So...I did the BrewPi install, but I forgot to write down the IP address where to find the interface. I'm sure if I looked through all 500 pages of this, I'd find it, but can anyone tell me how to find it without doing that?
the packaging and the listing gave me black (g) red (5v) yellow (data)
which made sense to me but I went ahead and tried different wiring combos, gave the arduino its own power supply, tested my resistors. now ive gone and done the same thing with a little program loaded on the arduino called one wire address finder; it cant find any. So now I'm down to either all of my probes are bad or my arduino is bad.
is there a way to test my probes and or my onewire bus with a meter?
So...I did the BrewPi install, but I forgot to write down the IP address where to find the interface. I'm sure if I looked through all 500 pages of this, I'd find it, but can anyone tell me how to find it without doing that?
So...I did the BrewPi install, but I forgot to write down the IP address where to find the interface. I'm sure if I looked through all 500 pages of this, I'd find it, but can anyone tell me how to find it without doing that?
It's been a long time, but I posted to this forum over a year ago how to figure out your wiring. I don't entirely recall the resistance values i got when I did it. but the gist goes like this. take your multimeter and set it to measure resistance. try different pairs with the multimeter until you read a resistance value (i think it was like .68 or .86 or something when I did it). once you have a reading look at what color you have attached to the ground lead on your mm. you just figured out which one is ground! now it's a 50/50 chance as to which wire is 5v and which one is data. so you can just use trial and error.
Hi Guys,
BrewPi founder here.
I have just updated the legacy branch of the script with everything that is backwards compatible and pushed this to the legacy_dev branch. (legacy branch unchanged for now).
I have tested with a Leonardo and I can program it from the web interface, and even running the updater, or updateFirmware.py.
I also tested with a Leonoardo running Blink, this works on my test system too.
Before I merge legacy_dev into legacy, can you guys give it a test?
You should be able to run the updater.py script with --ask to check it out.
Hopefully it will fix some of the issues that people have with flashing their Arduino.
Note: I updated these scripts to reduce the number of Arduino users asking for support.
For new users, I still do not recommend picking Arduino. No firmware updates will come out for it. And the control algorithms in the firmware are 364 commits behind on our latest release.
just tried this from the legacy dev branch - worked fine for me. Thanks again for your work elkoe [...]
once I switched over to mega ohms I was able to get 0.9 between the ground and the other 2. But I had found another way to sort of check the probes. On the DS18B20 schematics there is a diode between the ground and data, and the ground and 5v. A normally functioning diode will read between 0.45v and 0.9v drop across the diode; mine gave me 0.55Vdrop. This test is nice since it is unidirectional. So between the 2 tests I know for sure that one of the probes is dead and that at least the ground was labeled properly.
I did a continuity test on the arduino board for the analog pins and although that seems to check out, I did notice at the time that the ATmega chip wasnt fully seated in the ic holder, I fulled seated it, reloaded my little onewire address checker and still nothing (and yes I tried multiple wiring configurations).
With some searching I did find a developer mention having seen the analog controller die on the physical ATmega chip without it causing other problems. So he suggested loading a little program for checking out the built in temp probe on the ATmega since its supposed to be on the same bus as the analog pins.
sadly this actually returns a value which would mean the analog bus should be fine.
at this point i wish i had an oscilloscope to test the 1wire communication just to see if its even trying.
well now I'm really confused but I think the easiest answer is going to be get a replacement arduino and grab some bare DS18B20 so I can wire them myself.
You are using a 4.7k resistor right? I haven't actually seen you mention the resistor in all this
fwiw, if you are using an RPi as a BrewPi host you can find plenty of python scripts to read ds18b20 probes.
Cheers!
Not sure what "Build" your talking about? The Raspberry Pi and the Arduino, only need 4 Female to Male and 3 Male to Male, "Dupont" Breadboard jumper wires. I bought a bunch M-M, F-M, F-F, so I could play around with other projects. There cheap. The electrical outlet is also just direct wired onto the screw terminals.
Only soldering I do, is for the Flex-Watt heating strips, and it is easy to do. Just go to youtube and check out some Vids or I do think some of the sellers of the Ferm-Wrap (different brand) have there own videos on how to solder these heat strips.
Shoot thank you that helps a lot I guess I misread about having to solder connections after looking at pictures of the parts closely I can see that there's connectors on there for the jumper cables already. I will run to RadioShack for the jumper wires and it looks like that will make my life much much easier. Parts are in the mail and I'm excited to build this thanks for the quick reply.
Method to make password protected external BrewPi Page
Disclaimer, this opens your BrewPi up to the outside world. While this is cool, I take no responsibility for the security of your system. We are doing our best to ensure that the htaccess settings below are fool proof but there may be other methods of malicious people screwing with your BrewPi by putting it out on the internet. If you aren't ok with this risk please do not make your BrewPi public
- Putty/SSH into your BrewPi system(or keyboard if its hooked up to a monitor).
- Run the following commands to enable htaccess
cd /etc/apache2/sites-available
sudo nano default- look for <directory /var/www/> ... </directory>
change allowOverride to All and save the file.- Now its time to restart apache:
cd /usr/sbin
sudo apache2ctl -k graceful
- Go to /var/www directory
- Create a file using vi editor called .htaccess and inside of it put the following, modify the first line where it is bold and replace it with what you plan to call your Private PHP file.
- Edit the last allow line that says Allow from 192.168. to match up with whatever your local LAN IP address scheme is. You dont need wildcards or subnet masks or anything else.
- Create a directory called private(to store the above .htpasswd file), and go into it.
- Type htpasswd -c .htpasswd <UserName>, it will pop up asking you for a password, and make you repeat it.
- Your done! If you try going to Http://brewpi/index.php it will now as you for a password and it wont let you in unless you enter in the right one from above. A side effect of this seems to be you cant just go to http://brewpi anymore as it will say you dont have authorization and not forward you to the proper page, not a big deal though. Also make sure obviously that if you want to access this from the external world that your RPI is port forwarding properly through your router.
I've been working on getting the external access to work but I always get an error message. Externally I get "This site can't be reached" and internally I am able to enter the username and password once and then get a 404 error message.
I've gone through the directions several time and think I've followed everything.
ifconfig in terminal will show you your IP
Can I run this program locally from a laptop without having to be connected to internet? I want to do a demonstration and show people at our brew club (doing fermentation controllers this month), but not sure I have wifi access where we have out meetings.
Can I run this program locally from a laptop without having to be connected to internet? I want to do a demonstration and show people at our brew club (doing fermentation controllers this month), but not sure I have wifi access where we have out meetings.
Get a switch or crossover cable bd use the Ethernet port to ssh in
Can I run this program locally from a laptop without having to be connected to internet? I want to do a demonstration and show people at our brew club (doing fermentation controllers this month), but not sure I have wifi access where we have out meetings.
Get a switch or crossover cable bd use the Ethernet port to ssh in
If I hook the crossover cable to my ethernet port, where does the other end go?
In your other Ethernet port…
Your question was in regards to running ifconfig on the rpi, supposedly from your laptop. without Internet access this is your only option. if you were referencing bpi itself then yes you can run it on anything but you need network access to see it from another device.
Has no-one tried the legacy_dev branch yet?
It will make flashing from the web interface and even from the install script work again. But I need verification that there a no other bugs before merging it into legacy.
Can I run this program locally from a laptop without having to be connected to internet? I want to do a demonstration and show people at our brew club (doing fermentation controllers this month), but not sure I have wifi access where we have out meetings.
CadiBrewer,how are the pcb working? Any issues with the display scrambling?I'm waiting for my order from Dirt Cheap boards to get here.I have a BrewPi running my fermentation chamber and love it. I now want to upgrade the controller on my keezer. For those of you who use a BrewPi to control a keezer or other serving vessel, how do you utilize the BrewPi? Do you just use one probe in the air in the keezer and use the fridge constant profile? Do you need a second probe to make BrewPi work correctly? If so, how do you implement the beer probe? Is it just taped to the side of one of your kegs? What say you all?
I don't see why you couldn't just run it directly on a laptop that's running Linux and not use the pi for your demonstration. I installed brewpi on my xubuntu box prior to completing the brewpi build and it ran just fine.
CadiBrewer,how are the pcb working? Any issues with the display scrambling?I'm waiting for my order from Dirt Cheap boards to get here.
What relays are you using to control the cold and hot?Unfortunately,I had the screen scramble after running perfectly for two weeks. I need to check my enclosure because I threw it together quickly and there's some exposed connections in there, so potentially that's a cause. I'm also going to reflow solder in a couple of spots when this batch finishes fermenting and I can open the box up.
Worse case scenario, there's a hex out there from another member that refreshes the screen every minute. That seems to be an easy solution.
What relays are you using to control the cold and hot?
I want to use the LCD screen as well.I thought the screen scramble was caused by EMI from the Sainsmart relays and you can eliminate it by replacing them with a ssrI'm using the Sainsmart relay card from the original post. The BrewPi runs flawlessly and the web interface is all you need, but darn it if it isn't cool to have the LCD screen on the box. My ten year old discovered the scramble. He told me that the screen changed to Chinese.
I had the same problem with a 16x4 LCD display when the Arduino was also controlling a SainSmart opto-isolated relay board. Everything worked fine with the relay contacts unconnected. But when the relay switched an inductive load (a 24 VAC power relay), the display garbled. No amount of power isolation and filter capacitors helped.
What solved the problem was a snubber (capacitor and resistor in series) across the SainSmart relay contacts. I used a prepackaged Cornell Dubilier EMI/RFI filter for neatness, but a garden-variety 0.1 ufd capacitor in series with a 47-ohm resistor would probably work just as well.
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