how fast can I ferment a SMaSH?

[jwalk4]

It'll be a Vienna/centennial combo with an og of 1.050 ish with saf 05 at 65F beer temp.
Force Carbed.

Think it'll be drinkable in 10-12 days?

 

[cantrell00]

Ideally, three weeks til force carbed & served.

I've done that numerous times with APA/IPA's.

12 days is a tight turn around in my opinion... Dry hopping?

 

[YeastMode]

Think it'll be drinkable in 10-12 days?

Drinkable? Yes, as in you will have an alcoholic beverage with some carbonation. But it will not be the best it could be.

So, if I was in your shoes (and I have been), I would make a starter, pitch it, and let it ferment as long as possible 9-10 days, and then use the next two days to carb it using the popular but potentially tricky "rolling the keg method. Then a few hours before serving, I would purge it down to serving pressure and serve it at a very low pressure to avoid foaming.

 

[JonM]

My fastest ever beer was 17 days, and that was a hefeweizen, which is supposed to be super fresh. 12 days is pushing it with most other styles.

 

[jwalk4]

No dry hop.

I figure 1.050 wouldn't require 3 weeks to finish. Some milds (1.040) are done in 6 days.

 

[cantrell00]

No dry hop.

I figure 1.050 wouldn't require 3 weeks to finish. Some milds (1.040) are done in 6 days.

Gravity doesn't have a ton to do with it in my experience.. I just pitched a 1.085 imperial stout onto a yeast cake that was technically finished in 3 days.

I would do 7-10 days in primary. Cold crash for 2-3 days & then force carb for another 5-7 & serve.

If dry hopping you could dry hop & carb at the same time..

 

[homebrewdr]

Yes, definitely. Nothing wrong with that IMO, but others may disagree. Primary to keg, just be sure to rack carefully. It will change taste and condition further in the keg, but I personally do it frequently with hop forward brews. It is session-able and the hops will be fresh as possible.

Now if it was an imperial stout, then no way.

 

[Psylocide]

Done fermenting? Yes, easily.

Drinkable? Sure.

However, of the three batches I've done, all were ready to drink much sooner than they were ready to be good. Which is about 2 weeks conditioning at room temp in bottles.

I have a feeling it's going to taste pretty green. My Centennial Blonde was drinkable at 3 weeks (bottle conditioned for 1 week) but it didn't taste all that great.

1 more week and it's amazing... so, there's that.

 

[Hello]

My MO / Mosaic SMaSH brewed 12/7, dry hopped 12/17, I was out of town so it sat in a cold garage for a week then I kegged on 12/29. It would have been fine to keg much sooner. It is very good, imo.

My Amarillo SMaSH was brewed on 1-18 and it is pretty much done but I added hops for dry hopping on 1-25. It will sit like that for 5 days, I'll taste it at that time and if it is good I will actually just keg it and force carb for Superbowl Unless the MO SMaSH isn't kicked by then.

 

[jwalk4]

Well thanks for the feedback. I got the opinions I was looking for.

Keeping in mind that some styles benefit from a quick turn around and that because it was a smash, and the beer wouldn't have a complex flavor profile, I could squeeze in the brew before a friends B-day.

I might try it anyway, if I keep a low og and low ibus.

 

[Yooper]

No dry hop.

I figure 1.050 wouldn't require 3 weeks to finish. Some milds (1.040) are done in 6 days.

No, it won't. It probably would finish fermenting in 3-5 days. The only thing about S05 is that it is SLLLLOOOOOWWWWW to drop out and clear, so that might be the factor that makes it less drinkable in a quick time vs. a quick flocculating yeast, like the English strains.

I'm not one of those who think a beer improves much in the fermenter once it's been done for at least a couple of days, but I don't want to drink yeasty beer either so for quick beers I tend to shy away from S05.

You could keg on about day 8, assuming the beer has been finished for at least three days, and keep it cold so it will start to clear better and carb it up at the same time.

10 days is pushing it with that yeast, but 12-14 days is doable.

 

[Malty_Dog]

No, it won't. It probably would finish fermenting in 3-5 days. The only thing about S05 is that it is SLLLLOOOOOWWWWW to drop out and clear, so that might be the factor that makes it less drinkable in a quick time vs. a quick flocculating yeast, like the English strains.

+1, had that experience with a MO/Amarillo SMaSH recently. Ended up (don't freak out people) transferring to secondary to dryhop and clear since S-05 was taking so long to drop in primary. It's tasty now at 5 weeks since brew day. I think S-04 would have been a whole 'nother story.

 

[jwalk4]

Well thats good to know. I'm partial to 05, but I'm not married to it

Maybe I'll try 04 instead.

Thanks, Yoop. Malty_dog.

 

[cantrell00]

WLP007 is a great floccing yeast also...

 

[harrydrez]

Nottingham too, if you want to stick with dry yeast. It also is fairly "clean".

 

[jwalk4]

Ok. So maybe I won't be able to bang out that beer in 12 days, but I still want to get my brew on so I won't miss the next one.

NEW QUESTION, SAME THREAD:
How vital is temp control during the secondary/conditioning phase of fermentation? I recently broke the bank and bought SS brew tech's FTSS temp control lid and corresponding brew bucket. Can I make a batch, keep primary temps low for my SMaSH, then secondary at ~20C? Then brew another batch?

How will conditioning at higher temps affect the brew?

 

[bigdaddybrew]

12 days is plenty. Two packets of rehydrated Nottingham will rip through a beer. Let it hit upper end of temp 68 or so. When it's finished in 3-5 days and your satisfied with the final gravity, rack to secondary and then add the pair of packets called Super kleer KC finings and then cold crash. Clear beer in 48 hrs or less. Keg. When the beer is at serving temp set the CO2 to 20 psi and rock until the gurgling of the co2 stops. Put in the fridge. Wait 2hrs, bleed to serving pressure and try a sample. Repeat until carbed. Careful not to over carb. As everyone else says it will improve with time but 12 days is more than enough. A wheat beer where cloudy and yeasty is more to style is another good option.

 

[cantrell00]

Ok. So maybe I won't be able to bang out that beer in 12 days, but I still want to get my brew on so I won't miss the next one.

NEW QUESTION, SAME THREAD:
How vital is temp control during the secondary/conditioning phase of fermentation? I recently broke the bank and bought SS brew tech's FTSS temp control lid and corresponding brew bucket. Can I make a batch, keep primary temps low for my SMaSH, then secondary at ~20C? Then brew another batch?

How will conditioning at higher temps affect the brew?

How much higher?

If in the low to mid 70's - shouldn't be an issue...

 

[jwalk4]

How much higher?

If in the low to mid 70's - shouldn't be an issue...

Yeah, the space averages ~ 20C (68F)

 

[cantrell00]

Good to go in my opinion...

I had a bunch of bottled beer conditioning in my garage this past summer & the temps hit into the 90's...

Needless to say, awful off flavors... I learned.