Inkbird ITC 308 settings

[Jhedrick83]

I was messing with using different fermentation temps and I realized something about my Inkbird ITC 308 that I use to control the temp fermentation chamber. When you set the Heat/Cool ranges, once it trips a threshold, it heats/cools back to the target number rather than u see the threshold. For example, if it set it to 66 degrees with a heat difference of 1 degree and a cooling difference of 12 degrees, it will keep the floor of 66, but if I hit 76 degrees, it will chill all the way back down to 66. All I want to do is keep it in the range. Any suggestions? Is there a temp controller that may better suit my needs?

 

[day_trippr]

I'd simply set the low and high thresholds for whatever differential spread you feel comfortable with, and centered on your desired sweet spot...

Cheers!

 

[Jhedrick83]

I'd simply set the low and high thresholds for whatever differential spread you feel comfortable with, and centered on your desired sweet spot...

Cheers!

The issue is that’s what I tried to do. I have a Tripel I wanted to pitch at 66 and let free rise to a max of 78. So a 12 degree spread and I set it to a median of 72 with HD and CD at 6 each. Because the freezer is in my garage, it dipped below the 66. I went out to finish cleaning up and it had heated the fermenter to 70 and was still heating, presumably trying to hit the median of 72. Which is way higher than I wanted it to start at. When it gets out of range it heats/cools to the median number not just enough to get it back in range.

 

[hotbeer]

TS is the actual target temp. HD and CD are relative temps either side of that.

Your second post sort of confused me as to what you actually have them set to when compared to your first post.

Might just be I need a third cup of coffee.

 

[DBhomebrew]

The 308 doesn't do the free rise very well. I typically start at the low number with a 1° diff and raise it a degree every 12 or 24hrs.

 

[Jhedrick83]

TS is the actual target temp. HD and CD are relative temps either side of that.

Your second post sort of confused me as to what you actually have them set to when compared to your first post.

Might just be I need a third cup of coffee.

Could be that I don’t need to post at midnight right before bed and after a few homebrews!
What I did last night when I noticed the problem was set the TS for 66 with a HD of 1 and a CD of 12. I figured at least until fermentation really gets underway, that might be the best way to handle it.

@DBhomebrew That’s what I had done in the past. I was trying to find a way to let it free rise. Any suggestions on a Tim controller that might better suit what I’m looking to do?

 

[hotbeer]

If you aren't wanting the cooling on for so long while in the range, then why not reverse your CD and HD values? Or even them up and just shoot for the middle.

Bus as another mentioned, with these inexpensive controllers, you likely will have to adjust those several times till after the krausen and the yeast isn't putting out so much of it's own heat.

 

[Jhedrick83]

If you aren't wanting the cooling on for so long while in the range, then why not reverse your CD and HD values? Or even them up and just shoot for the middle.

Bus as another mentioned, with these inexpensive controllers, you likely will have to adjust those several times till after the krausen and the yeast isn't putting out so much of it's own heat.

I did it that way as I want the floor to be a firm limit but let fermentation drive the temp rise. I think I’ll keep the top end on it but raise the floor and lower the CD according daily.

I just wish it was something I could program to keep the range rather than it trying to force back to the target number each time it hits an upper/lower limit.

 

[day_trippr]

The concept of "free rise" needs to be bounded a bit to be manageable by a programmable device as they all need pre-defined parameters to work. If one can plot out the desired target beer temperature vs time one can use the "Beer Profile" feature provided by the classic BrewPi controller or any of its derivatives such as Fermentrack.

If the predicted curve is correct the beer could indeed "free rise", but if it's early or late it'll get nudged along by the actors (fridge and heater)...

Cheers!

 

[palmtrees]

When I want to do free rises, I initially set it to pitching temps. Once it's there and the yeast is in, I unplug the heater and bump the temp up to my max, say 74 for a saison or something. It let's the wort do it's own thing and only kicks on the cooling when fermentation is really rocking to make sure things don't get out of control. Worked great for me so far!

 

[Jhedrick83]

I may have to check out BrewPi

 

[superiorsat]

I personally have a 2 degree differential set. If I go less than that the mini heater and the fridge are fighting back and fourth to maintain that temp. With the 3 minute compressor delay set it has them working in harmony. As far as free rise I use ambient temp in my fridge and set it to the minimum I want. I use a laser temp gauge to keep track of the fermenting temp from the side of the fermenter. After things get going that will be give or take 8 degrees hotter. From there if it isn't rising to the zone I want I'll give it a push by upping the ambient temp, or if it looking like it is going to go to high I'll hold it back by lowering the ambient temp. Never had any problems this way, but I could see you shocking your yeast if it is raising to 72 then slammed back down to 66.

 

[DavidWood2115]

Here is my procedure for free rise with the InkBird ITC-308:

• Determine your target fermentation temperature Tf
• Chill wort to initial temperature Tw (63-65F for my well water)
• Set Inkbird target temperature parameter TT to Tf-1
• Set Inkbird cooling back parameter to 1F
• Set Inkbird heating hysteresis parameter to TT-Tw+1
• Set Inkbird high temperature alarm parameter to TT
• Hold temperature probe in your hand long enough that it triggers a cooling cycle
• Install temperature probe in/on fermenter
• Monitor Inkbird, when high temperature alarm occurs
  • Reset Inkbird heating hysteresis parameter to 1F
  • Reset high temperature alarm parameter to TT+3

The key step is to trigger a cooling cycle before you insert/tape on the temperature probe.

 

[McMullan]

When I want temp to free rise, under the yeast's own steam, which is most ales, for me, I unplug the fridge from the temp controller. This time of year - when it's very cold outside and cool in my brewery in the basement - I'll set the heating so the controller prevents the temp dropping below where it is when I set it. This avoids that inevitable ping-pong effect with these types of controllers.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

I was messing with using different fermentation temps and I realized something about my Inkbird ITC 308 that I use to control the temp fermentation chamber. When you set the Heat/Cool ranges, once it trips a threshold, it heats/cools back to the target number rather than u see the threshold. For example, if it set it to 66 degrees with a heat difference of 1 degree and a cooling difference of 12 degrees, it will keep the floor of 66, but if I hit 76 degrees, it will chill all the way back down to 66. All I want to do is keep it in the range. Any suggestions? Is there a temp controller that may better suit my needs?

Yeah. I love the Inkbird controllers and they have lots of good features that work for homebrewing, but I do wish you could set a temp range. I think most other inexpensive controllers work the same way. I find that I just have to babysit my controller a bit when I am doing something like a free rise. If I wanted a Saison to top out at 76F, I need to raise up the target temperature once or twice a day to keep it closer to the current beer temp. If the beer is not getting warm enough, I might set the target temp warmer to kick in some heat.

The Wi-Fi version might handy, in that you can monitor and change temps easier.