Homebrew Talk 3D Print Thread.

[matt_m]

I’ve been looking for something like this for ages
Can I suggest one modification that I think would make it easier to get the lids out without putting dirty fingers underneath the lids?
G slot at the rear opposite the front opening. This would allow you to place fingers on opposite sides of the lid to lift them out

Great suggestion--I've added models for this to Printables!

 

[matt_m]

I like this a lot! Do you have a design without the smart ref caddy?

I do not. There are other EasyDens models out there including the one I started with to create this combo.

 

[k-os]

I released a new version of my e-Paper tap handle that doesn't require you to pause the print and insert nuts halfway. I also created a version with chamfered edges, which looks really nice if you have a printer capable of multi-material printing.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/601081#profileId-523349

 

[Ballaratguy]

Great suggestion--I've added models for this to Printables!

Matt would you be able to send me the link to the updated files please?
(I haven’t been able to find them)

 

[Ballaratguy]

Matt would you be able to send me the link to the updated files please?
(I haven’t been able to find them)

It’s ok I just found them

 

[moosehead]

People designing and printing tap handles, Are you desiging it with threads or are you using a tap or a brass insert?
How deep are you making the hole in the handle?

 

[k-os]

People designing and printing tap handles, Are you desiging it with threads or are you using a tap or a brass insert?

I've done some with printed threads, and they work fine as long as you are careful when tightening it on. I've also used brass inserts as well.

I've been designing mine so that I can insert a 3/8-16 nut after it is printed. I was designing to insert mid-print, but having it able to be installed after makes it
easier as I can just run the print without needing to go back to it before it finishes.

Check out my post above to see how I designed it.

How deep are you making the hole in the handle?

Overall for the faucet threads is 1 inch.

 

[CDCTx]

People designing and printing tap handles, Are you desiging it with threads or are you using a tap or a brass insert?
How deep are you making the hole in the handle?

I'd have to look at my design to get sizing, but I leave a hole for the brass inserts. I take a torch-type lighter to warm the PLA in the hole, which makes screwing the inserts in easy, and the inserts stay in place well once the PLA cools around it.

 

[NitrogenWidget]

i use the brass inserts.
I used to just drill a hole and screw it in with some glue like a savage but now i put a hole in slightly smaller than the insert with a few extra walls to ensure there is something solid to bite into.

 

[LBussy]

Good advice from all. I will share what I learned: You can print taps with threads that will sort of work. You’re going to go through a lot of designs before you finally decide on what to keep. When you have that, use some form of metallic insert. Eventually, the plastic threaded ones will fail at the most inopportune time. My experience anyway.

 

[matt_m]

Mine have been holding up with printed threads. I don't recall if I did extra perimeters or denser infill. Also mine were printed on their side so the most likely failure would be layer separation. All that said, I've been using the inserts on other projects lately and would not hesitate to buy them for the next project (which might happen...Amazon is tempting me with the ESP32-based watch displays...could update them automatically from the Taplist API and could add buttons to record pours....)

 

[LBussy]

Mine have been holding up with printed threads.

I was typing on my mobile. Otherwise, I would have added: "Someone will undoubtedly say theirs works fine."

Cunningham's Law is alive and well.

 

[cgriffith]

People designing and printing tap handles, Are you desiging it with threads or are you using a tap or a brass insert?
How deep are you making the hole in the handle?

I have printed mine with hex insert for a nut and void into handle for any excess threaded stud. Then I epoxy the nut in place.

 

[treacheroustexan]

Always wanted to move back to my hometown and open up a brewery. That’s never going to happen but it’s always been my vision to have our school sports logo on tap handles. Finally bought my own printer and figured it would be a fun project.

Made the model in OnShape and is in the correct school colors. My printed version is in wrong colors because I had extra filament I wanted to use it.

Since it’s the wrong colors, anyone on here want it free of charge? It was a prototype but it works. It has the brass insert. Might sand it a bit and seal it first but I’d be more than happy to send it to someone if they’ll use it.

I’m going to try and make a few in the correct colors and see if any of the local sports bars want them.

 

[CDCTx]

Any chance you can check what size hole for the brass insert? I have a model right now that I’m designing that’s 0.453” for the brass insert. I might test print a small section to check sizing before printing a whole handle but just curious if you knew the hole size first!

On tinkercad, the metric thread hole object I have to make the hole for the insert is 13mm or .51 inches

 

[danb35]

@k-os (or anyone else doing the e-paper tap handles), how do you update the display? Are you just on your own in terms of graphic design, are there templates, etc.?

 

[k-os]

I have a simple template made on Pixlr I can share.

 

[matt_m]

I made mine in Publisher which is end of life in a few months so I need to move it elsewhere.

 

[danb35]

A bit of tinkering in GIMP, with some help from ChatGPT, came up with this:

Not too bad. Looks like I need to get some PETG. And maybe see if I can figure out how to get some nicer fonts into GIMP.

 

[private4587]

Hi everyone just asking if anyone has a strapon probe hold that would fit around a hot liquor tank or fermenter. To take a 5 or 8 mm probe from a STC 1000. I have already printed buckles

 

[LBussy]

I’m traveling, but if you look at the brew bubbles repository, there is a probe holder that @gromitdj made that you might be able to modify.

 

[beren]

Has anyone tried printing a uKeg lid for a ball lock post? They are pretty expensive to buy one.

 

[mashdar]

Has anyone tried printing a uKeg lid for a ball lock post? They are pretty expensive to buy one.

Before they started selling one (or maybe while it was out of stock?) I believe I found a file for a lid without the post - I imagine adding a post wouldn't be too terrible?

Do you cut threads afterwards? I don't 3D print.

 

[LBussy]

Has anyone tried printing a uKeg lid for a ball lock post? They are pretty expensive to buy one.

I don't want this to sound like a typical Internet Forum Warning™, but that does sound dangerous. I don't own one of these kegs so I am guessing at the measurements:

If the bottle opening is 3" then that's ~7" of area, meaning there's 140 lbs of pressure on the lid. I would not trust a 3D print with that.

On top of that, I have never seen a 3D print that was 100% airtight. Because of the post and blow-off, you would not be able to use a sheet gasket. It's almost guaranteed to leak.

Remember: The Joke™ where people believe when they start they can save money by brewing. Just extend that rule to this and buy a cap.

Do you cut threads afterwards? I don't 3D print.

I have printed a number of threaded things, including this "bolt" I use on my bottle label jig:

Generally speaking, the "big chunky" threads are simple to print and they work pretty well. That said, the fault plane is horizontal to the print (across the bolt) so they cannot take a bunch of stress.

 

[CJ-3]

I've designed a few tap handles as gifts for a friend who is a big fan of DC Comics. Here is a link to one and the other files can be found linked to it.
https://www.printables.com/model/630481-the-riddler-tap-handle

 

[NeoBrew]

When you pull the joker handle, do you get.a surprise?