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Grainfather!!

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So I just did an immersion chiller test on 4 gallons of boiling water in the Grainfather and here's the results, if anyone is interested:

Well, mixed feeling about the results here. It cooled like a bat outta hell down to below 140 degrees F, but once it got down to around 80F it was slow as hell. Here's the results, starting at boiling at 4:30PM. Tap water is around 65F:

200*: 4:31 pm
170*: 4:32 pm
140*: 4:34 pm
100*: 4:38 pm
80*: 4:42 pm
74*: 4:45 pm

I stopped the test there as didn't want to keep wasting water. Total time to get 4 gallons of water from boiling to 74* was 15 minutes.

Verdict: I think I will cool using this from now on. It may take a little longer and use a bit more water (which I'll collect for cleaning), but it's so much easier and sanitary. If I daisy-chained another IC in an ice bath, I have no doubt I could cool the entire batch in less than ten minutes. The only pain in the ass I foresee is when I add my whirlpool additions below 170 degrees. May just have to pull the IC out and put in starsan bucket, throw the hops in, cover, then put the IC back in when steeping period is over. What do you guys think?
 
Use one IC with quick disconnects. Sanitize it by boiling it. Then turn on ground water until down to 90 ish. Then switch hoses to an ice water bath, fed by an inexpensive fountain pump. You can get it as cool as you need to pitch (~65 degrees). No need for another IC or sanitizing it - the QD's make life very easy.

Also, if you want to hopstand, chill a bit then turn the ground water off. Dump your hops and hold temp or turn ground water back on and continue chilling.
 
I'm guessing the reason to go the IC route is fear of sanitary chiller? I'm ok with the 10 min run boil thru chiller to sanitize method along with a good cleaning at the end. Have you encountered issues with keeping the CFC clean? I like the CFC better than the IC. Neater and just as quick, and WAY easier (no moving the IC around to keep contact with hot wort).
 
Use one IC with quick disconnects. Sanitize it by boiling it. Then turn on ground water until down to 90 ish. Then switch hoses to an ice water bath, fed by an inexpensive fountain pump. You can get it as cool as you need to pitch (~65 degrees). No need for another IC or sanitizing it - the QD's make life very easy.

Also, if you want to hopstand, chill a bit then turn the ground water off. Dump your hops and hold temp or turn ground water back on and continue chilling.

That's exactly what I used to do! Was easy and quick enough but you still had to babysit it and work it. Plus you then still had to dump the BK into fermenter. I like the CFC going right into my conical. Easy.
 
Well, I agree there. Just saying to aghenender if using IC he could do it easily with the one.

Yeah, no. No question one pass CFC is mo' betta, IMO.

:off: love the Viszla avatar! Had to put my 14yo down last summer. She was a great dog and will get another one some day.
 
Doing a Maibock today. Grainfather brew #2 for me. God, it's so relaxed. Measured and ground my grains while the mash was heating. After dough in, turned on the recirculation pump and walked away. Inside having a leisurely lunch of bratwurst, hash browns, spiced rum cake, and espresso. In about an hour, gonna go back out and leisurely start my sparge. Can I throw in the words leisurely and relaxed again? :) Going to sip and enjoy a glass of Saison while boiling. Does it get any better than this?
 
My first brew wasn't smooth. The heating element didn't boil the wort because of the protection mechanism was triggered. There was burnt wort at the bottom of the GrainFather, which might result in high temperature to trigger the break.
I think it is because the gravity of the wort was a little higher (it was Belgian Tripel), and I might put the heating element in NORMAL position instead of MASH to speed heating.

Although I was successful for my second brew, I now run into another issue. the temperature control unit, which is a ETC-512B, shows OFF and temperature reading intermittently. It seems like to be in OFF status and doesn't control the heating element. The heating element works fine if I control it by put the switch in "Boil" position. I am looking for solution before sending it back.
Thanks in advance.
 
Both issues are foreign to me. For the burnt wort I'd suggest you scrape the bottom as suggested by GF. But that triggered a shut off of the element seems surprising unless one huge cake of burnt wort there! So it boiled fine the next time? I'd call GF on the 2nd issue (that's a problem) and mention the first. A swap out of controllers seems in order. I've run 3 batches thru with no issues. Good luck!
 
Hey GF crew, I've read a thread regarding recirculation here:



https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=568738&page=3



and am sharing to see if anyone has considered or completed a no sparge with the GF. Sure no sparge with the GF will not save time (sparge while getting to a boil) but holding a more constant sparge temp could produce a more consistent beer. During the slow sparge method of the GF (unlike a batch sparge where you add water all at once) the temp will begin to drop, without some control. I've planned a direct gravity feed to sparge with a HLT on a small elevated hot plate to hold temps, but thinking about no sparge too. It may be all academic, but curious if anyone has thought about:



1) No sparge with GF- and if so, have you tried it, how much volume and how did it go?

2) How do you hold temp in your HLT while you sparge, likely for 20+ min, right? Or you just let it roll? (as I did and it wasn't too far off)



I brewed a "Tiny" by weyerbacher clone. no sparge was used due to the massive grain bill (3 gallon batch, using 6 gallons of strike water). Got 65% mash eff with no issues using rice hulls.

I also brewed a normal pale ale without a sparge (laziness) and got 76% eff, but with a very fine crush that stuck the mash. If I used rice hulls it may of helped. I'm guessing for a normal brew with a normal crush, you can figure on 70-73% eff not using a sparge. However, remember your mash will be thinner, similar to a eBIAB setup.
 
Both issues are foreign to me. For the burnt wort I'd suggest you scrape the bottom as suggested by GF. But that triggered a shut off of the element seems surprising unless one huge cake of burnt wort there! So it boiled fine the next time? I'd call GF on the 2nd issue (that's a problem) and mention the first. A swap out of controllers seems in order. I've run 3 batches thru with no issues. Good luck!

I used PBW, and the burt wort fell off in a strip shape. I then realized that the burnt wort might be the cause of element shutting off.
I've called GF on the second issue, sending it back is their suggestion. I am looking for help so that I can use it in a short time.
 
Ggt started a bit late but no big deal.I am doing an amber ale today recipe for the mad scientist method is as follows.

7 pounds pale ale
1 pound crystal 60
1 pound honey malt
1.5 pounds carastan

For hops
1 ounce warrior for 60
1 ounce chinook for 30
1 ounce falconers flight for 15 with another ounce at flame out.

Safale US-05 whipped up on the stir plate.

RMCB
 
Doing a Maibock today. Grainfather brew #2 for me. God, it's so relaxed. Measured and ground my grains while the mash was heating. After dough in, turned on the recirculation pump and walked away. Inside having a leisurely lunch of bratwurst, hash browns, spiced rum cake, and espresso. In about an hour, gonna go back out and leisurely start my sparge. Can I throw in the words leisurely and relaxed again? :) Going to sip and enjoy a glass of Saison while boiling. Does it get any better than this?

Yeah it really is a very simple system. Set and forget - for a little while anyhow. :)

The relatively slow heating times are a blessing in disguise IMO because you have plenty of time to do things like getting the grains, hops, fermenter, yeast etc ready!
 
I used PBW, and the burt wort fell off in a strip shape. I then realized that the burnt wort might be the cause of element shutting off.
I've called GF on the second issue, sending it back is their suggestion. I am looking for help so that I can use it in a short time.

I should've said scrapping during the hot break to avoid the burning wort, not to clean it! :) if you're just returning the controller you might be able to direct plug the element in as well as the pump when needed? Otherwise you will need patience until it's returned. (Got nuttin else for ya).
 
Haven't really done any research on this but kinda love watching videos of people brewing with this. Is this suitable for use in an apartment? I know nothing about electricity haha. It just sucks having to have a place in a small apartment to store a big 10 gallon megapot, 5 gallons pots for sparge/mash water, mash tun, a chiller, etc. I feel like with this I could store everything a lot easier, and when we buy a house in a few years I would already have a good majority of my electric basement brewery complete haha.
 
Yeah the chiller and "mash tun" just go in the main boiler. Its a genius system for simplicity i believe.

It should work fine in an apartment. Of course you still need a pot for sparge water, unless you do a no sparge full volume mash - which i've been thinking about for small batchs.
 
Is it possible to boil 6-6.5 gallons?

No problem IME. However, it probably won't be what your used to with a propane burner.

I made 2 batchs so far and they are easily the best homebrew i ever made. I only have brewed 3 AG batches - the other was stovetop BIAB.

For more context i done at least a few dozen DME, crystal and hop boils with an aluminum pot and propane burner. Maybe 2 or 3 batchs compared to my 2 GF batchs.
 
No problem IME. However, it probably won't be what your used to with a propane burner.

I made 2 batchs so far and they are easily the best homebrew i ever made. I only have brewed 3 AG batches - the other was stovetop BIAB.

For more context i done at least a few dozen DME, crystal and hop boils with an aluminum pot and propane burner. Maybe 2 or 3 batchs compared to my 2 GF batchs.

I boil 6.5 gallons on my gas stove so it's not very vigorous anyways. I'm just tired of lifting a 10 gallon pot of hot wort and putting it on my burner. Going to throw my back out soon :p Highly, highly considering this.
 
I boil 6.5 gallons on my gas stove so it's not very vigorous anyways. I'm just tired of lifting a 10 gallon pot of hot wort and putting it on my burner. Going to throw my back out soon :p Highly, highly considering this.

Thats another sweet thing about the GF you just use the pump to get the wort in the fermenter!

I plan on trying to max out the GF this week - i was going to brew something around 1.090 but then i'm going to dilute it down to 1.050. I think i'll get close to 10 gallons.
 
Is this suitable for use in an apartment?

IMO the GF is the most ideal solution for an apartment. 110v = you can plug it in in your kitchen. Very compact all-in-one unit = easy to lift, move and store. I really can't think of a way it could be improved upon for that situation.
 
IMO the GF is the most ideal solution for an apartment. 110v = you can plug it in in your kitchen. Very compact all-in-one unit = easy to lift, move and store. I really can't think of a way it could be improved upon for that situation.

Just what I wanted to hear. Thanks! Any other thoughts or opinions are appreciated. I may have to start saving or just say eff it and put it on the plastic..
 
Can anyone tell me how long the power cord is?

You're getting great advice here from these guys. Power cord is 5' long and comes out of controller about 1.5' off floor, so you may be able to get to an outlet on counter top.

This is absolutely the answer for an apt brewer! Add to all that, its a fine looking machine too. I added reflectix to assist in the boil, as you consider that the boiler is not super thick (certainly quality and fine enough) so the heat will dissipate easily. I first put pipe insulation (cut lengthwise in half) butt end to end (taped to itself, not to GF) on the GF in 3 spots, bottom, top, middle; then put two separate wraps of reflectix over top with command strips (Velcro) to hold together- wraps did not end at same place for better insulation. I think with the air space it adds to the R value. I get a fine boil!

Buy it, buy it now!! I think you will love it! :mug:
 
You're getting great advice here from these guys. Power cord is 5' long and comes out of controller about 1.5' off floor, so you may be able to get to an outlet on counter top.

This is absolutely the answer for an apt brewer! Add to all that, its a fine looking machine too. I added reflectix to assist in the boil, as you consider that the boiler is not super thick (certainly quality and fine enough) so the heat will dissipate easily. I first put pipe insulation (cut lengthwise in half) butt end to end (taped to itself, not to GF) on the GF in 3 spots, bottom, top, middle; then put two separate wraps of reflectix over top with command strips (Velcro) to hold together- wraps did not end at same place for better insulation. I think with the air space it adds to the R value. I get a fine boil!

Buy it, buy it now!! I think you will love it! :mug:

You sold me. My only concern is I wont reach my outlet in the counter. One way to find out I guess.
 
Thats another sweet thing about the GF you just use the pump to get the wort in the fermenter!

I plan on trying to max out the GF this week - i was going to brew something around 1.090 but then i'm going to dilute it down to 1.050. I think i'll get close to 10 gallons.

Seabrew, agree on the chiller too. I'm interested in hearing how the high gravity brew goes (how many # of grain? to get to 1.090 for your recipe?). I'm not sure I'd want to "water" it down, but will be interested in what you think. I look forward to hearing your results. I am brewing this weekend, for my brother, and one of my next 3 brews I'm thinking of will be a barley wine. I was thinking in the 4g range if I needed to keep grain bill size down, though maybe 18-18.5# should be fine for 5, I haven't looked into it yet.

I had one of my Golden Promise Mosaic smash I made after one week in the bottle. One fine beer, and surprising given its age. Looking forward to it this weekend, as well as when my Black Out Vanilla Stout is done (will age on bourbon soaked vanilla beans, a first for me) :)
 
If you put it right up against the counter, you shouldn't have a problem. Also, although some might advise against it, you can also use the shortest, heaviest-Guage extension cord you can find and be OK, too. Look for a "power tool " extension cord which are usually the heaviest duty available.
 
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