Home brewery upgrades

[sictransit701]

I am looking to upgrade my home brewery.

I currently do 5 gallon batches. Cooler for a mash tun. And a boil kettle. The simple beginner all grain set up.

I have done some google searches and watched some videos on electric brewing and brewing systems. I have come across the wort hog 2 vessel brew system. The two vessel seems like a gradual step up. Could someone help me figure out how that system works? What is the process? I just don’t understand all the pro brewing lingo.

 

[RM-MN]

First upgrade is to get fermentation temperature under control. This one made the most difference in my beer. If you already have that, I'd suggest exploring BIAB. Very little expense to try. I'd start with a half size batch right in your boil kettle using a paint strainer bag.

 

[BrewInspector]

I'll second the temp control for fermentation as the first move

Perhaps a second burner and pot with valve hot liquor tank for a the tier system.

Another option could be a plastic conical fermenting for yeast collection.

Building or purchase of a kegging system eliminating most or all bottling.

These were my upgrades (not necessarily in that order) that I made making all grain brewing and consumption easier and more enjoyable.

 

[kingmatt]

The first thing to do is identify WHY you need to upgrade, that will tell you where and how much. Do you need the ability to boil inside? Do you want to start brewing 10 gallon batches instead of 5? Do you want to have the ability to easily do step mashes? Do you just want prettier equipment?

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Could someone help me figure out how that system works? What is the process? I just don’t understand all the pro brewing lingo.

Before doing anything I'd learn about brewing, understand the process and understand the terms/words being used. Only then purchase what is needed.

 

[Jtvann]

And have fun with it. The main reason I brew is the actual process and fun of brewing. I give most of my beer away to make room for more beer so I can brew again.

I started with a cooler mash tun and boil kettle. That's enough to do all grain. I moved to a nice brew kettle, repurposing my old kettle as a HLT. Upgraded the cooler to a nice insulated mash tun. Added pumps to keep from lifting heavy hot liquids. Built a nice brew stand. Added a rims tube, after trying a herms coil. Tried recirculation. Upgraded to all electric. Started brewing indoors. Moved to 10 gallon batches. Immersion chillers, plate chiller, immersion chiller again and in line filters.

The way I brew now ... single vessel bag on an electric system in a 20 gallon pot. I love trying new things, and honestly probably have less than 3 batches in a row where I didnt add something or change my process somehow. I've spent more money than I ever care to know, but it's been hella fun experimenting.

What I've learned is there's a million ways to skin a cat. Figure out what sounds like fun and inch your way towards it. As to what to pick next, I totally agree with RM-MN, get some solid fermentation temp control. All the process related stuff will make more sense over time and you'll figure out how you want to brew. Whatever fermenter you want to use can be temp controlled. Figure that out first and you'll see the biggest improvements.

 

[kevin58]

I'm going to second what many others have already said. Why do you want to "upgrade". I put that in quotes because the cooler mash tun with a boil kettle is a setup that works just fine. Do you want to brew bigger batches? Do you want to simplify your brew process? That was the biggest motivation for me for moving away from that type of setup. Just moving water/wort around became problematic. Or are you seeing all the stainless steel systems around and you just want one?

I now have a three vessel electric HERMs system but honestly, the beer I make now is no better than the beer I made with my Coleman cooler and turkey fryer kettle. Having pumps now to move water/wort between vessels is a Godsend but the one thing that improved my beer unrelated to all of that was fermentation temperature control.

 

[Baglorious]

Everyone above is right on. Evaluate your goals for an upgrade... but don't necessarily upgrade just because there is more 'stuff' out there. (P.S. There is some really nice stuff out there!)

I am a huge tinkerer... and enjoy trying different processes. For me, half the fun is just screwing around with equipment and setup. My father and I started homebrewing 8(ish) years ago with the traditional setup. Kettle, immersion chiller... doing extract brews and bottling it. We did about 10 batches... then it sat in his basement for years. We lapsed due to the time issues... MOSTLY with (in my opinion) because we didn't like the time spent bottling 10 gallon batches.

I dragged it all back out about 1.5 years ago... and immediately got corny kegs, a used kegerator... began upgrades... and haven't stopped 'upgrading'. Probably $2k later (and I've done it on the cheap, frankly), I'm still playing around with the process.

My first goal (going to kegs) was for time and effort savings. I built a keg washer (plans on this site)… I built a carbonation system using a pump (plans on this site). Those additional things... unnecessary. But fun for me.

I've since moved from my 15 gal propane fired kettle brewing 10 gal extract batches… to all grain using an Igloo cooler (10 gal round w false bottom) that I got used for 50 bucks. Upgraded to all grain.

Then, I decided I wanted to be able to brew indoors... and moved to electric.

Was lucky to find a Warthog turnkey system, 120V, used. Was a great system with a 10 gallon kettle... but could only do 5 gal batches. But I wanted to try it out, and brewed on it a couple of times... decided I liked it, but wanted to have more capacity... re-sold it, and upgraded to 240v. Built my own setup (modeled after many of the commercially available setups) by learning how to silver solder through brewhardware.com. (Easy.)

I'm now on a 20gal Blichmann kettle that I modified to my liking, and did eBIAB for a few batches.

Then... I "upgraded" to add a COOLER mashtun (yep... pretty much just like my first one, only bigger)… and am now doing 2 vessel brews, similar in process to Blichmann Breweaesy (and similar to Warthog 2 vessel systems, and other similar systems.)

With my old kettle, I can theoretically do 3 vessel... but just haven't bothered yet.


SO - to make a long story short... the possibilities are endless. And if you like to tinker (like me) there is endless enjoyment available just by screwing around.

And it all costs money. If I count the number of times I've shelled out $100+ just for "nuts and bolts" (camlocks, bulkheads, etc.)… well, I don't want to count the number of times. So I don't. But it has been expensive.

However, if you just want to make good beer... keep it simple. Use what you've got, as the product you produce can be great just with basics.

If you're deciding on an upgrade "goal"... temp controlled fermentation is a great start.

Another good goal is kegging. (Hint... if your kegerator is empty... PRESTO! Temp controlled fermentation chamber.)

There are a million ways to go... and the first step is determining what, if any, upgrade goals you have.

I'd also suggest... do it on the cheap. Facebook marketplace, craigslist. You might find upgrades to try (particularly if you're patient) that won't break the bank.

It doesn't take much to make good beer!

 

[Baglorious]

Erroneous double post... now edited.

 

[sictransit701]

Thanks for the replies. The reasons for my upgrades are:

1. Have a recirculating mash for clearer wort.
2. Moving large amounts of liquids without busting my back.
3. Chilling by recirculating in a closed environment.

I know the process of brewing on my set up. I know the terms. I have fermentation temp control. I put my carboy in the fridge with a temp controller. I am not interested in biab.

I was just curious about how the mash works in a two vessel system. I saw a demo of the wort hog two vessel system. I can’t figure out how he sparged. Maybe a sparge isn’t needed? I don’t know. Also, he mentioned his two pump system set up in an infinity loop. Huh? Then, he kept switching on and off heating elements. Just curious how this system works.
Also, how does chilling after the boil work in a two vessel system? He recirculated the wort after the boil and chilled. How? He doesn’t really explain. Also curious about electric brewing. Would I need to have special outlet installed?

I know brewing. I know the terms. Well, mostly. Not familiar with herms, rims, and infinity loops. Some responses from some of you were to learn the terms first. That’s why I’m here. Can someone help me out with how this two vessel system works. Or, where I can learn about it?

 

[RM-MN]

Clear wort is not equal to clear beer and in fact they are not even related. You just want to keep large pieces of grain and grain husks out.

 

[brewbama]

Clear wort is not equal to clear beer and in fact they are not even related. You just want to keep large pieces of grain and grain husks out.

While that’s true, FWIW I understand 5-40x more lipids are transferred in cloudy wort entering the boil kettle which is said to lead to accelerated staling.

 

[Baglorious]

Thanks for the replies. The reasons for my upgrades are:

1. Have a recirculating mash for clearer wort.
2. Moving large amounts of liquids without busting my back.
3. Chilling by recirculating in a closed environment.

I know the process of brewing on my set up. I know the terms. I have fermentation temp control. I put my carboy in the fridge with a temp controller. I am not interested in biab.

I was just curious about how the mash works in a two vessel system. I saw a demo of the wort hog two vessel system. I can’t figure out how he sparged. Maybe a sparge isn’t needed? I don’t know. Also, he mentioned his two pump system set up in an infinity loop. Huh? Then, he kept switching on and off heating elements. Just curious how this system works.
Also, how does chilling after the boil work in a two vessel system? He recirculated the wort after the boil and chilled. How? He doesn’t really explain. Also curious about electric brewing. Would I need to have special outlet installed?

I know brewing. I know the terms. Well, mostly. Not familiar with herms, rims, and infinity loops. Some responses from some of you were to learn the terms first. That’s why I’m here. Can someone help me out with how this two vessel system works. Or, where I can learn about it?

The mash on a 2 vessel system is quite simple, and has some similarities with BIAB that are nice. Namely, you start with the full volume of water all at once. Instead of your mash being in a bag within the kettle... your mash is simply in a 2nd vessel, and the full volume of water is circulated between the 2 vessels. You also get some herms/rims benefits... insofar as your boil kettle is always involved, and in an electric system, you can use the boil kettle to hold (perfectly) or adjust temps.

I'm sure different people vary... but here's my process. I have an elevated mash tun, so only use one pump:

Heat all the water in BK.
Add grain to mash tun.
Transfer part of (strike) water to mash tun using pump. (I actually fill from the bottom, as many do.) About 60% of the water ends up in the mash tun (just based on my capacities), and 40% remains in the BK.
I recirculate within the mash tun only for about 10 minutes... equivalent to a vorlauf, and sets the grain bed.
Then, reconfigure the hoses to recirculate in a loop between both vessels. Mash tun drains to BK at same rate as I pump from BK to MT.

My mash is 60 mins

The "sparge" in this process is simply heating all of the water while recirculating (using the BK) until is equilibrates at 170 in both vessels, then let it recirculate at that temp for about 15 minutes.

I like the 2 vessel... because it has some of the simplicities of BIAB, but due to recirculation (and setting a grain bed in a separate vessel) you get the benefits of the clearer wort that you get from a vorlauf. Also, instead of hanging/handling a heavy (and hot) bag... I think it is easier to deal with the spent grain in a cooler.

Other people, of course, think it is just overcomplicating BIAB... and traditionalists say 3 vessel is the only way to go.

So YMMV. I went with a 2 vessel because I liked the idea... and it is easily convertible either way. I can do BIAB if I'd like, or can add by (old) BK as an HLT... and do 3 vessel. (Just haven't tried that yet.)


As for a bit more info on it: Research "Brutus 20"... you probably have already found that. The Blichmann Breweasy is actually the same idea... just in a different (and expensive) configuration. I prefer the simplicity of gravity plus 1 pump.

Here's the "Brutus 20" article and an HBT post...

http://www.alenuts.com/Alenuts/brutus20.html

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/countertop-brutus-20.131411/

Here's a good article on "Breweasy Brewday Tips" that discusses some of the concepts in practice. (Note: I haven't messed with PH yet... and my beer has been great... but I'll get around to it eventually.)
https://www.greatfermentations.com/brew-day-tips-blichmann-breweasy/


Here's a pic of my gravity 2 vessel system. Pardon the, um, spartan look of the utility area in which it is contained:

Finally... if you want large batches (for electric), you'd need to go with a 240v circuit... and that will be a significant upgrade cost. (Unless you know an electrician who will cut you a break.) If you're sticking with 5 gal batches, you can get by with 120v on a 20amp circuit. (Get a Blichmann boilcoil setup if you'd go 120v... highest power rating at 120v. I had one before going to 240v, and it was quite good.)

 

[philb1969]

HERMS=Heat Exchange Recirculating Mash System-you take the mash liquid (via a pump) and pass it through a coil which is immersed in water that is heated to the mash temp. Passing the mash liquid through the grain bed helps with conversion and extraction of the sugars from the grain and helps you keep a constant temp.
RIMS=Recirculating Infusion Mash Systems-same thing as HERMS except you pass the mash liquid directly over a heating element instead of through a coil in hot water.
Infinity loop=In the Wort Hog video you are talking about, the pump and hose configuration looks like the infinity symbol ∞. He's pulling from the bottom of the grain bed (pot#1) and taking that liquid to the top of pot #2, heating it up to mash temp, pulling from the bottom of pot#2 and taking it back to the top of pot#1 (the grain bed). Similar benefits to HERMS and RIMS.