How should I brew these ingredients?

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StinkyVp

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I can explain how I got to this point but the bottom line is I have the following ingredients and am wondering the best way to brew them.
I have brewed 4 batches and bottled 2 so I'm a noob. A little grain steeping is about as complicated as I have done so far. I ordered some ingredients and ended up with the following (not exactly what I ordered but want to make the best of it). I'm just looking for a simple lawnmower beer.

5 gal batch
Briess Pilsen (Extra) Light Dry Extract - 3 lbs, 0 oz
Briess Flaked Rice - 1 lbs, 0 oz
Briess 2-Row Brewer's Malt - 1 lbs, 0 oz
Crystal Pellets - 1 oz @ 35 mins
SAFALE US-05 American Ale - 1 ea

From what I can find it looks like I need to steep the 2-row and rice for 1hr in ~1gallon of water then pour a ~half gallon of 170 degree water over them in a strainer. Then add my DME and boil for an hour adding my hops about half way. Ferment as normal (my temp is ~72). I've never done anything but steep but it all sounds fun. I guess the rice is throwing me off.

I realize I'm off on some of this (maybe most or all :confused:). I'm willing to buy more stuff if needed but don't want to waste anything. I have two other kits to brew so I"m not in a rush.
Thanks in advance.
 
Any reason for your higher ferment temps? You are now mashing base grains.Pretty much the same as steeping except longer.I would keep the mash temp around 150 or a little lower. sounds like your going for a light dry ale. Are you getting esters from fermenting at 72 on your last ones?Even though you are just mashing base grain you should get a an idea to see what an all grain beer can potentionlly taste like.I would throw in a small amount of crystal malt or specialty grain for some flavor but thats just me,it should be a real good summer beer, never used rice though . Dry hopping with cascades or something wouldnt be a bad idea if you felt like it.
 
It's just the temp in my basement where I hope to continue to ferment. It's not the garage but a room behind it and no temp control. I bought some tubs today to try and control the temp a little. I'm going to try the water with frozen plastic bottles trick and shoot for at least 70 if not below. The ambeint temp there is only 78 right now. I may have to rethink this as my fermentation room. I have a less desirable room to use down there but it does have a AC duct so I may swap if I can't control the temp better.
My only batch that is actually 6 total weeks old does have some esters (I think) it's a tad fruity or wheaty for me but has a ton of carb and is actually pretty good (only 12 left).
Thanks.
 
Yeah the first week of fermenting is critical. If your swinging 80- 65 deg its not a good thing.You want it under 70 in most ales,depending on recipe.i dont like those winey esters and have made better beers with o5 and notty under 70 deg.You dont want it swinging 10 degrees either, a constant temp is best for the yeast at least during its fermentation stage.
 
Is there a better way to determine the temp? I have those stick on strips but when they stay wet (in the tub) you can't read it. I think I'll lower the water and put the strip near the top of the beer.
Thanks for the help. - This is the first time I've had to post a question. Most EVERYTHING is totally covered on this forum. It's awesome.
 
If you feel like it you can purchase cheaply a use fridge or small one then buy one of those temp regulalators,it may be a good investment if you plan on brewing often and have a hard time with temps.
 
Look at chest freezers. The small ones cost less than $200 new and would handle 1 carboy. If you step up into the $300 range you could fit 2-3 carboys. These aren't a huge price hike from a craigslist fridge and will pay for themselves in 2-3 years in less electricity use.
 
I was looking at your recipe- if you're making 5 gallons, you're lookiing at a very very light beer- about 1.035 or less or 3-3% ABV. Depending on the AAUs of the hops, you may have only about 6-8 IBUs.

I'd consider making a smaller batch, if that's too light even for a lawnmower beer, but it might be exactly what you want. I would boil the hops for the full 60 minutes, though, just to get more bitterness out of them.
 
Great info guys. Thanks.

So what would I need to add to or increase to make 5 gallons of ~4 ABV ? Or if I use it like it is (just to get rid of it and not waste it) would I make 4 gallons or 3 maybe?
 
I found some info in one of Yoopers other posts I think I will follow:

Yes- you'll add the crushed two-row and the flaked rice to the same bag with the other grains. But we'll have you steep for 45-60 minutes in 1.25 quarts per pound of grain. Then pour 170 degree water over that grain bag (it's easiest if you lift out the grain bag and put it in a colander/strainer over the brewpot) to get to your boil volume. That's it! It's super easy.
 
I found some info in one of Yoopers other posts I think I will follow:

Yeah, that'll work!

The recipe you have now will give you 1.034-1.038ish OG (depending on the results of the rice/two-row mash). That should ferment to 1.010 more or less. That would give you right around 3.25% ABV or so if that happens. That may be fine for a lawnmower beer. But yes, you could make 4 gallons of the same recipe and have a 4% beer.

I'd also consider using the pellets at 60 minutes with either sized batch- depending on the AAUs % of the hops, you may have a not balanced beer.

I'd also add the extract at the end of the boil, with 5 minutes or so to go. That will keep the color and flavor lighter, like a lawnmower beer should be.

You could do the mash as described above, then remove the grains and bring up the volume to your boil volume by adding water if needed. Bring that to a boil, and set your timer for 60 minutes and add the hops. With 5 minutes left in the boil, take the pot off the heat and add the extract. Stir well, to dissolve it (use a whisk- it helps!) and then place it back on the burner and boil for 5 minutes longer. Then chill the wort quickly, add to your fermenter and top up to 4 gallons (or 5 if you want the lower ABV version). Try to keep the fermenter under 70 degrees, by putting it in a water bath if necessary, with frozen water bottles cycled in and out, to get a really nice lawnmower beer. Pitch the yeast when the wort is under 70 degrees!
 
Thanks Yooper. That is pretty much what I was asking for in my first post. I needed some step by step instructions. I feel more comfortable now with what I have. I'm going the 4 gal route and follow your steps. Is a 1.5 ~ 2 gal boil volume enough for all that DME? It seems like a lot.
I'll report back when it's done.
Thanks again.
 
Thanks Yooper. That is pretty much what I was asking for in my first post. I needed some step by step instructions. I feel more comfortable now with what I have. I'm going the 4 gal route and follow your steps. Is a 1.5 ~ 2 gal boil volume enough for that DME?
I'll report back when it's done.
Thanks again.

I'd start with 2 gallons, more if you can manage it.

Once you mash the grains (using about 3 quarts water for two pounds), then you can pour a gallon over the grains to sparge. Make sure when you mash that you don't have the grains in the bag tight- they should be very loose so that you can really thoroughly wet them. You may want to do this in a smaller pot than your brewpot, so that you can ensure the grains are covered by the water. Since rice takes a bit longer to convert, go with 60 minutes for the mash, or even up to 75 minutes.

Once the time is up, you can either go ahead and pour a gallon of water over them (it's easier if you put the grainbag in a big strainer over your brewpot), or pick them up and dunk them like a tea bag right into a gallon of 170 degree water.

Here's what I'd do- mash the grains in a smaller pot. While that's mashing, heat up a gallon of water in your brewpot. Stir the mash often, keeping it at 150-155 degrees. Once the time is up, take out the grainbag and lift it and put it into the 1 gallon of 170 degree water, stirring very very well. Remove the grains, combine the two runnings and add water to get to your boil volume. Bring to a boil, and go ahead and add the hops and set the timer for 60 minutes. You can add more water during this time if you are boiling off a lot. When you have 5 minutes left, take the pot off of the stove and add the extract as mentioned. That should work well for this beer.
 
It's just the temp in my basement where I hope to continue to ferment. It's not the garage but a room behind it and no temp control. I bought some tubs today to try and control the temp a little. I'm going to try the water with frozen plastic bottles trick and shoot for at least 70 if not below. The ambeint temp there is only 78 right now. I may have to rethink this as my fermentation room. I have a less desirable room to use down there but it does have a AC duct so I may swap if I can't control the temp better.
My only batch that is actually 6 total weeks old does have some esters (I think) it's a tad fruity or wheaty for me but has a ton of carb and is actually pretty good (only 12 left).
Thanks.

I use 1/2 gallon jugs from fruit juice that I drink at breakfast time. I have about 10 of them and keep 4 in the freezer at all times if I'm trying to brew a 5 gallon batch.
 
So Yooper your telling me I don't have to boil the DME for more than 5 minutes? Basically mix it in then cool and pitch?
 
Alot of people just add it add flameout.Anything over 150 will pasterize.Malt extract is a pretty clean product assumed good storing.Technicly 15 min over 150 will pasterize anything, but its just a saftey net and most likly it would pasterize fairly shortly.I dont think many have ever had problems with infections with throwing extract in boiled water.
 
So Yooper your telling me I don't have to boil the DME for more than 5 minutes? Basically mix it in then cool and pitch?

I read once that only a smallish fraction of people know how to read a graph. I'll post this here anyway. Apropos I think.

Beer_Pasteurization_Curve.jpg
 

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