How is my water profile and have I interpreted it correctly?

[Matheos]

Hello guys!
As some of you may know, I am new here and to homebrewing and general. And before you all go telling me that this topic is a bit much at this early stage, I am just exploring it, not necessarily implementing it in my brews at this point. Just trying to get a general idea of how it works and what I could do to make better brews. In the future I want to make a good NEIPA, and IPAs in general, which I have understood would require my water chemistry to to favour sulfate over calcium, which the report of my town's measurements of 2020 states isn't my case.

The report in full is available here (Finnish only, sorry): https://www.turunvesihuolto.fi/sites/default/files/atoms/files/vedenlaatu2020.pdf
As it is finnish. Some words are not the same, though at least the chemical abbreviations should be lol. It does not however directly state carbonate, which is why I have kind of calculated it a bit myself, from the alkalinity which is listed there. The "ka"-column is the average value.
The source of my knowledge is this video:

What I noted from the report are these values:

--Cations---
Sodium (Na): 4,5 mg/L (ppm)
Calcium (Ca): 19 mg/L (ppm)
Magnesium (Mg): 1,5 mg/L (ppm)

--Anions--
Chloride (Cl): 11,5 mg/L (ppm)
Sulfate (SO4): 9,9 mg/L (ppm)
Alkalinity: 0,79 mmol/l
Carbonate: (0,79 mmol/l * 20) * (61/50) = 19,3 mg/L (ppm)

pH: 8,6
Chlorine total: 0,32 mg/L
Chlorine "Free": 0,02 mg/L

The carbonate calculations are the most uncertain thing here. Also I am not sure what the Chlroine Free is. It is a translation from finnish but it should be accurate.
The measurements I jotted down are the averages recorded. I also had the option to go for the median, but I was not sure which was the better option.

Is there any worrying values here, and what do you think of by carbonate calculation? Unsure if the 61/50 factor even is needed?

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

I see your (of importance to brewing) water analysis as being right close to:

Ca++ = 19 mg/L
Mg++ = 1.5 mg/L
Na+ = 4.5 mg/L
Cl- = 11.5 mg/L
SO4-- = 9.9 mg/L
Alkalinity (as CaCO3) = 39.5 mg/L

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

At pH 8.6 about 97.5% of your Alkalinity will be from the Bicarbonate ion (HCO3-), and the rest will be from the Carbonate ion (CO3--).

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Be sure to add 1/4 of a Campden tablet (crushed) to each 20L of your water to get rid of the Chlorine (free and bound).

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Hello guys!

Hello! Just want to note that your water looks quite good for brewing. You are not at the single digits of RO water, but you are not that far off. It is much easier to add salts to build up the mineral levels of water like yours, than it is to deal with high starting levels. For most beer styles, you will need to add salts to hit a target. You mostly likely could get started just use Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) and Calcium Chloride, and live with the levels of Magnesium and Sodium in your base water. (Dealing with Chlorine as noted.)

I am not sure if I have watched that video by The Apartment Brewer. I subscribe to his channel and enjoy some of his content. My only complaint about him is that often has content like "this is my very first time doing this ever and I am going to speak to you like I am an expert on the topic." His knowledge and brewing has improved over the couple years of his channel, but I cringe at some of his general advice (not in reference to this video). I am not sure how good that water chemistry video is, but I don't really have a better intro video to point you toward. I am pretty sure he still uses pH strips on brew day.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

To bring 20L of your water to ~pH 5.6 will require 1.3 mL of 80% Lactic Acid or alternately 1 gram of Anhydrous Citric Acid. This information will be useful primarily for addressing the Alkalinity of your sparge water. I'm not sure as to which acids you may prefer in your location. Or ditto their concentrations.

 

[Matheos]

I see your (of importance to brewing) water analysis as being right close to:

Ca++ = 19 mg/L
Mg++ = 1.5 mg/L
Na+ = 4.5 mg/L
Cl- = 11.5 mg/L
SO4-- = 9.9 mg/L
Alkalinity (as CaCO3) = 39.5 mg/L

Can you explain your sentence and the data? Are these optimal numbers, or have you somehow interpreted mine in some other way than I have myself? For example how did you get 39,6 mg/L Alkalinity from my report? Same with Na isn't the same, nor is Sulfate..?

At pH 8.6 about 97.5% of your Alkalinity will be from the Bicarbonate ion (HCO3-), and the rest will be from the Carbonate ion (CO3--).

Good to know! Though could you provide a source to this? Like based on my pH, how do I estimate bicarbonate percentage of my alkalinity?

Be sure to add 1/4 of a Campden tablet (crushed) to each 20L of your water to get rid of the Chlorine (free and bound).

No clue what a campden tablet is, but I assume I should be able to find it from my brewing shop? Or something that does the same thing

Thanks for the comments. Maybe next time do a multi-quote post though?

 

[Matheos]

Hello! Just want to note that your water looks quite good for brewing. You are not at the single digits of RO water, but you are not that far off. It is much easier to add salts to build up the mineral levels of water like yours, than it is to deal with high starting levels. For most beer styles, you will need to add salts to hit a target. You mostly likely could get started just use Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) and Calcium Chloride, and live with the levels of Magnesium and Sodium in your base water. (Dealing with Chlorine as noted.)

I am not sure if I have watched that video by The Apartment Brewer. I subscribe to his channel and enjoy some of his content. My only complaint about him is that often has content like "this is my very first time doing this ever and I am going to speak to you like I am an expert on the topic." His knowledge and brewing has improved over the couple years of his channel, but I cringe at some of his general advice (not in reference to this video). I am not sure how good that water chemistry video is, but I don't really have a better intro video to point you toward. I am pretty sure he still uses pH strips on brew day.

Thanks for the info!

And yea, I am new to the channel too so I have no experience in neither his channel nor the subject. So I cannot tell if anything is bad or good tips. I feel like I learnt at least what the things I should worry about are, and kind of how to find them out.
Bottom line you suggest this tablet that removes the chlorine + Gypsum + Calcium Chloride to get more diserable water chemistry in general? At what point are these added? I can surely find out myself too, but just nice to ask people on here in the same go

To bring 20L of your water to ~pH 5.6 will require 1.3 mL of 80% Lactic Acid or alternately 1 gram of Anhydrous Citric Acid. This information will be useful primarily for addressing the Alkalinity of your sparge water. I'm not sure as to which acids you may prefer in your location. Or ditto their concentrations.

Hmm okay thanks. Yea as I said, I am perhaps not looking to make this step yet in my brewing career. Though, as it does not seem super advanced after getting the values and know what to put when and how much, I am currently exploring the topic. I will obviously have to check the local internet web store to see what I have available in my case.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

The molecular weight of CaCO3 is 100.0869 milligrams/millimole.
The valence of Ca++ is 2
Thus the Equivalent Weight of CaCO3 is 100.0869/2 = 50.04345 mg/mmole
0.79 mmole/L Alkalinity x 50.04345 mg/mmole = 39.53 mg/L Alkalinity (as CaCO3)

Na, Cl, and SO4 are the same as you reported. We use . here where you use ,

Campden is either sodium or potassium metabisulfite. A tablet weighs roughly 600 mg, so 1/4 of a tablet would be about 150 mg.

 

[Matheos]

The molecular weight of CaCO3 is 100.0869 milligrams/millimole.
The valence of Ca++ is 2
Thus the Equivalent Weight of CaCO3 is 100.0869/2 = 50.04345 mg/mmole
0.79 mmole/L Alkalinity x 50.04345 mg/mmole = 39.53 mg/L Alkalinity (as CaCO3)

Na, Cl, and SO4 are the same as you reported. We use . here where you use ,

Campden is either sodium or potassium metabisulfite.

View attachment 722304

Oh wow. Yea I must have misread your first post. The numbers are the same. Obviously I know of the dot vs comma situation. I must have misread that is all. The only unclear thing was the Alkalinity which you know explained. I don't quite understand why you devide the molecular mass with the valence though, but I am not chemist Have u misspelled some CaCO3? Because now it sounds like the molecular weight of CaCO3 is .... the valence is .... thus the equivalent weight of CaCO3 is ....? I mean it sounds like you say weight is one thing and then it is equal to another weight? Or is molecular weight and weight not the same?

Also this is assuming that all alkalinity is CaCO3, right?

EDIT: I ripped my constant 20 from here: https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/conten...h/General_Information/1/conversion-tables.pdf under Alkalinity on the first page

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Ions derived from the dissociation of molecules (in water) combine via net electrical charge. A proton (H+) has a charge of +1. An electron (e-) has a charge of -1. The Calcium ion has a net charge on this basis of +2. Valence represents the charge. To bring all charges to either + or - 1 requires that (for CaCO3) the molecular weight must be divided by 2 whereby to derive the "equivalent" weight for reaction purposes.

 

[Matheos]

Ions derived from the dissociation of molecules (in water) combine via net electrical charge. A proton (H+) has a charge of +1. An electron (e-) has a charge of -1. The Calcium ion has a net charge on this basis of +2. Valence represents the charge. To bring all charges to either + or - 1 requires that (for CaCO3) the molecular weight must be divided by 2 whereby to derive the "equivalent" weight for reaction purposes.

Yep I have no idea what you mean haha. But it is ok. I will take your word for it.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

One "equivalent weight" of any positively charged ion can react with one "equivalent weight" of any negatively charged ion.

 

[Matheos]

One "equivalent weight" of any positively charged ion can react with one "equivalent weight" of any negatively charged ion.

Ah I might understand what you mean by "equivalent weight" now. It has to do with atoms striving to fill their out electron shells? Or something

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Ah I might understand what you mean by "equivalent weight" now. It has to do with atoms striving to fill their out electron shells? Or something

Yes, outer electron shells. Atoms, but also the ion constituents of molecules. Some atoms or ions are electron donors and carry a negative charge, and some are electron receptors and carry a positive charge. The valence tells you how many electrons can be either donated or accepted.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

Bottom line you suggest this tablet that removes the chlorine + Gypsum + Calcium Chloride to get more diserable water chemistry in general? At what point are these added?

I do full volume mashing BIAB. I fill my kettle with the full amount of water and then add half a Campden tablet (for a 5 gal batch) and any needed salts/acid additions then.

I watched that video. It covers some good topics, though some things I question.

I used to have a page bookmarked with good info on water chemistry, but the site has been down for a while. I found that the section in "How to Brew" was very good on adjusting mineral/ion levels for taste (though I am not sure the pH sections are as good). The page at Bru'n Water is pretty dense: General 5 | Bru'n Water I am not a huge fan of the book, but the water chapter in "Simple Homebrewing" by Beechum/Conn seems quite good. I am not sure what the current thoughts are on the (now 10 year old) sticky post "A Brewing Water Chemistry Primer" (here: A Brewing Water Chemistry Primer)

 

[Smiling Frog]

Interesting discussion.

Matheos, if you are new to homebrewing, my advice is to not worry about water chemistry. With the exception of chlorine (which has been addressed by use of a campden tables, or sodium [or potassium] metabisulphate--they are the same thing), your water is fine for just about any light-colored beer you want to make. You might have lower efficiencies with dark beers, but it won't affect the flavor, just the amount of grain you use.

You are correct that sulfate and chloride levels can affect the flavor of bitter IPAs as well as NEIPAs, but my understanding is that you would want higher sulfate levels in the IPAs and higher chloride levels in the NEIPAs. But, this effect is minor and if you are just starting, I wouldn't worry about it. The levels you have are low enough not to matter and IMHO you will be better served learning to get your beer to be consistent, batch to batch, before you go down the water chemistry hole (and it's a deep hole).

 

[Matheos]

Interesting discussion.

Matheos, if you are new to homebrewing, my advice is to not worry about water chemistry. With the exception of chlorine (which has been addressed by use of a campden tables, or sodium [or potassium] metabisulphate--they are the same thing), your water is fine for just about any light-colored beer you want to make. You might have lower efficiencies with dark beers, but it won't affect the flavor, just the amount of grain you use.

You are correct that sulfate and chloride levels can affect the flavor of bitter IPAs as well as NEIPAs, but my understanding is that you would want higher sulfate levels in the IPAs and higher chloride levels in the NEIPAs. But, this effect is minor and if you are just starting, I wouldn't worry about it. The levels you have are low enough not to matter and IMHO you will be better served learning to get your beer to be consistent, batch to batch, before you go down the water chemistry hole (and it's a deep hole).

Thanks for the response mate. Yes indeed, as you and me both agree, this topic is a bit out of reach given my general brewing experience, for now. Though, the chlorine thing, I could add to my process, as it seems fairly straight forward. I add it before the boil or once it is boiling?

Bottled by second brew yesterday, so we'll see how that turns out. But either way I think I will focus on the other parts of brewing, and leave the water chemistry part for now (at least the implementing it part). I am willing to learn about it though, but I won't bother too much with it yet. Besides perhaps the chlorine

 

[Smiling Frog]

For the chlorine, my understanding is the metabisulphate "unbinds" the bound chlorine and makes it all "free chlorine", which can be driven off pretty easily by heating. That is, adding it to the water before you begin to heat it will free the chlorine and as it is heating, most or all of the chlorine will be driven off as you heat it to strike temperature.

 

[Birrofilo]

Also I am not sure what the Chlroine Free is. It is a translation from finnish but it should be accurate.

In my limited understanding, you can have two different kinds of chlorinated water.

One, which is the good case, is water which is chlorinated with free chlorine.
The other case is that the water is chlorinated with chloramine, or a combination of both chloramine and free chlorine.

In the first case, letting the water overnight without lid will make the chlorine evaporate. Also, heating up the water to bring it to "dough-in" temperature should eliminate the chlorine.

In the second case, you will have to use the chemical weapon to get rid of the chloramine (Campden tablets).

If the water data sheet shows "free chlorine" and doesn't show "total chlorine" (or shows "total chlorine" but it's the same value as in "free chlorine") then you have no chloramine.
If the data sheet shows something like cloro legato (tied chlorine?) or cloro combinato (combined chlorine?) or a total chlorine which is higher than free chlorine, then you have chloramine in your water.

 

[Matheos]

In my limited understanding, you can have two different kinds of chlorinated water.

One, which is the good case, is water which is chlorinated with free chlorine.
The other case is that the water is chlorinated with chloramine, or a combination of both chloramine and free chlorine.

In the first case, letting the water overnight without lid will make the chlorine evaporate. Also, heating up the water to bring it to "dough-in" temperature should eliminate the chlorine.

In the second case, you will have to use the chemical weapon to get rid of the chloramine (Campden tablets).

If the water data sheet shows "free chlorine" and doesn't show "total chlorine" (or shows "total chlorine" but it's the same value as in "free chlorine") then you have no chloramine.
If the data sheet shows something like cloro legato (tied chlorine?) or cloro combinato (combined chlorine?) or a total chlorine which is higher than free chlorine, then you have chloramine in your water.

Hmm so I have chloramine?
Kloori = Chlorine
Kokonais = total
Vapaa = free.
Columns after mg/L: sample size, max, min, average, median.

Bottom line, I should add the "chemical weapon" to my process?

 

[Birrofilo]

Hmm so I have chloramine?
Kloori = Chlorine
Kokonais = total
Vapaa = free.
Columns after mg/L: sample size, max, min, average, median.
View attachment 722323

Bottom line, I should add the "chemical weapon" to my process?

Yes, you appear to have chloramine in your water, and the chemical warfare appears necessary in this case.
You should also calculate the contribution of sulphites, the contribution of potassium (if you use potassium solphites) or the sodium contribution (if you use sodium solphites) but I don't know how to do this.

That could be a nice addition to spreadsheets, the calculation of sulphite, sodium and chlorine addition due to the Campden tablets.

Frankly, in your case I would just use bottled water. I have an antipathy for sulphites. That stuff is naturally present in your beer in little quantity (less than 10 ppm) but adding it I find it not very "kosher". Bottled water is very cheap (13 - 17 €cents / litre), here in Italy at least.

You will also note that the chlorination of your water is quite uneven. It is possible that in summer you have much more chloramine than in winter. You should also consider that all this chloramine is going to get into your guts also when you use your water to make a tea or to cook some pasta. That is a disinfectant and a disinfectant is not something that I call "food".

 

[Vale71]

My Finnish starts at "Hei" and ends at "Ravintola" but water analyses are pretty standard so I think I can get most of it.

Kokonaiskoovus should be total hardness. You have that both in German units and mmol/l. Kalsiumkoovus and Magnesiumkoovus are Calcium hardness and Magnesium hardness respectively.

Alkaliteeti is your alkalinity which is also carbonate hardness expressed in mmol/l. Multiply by 50 to get alkalinity as mg/l CaCO3 or by 61 to get alkalinity as actual mg/l of HCO3.

Free chlorine is just that, dissolved chlorine gas which your water provider might add to kill off bacterial contamination and judging by the measured value range your water supplier might do that at certain times and not at others (might be a seasonal issue). Bound chlorine is all chlorine that is chemically bound, for example as chloramine.

All in all you have excellent soft water. I'm not surprised being that in Finland your drinking water was probably pure, untainted snow not long before it became drinking water.

 

[Birrofilo]

All in all you have excellent soft water. I'm not surprised being that in Finland your drinking water was probably pure, untainted snow not long before it became drinking water.

Snow is not a good source of water, because it lacks salts. Maybe a source of quasi-distilled water. But then, it contains probably unwanted contaminants (acid rains coming for the US, dead insect, deer piss, horse **** etc. ). Water which is filtered by sands, rocks etc. is normally better. But it's not common, not even in Italy, unless you buy*.

Overall though I am surprised that Finnish water employs chloramine. By way of example, Roman water only uses free chloride, and God knows whether there are holes and infiltrations in our aqueducts.

The two products are quite different, because free chloride dissolves by itself easily, while chloramine is not simple to get rid of.

On the "excellent soft water" anybody has opinions. My opinion is that a water requiring chemical treatment to be used for homebrewing is far from "excellent". YMMV.

* As a side note, the Sangemini water rained 20 years before it is captured at the source.

 

[Matheos]

Yes, you appear to have chloramine in your water, and the chemical warfare appears necessary in this case.
You should also calculate the contribution of sulphites, the contribution of potassium (if you use potassium solphites) or the sodium contribution (if you use sodium solphites) but I don't know how to do this.

That could be a nice addition to spreadsheets, the calculation of sulphite, sodium and chlorine addition due to the Campden tablets.

Frankly, in your case I would just use bottled water. I have an antipathy for sulphites. That stuff is naturally present in your beer in little quantity (less than 10 ppm) but adding it I find it not very "kosher". Bottled water is very cheap (13 - 17 €cents / litre), here in Italy at least.

You will also note that the chlorination of your water is quite uneven. It is possible that in summer you have much more chloramine than in winter. You should also consider that all this chloramine is going to get into your guts also when you use your water to make a tea or to cook some pasta. That is a disinfectant and a disinfectant is not something that I call "food".

Bottled water is not expensive no, but a bit of a hassle to buy a lot of. Besides, here we drink the tap water, cook with it and everything. Buying bottled water is very rare in Finland overall. Would just find it weird, not using our own tap water.

Regarding putting it in food and what not, I have never had any issues or anything. Nothing noticeable. I was actually rather surprised by the chloramine level. Not that I had any expectations though...

My Finnish starts at "Hei" and ends at "Ravintola" but water analyses are pretty standard so I think I can get most of it.

Kokonaiskoovus should be total hardness. You have that both in German units and mmol/l. Kalsiumkoovus and Magnesiumkoovus are Calcium hardness and Magnesium hardness respectively.

Alkaliteeti is your alkalinity which is also carbonate hardness expressed in mmol/l. Multiply by 50 to get alkalinity as mg/l CaCO3 or by 61 to get alkalinity as actual mg/l of HCO3.

Free chlorine is just that, dissolved chlorine gas which your water provider might add to kill off bacterial contamination and judging by the measured value range your water supplier might do that at certain times and not at others (might be a seasonal issue). Bound chlorine is all chlorine that is chemically bound, for example as chloramine.

All in all you have excellent soft water. I'm not surprised being that in Finland your drinking water was probably pure, untainted snow not long before it became drinking water.

Correct all across the board As mentioned above, I was quite surprised to learn about the chloramine level. I suppose it is no problem for other usages that are not as picky as beer brewers But I would like to aim to use tap water if possible. Maybe would be worth calculating if the salts and chemicals along with tap water is more or less economical than simply buying bottled water though.

 

[Matheos]

Snow is not a good source of water, because it lacks salts. Maybe a source of quasi-distilled water. But then, it contains probably unwanted contaminants (acid rains coming for the US, dead insect, deer piss, horse **** etc. ). Water which is filtered by sands, rocks etc. is normally better. But it's not common, not even in Italy, unless you buy*.

Overall though I am surprised that Finnish water employs chloramine. By way of example, Roman water only uses free chloride, and God knows whether there are holes and infiltrations in our aqueducts.

The two product are quite different, because free chloride dissolves by itself easily, while chloramine is not simple to get rid of.

On the "excellent soft water" anybody has opinions. My opinion is that a water requiring chemical treatment to be used for homebrewing is far from "excellent". YMMV.

* As a side note, the Sangemini water rained 20 years before it is captured at the source.

The snow comment I am a bit sceptical about haha. Last year, at least this far down in Finland, we had like one day of snow. This year has been much different though.
Nevertheless, Finland is known as the country of a thousand lakes, which is no exaggeration. I am also confident we have a lot of groundwater sources too. I know for a fact we have great water here, which is why I am so surprised by the chloramine. Might be different in different municipalities. I live and study in Turku which is Finland's former capital and one of the largest cities in the country. I bet they have better water on the country, at least from where I am from, in Pohjanmaa, we have really good water.

 

[Birrofilo]

Bottled water is not expensive no, but a bit of a hassle to buy a lot of. Besides, here we drink the tap water, cook with it and everything. Buying bottled water is very rare in Finland overall. Would just find it weird, not using our own tap water.

I understand you and that's what I did when I was a child. But it's now some 20 years that I drink bottled water, although I cook with tap water. That's because of the stink coming from the glass when I drink tap water.

I suppose that free chlorine is more volatile and, therefore, flies to the nose much faster. Chloramine is less volatile (or not at all volatile) so you cannot spot its presence when you cook or drink. Yet, it's there.

 

[Birrofilo]

I am also confident we have a lot of groundwater sources too. I know for a fact we have great water here, which is why I am so surprised by the chloramine. Might be different in different municipalities.

Yes. Chloramine use depends on the state of the tubing, the piping. The more the aqueducts are subject to ingress from substances from the ground, the more it is necessary to disinfect them.

Long and complex aqueducts, collecting water far away from the city, and complex water distribution networks, pave the way for problems - especially in summer - which are so easily solved with chlorine, and chloramine.

This is to say in a few words that your mayor is cheating on your water

 

[Grizwold1]

"Don't know much about chemistry" <end singing voice> but one thing I have learned here is that @Silver_Is_Money does.

 

[Vale71]

As mentioned above, I was quite surprised to learn about the chloramine level. I suppose it is no problem for other usages that are not as picky as beer brewers

You can't really taste chloramines (OK, maybe at insanely high levels you could). If your water actually smells and tastes like chlorine than that is because they are actually adding free chlorine to it. The problem with chloramines and brewing is that if not remove they will combine with phenols to form chlorophenols and you definitely don't want to taste/smell those in your beer. They give off smells reminescent of anything from band-aid to burnt rubber which nobody finds particularly appealing in beer or any other drink/food.

 

[Matheos]

You can't really taste chloramines (OK, maybe at insanely high levels you could). If your water actually smells and tastes like chlorine than that is because they are actually adding free chlorine to it. The problem with chloramines and brewing is that if not remove they will combine with phenols to form chlorophenols and you definitely don't want to taste/smell those in your beer. They give off smells reminescent of anything from band-aid to burnt rubber which nobody finds particularly appealing in beer or any other drink/food.

Hmm ok. Yea our water does not smell at all, so as the report says, it's low on free chlorine. I would like to reduce the bound chlorine though. Currently looking what options I have from the local brew shop. I found this: Vinoferm Campden Sulfite: Kaliumdisulfiitti Vinoferm Campden 100g.

I have a few questions regarding this, how much per litre? This is not tablets, but powder.

Also, I am unable to do full boils, meaning I often top off in the fermenter with cold water. You guys said that the campden should be added before the boil, as it frees the chlorine which then gets "boiled off" (for simplicity). What in the case where there is no boil?

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

I have a few questions regarding this, how much per litre? This is not tablets, but powder.

Also, I am unable to do full boils, meaning I often top off in the fermenter with cold water. You guys said that the campden should be added before the boil, as it frees the chlorine which then gets "boiled off" (for simplicity). What in the case where there is no boil?

6.5 to 7 mg/L should be adequate for most chlorine and/or chloramine treated water.

Campden is added to cold water. Its effect in neutralizing chlorine and chloramines is (for all practical purposes) nigh-on instantaneous upon its being fully dissolved.

 

[Matheos]

6.5 to 7 mg/L should be adequate for most chlorine and/or chloramine treated water.

Such small amounts. May be difficult to measure on my kitchen scale with an accuracy of 1g....

Campden is added to cold water. Its effect in neutralizing chlorine and chloramines is (for all practical purposes) nigh-on instantaneous upon its being fully dissolved.

Sorry, I don't know what this translates to in terms of it being a problem that parts of the water is not boiled? I top off quite a lot.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Sorry, I don't know what this translates to in terms of it being a problem that parts of the water is not boiled? I top off quite a lot.

There is no problem associated with the addition of Potassium Metabisulfite to cold water.

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Such small amounts. May be difficult to measure on my kitchen scale with an accuracy of 1g....

Yes, you will need a scale which can read with precision to 0.01 gram. They have become very inexpensive.

 

[DuncB]

Brewers friend has some tables or data for householding water additions into teaspoons etc.
Off the top of my head I think a Campden tablet has 298 mg of Sodium Metabisulphate and the tablets can be cut up quite well into quarters with a sharp knife.

So 20 litres of water is 140 mg of campden tablets content ( nearly half ) . Your other option is to add a measurable quantity based on a teaspoon or partial teaspoon to a known volume of water and then you have x / ml of sod met and can then add a volume of this liquid to your water. Don't forget to treat your spare water as well if you sparge.

 

[Matheos]

There is no problem associated with the addition of Potassium Metabisulfite to cold water.

But does it add the step of having to wait for the water to release the chlorine? Like having it out over night? As I understood that this process happened quickly while boiling?

Yes, you will need a scale which can read with precision to 0.01 gram. They have become very inexpensive.

I am not sure how to define inexpensive, but I am not even able to find scales with that kind of precision around here. The ones that have 0.1g precisions are in my wallet not cheap even... :/

Brewers friend has some tables or data for householding water additions into teaspoons etc.
Off the top of my head I think a Campden tablet has 298 mg of Sodium Metabisulphate and the tablets can be cut up quite well into quarters with a sharp knife.

So 20 litres of water is 140 mg of campden tablets content ( nearly half ) . Your other option is to add a measurable quantity based on a teaspoon or partial teaspoon to a known volume of water and then you have x / ml of sod met and can then add a volume of this liquid to your water. Don't forget to treat your spare water as well if you sparge.

Yes with current equipment teaspoon measurement of some sort would be my best bet. I do want a more precise scale though, but currently a lot of things are needed for this hobby, where a pot for example has higher priority If anyone has a good scale on amazon for cheap that ships to Finland I would be interested to suggestions. It just seems very difficult finding proper equipment here...

Will check out the brewersfriend chart if I find it.

EDIT: I have found options. Relatively affordable too. will look into those, but a cheap amazon alternative would have to be CHEAP with shipping in order to justify the shipping costs too lol

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

If I'm reading this (see attached document) correctly, AJ deLange recommends 9.2 mg/L of K-Meta (potassium metabisulfite) as sufficient to remove the absolutely worst case concentration levels of chlorine and/or chloramines which are pushing legal limits. So 7 mg/L should suffice for most levels used by regional water authorities.

 

[CascadesBrewer]

EDIT: I have found options. Relatively affordable too. will look into those, but a cheap amazon alternative would have to be CHEAP with shipping in order to justify the shipping costs too lol

I don't know what is available in Finland, but a search for "jeweler's scale" will likely turn up options. I picked one up on Amazon for around $12 US and I use it about every morning to weigh coffee beans in addition to salts and hops on brew day. At least in the US, I see a number of stores listing them for $15 to $30 US (and much more expensive options).

 

[Silver_Is_Money]

Does eBay service your homeland?