You might try storing the basket with the bottom plate in place a few times. It helps the basket develop shape memory. My plate, when wet, slips right in after I did that....and then I add the pipe and nut.
Grainfather!!
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w1828
New Member
Got my Grainfather about a year ago. Love it. I brew 2.5 gallon batches. I love beer but can't drink a lot. Gives me a chance to have quicker turnover and more variety.
Most people may know, but in my attempt to get a bit better temp control I ran across this document to change the hysteresis:
http://media.wix.com/ugd/e8b8c7_0c7caceab63b48ffa6317ba31ae2d1db.pdf
I had been thinking about changing over to Celsius to see if it was more accurate. But 0.5C hysteresis vs 1F should be about the same. So setting the controller to C then back to F will let you change the Fahrenheit hysteresis down to 1 from it's default of 2 degrees.
I haven't done a brew yet, but thinking of one this weekend, my guess it the mash temp should be more accurate.
http://media.wix.com/ugd/e8b8c7_0c7caceab63b48ffa6317ba31ae2d1db.pdf
I had been thinking about changing over to Celsius to see if it was more accurate. But 0.5C hysteresis vs 1F should be about the same. So setting the controller to C then back to F will let you change the Fahrenheit hysteresis down to 1 from it's default of 2 degrees.
I haven't done a brew yet, but thinking of one this weekend, my guess it the mash temp should be more accurate.
Pantherjon
Well-Known Member
I found when I changed mine that the temp was rock solid the whole way through the mash...Granted, it MAY have fluctuated when I wasn't looking, but every time I looked at was right at my mash temp..Also, granted, I have only done a single brew on mine, so as the saying goes, your mileage may vary...
I found when I changed mine that the temp was rock solid the whole way through the mash...Granted, it MAY have fluctuated when I wasn't looking, but every time I looked at was right at my mash temp..Also, granted, I have only done a single brew on mine, so as the saying goes, your mileage may vary...
So I did another batch last night, turned out well, the mash temp was held better (kicks on after only 1 degree drop in temp as expected), but with the mash element on, it continues to fall after that for another 2 degrees before stabilizing. I had to toggle the large element a few times throughout the mash.
I'm going to wait and see what they come out with for a controller. I would like to control the GF from a tablet or phone. As it is right now their app is pretty bad (besides the awful units asking me to add 8oz of hops for each addition, I'm missing timers for those additions...can't use it anymore), but I'm hoping maybe they are making an entire new one for their new controller and will be better. If not, I'll just hook up an Arduino and SSR and have a rock solid mash temp, and a fully programmable controller for steps and boil.
I have a feeling the boil is limited by temp as well, as if full wattage was on all the time it may take a while to get up to temp, but it certainly should boil much harder and even tend to over-boil. Don't get me wrong, I like it as is, but just pointing out (confirmed if I use another controller).
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
Pantherjon
Well-Known Member
The hole is 1.5" in diameter...
Thank you very much Jon!
elproducto
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't suggest boiling with the lid on, unless you like a mess.
KingBrianI
Well-Known Member
Have you guys read that "low oxygen brewing" article that the german brewing forum put out? I've decided to try to put some of their recommendations into practice on my next grainfather batch and wanted to see if any of you have attempted similar.
I'll be doing a no sparge mash with 100% of the brewing liquor, preboiling that liquor and adding sodium metabisulfite at the recommended concentration (although I'm a bit unsure of what that should be - they recommend doing no sparge but they list 100 mg/L SMB for the mash liquor and much less for the sparge liquor, so if I do a no-sparge, 100% liquor mash, I'll have a higher SMB concentration than they recommend). I'll also try to do the lauter in such a way that I lift up the malt tube at a rate consistent with the filling of the kettle in order to minimize splashing during this step. But I think that is going to be a pain in the ass since I haven't rigged up any support yet and will have to support the malt tube myself during the lautering process. I may cut that process short and just let it drip, and hope the SMB does its job. One recommendation on their part I will not be taking is to avoid contact with copper, since the counterflow chiller is copper and I'll be using it to bring the mash liquor down from a boil to strike temp prior to the mash, and to do the final chilling of the wort after boil. I'll also not be racking to a keg prior to hitting final gravity, but will take steps to minimize oxygen during the transfer to a keg.
I'll be interested to hear if any of you have tried the suggestions they make and how you went about doing it.
By the way, I'll be brewing a pale ale, not a helles as the article describes.
http://www.germanbrewing.net/docs/Brewing-Bavarian-Helles.pdf
I'll be doing a no sparge mash with 100% of the brewing liquor, preboiling that liquor and adding sodium metabisulfite at the recommended concentration (although I'm a bit unsure of what that should be - they recommend doing no sparge but they list 100 mg/L SMB for the mash liquor and much less for the sparge liquor, so if I do a no-sparge, 100% liquor mash, I'll have a higher SMB concentration than they recommend). I'll also try to do the lauter in such a way that I lift up the malt tube at a rate consistent with the filling of the kettle in order to minimize splashing during this step. But I think that is going to be a pain in the ass since I haven't rigged up any support yet and will have to support the malt tube myself during the lautering process. I may cut that process short and just let it drip, and hope the SMB does its job. One recommendation on their part I will not be taking is to avoid contact with copper, since the counterflow chiller is copper and I'll be using it to bring the mash liquor down from a boil to strike temp prior to the mash, and to do the final chilling of the wort after boil. I'll also not be racking to a keg prior to hitting final gravity, but will take steps to minimize oxygen during the transfer to a keg.
I'll be interested to hear if any of you have tried the suggestions they make and how you went about doing it.
By the way, I'll be brewing a pale ale, not a helles as the article describes.
http://www.germanbrewing.net/docs/Brewing-Bavarian-Helles.pdf
treacheroustexan
Well-Known Member
Yeah especially if you're going to have the hole blocked by a hop spider.
I read the article, and all I can say for certain is that I really really really want a Shakesbeer device since it seems to combine both my love of literature and beer.
StoutNoDoubt
Well-Known Member
I just got through reprogramming mine to a 1 degree interval versus a 2 degree interval. Also, I'm able to ramp up the max temp to 221 now. We will see how it does on the next brew.
treacheroustexan
Well-Known Member
Just popping back in to say I can't express how much I love my Grainfather. Heating my strike water for a maris otter/galaxy smash. Easy to clean. Easy to brew.
scallopking
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If i may ask, which instructions did you use?
StoutNoDoubt
Well-Known Member
RockyMountainCraftBrewing
Well-Known Member
I could have pitched $30,000 to get exclusive Grainfather distribution in Canada.I wish I had done so.I dont know if $30,000 would have done it but I think it would have as that is a major show of support.
RMCB
Brewmasher
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I tried this yesterday with a full 20lb grain bill. I emptied and rinsed the basket, put both screens on the bottom and lowered in the boil. It did not boil over along the side, although as the bottom screens accumulated gunk, it got harrowing close. I don't think I will do this again. It did catch a lot of trub, but a lot got under it too. It's not really worth the extra cleaning effort.
I mashed in at 140, set the control to 156, and just let the mash heating coil slowly bring the temp up. It only made it up to 152 in an hour and the conversion was complete. I pumped the wort into a kettle and put on the stove to boil. I then added 1/2 of the sparge water and recirculated until it reached 168. I lifted the basket, set to boil, and sparged with the remaining sparge water. I lifted the basket and poured in the already boiling first runnings. I was about a 1/2 gallon shy, so I replaced the basket and topped it off. By the time I emptied and rinsed out the basket, the full 8 gallon capacity was boiling.
I got a 58% efficiency and 7.5 gallons of 1.057 wort in the fermentor. I don't know if this is any better than the "standard" sparging method. My first 2 batches were with 3 year old grain which didn't fair too well.
treacheroustexan
Well-Known Member
Any tips for the CFC? I never usually have a problem with it, but yesterday when I was chilling I couldn't get the water cold enough without it leaking everywhere all over my counter. It has to be the way I have it assembled but I always leave it assembled.
StoutNoDoubt
Well-Known Member
Where is it leaking from? The T connectors or the hose connection? Need more clarification or make a YouTube vid
elreplica
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking the quick answer would be no...the guys who got distribution rights from iMake are from NS...a chain called Noble Grape. They've got fairly deep pockets and also control Festa distribution. By and large, a good business to deal with.
lewandowski46
Well-Known Member
I added a single layer of Infrastop to the GF this weekend, surprised at the difference it made.
Prior to the insulation, the temp would bounce back and forth between 211 and 212 and the boil was a gentle roll.
After install of the jacket ramp times were noticeably quicker and the boil was a harder roll while the temp stayed locked at 212 the whole 90min boil.
Template from this thread was spot on, the only change I made was keeping the flap of material attached that goes into the gap between the sidewall and control panel instead of having the 6x4 hole. Helps hold it on there a bit better too.
Action shots of the Kölsch we brewed after dough in.
View attachment 1467056982392.jpg
Prior to the insulation, the temp would bounce back and forth between 211 and 212 and the boil was a gentle roll.
After install of the jacket ramp times were noticeably quicker and the boil was a harder roll while the temp stayed locked at 212 the whole 90min boil.
Template from this thread was spot on, the only change I made was keeping the flap of material attached that goes into the gap between the sidewall and control panel instead of having the 6x4 hole. Helps hold it on there a bit better too.
Action shots of the Kölsch we brewed after dough in.
View attachment 1467056982392.jpg
doogster
Well-Known Member
Are Infrastop and Reflectix the same thing?
doogster
Well-Known Member
WE DONT NEED NO STINKING HOP BAGS / SPIDERS!!!
Just did a clone of The Brew Kettle's White Rajah... threw about 8 oz of hop pellets straight into the boil... no bags, no spider... NO PROBLEM!
The standard GF filter did a great job.... there was quite a hunk of hops surrounding that thing when I was done transferring to the fermentor - those hops created a nice filter as well. The flow rate never slowed, I had no clogs, nothing in the spring/ball valve, and the chiller took me down to 71 degrees (not bad considering summer water temps).
My last batch had about 6 oz of hops... same great performance.
No bags or spiders for me. YMMV
Loving the Grainfather.
Just did a clone of The Brew Kettle's White Rajah... threw about 8 oz of hop pellets straight into the boil... no bags, no spider... NO PROBLEM!
The standard GF filter did a great job.... there was quite a hunk of hops surrounding that thing when I was done transferring to the fermentor - those hops created a nice filter as well. The flow rate never slowed, I had no clogs, nothing in the spring/ball valve, and the chiller took me down to 71 degrees (not bad considering summer water temps).
My last batch had about 6 oz of hops... same great performance.
No bags or spiders for me. YMMV
Loving the Grainfather.
lewandowski46
Well-Known Member
I appears to be similar. Couple layers of bubble wrap with layers of foil inbetween. I did the infrastop because it was cheaper than the reflectix on Amazon.
Both appear to be made in America as well, can't find anything to show they are made overseas.
lewandowski46
Well-Known Member
Same here, I haven't used a single hop spider/bag yet and have no clogging issues. I even tilt mine to the side to draw as much wort off the bottom as possible.
I normally do not use spiders or bags with pellets but do with leaf. I've had no clogs or problems at all.
But I recently "tested" a spider, one of those conical shaped SS mesh basket type, to see how it worked/fit the GF. An ideal fit, especially if you take the lid and use it to hold the spider in place.
But the thing is as deep as the GF almost and I ended up knocking the filter off so it was a good thing I had the spider....I guess....kind of a chicken/egg situation
But I recently "tested" a spider, one of those conical shaped SS mesh basket type, to see how it worked/fit the GF. An ideal fit, especially if you take the lid and use it to hold the spider in place.
But the thing is as deep as the GF almost and I ended up knocking the filter off so it was a good thing I had the spider....I guess....kind of a chicken/egg situation
GamecockBrewer
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I've been thinking about moving to electric brewing for awhile and will probably end up purchasing a Grainfather. I do have a question about ventilation for those of you using a Grainfather indoors. Is there enough steam in a 60 or 90 minute boil that you need to have some kind of ventilation set up? If so, how are you guys handling it?
treacheroustexan
Well-Known Member
I brew beside my stove and the fan seems to be just fine for the 60 minute boil.
