What are you working on?Yeah, I'm sure it works great for the right task but that desoldering gun is like two orders of magnitude too big to be useful in my world. I'm dealing with 0201 passives and the tiniest actives we can lay hands on because there ain't much room on an M.2 card
That's mine in the back of the chaos that is my desk...
View attachment 619874
Cheers!
) and a couple of meh ones. There's nothing like initiation by fire to bring out unconsidered behavior as well as sloppy coding 
And may be good for you, too! I have to say this particular effort has actually sharpened my aging brain.
hey im on to installing the on/off/auto switch, turns out i only had 5 amp switches so im waiting on 10amp ones. but in the meantime id like to ask. I understand the left side pins of your schematic from years ago. But being im using cadi's shield, are the right side pins still correct? B-NO to the UNO D5/D6 pins through the shield and B-NC to UNO GRD? And im stumped on the B-C pin to the LED pull ups.Bingo. Stupid engineer documentation trick
The grounds versus control signals were swapped at their respective switch inputs. Here's the corrected drawing...
Cheers!
View attachment 258926
and i hate you even more seeing this....thats awesome, i have to physically hook up my ro system to fill myI'm calling it "RO Buddy" for now, and it's for managing my reverse osmosis system. I can program it to fill my brew kettles with the prescribed volume starting whenever I want (within a week), and I can also program it to run the RO system to dump any specific volume (on a 1 to 7 day period) to keep the membrane from fouling from lack of use.
I use an inexpensive ds3231 rtc module to offload time-keeping from the Arduino to preserve tick-count fidelity, and so far it'll still run on an Uno as well as a Mega2560. That pic has one of both, the Mega using an I2C display and the UNO a 4-bit parallel. It has a dual relay module to activate solenoids to either supply brewing liquor or dump RO product (for the membrane maintenance function). It'll sound an obnoxious alarm if water is flowing when it shouldn't or meters aren't spinning when they should, and if either is ignored long enough it'll scram the solenoids and keep making noise.
I'm planning on adding effluent metering so I can calculate efficiency and then adding a ds18b20 on the feed-water side as temperature is important wrt membrane performance. I expect at that point to have run out of ram on the UNO and will truncate further development on that platform, never mind if I follow through on coming up with a TDS function on the in and out water...
View attachment 619912
I've had the proto running for a few weeks and it has found two cool bugs (one was a lulu
View attachment 619918
This system currently runs at a reliable 50 gpd but I'll be upgrading to 100 gpd (basically a membrane change, higher capacity pump and higher flow capillary restrictor).
Anyway...this is what happens to a techno-dweeb on the cusp of retirement with lots of toys and spare parts to play with
Cheers!
hey im on to installing the on/off/auto switch, turns out i only had 5 amp switches so im waiting on 10amp ones. but in the meantime id like to ask. I understand the left side pins of your schematic from years ago. But being im using cadi's shield, are the right side pins still correct? B-NO to the UNO D5/D6 pins through the shield and B-NC to UNO GRD? And im stumped on the B-C pin to the LED pull ups.
Also is the process to setup the HC-05 the same as the original post? i got this usb dongle i thought i read somewhere on here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072K3Z3TL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Im going to go back through this whole thread a again to see if i can answer my questions, but any help is much appreciated.
Are you sure? i have it wired via this diagram. I thought is was the LED pin because when cool is on the red light lights up not the blue and they are plugged into the correct pins. im gonna take it apart this evening and troubleshoot.
I'm never sure what people wire together.
I am however sure that the v1.2 of the shield has a pull up wired to VCC to power the LEDs. The only thing that's going to cause them to light up is a shunt to ground. That's either through the relay to pin 5 or 6, or you have the switches wired incorrectly.
The significant differences between 0.2.10 and 0.2.11 was moving to PlatformIO (which compiles with updated libraries so who knows what changed - hopefully all good changes) and adding the reset LCD on timer function (a few other small things.)
It does:
elif messageType == "resetController":
logMessage("Resetting controller to factory defaults.")
bg_ser.write("E")It's certainly not supposed to happen like that. But, you've recreated the issue with two versions of the firmware - one very well matured and one compiled with a different set of libraries and minor changes. I'd be leaning towards a hardware/environmental issue of some sort. "Just moving" and having the screen blank like that sounds a lot like the Arduino lost power, so there's a loose connection somewhere I'm guessing. When the serial port is re-opened (like if the dongle resets) the Arduino will reset as well so the connection could just be that power supply.
