Help! please!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Brewer_Chad

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2007
Messages
110
Reaction score
4
Location
Dunedin
I made my first batch of full grain this week and the air lock did not bubble at all for the first eight hours now it is bubbling about every thirty minuets. I have never had an fermentation problem before so I don't know what to do. I am putting brewing specifics below.


4 lbs. American 2-row info
4 lbs. American 6-row Pale info
1 lbs. Corn Flaked info
1 lbs. Rice Raw info
.5 oz. Cascade (Whole, 5.50 %AA) boiled 40 min. info
.25 oz. Cascade (Whole, 5.50 %AA) boiled 30 min. info
.25 oz. Cascade (Whole, 5.50 %AA) boiled 15 min. info
2 tablespoons Vanilla Extract (not included in calculations)

Batch Size 5 gal.
Volume Boiled 3.5 gal.

I mashed at 154 for 60 min.

I did an english sparge, which according to John Palmer, is a seconded mash at 154 for 60 min.

Using John Palmer's (Measure the gravity in the boiling pot and multiply the points by the number of gallons you collected. Then divide by the number of pounds of grain you used. The result should be somewhere around 30. 27 is okay, 29 is good, and over 30 is great.) Formula I came out with a 21.5, I know I need to luater slower next time.

I did two 60 min boils using 1.75 gal and halving the hops and vanilla between the two boils.

I then strained the hops from the boil, and added water with the sprayer in the sink to add oxygen, cool the wort, and bring it up just above 5 gal.

After a three and a half hour wait I hydrated my Safale us-50 dry ale yeast at 80 degrees for 30 min. and pitched. "I dropped my thermostat in the water while hydrating." I tested the heat of the mash on my wrist an it was warm; not hot. At this point I pitched and stirred vigorously to get oxygen in it. I also stirred vigorously once an hour for the three hours of cooling. I am buying a wort chiller next month so no worries.

I have made several partial batches always using tap water and have never had an problem. So, I don't think its that. Maybe the water was to hot; but I have done several batches using my wrist? I guess the yeast could be bad; but I checked the date and it was for 10/09? The brew store said that the ph would be ok and lots of people brew with out any additives for ph balance? The temp of the room where it is fermenting is 73 degrees.

Please I could use your help to figure out what went wrong and how I can fix it. Thank you.

I was told to give it 12+ hours,which I have, it has now been 38 hours and bobbling has stopped. I was also told to move to a cooler place, which I did, I put it in a 64 degree room.
 
Thanks for the article. When should I take a hydrometer reading?


Maybe you should read this if you haven't How to Brew - By John Palmer

Hydrometer usage is essential especially if you're brewing allgrain..I'm kinda shocked that it is foreign to you, especially since this isn't your first batch of beer ever, and you've brewed partial mash before.

Wait at least 10 days and check it.

Until then relax....and get outta the habit of thinking airlocks mean anything...

:mug:
 
Chad,

Read Palmer. Also, take a hydrometer reading right before you pitch your yeast. Take your second reading before you either a.)get ready to transfer to secondary, or 2.)get ready to bottle.

Palmer is a great resource, and it's available online for free!!

I was in my LHBS on Saturday, and one of the employee's was holding court with a group of 4 guys who claimed to have done about 12 batches together. They really had no clue about hydrometers and how to use them. And the employee wasn't really pushing the issue. I finally stepped in and told them how important a hydrometer is and told them that they needed to buy one RIGHT THEN!!!

The employee is normally a pretty conscientous guy and brewer, but I think that he is kind of old school. He brews mostly kits, so he knows what his S.G. should be going in, and like a lot of people, he doesn't bother with a hydrometer reading. He just waits for the airlock to stop bubbling and then gives it a little extra time. Old school.
 
Chad,

Read Palmer. Also, take a hydrometer reading right before you pitch your yeast. Take your second reading before you either a.)get ready to transfer to secondary, or 2.)get ready to bottle.

Palmer is a great resource, and it's available online for free!!

I was in my LHBS on Saturday, and one of the employee's was holding court with a group of 4 guys who claimed to have done about 12 batches together. They really had no clue about hydrometers and how to use them. And the employee wasn't really pushing the issue. I finally stepped in and told them how important a hydrometer is and told them that they needed to buy one RIGHT THEN!!!

The employee is normally a pretty conscientous guy and brewer, but I think that he is kind of old school. He brews mostly kits, so he knows what his S.G. should be going in, and like a lot of people, he doesn't bother with a hydrometer reading. He just waits for the airlock to stop bubbling and then gives it a little extra time. Old school.

You mean you b***hslapped Andy??? :D
 
By the way, I'm off to go buy Papazian's "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing". I got a Barnes & Noble Gift card that is burning a hole in my pocket. I was going to get the print edition of How to Brew, but they don't have it in stock, and I can always just read it online.
 
The profile pic. is Hunter S. Thompson, drawn by Ralph Steadman. I have read John Palmers book and I have taken a Hydrometer reading for mash, and alcohol content. I just wasn't sure about how long I should wait before checking it while in the fermenter. Usually I just pitch it and forget it. Thank you for the advice I really appreciate it.
 
By the way, I'm off to go buy Papazian's "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing". I got a Barnes & Noble Gift card that is burning a hole in my pocket. I was going to get the print edition of How to Brew, but they don't have it in stock, and I can always just read it online.

Buddy, buy something else, like "designing great beers" or "Radical Brewing" save your gift card...you really are beyond papazian...and I'll loan you my copy if you want...It's great for a first timer but you ain't gonna learn anything new in it that you don't already know...to you and me, the datedness of it will show. It's great for a beginner...but once you've been brewing and done all grain it isn't going to break new ground for you...
 
Chad, a good rule of thumb is to check it at about a week. If you don't plan on doing secondary, then wait 2 weeks. It's not going to hurt to give it a little extra time.

Taking the second hydrometer reading is important because it lets you know how much of the sugar has fermented out. This is important because it relates to 1.)your ABV%, and b.) it could prevent bottle bombs.

Both of those things are important because you will want to know how long to condition your beer if it's high ABV% and because your wife will kill you if she catches you mopping the ceiling and vacuuming up beer. Remember, a happy wife makes for a happy brewer, and a happy brewer makes happy beer. That's my Zen thought for the day.
 
Buddy, buy something else, like "designing great beers" or "Radical Brewing" save your gift card...you really are beyond papazian...and I'll loan you my copy if you want...It's great for a first timer but you ain't gonna learn anything new in it that you don't already know...to you and me, the datedness of it will show. It's great for a beginner...but once you've been brewing and done all grain it isn't going to break new ground for you...

I disagree on not learning anything. I still break out my old tattered "Homebrewing for Dummies" book before every batch I brew, just to review a bit, and that book is REALLY basic. Besides, I always wanted a copy of that book, and I have a coupon and a gift card. I really wish that they had Palmer's book though. It would be nice to be able to read it at work.
 
Amen to the happy wife; I only have a fiancée, but I try to keep her happy. Altho, she was less than happy when I scorched the stove black Saturday night brewing. I am off to find a stove top cleaner today. I always take a hydrometer reading for alcohol content. Just wanted to know how long to wait before opening the fermenter. Thank you for your help.
 
OK, sorry, I guess that I wasn't understand your question. That's my fault. Wait one to 2 weeks. Use a wine thief or a turkey baster(sanitized of course), and pull your sample. Brew on!!

Yeah, you better get that cleaned. While you're out, get a turkey fryer and a larger brew pot. She will thank you for it in the end, trust me.
 
No, 5 gallons, but half the grain bill. Otis's was a HUGE beer that was extreme. By cutting the grain bill in half, I got it down to something that I could drink and brew within a month or 2. Although, I have to say that I would like to brew it as it was, some day.
 
I ended up passing on Papazian's book. The only copy that Barnes & Noble had was kind of ripped, and the specific information that I was looking for wasn't in there. So I came home and ordered Palmer's book online. It should be here in a few days.

I would still like to get Papazian's book, but I think that I will scour the used book stores for it instead.

Otis,

That recipe looks great. I have 2 big beers planned for this year. One will be a Raspberry Eisbock, and the other is the Chocolate Oatmeal Cookie Stout. I think that I am going to do the stout sometime around Easter, and I'll do the Eisbock after that. I figure that the stout will be ready by Christmas, and the Eisbock will be ready by the next Christmas.
 
Good news, I opened the fermenter, and took a peak. It had a lot of cuzen, after putting the lid back on, and shoving the air lock further down; I can now see lots of bubbles about one every 15 sec. You guys were right. Thanks for all your help.
 
I ended up passing on Papazian's book. The only copy that Barnes & Noble had was kind of ripped, and the specific information that I was looking for wasn't in there. So I came home and ordered Palmer's book online. It should be here in a few days.

What information were you looking for? I have Papazian's book and I have read Palmer's book as well. I read Palmer's book on line before I ever brewed my first batch. Papazian's book came with my original brew kit.

I have really only been brewing since the beginning of October 08 but I have read as much as I can get my hands on and I have brewed every weekend since 12 Oct 08. I brew only all grain because it is a challenge for me, not for any other reason. I will be moving up to 10 gallon batches shortly.

Anyway, I was wondering what information you were looking for? I'm also thinking about trying a decoction. Maybe next time I take leave I'll brew the exact same batch one day with an infusion mash and the next day do a decoction just to see what the flavor difference is.
 
Good news, I opened the fermenter, and took a peak. It had a lot of cuzen, after putting the lid back on, and shoving the air lock further down; I can now see lots of bubbles about one every 15 sec. You guys were right. Thanks for all your help.

Yeah, but you should have just trusted us, and realized that we answer this same question 20-30 times every day and rarely is there really an actual problem with the yeasties. And also not opened the fermenter...you don't want to open your bucket too much, if you don't have to.

But glad you're calm now. :mug:
 
I am kind of confused..........

Did you do a partial boil All-Grain? It sounds like you topped up with water? If so, this seems like an odd thing for all grain?
 
What information were you looking for? I have Papazian's book and I have read Palmer's book as well. I read Palmer's book on line before I ever brewed my first batch. Papazian's book came with my original brew kit.

I have really only been brewing since the beginning of October 08 but I have read as much as I can get my hands on and I have brewed every weekend since 12 Oct 08. I brew only all grain because it is a challenge for me, not for any other reason. I will be moving up to 10 gallon batches shortly.

Anyway, I was wondering what information you were looking for? I'm also thinking about trying a decoction. Maybe next time I take leave I'll brew the exact same batch one day with an infusion mash and the next day do a decoction just to see what the flavor difference is.

What I was specifically looking for is information on potential specific gravity of different grains. The Joy of Homebrewing only lists about 6 different grains, and none of them are very specific.

I know that I can get the info online, but the place I work at blocked internet access to all sorts of sites, including anything that has to do with alcohol. They also have something set up that sends an email to several bosses as soon as somebody tries to access those blocked sites, or if we try to access a proxy server. Our IT guy is a little freakin weazle that gets off on getting employees busted. The last time that he came over to our building, I may have threatened his life. I do know that ever since then, we have been getting quiet little notes about new sites that are being blocked.

But I digress. I want to be able to have a book that I can take to work with me and search for info. I have also been think about getting the Brewmaster's Bible. I looked at it the other day, and it looks like a really complete book, but maybe a bit dry.
 
Back
Top