Don't worry about BrewBeemer. If he bought a Lamborghini he would find flaws with it.
Not knocking you BrewBeemer, but you have never talked about a product being good or acceptable. I cannot wait to see some pieces of your brewery as it must be very top shelf.
I have total confidence in all the mill providers. Fred from Monster Mills is extremely dedicated to customer service and has answer several of my questions whenever asked, and quickly.
I think I am going to go with a JSP dual adjustable maltmill just because my local guy has one, and has been running it everyday for around 15 years and it still produces a perfect crush like it was brand new. Plus it is HUGE 10" rollers. boo yaa.
Every mill will do a great job as is often showed here.
Kabouter; at the moment you got me at a bad short end of me I do not want to be that way be it on HBT or the many other forums I belong to besides I respect you too much, that clear fellow brewer? (cool I hope?). Me being an 'ex autocross driver for dad thru my dad's 75 RSR Porsche in the 70's with a factory racing mechanic also close family friend as support plus dad P51 and P38 lead mechanic with a machine shop me a A&P dad and i've been around a few turns in the air the tacks and cars in our life. And yes I have driven a couple Lambo's over the years old and new and I do not like new vs porsches.
I'll take an old 512 BB Ferrari anyday on the open road for a wide ego toad vs any new Lambo unless it's pre 72. JMO's after driving them all and not on the street either with a few beyond their limits on the track AKA facing traffic oops we all have done it if not your a damn lying driver.
Yes I still like the design of the MM3-2.0, the best out there this is why I went ahead and spent the extra $100 more vs a $150 mill. A 100% gear drive would be nice with sealed ball bearings but cost would kill production, JMO's again. It's that mine is a mess scared up from the "TESTING" and called "Passed as OK" (?) by Fred or his helpers, no way could it of been tested in the condition it was in. This repeating my reply from above. Fred do you still have all those photos of the bushings with their different measurements I took with my dial Caliper, marked down on the endplates next to each bushing with the black sharpie plus the scared up endplates? I still do, did you ever post those digital photos on this forum as proof that I am not blowing smoke out of my AZZ or up yours? Post them please.
After receiving this mill and how it was not correct I pulled the end plates off, removed the rubber bands and found all the scar damage into the end plates from the sharp edge after you broke the end edges of the rollers ends. These sharp edges with the twisted up out of parallel end plates caused this scaring into the aluminum end plates. Anyone can see this, hell pissed off the wife as she paid for this anniversary gift to me after seeing my disbelief. Having the bushings stick out at different levels above the end plates facing the rollers inward, example 1st plate bushings .007", .015" (1/2"drive bushing at .015"), eccentric in stainless is below the end plate by .014" the bushing in same stainless eccentric .003 above the stainless eccentric or .011" below the end plate surface.
The other side plate all .373" bushing ID's, bushings inward by .010", .018", stainless eccentric .008" plus the bushing above the stainless eccentric an additional .086" or a total .094" into the rollers from the end plate.
those pictures right away. So far the box is in a corner as I had a second spinal surgery so this mill was last on my mind pain overpowered my feelings on what I had purchased. It can be saved hence why I still like it over any other brand including the Crankenstein or stien (sp) Mill. Without repeating my first reply too much I will rework it to function vs a dust collector it's at the moment in the box on the breakfast room floor from day one of delivery. I will save it and work with what I got when I mend again. Two options.
First; press the bushings flush and run 0.008" X 1 3/4" nylon washers of .375" ID with 0.002" end clearance with aluminum top and bottom stock of 3/8" to maintain parallel end plates and the solid 0.002" end clearances, this clearance also being tight to delay flour, dust and dirt from entering the bushings.
The spindle shafts also need polishing as they are too hard on the oillite bushing why increase uneccessary wear on them as the 1/2" drive is like a record but finer grooves? I like shiney spindles.
One suggestion Fred, the radius on the thumb screws do not match the radius pocket in the stainless adjusters as well they are not centered causing the stainless eccentrics to follow the off center radius on the ends of the thumb screws. This looks like a quick radius on a 1" belt sander not in a lathe of collet. This makes the stainless eccentics pull away until below the end plates then the roller will rub on the aluminum end plates or depending when they tighten up they can pull the eccentrics in deeper. Steel on smooth stainless slips. I found that a short slug of copper 1/4" long that just fits thru the threaded hole "bites better into the stainless eccentric" being soft plus made to the matching radius of the eccentrics radius ring. Works for me in my testing on the first day of delivery of this mill. Still a dust collector nothing done to it since that delivered day, the mill keeps the computer company.
Done with my venting and getting my point across. Case closed i'll still keep this mill and do a little work when i'm able in the future. Fly at home without airport security time. Cheers.