I want a grain mill.. any opinions on this one?

[BADS197]

I'm pretty much settled on this one but was curious if anyone has/had any experience with it?

I know nothing about grain mills but this one seems pretty beefy and reads pretty good on the site. I was going to drop 100 bones on a BC but don't mind dropping a little extra if it will be something that will last a lifetime.

I'll probaby be doing the 5gallon batches once a month at the most twice depending on funds and resources.

I have a cordless Dewalt drill or if necessary a powercord driven impact gun (aka electric air wrench) that should have enough torque to drive it.

Welcome to Monster Brewing Hardware

Any input would be appreciated.

thanks
jake

 

[Catt22]

That's an excellent mill and you are sure to be happy with it. Generally speaking, every dedicated malt mill available will do a good jog for you and when adjusted and used properly, any of them can produce excellent grist. Nearly everyone loves their mill regardless of which one they actually have, so it's very rare to hear any negatives.

 

[Dog House Brew]

I have it with the stainless roll option. There is no way I could expect to get a better crush. I love it. Building the hopper is easy. My hopper holds 15# of grain and I got an old Black & Decker 1/2" drill that runs at 225 rpm. I have it set at .035. I'm sure all the other mills are great, but I love my Monster Mill. One of the best brewing investments I've made! :rockin:

 

[BADS197]

I have it with the stainless roll option. There is no way I could expect to get a better crush. I love it. Building the hopper is easy. My hopper holds 15# of grain and I got an old Black & Decker 1/2" drill that runs at 225 rpm. I have it set at .035. I'm sure all the other mills are great, but I love my Monster Mill. One of the best brewing investments I've made! :rockin:

Do you have a picture of your setup?

I was thinking attached to some wood but bolted to hte underside of a lid for a 6.5 gallon bucket.

This way it would go right into the bucket and would not take up extra storage room, also preserving the bucket for sanitizing bottles when not used for grain.

 

[Dubcut]

I got the BC for my second all grain, and I think it did very well, because I hit around 77 percent efficiency.

 

[Brewers Hardware]

That's an excellent mill and you are sure to be happy with it. Generally speaking, every dedicated malt mill available will do a good jog for you and when adjusted and used properly, any of them can produce excellent grist. Nearly everyone loves their mill regardless of which one they actually have, so it's very rare to hear any negatives.

That's almost the exact comment I was going to make.

I have that mill, well, the older version when it was CrankandStein. It works very well.

 

[wilserbrewer]

The three roller MM is a brute! That thing could probably grind grain for a goodsize brewpub.

 

[Catt22]

Do you have a picture of your setup?

I was thinking attached to some wood but bolted to hte underside of a lid for a 6.5 gallon bucket.

This way it would go right into the bucket and would not take up extra storage room, also preserving the bucket for sanitizing bottles when not used for grain.

I think you may want to consider a more substantial base for that mill. I think you could successfully do what you described, but the mill itself is quite heavy and you don't want to drop it. I bet that you will want to motorize it before long and a better platform would make that easier.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I have the Monster Mill 3-2.0, three rollers of 2" diameter.
It came with one of the adjusting eccentrict bushings 0.084" out of it's bore so no way could of been assembled and tested as the instructions said at the factory instruction sheet before shipping and signed off as a ok unit. Besides this the adjuster sticks into the roller a additional 0.008" so there is ac 0.092" gap on the other two rollers end clearance. Same end plate has the other two bushings set into the roller direction by 0.010" and 0.018". How can you hold any side clearance with this mess I ask? The other end plate has 0.015" on the gap adjuster, the other two bushings set into the rollers0.007" and 0.015". A totally usless mess unless your a dump dirt into your engine while adding oil type of person or a "CaveMan". It was tested with the end plates crooked causing scares to be dug into the end plates due to this bushing misalignments unless 0.092" sloppy end clearance is a normal production quality control standard with the eccentric bottomed out without any end clearance? The bushings are all over the place is stickout above the endplates for clearance of the rollers from the end plates. The radiused edges of these thin bushings is a joke and will wear away in no time causing the rollers to wear into the end plate from the bushing edge wear then start contacting the aluminum end plates. They should of used flanged bushings allowing for a lot more contact area for the end of the rollers to wear against. The spindles of the rollers are machined off a production lathe hence not smooth causing uneccessary quick wear on the oilite bushings. They need polishing. The rollers have sharp edges that also need dressing to prevent any more end plate scaring from their testing and normat use. The bushings have a standard ID bore, can not say that for the roller spindles as they are all over the place in diameters. This mill needs to be taken apart and gone thru before being entered into service. The end plates need to be mounted on a 1/4" aluminum plate top and bottom that is longer than the mill to allow for mounting under your table as well to keep the end clearances locked solid and in alighment for longer bushing life. It will also need a mounting point for the discharge chute. I would run a LoveJoy drive direct vs a pulley reduction causing excess side loading on the small drive bushing. I have the 1/2" drive bushing with no flats ordered special for no chuck off a drill motor as I will mill a keyway for a LoveJoy drive unit coupling.
A 6" long exit chute is needed to aim the grain into a bucket not on the floor as well make your own hopper up top.
For $246 I was told "it was common for the bushings to come out of its pressed in bore during shipping", I call this B/S and lack of quality control. Made in China I must ask myself? With bushings set flush, the scars on the end plates dressed as well the roller spindles and roller ends polished assembley can begin. I will add Nylon .006" 3/8" shaft diameter by 2" diameter washers between all rollers and the end plates with the drive shaft having a 1/2" ID. This will be set up with the above aluminum frame top and bottom as well a total 0.002" roller end clearances. This to prevent dust and dirt entering the bushings and spindles greatly reducing bushing and spindle wear keeping these tight end clearances. The thumb screw with a ground rounded end contacts a stainless radiused ring to hold the stainless eccentric from falling out as well rotating out of crush clearance adjustment. They recommend using pliers to lock this thunb screw tight from coming loose loosing the set clearance.
A short slug of brass that just fits in the threaded locks bore grabs this eccentric better than the rounded end steel thumb wing nut against the machined stainless radius groove is what I have found out. A mill that will live a lot longer if manufactured under better quality controls. Done venting on my $246 investment. I feel like a dope after hearing the great results from $112 mills being used. I had to say my comments done venting and sorry Fred you let me down at my $246 a pop.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Wow Brewbeemer...sorry to hear of your displeasure w/ the mill. Nice accurate review. Have you seen the Australian 3 roller mill? Looked like a step up from the MM in some aspects but the shipping plus price puts up $$$.

With your knowledge base, and high standards, sound like you should be building mills, rather than rebuilding new units to a higher spec.

Yea, I guess for $246, I would have also expected something a little tighter. Sounds like you have a nice plan to mod the MM to be the mill it should of been out of the box. Do post some photos when you have that mill set up and motorized...should be the Maybach of mills. For me, I think I'll stick w/ my Corona mill, at least w/ that I'm certain it is a piece of junk that was manufactured for $3.26 (materials and labor) in China. It is cast iron and will most likely be around after I'm gone.

 

[Tonedef131]

I have the MM-2 and I love it. Since you are only crushing a 5 gallons batch worth per month I would think any of the Monster Mills would last your lifetime. I have had mine for over a year, I brew a ton and a couple guys from my club come use it to. It has milled hundreds and hundreds of pounds of grain and hasn't shown any signs of wear so far.

 

[luvmy40]

If you are really only going to be brewing once or twice a month I would highly recommend going with the BC and using the extra $ to upgrade something else or buy grain, hops...
The Barley Crusher is a great value even if it isn't as grunt worthy(channel Tim Taylor here) as the Monster Mill.

 

[BADS197]

Is there any difference in "quality" of the crush between a 2 and 3 roller mill?

I was looking at this one because it crushed the grain twice, once with the first set and once witht he second set. It read like the first one did one thing and the second set did another?

I'm not sure what makes a good crush for grain. Also if the crush affects efficiency in any way, I want the best odds of getting the most out of it.

 

[Catt22]

Is there any difference in "quality" of the crush between a 2 and 3 roller mill?

I was looking at this one because it crushed the grain twice, once with the first set and once witht he second set. It read like the first one did one thing and the second set did another?

I'm not sure what makes a good crush for grain. Also if the crush affects efficiency in any way, I want the best odds of getting the most out of it.

No, there's no difference in the quality of the crush. You can get an excellent crush from any dedicated malt mill currently on the market if it is properly adjusted and used correctly. This comment is sure to create a controversy, eh?

 

[wilserbrewer]

Sorry to perhaps confuse the issue further, but I feel you can get a good crush, or a poor crush from almost any mill depending upon how the mill is set. The mill operator will determine the mills output quality more than the specific brand, or type of mill.

While a 3 roller is considered a "top of pyramid" mill design, it is most likely more than you need brewing a batch or two a month.

Rather than concentrating on buying the "best" mill to achieve success, I think you are far better off concentrating on how to use and adjust your mill, and how best to recognize a good crush.

 

[rico567]

Sorry to perhaps confuse the issue further, but I feel you can get a good crush, or a poor crush from almost any mill depending upon how the mill is set. The mill operator will determine the mills output quality more than the specific brand, or type of mill.

While a 3 roller is considered a "top of pyramid" mill design, it is most likely more than you need brewing a batch or two a month.

Rather than concentrating on buying the "best" mill to achieve success, I think you are far better off concentrating on how to use and adjust your mill, and how best to recognize a good crush.

I agree with this post, particularly the part about "it is most likely more than you need brewing a batch or two a month." I resemble that remark, and I wasn't about to drop $150 and up on a roller mill. I got a Corona mill under its "Victoria" avatar for $24 shipped off eBay, mounted it in a bucket so it doesn't spray the grist all over, and it sure seems to do a good job.

Note: I didn't say "great" or that I may not have some gadget envy at some point looking at another guy's Barley Crusher or whatever. It's just, as the Krauts say, "Gut genug*."

* Good enough.....

 

[BADS197]

ok, given all the information I will probably step it back a notch and just get the MM2.

I'm a gadget whore and like/want the best of everything but I think I'll heed the info/knowledge of everyone here and stick with a good two roller mill like the MM2.

The extra cash I save will go toward my conical that I'm trying to justify to my gf.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'm a gadget whore and like/want the best of everything.... .

Oh, well, in that case, get the big ass expensive 3 roller mill, hell, get it in stainless, it's only like a "nuther hunerd" dollars.

Plus if you are a true gadget whore, the gadgetry might be of more value than the end result.

 

[BADS197]

True true...

I do fancy my gadgets...

I'll probably commit to (purchase) the MM2 before I change my mind and spend money I don't have to. I just want a good crush.

 

[Mongo64]

Just a quick question BrewBeemer. Sounds like you are unhappy with yours; just wondering if you asked about getting a replacement/refund. From the website, it sounds like the warranty on the Monster mills is pretty generous. Just curious about your experience since I was thinking about ordering a MM-2.

 

[fsfrancis]

The poster with problems with his mill hasn't asked for a refund. If he did, and he sent it back, he'd get a full refund. I stand behind my mill, and my customer service record.

Thanks,

~~fred francis
Monster Brewing Hardware

 

[BADS197]

The poster with problems with his mill hasn't asked for a refund. If he did, and he sent it back, he'd get a full refund. I stand behind my mill, and my customer service record.

Thanks,

~~fred francis
Monster Brewing Hardware

I noticed he hasn't replied yet.

I'm ordering one today

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Don't worry about BrewBeemer. If he bought a Lamborghini he would find flaws with it. Not knocking you BrewBeemer, but you have never talked about a product being good or acceptable. I cannot wait to see some pieces of your brewery as it must be very top shelf.

I have total confidence in all the mill providers. Fred from Monster Mills is extremely dedicated to customer service and has answer several of my questions whenever asked, and quickly.

I think I am going to go with a JSP dual adjustable maltmill just because my local guy has one, and has been running it everyday for around 15 years and it still produces a perfect crush like it was brand new. Plus it is HUGE 10" rollers. boo yaa.

Every mill will do a great job as is often showed here.

 

[ThreeDogsNE]

Speaking on behalf of the gadget nuts, I am very pleased with my stainless MM-3. I don't get to use it as much as I would like. Mine adjusted readily, and gives a great crush. I also just like owning it--it's a great gadget! Kind of like owning a good rifle. I don't use it as often as I would like as well, but when I get to use it, it drives tacks, and I enjoy it.

Hobbies don't need to make economic sense, after all. Take your pleasure where you find it (legally).

 

[BADS197]

thanks for the replies.

Yea I'd like to see pictures of his setup too. I've seen a few threads where he complained about something, when doing searches on hardware.

I ordered the basic 2 roller model and once it comes in, will run to home depot and decide what to fashion for a feed and mount for it.

I don't think mounting it to a lid will be sufficient like everyone says.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Don't worry about BrewBeemer. If he bought a Lamborghini he would find flaws with it. Not knocking you BrewBeemer, but you have never talked about a product being good or acceptable. I cannot wait to see some pieces of your brewery as it must be very top shelf.

I have total confidence in all the mill providers. Fred from Monster Mills is extremely dedicated to customer service and has answer several of my questions whenever asked, and quickly.

I think I am going to go with a JSP dual adjustable maltmill just because my local guy has one, and has been running it everyday for around 15 years and it still produces a perfect crush like it was brand new. Plus it is HUGE 10" rollers. boo yaa.

Every mill will do a great job as is often showed here.

Kabouter; at the moment you got me at a bad short end of me I do not want to be that way be it on HBT or the many other forums I belong to besides I respect you too much, that clear fellow brewer? (cool I hope?). Me being an 'ex autocross driver for dad thru my dad's 75 RSR Porsche in the 70's with a factory racing mechanic also close family friend as support plus dad P51 and P38 lead mechanic with a machine shop me a A&P dad and i've been around a few turns in the air the tacks and cars in our life. And yes I have driven a couple Lambo's over the years old and new and I do not like new vs porsches.
I'll take an old 512 BB Ferrari anyday on the open road for a wide ego toad vs any new Lambo unless it's pre 72. JMO's after driving them all and not on the street either with a few beyond their limits on the track AKA facing traffic oops we all have done it if not your a damn lying driver.
Yes I still like the design of the MM3-2.0, the best out there this is why I went ahead and spent the extra $100 more vs a $150 mill. A 100% gear drive would be nice with sealed ball bearings but cost would kill production, JMO's again. It's that mine is a mess scared up from the "TESTING" and called "Passed as OK" (?) by Fred or his helpers, no way could it of been tested in the condition it was in. This repeating my reply from above. Fred do you still have all those photos of the bushings with their different measurements I took with my dial Caliper, marked down on the endplates next to each bushing with the black sharpie plus the scared up endplates? I still do, did you ever post those digital photos on this forum as proof that I am not blowing smoke out of my AZZ or up yours? Post them please.
After receiving this mill and how it was not correct I pulled the end plates off, removed the rubber bands and found all the scar damage into the end plates from the sharp edge after you broke the end edges of the rollers ends. These sharp edges with the twisted up out of parallel end plates caused this scaring into the aluminum end plates. Anyone can see this, hell pissed off the wife as she paid for this anniversary gift to me after seeing my disbelief. Having the bushings stick out at different levels above the end plates facing the rollers inward, example 1st plate bushings .007", .015" (1/2"drive bushing at .015"), eccentric in stainless is below the end plate by .014" the bushing in same stainless eccentric .003 above the stainless eccentric or .011" below the end plate surface.

The other side plate all .373" bushing ID's, bushings inward by .010", .018", stainless eccentric .008" plus the bushing above the stainless eccentric an additional .086" or a total .094" into the rollers from the end plate.
those pictures right away. So far the box is in a corner as I had a second spinal surgery so this mill was last on my mind pain overpowered my feelings on what I had purchased. It can be saved hence why I still like it over any other brand including the Crankenstein or stien (sp) Mill. Without repeating my first reply too much I will rework it to function vs a dust collector it's at the moment in the box on the breakfast room floor from day one of delivery. I will save it and work with what I got when I mend again. Two options.
First; press the bushings flush and run 0.008" X 1 3/4" nylon washers of .375" ID with 0.002" end clearance with aluminum top and bottom stock of 3/8" to maintain parallel end plates and the solid 0.002" end clearances, this clearance also being tight to delay flour, dust and dirt from entering the bushings.
The spindle shafts also need polishing as they are too hard on the oillite bushing why increase uneccessary wear on them as the 1/2" drive is like a record but finer grooves? I like shiney spindles.

One suggestion Fred, the radius on the thumb screws do not match the radius pocket in the stainless adjusters as well they are not centered causing the stainless eccentrics to follow the off center radius on the ends of the thumb screws. This looks like a quick radius on a 1" belt sander not in a lathe of collet. This makes the stainless eccentics pull away until below the end plates then the roller will rub on the aluminum end plates or depending when they tighten up they can pull the eccentrics in deeper. Steel on smooth stainless slips. I found that a short slug of copper 1/4" long that just fits thru the threaded hole "bites better into the stainless eccentric" being soft plus made to the matching radius of the eccentrics radius ring. Works for me in my testing on the first day of delivery of this mill. Still a dust collector nothing done to it since that delivered day, the mill keeps the computer company.
Done with my venting and getting my point across. Case closed i'll still keep this mill and do a little work when i'm able in the future. Fly at home without airport security time. Cheers.

 

[wilserbrewer]

THREAD SUMMARY

Supplier, Fred at Monster Mills offered full refund for mill in question as per company policy in regards to customer satisfaction.

Brewbeemer has declined refund and is therefore satisfied.

Wilserbrewer "Jerseyjudge"

 

[BADS197]

Brewbeemer, it appears to me that you just like to tinker with things?

If I received something in as bad a shape as you claim, it would have been returned immediately for a replacement or refund.

Why spend all that time/effort on something your obviously not pleased with? Seems like a waste of energy bitching about it only to keep it.

???

 

[BrewBeemer]

Brewbeemer, it appears to me that you just like to tinker with things?

If I received something in as bad a shape as you claim, it would have been returned immediately for a replacement or refund.

Why spend all that time/effort on something your obviously not pleased with? Seems like a waste of energy bitching about it only to keep it.

???

"Tinker" yes when an improvement is needed especially with what I have to work with.
"Bitching" like you stated is your words don't put them in my mouth got it. NO just the F**King facts what I ended up with a "Inspected and Tested Each One Before Delivery" product. I went thru Fred with many emails first.
Return, hell no as this is the best designed unit out there, a lemon yes I got the ribbon on that one. Exchange no I might end up with something worse dealing with manufactures products in the past as this is a mill that can be saved, i'll deal with the scared end plates, lap them down on a sheet of glass with wet 600 sandpaper. Reinstall bushings hell Aced Hardware has them just cut to the length on the lathe. I will install them flush with the side plates. As posted above adding .008" nylon at the ends keeping the rollers away from the end plates with the added milled plates to maintain solid tight end frame clearances as posted above. The other plan was to use stepped flange oillite bushings, counterbore the end plates for .006" stick out of the flanged bushing. I rather run with 1 3/4" diameter nylon shims to make a wide area for grain and flour harder to pass by before entering the bushings. Sealed ball bearings would be the best but then more labor besides the stainless adjuster is too small in diameter for a ball bearings OD.

I am not "BITCHING" GOT IT, just stating what I have in a finished and delivered product, I just brought this up to the attention of the members as what I have gone thru besides Fred was sent many photos of my findings within a day of delivery.
Funny those pictures I sent Fred were never posted on this forum, why not I ask?
I'll deal with what I was delivered and moving on doing what is needed to correct and make a funtional mill, not "BITCHING". This thread is closed as far as i'm concerned sorry I even mentioned what was delivered to me as a heads up to helping other HBT members ,you will have to figure it out yourself. Closed.

 

[Simphoto02]

I am worn out just trying to follow his rants. This guy really has issues. Fred, I have never meet you and I am just getting into ag brewing, but I will have you know I am going to buy your products. Beemer, try decaf.

Kabouter; at the moment you got me at a bad short end of me I do not want to be that way be it on HBT or the many other forums I belong to besides I respect you too much, that clear fellow brewer? (cool I hope?). Me being an 'ex autocross driver for dad thru my dad's 75 RSR Porsche in the 70's with a factory racing mechanic also close family friend as support plus dad P51 and P38 lead mechanic with a machine shop me a A&P dad and i've been around a few turns in the air the tacks and cars in our life. And yes I have driven a couple Lambo's over the years old and new and I do not like new vs porsches.
I'll take an old 512 BB Ferrari anyday on the open road for a wide ego toad vs any new Lambo unless it's pre 72. JMO's after driving them all and not on the street either with a few beyond their limits on the track AKA facing traffic oops we all have done it if not your a damn lying driver.
Yes I still like the design of the MM3-2.0, the best out there this is why I went ahead and spent the extra $100 more vs a $150 mill. A 100% gear drive would be nice with sealed ball bearings but cost would kill production, JMO's again. It's that mine is a mess scared up from the "TESTING" and called "Passed as OK" (?) by Fred or his helpers, no way could it of been tested in the condition it was in. This repeating my reply from above. Fred do you still have all those photos of the bushings with their different measurements I took with my dial Caliper, marked down on the endplates next to each bushing with the black sharpie plus the scared up endplates? I still do, did you ever post those digital photos on this forum as proof that I am not blowing smoke out of my AZZ or up yours? Post them please.
After receiving this mill and how it was not correct I pulled the end plates off, removed the rubber bands and found all the scar damage into the end plates from the sharp edge after you broke the end edges of the rollers ends. These sharp edges with the twisted up out of parallel end plates caused this scaring into the aluminum end plates. Anyone can see this, hell pissed off the wife as she paid for this anniversary gift to me after seeing my disbelief. Having the bushings stick out at different levels above the end plates facing the rollers inward, example 1st plate bushings .007", .015" (1/2"drive bushing at .015"), eccentric in stainless is below the end plate by .014" the bushing in same stainless eccentric .003 above the stainless eccentric or .011" below the end plate surface.

The other side plate all .373" bushing ID's, bushings inward by .010", .018", stainless eccentric .008" plus the bushing above the stainless eccentric an additional .086" or a total .094" into the rollers from the end plate.
those pictures right away. So far the box is in a corner as I had a second spinal surgery so this mill was last on my mind pain overpowered my feelings on what I had purchased. It can be saved hence why I still like it over any other brand including the Crankenstein or stien (sp) Mill. Without repeating my first reply too much I will rework it to function vs a dust collector it's at the moment in the box on the breakfast room floor from day one of delivery. I will save it and work with what I got when I mend again. Two options.
First; press the bushings flush and run 0.008" X 1 3/4" nylon washers of .375" ID with 0.002" end clearance with aluminum top and bottom stock of 3/8" to maintain parallel end plates and the solid 0.002" end clearances, this clearance also being tight to delay flour, dust and dirt from entering the bushings.
The spindle shafts also need polishing as they are too hard on the oillite bushing why increase uneccessary wear on them as the 1/2" drive is like a record but finer grooves? I like shiney spindles.

One suggestion Fred, the radius on the thumb screws do not match the radius pocket in the stainless adjusters as well they are not centered causing the stainless eccentrics to follow the off center radius on the ends of the thumb screws. This looks like a quick radius on a 1" belt sander not in a lathe of collet. This makes the stainless eccentics pull away until below the end plates then the roller will rub on the aluminum end plates or depending when they tighten up they can pull the eccentrics in deeper. Steel on smooth stainless slips. I found that a short slug of copper 1/4" long that just fits thru the threaded hole "bites better into the stainless eccentric" being soft plus made to the matching radius of the eccentrics radius ring. Works for me in my testing on the first day of delivery of this mill. Still a dust collector nothing done to it since that delivered day, the mill keeps the computer company.
Done with my venting and getting my point across. Case closed i'll still keep this mill and do a little work when i'm able in the future. Fly at home without airport security time. Cheers.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Oh be nice guys. BrewBeemer often has very helpful things to say and was trying to offer help. I in no way meant any insult. He just reported what he received and that is fair.

I will admit most people would have returned it for a new mill, but BrewBeemer has a full shop at his disposal and is a very skilled craftsman. That was the route he choose and as he said, he still believes the Monster Mill is the best design and would have bought it again.

No point to get down on BrewBeemer or Fred. Both contribute to the boards positively and are nice guys.

 

[wilserbrewer]

THREAD SUMMARY

Supplier, Fred at Monster Mills offered full refund for mill in question as per company policy in regards to customer satisfaction.

Brewbeemer has declined refund and is therefore satisfied.

Wilserbrewer "Jerseyjudge"

I tried to end it gracefully. Brewbeemer had issues, and Fred offerred to refund, not much more to it in my view.

 

[BrewBeemer]

I tried to end it gracefully. Brewbeemer had issues, and Fred offerred to refund, not much more to it in my view.

Well said wilserbrewer, case closed as I said it's a hell of a machine hence why I will keep it, just needs a "tuneup" time and love of labor making something to it's best is a passion of mine this isn't a challange. If I didn't have a machine shop (lathe w/ 3 & 4 jaw chucks, faceplates) Bridgeport Mill floor drill presses Tig and Mig Plasma as my home hobby equipment plus a machine shop background licensed A&P mechanic I would of been screwed or did a return to Fred. Since i'm not a person of zero mechanical skills or living just out of the rain conditions this would of became a problem.
I did not want to bring this up to a out of control pissing war as Fred does have a great product as I said, i'm "satisfed" and keeping it.
Case closed forget everything I replied about from my first reply.
Cheers all sorry I ruffled feathers with an my MM3-2.0 experience, it was not a French Marble Clock Movement in quality being a personal hobby and collector.
Enjoy have a homebrew as they say.

 

[BrewBeemer]

Oh be nice guys. BrewBeemer often has very helpful things to say and was trying to offer help. I in no way meant any insult. He just reported what he received and that is fair.

I will admit most people would have returned it for a new mill, but BrewBeemer has a full shop at his disposal and is a very skilled craftsman. That was the route he choose and as he said, he still believes the Monster Mill is the best design and would have bought it again.

No point to get down on BrewBeemer or Fred. Both contribute to the boards positively and are nice guys.

Kabouter; sorry I missed your reply as I just added one a few seconds ago, thanks for your reply. I did not take it as an insult i'm too thick skinned and stubborn to get thru me besides I have the highest respect for you as another HBT member. This is not AZZ kissing just my respect towards you and others. Yes I may (do) come off as too agressive or abrasive in reples at times that's just me with no intentions to belittle others as we are all equal.
Thanks bro. Carl.