How important is it to use keg lube...

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Schlenkerla

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I am rebuilding 3 used cornies. I have the rebuild kits and forgot for the 2nd time to pick up keg lube. :mad:

Do I absolutely need the keg lube?

Is there a substitute so I don't have to head back to the LHBS?

Thanks!

:mug:
 
Is there a substitute so I don't have to head back to the LHBS?

Plain old petroleum jelly.

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Is keg lube necessary? I'd say no.

It's an easy fix to an annoying problem of aged/aging kegs. If your are weary of the PJ (no reason to be) you may be able to find a FDA / NSF approved silicone jelly at your local plumbing supply or hardware store. Lowes has this in a small "puck" Ace Hardware has tubes.
 
Keg lube will make your kegging life much easier.

It has solved virtually all of my o-ring related leaks. Dry gaskets don’t seal nearly as well.

Keg lube will also preserve your o-rings longer.

Use a food grade mineral oil from the grocery store as a substitute. Keg lube is simply a jelly version of mineral oil.
 
Whats the purpose? I once put grease on rubber only to find that it swells like crazy. I assume this helps reduce leaks.
 
Keg lube will make your kegging life much easier.

It has solved virtually all of my o-ring related leaks. Dry gaskets don’t seal nearly as well.

Keg lube will also preserve your o-rings longer.

Use a food grade mineral oil from the grocery store as a substitute. Keg lube is simply a jelly version of mineral oil.

Thanks - Biermuncher, I didn't see your post before I put this last one up...
 
I will say lube is a necessity, but only on the gas and liquid o-rings. They will get very sticky and hard to remove without lube. I only use it on the lid if there is a sealing problem.
 
Rebuild them without lube. Use lube when putting into use. A very small amount is all it takes.
 
Instead of "keg lube", I recommend you use a non-petroleum product like food-grade silicone grease. After several years, petroleum products will degrade (harden) the rubber o-rings and necessitate their replacement.

You can purchase plumbers silicone grease in the plumbing section at Lowes or Home Depot for a couple of dollars.
 
Good thread, was wondering the same thing just the other day. Only replying so I can find this in the near future. Thanks guys/
 
Thanks for the help too! I rebuilt my three kegs today without much trouble. One of fittings was on so tight that i had to break-out the rubber mallet.

I also got to use my tub bender kit to re-bend a screwed up dip tube. Haven't used it since I made my own keggle pick-up tube.

I'm set to start kegging with a a picnic tap. Need to get faucets next.

:mug:
 
I've never used it, never needed it. I just hit kegs with 45 psi gas to seat the O-rings, with no problems.
 
I've never used it, never needed it. I just hit kegs with 45 psi gas to seat the O-rings, with no problems.

Have you ever detected leaks?

I was thinking I should test all 3 of these with a soap-water spray. One of the three kegs had a fitting that screwed on smoothly then stopped abruptly. I didn't have to bugger down on it for that last 1/4 or 1/8 turn. Its like it bottomed out on the seat, so I'm not sure how compressed the o-ring was afterward.

I pumped One-step through all three kegs an could only hear the gas entering the keg. Nothing like that of hissing car tire.

Somebody said earlier that the use of lube helps them seal better, logically that make sense. I think it would keep them from getting brittle over time.
 
I've never used it, never needed it. I just hit kegs with 45 psi gas to seat the O-rings, with no problems.

Have you ever detected leaks?

Not so far. I leak-test them after rebuilding, and charge them to 45 PSI or so with iodophor inside for storage until I need them. I use a very scientific "pull on the gas release valve" test to see if they're still holding pressure some weeks later, and if so, I use them. No leakers to date.
 
what ever happened to self-lubrication?? like teflon and women!!! the posts need lube. let the dcons sit for a while on a starsand oring and it is a pain to remove. i use cip-film 4oz tube is $3.50 at northernbrewer. melts at 120F and ill never in 5 lifetimes need to buy it again if i can keep my pants on.
 
You do not need keg lube for the tube rings anyway. So, go ahead and rebuild.

Petroleum-based lubes will rot rubber o-rings over time, but they rot regardless.
 
Last time I checked, ring rebuilt kits were less than $3 ..Just did 2 I got from Pedalbiker abt a year ago.
 
I'm guessing using keg lube can't hurt but I haven't used any yet and I've had no problems/leaks at all. My disconnects might be a little sticky after they've sat for a long time but that is the only thing i've noticed.

I use my keg/CO2 to pump sanitizer through my beer lines and I usually pressure up the keg to around 20 PSI and spray the keg with starsan to check for leaks. I will also check for leaks again after beer is in the keg and it's all pressured up.
 
So how do you remove keg lube? Everytime after I have a kicked keg, I look at the large o-ring on the lid and it looks like the keg lube turned gummy on me. PBW, soap, etc, won't work.
 
So how do you remove keg lube? Everytime after I have a kicked keg, I look at the large o-ring on the lid and it looks like the keg lube turned gummy on me. PBW, soap, etc, won't work.

Not sure, but you really shouldn't be putting too much keg lube on. The lightest coating works. The tube/jar you get at the LHBS should last forever.
 
Rub it off with paper towel first. That will take most of it off and then a bit of soap and a rinse will have it looking like new. Agree that a light coating works best so you don't have to clean it very often.
 
The whole purpose is so it remains soft and can continue to seal. The lube keeps it from taking a set and from dry rotting or brittling.

All it needs is a super thin coating, just enough to be shiny.

BTW - I use silicone grease for faucets
 
thanks guys, I do you very little. I tried soaking it in very hot water, very hot water with PBW, just plain soap, and it still won't come off. Like I said before, it's just very gummy. Talked to local home brew store yesterday and they said if you can't remove it then it should be fine. what to you guys think about that statement?
 
thanks guys, I do you very little. I tried soaking it in very hot water, very hot water with PBW, just plain soap, and it still won't come off. Like I said before, it's just very gummy. Talked to local home brew store yesterday and they said if you can't remove it then it should be fine. what to you guys think about that statement?

I would be ok with it provided that no big solid chucks on the o-ring would cause it to not seal. You might try using alcohol to clean them. The keg kits are about $6.50 each. If is too much of a pain in the a$$ or is a concern, then just rebuild the kegs with a fresh set of seals and be done with it....

FWIW - I would find a small squirt bottle and fill it with soapy water to check the keg for leaks. Spray a little on the posts and lids looking for bubbles when its under pressure.
 
thanks guys, I do you very little. I tried soaking it in very hot water, very hot water with PBW, just plain soap, and it still won't come off. Like I said before, it's just very gummy. Talked to local home brew store yesterday and they said if you can't remove it then it should be fine. what to you guys think about that statement?

"Gummy"? That doesn't sound like keg lube. And I wouldn't want anything like that inside a keg. Replace the o-ring...

Cheers!
 
"Gummy"? That doesn't sound like keg lube. And I wouldn't want anything like that inside a keg. Replace the o-ring...

Cheers!


Yeah, Its probably just soda syrup.

Buy a new keg rebuild kit as a back up then try to do the safe degrease/defunk with alcohol. Having a spare kit is good to have on hand. It sucks to put CO2 on keg to find it leaking or even worse to have lost all your gas.

Its the same concept of having an extra LP Gas tank for your brew-setup. How crappy is it to have it go out at 36 minutes into the boil?
 
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