch in my new spike brew kettle. I had no burning to the bottom. The weld and very nicely done and the couplings are threaded perfectly and heavy duty. I dud 2 vertical with the optional sight glass coupler. Very satisfied with my purchase. The handles are very sturdy. Thank you Spike Brewing, look forward to adding the 1" coupling for my future electric conversion.

 

[Bsquared]

I think I'm going to want a 20gallon one when you get it all set up. I'm going to need an extra two 1/2 coupler for the the HEX. What do you charge per extra coupling?

 

[SpikeBrewing]

***UPDATE***

Our welder will be welding the finished 1" couplers into a few kettles this weekend. Once those are done I will do some testing on them. We should be ready to take orders by next week

I think I'm going to want a 20gallon one when you get it all set up. I'm going to need an extra two 1/2 coupler for the the HEX. What do you charge per extra coupling?

The standard 20gal comes with (2) 1/2" couplers. Each additional coupler after that would be $20.

 

[Marchborne]

The closer it is to plug and play the more interested I am. Electricity is an area where I get nervous with diy

THIS. I would also be interested in as plug-n-play a system as y'all could create. Although I'm guessing I brew on a smaller scale (still on 5 gallon batches) than most.

BTW: The 6-gal aluminum kettle arrived, and the partial-mash saison from it;'s first brew is happily churning away in the basement. Many thanks, the kettle looks like it'll work great for smaller batches on my glass stovetop.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

THIS. I would also be interested in as plug-n-play a system as y'all could create. Although I'm guessing I brew on a smaller scale (still on 5 gallon batches) than most.

BTW: The 6-gal aluminum kettle arrived, and the partial-mash saison from it;'s first brew is happily churning away in the basement. Many thanks, the kettle looks like it'll work great for smaller batches on my glass stovetop.

A plug and play is something we want to do BUT there is a lot of liability there. In the mean time we will be recommending that any element wiring be done by an electrician. 240V is nothing to mess around with!

***UPDATE***

Our test elements (one 110V and one 240V) will be in this week. I will be picking up the test units today with the 1" couplers installed with the ground lead welded to that. Hopefully I'll have some pics tonight...... :rockin:

 

[everty2007]

Sweet cant wait to see the final product and results.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

***BIG Update***

So we're almost there! Thanks for all the patience up until this point! The 'frankenkettle' is back with a bunch of 1" couplers welded into it. Below are the pics of the final product. You'll see that a 1" water heater element will screw all the way into the coupler. We have also welded on a 1/4-20 nut for use as a ground.

Many people have been asking for a 'plug and play' system. We will initially only offering the 1" coupler, ground lead and welding. We want to bring in an electrician to help develop a system since the liability is higher.

Enjoy...

1" coupler with ground lead

Camco 02963 5500W 240V water heater element installed

Heater element screwed in all the way without gasket

Heater element screwed in with gasket

 

[tre9er]

If you could come up with a nice housing for the element to shield the wires/connections from liquid that would be "plug n play" enough for 99% of people. Let them simply connect 3 wires to a H/D extension cord and just about anyone can do that. Something that easily affixes to cover the element base yet is 99.9% water-tight. Perhaps if the coupler were also threaded on the outside then a PVC cap with a cord-grip could thread right on, voila.

 

[lotbfan]

Even if you didn't want to make it completely assembled, a "kit" that had the parts all included and suggested assembly directions would make me bite, then if it isn't wired right and I burn my house down it would be on me i am assuming. Alternately a suggested addon list with items that are also available separately from your site that I could add in for the same shipment, and said directions would work for me. I just hate going through 5 different vendors, hoping that when I can't find the right piece that my guess at a like part will still work, and I usually give up, especially on electrical things. This is the main reason I never made a brutus 10 (no interest in trying to make the control panel and nobody sells reasonable priced models) and haven't done electric brewing yet (getting the parts for the element are too dicey for me).

 

[DustBow]

If you could come up with a nice housing for the element to shield the wires/connections from liquid that would be "plug n play" enough for 99% of people. Let them simply connect 3 wires to a H/D extension cord and just about anyone can do that. Something that easily affixes to cover the element base yet is 99.9% water-tight. Perhaps if the coupler were also threaded on the outside then a PVC cap with a cord-grip could thread right on, voila.

There are many easy ways to cover the connection from JB Weld and a PVC coupling to more elaborate electrical boxes to simple heat shrink tubing.

Getting the 1" coupler on there is the biggest obstacle for most people and the grounding lug is really nice too.

Good job Spike

 

[tre9er]

There are many easy ways to cover the connection from JB Weld and a PVC coupling to more elaborate electrical boxes to simple heat shrink tubing.

I know, I have 4 elements installed.

I was giving suggestions for making this less intimidating for someone who isn't a DIY person and doesn't want to do any of that. The term "plug-n-play" was used. My suggestion was to make it more "plug-n-play" for those people.

 

[tre9er]

Something that I think many people don't understand is that having electric elements doesn't REQUIRE a sophisticated controller, etc. Mine are simply elements with glorified extension cords running to the wall outlets. Yeah, I don't have precision control, but I'm using them for HLT and BK...why do I need control there again? I've brewed a dozen batches with this setup and the selling point for me was that I could do it in the basement, which I can't do with propane and no stove is gonna heat 10g of wort.

It's not as intimidating as it seems, is all I'm saying.

 

[uberg33k]

Something that I think many people don't understand is that having electric elements doesn't REQUIRE a sophisticated controller, etc. Mine are simply elements with glorified extension cords running to the wall outlets. Yeah, I don't have precision control, but I'm using them for HLT and BK...why do I need control there again? I've brewed a dozen batches with this setup and the selling point for me was that I could do it in the basement, which I can't do with propane and no stove is gonna heat 10g of wort.

It's not as intimidating as it seems, is all I'm saying.

I'd definitely agree that the BK just needs to be on/off and powerful enough to get a rolling boil going. That can be really simple. However, I'd think you'd want your HLT to have a bit more sophistication since strike temperature matters. If you're recirculating, that kind of control becomes even more important.

 

[tre9er]

I'd definitely agree that the BK just needs to be on/off and powerful enough to get a rolling boil going. That can be really simple. However, I'd think you'd want your HLT to have a bit more sophistication since strike temperature matters. If you're recirculating, that kind of control becomes even more important.

Right, IF you're recirculating.

Look at it like this: When you use propane to heat strike water you just crank it up and watch the thermometer. When it get's where you want it, you turn off the heat and move the water to the MLT.

It's the same exact principle with a basic eHLT setup. Fire up element(s), watch thermometer, turn off when at temp.

I'm saying as a means to brew indoors with electricity, it can be incredibly simple. If you want more automation and sophistication, yes, you need temp control and such.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Even if you didn't want to make it completely assembled, a "kit" that had the parts all included and suggested assembly directions would make me bite, then if it isn't wired right and I burn my house down it would be on me i am assuming. Alternately a suggested addon list with items that are also available separately from your site that I could add in for the same shipment, and said directions would work for me. I just hate going through 5 different vendors, hoping that when I can't find the right piece that my guess at a like part will still work, and I usually give up, especially on electrical things. This is the main reason I never made a brutus 10 (no interest in trying to make the control panel and nobody sells reasonable priced models) and haven't done electric brewing yet (getting the parts for the element are too dicey for me).

A plug and play is in the works but we want the system to be fully tested.

I view giving an un-experienced person a 'kit' to giving someone a gun, magazine and bullets hoping they know how to use it. Everyone is so sue happy now-a-days that even good intentions get people in trouble. In the mean time we'll be offering just the 1" coupler and ground for the DIY's. The kit will be to follow.

 

[tre9er]

Sorry to muddy-up your thread, Spike. Kudos on the coupler though. I had to drill another hole in my HLT for the ground wire...something I wasn't happy about.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Sorry to muddy-up your thread, Spike. Kudos on the coupler though. I had to drill another hole in my HLT for the ground wire...something I wasn't happy about.

Feel free to muddy. The open forum is a great place for customers to voice their opinions and vendors to design products based off those.

 

[Retrofit]

Idiot question on that electric coupler.

Can that be welded on from the outside only?

I've built my own RIMS, I'm super handy, but I'm not a welder. I've been thinking of converting an uncut keg into a still. I was wondering if I popped a hole in a keg with our taking the top off, if that coupler could be welded in place. I know nothing about welding so the answer might be no. If its yes, I could build a sweet electric still.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[tre9er]

Idiot question on that electric coupler.

Can that be welded on from the outside only?

I've built my own RIMS, I'm super handy, but I'm not a welder. I've been thinking of converting an uncut keg into a still. I was wondering if I popped a hole in a keg with our taking the top off, if that coupler could be welded in place. I know nothing about welding so the answer might be no. If its yes, I could build a sweet electric still.

Any advice is appreciated.

Judging from the pictures, I'd say it WAS welded from the outside.

 

[SpikeBrewing]

Idiot question on that electric coupler.

Can that be welded on from the outside only?

I've built my own RIMS, I'm super handy, but I'm not a welder. I've been thinking of converting an uncut keg into a still. I was wondering if I popped a hole in a keg with our taking the top off, if that coupler could be welded in place. I know nothing about welding so the answer might be no. If its yes, I could build a sweet electric still.

Any advice is appreciated.

The coupler was welded from the outside. It's not as easy as popping a hole in welding. We special drills, punches and tooling to get the coupler into place. If that's not done you'll have a terrible looking backside weld. You can also back purge with argon but that costs $$. Welding stainless is not easy (although everyone thinks it is). So many times people will bring their stuff into a welder that has "welded stainless 1000's of times" but their end product ends up like this:

We could have it welded up if you sent it to us but shipping is going to be $$$

 

[lschiavo]

If you could come up with a nice housing for the element to shield the wires/connections from liquid that would be "plug n play" enough for 99% of people. Let them simply connect 3 wires to a H/D extension cord and just about anyone can do that. Something that easily affixes to cover the element base yet is 99.9% water-tight. Perhaps if the coupler were also threaded on the outside then a PVC cap with a cord-grip could thread right on, voila.

They exist:

Wattco or Chromalox makes them and they only cost $200-$400 and up These are of course commercial/industrial products. It sure would be nice if Camco or some other manufacturer would make something like this more affordable but I'm sure the electric brewer market is not large enough to make it worthwile.

The coupler threaded on the outside is a good idea but any leaks would end up inside the electrical box.