Help with Kegerator- beer tastes off after few days

[gwujkiw]

I have a kegerator with 5.5ft of 3/16 of beer line, Krome Dual Guage Regulator and Perlick Lo Boy Low Profile D Coupler. Tap is a new nuka tap forward close tap. Everything has been properly cleaned including the faucet, shank, etc....

I have bought a few sixtels of Maine Beer Lunch IPA and after a few days the beer starts to taste off, loses its tropical notes and gets a really bitter aftertaste. I reconfirmed this buy going to a local bar that had this exact beer on tap.

Marvel Kegerator is set to 37 degrees and beer out of faucet is exactly 38.4 degrees. I am applying 12psi of CO2 to the keg but have also tried 10psi and issue remains

I can't detect any leaks of CO2 even with star-san at all connections and pressure seems to be holding. I have had the CO2 for months with now detectable loss of gas.

Any ideas? I dont even know where to begin at this point.

Only thing I can think of is maybe I am applying to much pressure to the worm clamps on the hose and barbs and that maybe causing an issue.

 

[day_trippr]

Welcome to Homebrew Talk!

What was/is the provenance of those MB Lunch kegs? Were they filled at their brewery? Have you tapped all of the kegs already - and if so are they showing the same concern?

Wrt to the CO2 and the dispensing system in general: have you dispensed any other beers prior to the Lunch?

I'm trying to think of a process that could cause such loss of character in such short order, assuming a well-cared-for fill. I've never had that happen - but I've never tapped someone else's kegs, either.

 

[gwujkiw]

They were filled by brewery, purchased on two separate occasions at local distributor and were kept cold. The same thing also happened with another beer so I dont think its lunch specific. Troegs Nugget Nectar was the other.

 

[gwujkiw]

On that low profile coupler it also has a tag that says pull PRV valve before tapping. Which I did, I assume that is to purge any air out of the CO2 line. So pulled the valve briefly, put the coupler into the threads of the top of the keg rotated clockwise till it stopped then you push down on the low profile coupler and turn it clock-wise rest of the way and it pressurizes the keg

Unless maybe I am supposed to pull that pressure release thing after I do the first clock-wise rotation before pushing down and turning the rest of the way.

 

[Broken Crow]

5.5ft of 3/16 of beer line,

would that be the cheap beverage line that originally shipped with the unit?

 

[gwujkiw]

would that be the cheap beverage line that originally shipped with the unit?

I actually got it from the homebrew supply store locally. However I just purchased 10ft of beer line from micromatic, you think it would be advisable to try that instead?

 

[Broken Crow]

Personally, I suspect you're tasting the hose but even if it turns out to be some kegging issue, I'd still recommend uprgading to EVABarrier. (You'll find a massive amount of well-earned praise on here for EVABarrier)
Here's my suggestion:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/pushshank.htm or possibly the whole SS shank/duotight set: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/pushreducer.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/evabarriertubing4mm55.htm
..That'll cover you from your coupler to the tap.

 

[IslandLizard]

That^
Not only your beer lines, you also want to replace all your gas (CO2) lines with EVA Barrier tubing, using those push-to-fit fittings.

Although it might seem counterintuitive, oxygen (air containing 21%) will also get into your beer through the (CO2) gas side tubing going to your kegs, unless you use EVA Barrier tubing there too.

 

[gwujkiw]

Can you shoot me a link to the stuff I would need for the gas side? I will order it all today.

 

[gwujkiw]

Personally, I suspect you're tasting the hose but even if it turns out to be some kegging issue, I'd still recommend uprgading to EVABarrier. (You'll find a massive amount of well-earned praise on here for EVABarrier)
Here's my suggestion:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/pushshank.htm or possibly the whole SS shank/duotight set: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/pushreducer.htm
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/evabarriertubing4mm55.htm
..That'll cover you from your coupler to the tap.

What exactly do I do with the reducer you have linked?

 

[gwujkiw]

That^
Not only your beer lines, you also want to replace all your gas (CO2) lines with EVA Barrier tubing, using those push-to-fit fittings.

Although it might seem counterintuitive, oxygen (air containing 21%) will also get into your beer through the (CO2) gas side tubing going to your kegs, unless you use EVA Barrier tubing there too.

My other issue is my regulator has barbs so not sure how I can uses the EVA Barrier tubing there.

 

[BongoYodeler]

My other issue is my regulator has barbs so not sure how I can uses the EVA Barrier tubing there.

So did mine. I sold my regulator to someone in my brew club and bought a new Taprite with MFL fitting.

https://www.kegoutlet.com/co2-beer-regulator-double-gauge-taprite-regulator.html?gad_source=1

 

[mac_1103]

my regulator has barbs so not sure how I can uses the EVA Barrier tubing there

Heat he tubing up, swage it over the barbs and clamp it. You can use larger diameter tubing on the gas side depending on the size of the barbs.

 

[gwujkiw]

Heat he tubing up, swage it over the barbs and clamp it. You can use larger diameter tubing on the gas side depending on the size of the barbs.

Okay I have a 3/8 Barb on the regulator what size barrier cable you think would be best to try and fit on there?

Thanks for all the info guys.

 

[mac_1103]

I have a 3/8 Barb on the regulator what size barrier cable you think would be best to try and fit on there?

@day_trippr says he's gotten 5 mm over 3/8" barb, but I would use the 6.3 mm myself.

 

[gwujkiw]

@day_trippr says he's gotten 5 mm over 3/8" barb, but I would use the 6.3 mm myself.

Okay thanks everything has been ordered.

 

[IslandLizard]

[...] but I would use the 6.3 mm myself.

Yes, the OP, @gwujkiw, should get 6.3mm ID for the gas side, easier to swage over the 3/8" barb.
Internal line diameter only matters on the liquid/beer side.

 

[Broken Crow]

What exactly do I do with the reducer you have linked?

Sorry, (I'm not very clear-headed today) I've no idea what if any experience you may have with push-on fittings such as the awesome Duotights we all love on here... That adapter is specifically for using 8mm Outer Diameter EVABarrier to attach to a Nukatap push-fitting shank:

Though you probably have a standard barbed shank which a few people have successfully shoved this adapter on to:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/perlick-630ss-with-duotight-connection.730987/#post-10338829
In the long run though, probably better to buy the Nuka shank and make sure it's Stainless steel and not the plated chrome (which slowly disolves into your beer over the years...'Drink the Beer, Not The Hardware' )
For the gas side, yes you can swag EVABarrier over barbs.. for my own I use the 1/4" (6.35mm) ID EVABarrier; https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/evabarriertubing6mm55.htm
Here's a thread you might find helpful: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/eva-barrier-line-conversion.733937/

 

[gwujkiw]

Sorry, (I'm not very clear-headed today) I've no idea what if any experience you may have with push-on fittings such as the awesome Duotights we all love on here... That adapter is specifically for using 8mm Outer Diameter EVABarrier to attach to a Nukatap push-fitting shank:
View attachment 870066
Though you probably have a standard barbed shank which a few people have successfully shoved this adapter on to:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/perlick-630ss-with-duotight-connection.730987/#post-10338829
In the long run though, probably better to buy the Nuka shank and make sure it's Stainless steel and not the plated chrome (which slowly disolves into your beer over the years...'Drink the Beer, Not The Hardware' )
For the gas side, yes you can swag EVABarrier over barbs.. for my own I use the 1/4" (6.35mm) ID EVABarrier; https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/evabarriertubing6mm55.htm
Here's a thread you might find helpful: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/eva-barrier-line-conversion.733937/

I ordered this one you recommended. I decided to go with the push fittings as why not? right.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htm

I assume this will still work with my nuka tap, correct?

 

[Broken Crow]

I ordered this one you recommended. I decided to go with the push fittings as why not? right.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htm

I assume this will still work with my nuka tap, correct?

Yes, they're both made by @KegLand specifically to go together. I hope you had a look through the thread I linked to as it has a number of choices you can try for doing the gas side.

 

[gwujkiw]

Yes, they're both made by @KegLand specifically to go together. I hope you had a look through the thread I linked to as it has a number of choices you can try for doing the gas side.

I did I am going to use the 6.3mm evabarrier heat in some hot water then use a swag tool or chopstick to widen the hole a bit, let it cool and then use a bit of keg lube on barb and try to connect that way.

I was just gonna use normal vinyl gas line but if I am doing everything else eva barrier at this point I guess I should just do all of it.

 

[gwujkiw]

I was thinking of running 6 foot or 6.5ft of eva barrier beer line instead of 5.5ft you think thats okay? I figured that gives me some lee way if I ever decide I want a beer that might need more pressure then 12psi.

I have learned a ton today.

 

[mac_1103]

I was just gonna use normal vinyl gas line but if I am doing everything else eva barrier at this point I guess I should just do all of it.

You won't regret it. And I hope it solves your immediate issue but there certainly could be other causes of what you're tasting.

 

[gwujkiw]

I feel like i noticed this fairly recently and its around the time I bought the new beer line from the home brew store so it kinda makes sense. That being said I also bought a new coupler incase that may be the issue.

 

[mac_1103]

I was thinking of running 6 foot or 6.5ft of eva barrier beer line instead of 5.5ft you think thats okay? I figured that gives me some lee way if I ever decide I want a beer that might need more pressure then 12psi.

Diameter (3 mm, 4mm, 5mm)? Mine are 5.5 feet of 4 mm. This calculator says that should be good for 15 PSI. I don't think too long will hurt anything; just might pour a little slower.

 

[gwujkiw]

Diameter (3 mm, 4mm, 5mm)? Mine are 5.5 feet of 4 mm. This calculator says that should be good for 15 PSI. I don't think too long will hurt anything; just might pour a little slower.

I would be using 4mm.

 

[gwujkiw]

I think Ill go with 5.5ft after using the calculator. I dont see myself going over 15psi in most situations

 

[Yesfan]

I did I am going to use the 6.3mm evabarrier heat in some hot water then use a swag tool or chopstick to widen the hole a bit, let it cool and then use a bit of keg lube on barb and try to connect that way.

I was just gonna use normal vinyl gas line but if I am doing everything else eva barrier at this point I guess I should just do all of it.

If you're buying the one from Brew Hardware, then you don't need to swag the 6.3 mm to it. That shank has the included push to connect fitting for 8mm O.D. beer/gas line. You just connect your EVA beer line to it and your good to go. No swag tool needed. The 8mm line has two different inner diameters that work with that shank/fitting. 4mm (recommended for shorter lines) and 5mm.

 

[mac_1103]

No swag tool needed.

Except for the barbed connector on his regulator.

 

[Yesfan]

Except for the barbed connector on his regulator.

I didn't catch that. He could always add this to his order.

Ball Valve 1/4" npt to 1/4" mfl w/ check valve