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How's everyone cleaning the grain out of the pipe? I just dumoed mine and of course the bottom screen dumps along with it. Worried about maybe damaging it in the future.

Also, I have a HELL of a time getting the bottom screen in without knocking the seal off. It takes me at least 6 tries each time. Last brew about ten. I've tried everything I have read and seen up to this point and it still slips off at some point or other. Just wondering if anyone found a easier way. My screen is a little warped but I would assume they all are that way due to thickness.

One last thing, are the US versions supposed to read HH and beep when they hit boil? I'm thinking not but thought I'd ask.
 
I water down the bottom screen, seal and inside of the tun completely from top to bottom. I then put the seal on the screen and put it in at an angle slightly and move it towards the bottom angled all the way down. Once at the bottom I straighten it out and push down. Sometimes the seal will creep up a little bit but just by lifting a very small amount can put it back in place and push down again. I turn it over to check the seal is right at the bottom. in the beginning I had issue with it but watering it all down it is a snap now.
 
US version doesn't beep or read HH. My plate is warped (concave) as well, I don't know for sure if one way is easier than the other.

I have as much trouble as you getting the bottom plate in. I've heard someone recommend spraying some star San mixture on it. I think I'm gonna try that next time, it seems pretty slick.
 
Well since we are the GF family i figured i'd post my Irish Red Ale recipe for ideas!

Red ale was actually the first "craft beer" i ever tasted - about 5 or 6 years ago - and i realized beer can actually taste great! Not just a means to an end.

Anyhow, the beer i drank was called "Fighting Irish Red Ale" in St. Johns, Newfoundland. In a small brewpub called yellowbelly.

The brewmaster was kind enough to give me the basic recipe. However, i don't have any of the same hops! haha

This is what i'm thinking: Ingredients very limited.

5lbs 2 row
2lbs MO
1lb Crystal 80L
2oz Roasted Barley

Boil 1oz Williamette for 45min and 0.25oz for 5min.

Mash water and spage with the small batch GF calulator for 4 gallions in the bucket.
 
I bought the 6"x14" 300 micron mesh. I use it for hops, Irish moss, and spices. It keeps the pump screen clean. It's also faster and easier to clean instead of the nylon hop bags.
 
I water down the bottom screen, seal and inside of the tun completely from top to bottom. I then put the seal on the screen and put it in at an angle slightly and move it towards the bottom angled all the way down. Once at the bottom I straighten it out and push down. Sometimes the seal will creep up a little bit but just by lifting a very small amount can put it back in place and push down again. I turn it over to check the seal is right at the bottom. in the beginning I had issue with it but watering it all down it is a snap now.

I do the same. Interesting too, I was curious if folks were taking that apart each brew. I dumped my grain, after scooping out about half, and the bottom plate held firm, so I figured a good cleanup and good to go.
 
Anyone here use an IC instead of the provided CFC? I'm tempted to try it as lots of people are hyping up a recirculating IC these days. It seems so much easier, and you could use a basic IC with the grainfather pump providing the whirpool/recirc. Would be nice for me as I'm going to be doing a lot of flameout hops and hopstands at 170F, so I wouldn't need to have the top on with the CFC sitting on it.

I will say this, my CFC cools my wort to pitching temp very very quickly. It's just more work it seems.
 
I thought the same thing! That's 12.5% of Crystal, I think keeping closer to 5% would be a better decision.

Thanks for that! I thought it was %11 i will reduce it to 14oz. Thats what the brewmaster gave me. Like i said - it was the first craft beer i tasted and i went "wow".

Grain Bill
%88 a blend of MO, 2 row, Superior Pale
%11 Dark Crystal
%1 Roasted Barley

He recommended i up the Roasted Barley to %1.5.
IBU: 35

Its pretty simple but he uses 3 hops: Nugget, Goldings - both sold out - and fuggles. :(

So i guess i'm asking more about the hops: I'm thinking now.

0.75oz williamette 60min, 0.25oz 15min and about 1/2 oz i had in my fridge for a few months at flameout?
 
Anyone here use an IC instead of the provided CFC? I'm tempted to try it as lots of people are hyping up a recirculating IC these days. It seems so much easier, and you could use a basic IC with the grainfather pump providing the whirpool/recirc. Would be nice for me as I'm going to be doing a lot of flameout hops and hopstands at 170F, so I wouldn't need to have the top on with the CFC sitting on it.



I will say this, my CFC cools my wort to pitching temp very very quickly. It's just more work it seems.


You could always put the CFC on a small table next to the GF then you wouldn't need the lid on.
I am not sure how an IC is easier then CFC. It still needs to be cleaned afterwards to remove break and hops.
 
You could always put the CFC on a small table next to the GF then you wouldn't need the lid on.
I am not sure how an IC is easier then CFC. It still needs to be cleaned afterwards to remove break and hops.


I'm with you. I had my CFC on a stool next to my GF. I can't see any way that an IC would be better.
 
You could always put the CFC on a small table next to the GF then you wouldn't need the lid on.
I am not sure how an IC is easier then CFC. It still needs to be cleaned afterwards to remove break and hops.

I dont see any upside to using an IC instead of the CFC.In fact I see nothing but downside.Will the IC catch on the hop filter?What about the contact with the heating element?Not to mention the added fuss as well as the risk of an infection.

That being said I re-purposed my IC to use with my Grainfather as a pre-chiller.I hook up my kitchen faucet to a washing machine hose and connect it to my IC which sits in one of the sinks in an ice bath.Hook up the cold water inlet to the CFC and run the hot water out to the other sink.Super wicked cooling effeciency to say the least.I will run a timer when I cool down my next batch.

RMCB
 
I use a small pond pump submerged in a cooler full of ice water. Recirculate water back into the cooler. with the CFC I didn't have to add any more ice during the chill.
 
I need to create an IC to cool my tap water for the CFC for summertime brewing. It works well now in PA with 55 degree water but this summer it may be a bit slower. I was wondering if my old Chillzilla would work with the GF for warmer weather chilling.
 
I need to create an IC to cool my tap water for the CFC for summertime brewing. It works well now in PA with 55 degree water but this summer it may be a bit slower. I was wondering if my old Chillzilla would work with the GF for warmer weather chilling.


I don't have a GF but I live in GA so the ground water gets warm in the Summer/Fall. I use a pre-chiller w/ my CFC for chilling and whirlpool.
I initially used a small IC in a bucket of ice water w/ a small pond pump to keep the cold water stirred up.
I changed to a larger pump from HF. I chill & whirlpool w/ ground water as much as possible the connect the pump in a bucket of ice water to get to my pitch temp. I usually need 20 lbs. of ice in the summer. It takes me 20-30 min for a 6 gal batch.
 
Thanks for that! I thought it was %11 i will reduce it to 14oz. Thats what the brewmaster gave me. Like i said - it was the first craft beer i tasted and i went "wow".

Grain Bill
%88 a blend of MO, 2 row, Superior Pale
%11 Dark Crystal
%1 Roasted Barley

He recommended i up the Roasted Barley to %1.5.
IBU: 35

Its pretty simple but he uses 3 hops: Nugget, Goldings - both sold out - and fuggles. :(

So i guess i'm asking more about the hops: I'm thinking now.

0.75oz williamette 60min, 0.25oz 15min and about 1/2 oz i had in my fridge for a few months at flameout?
Maybe you should hold off on brewing this one until you get the hops? And then brew it as close to recipe you got since you really liked that beer (I think Crystal would add more sweetness than I'd like but maybe that is what made you enjoy it). I didn't check a hop sub chart but they're out there! Also I'm beginning to experiment with moving 60 min hops to 30. Like the malt this is for my preference to keep the hop "bite" down, but still get flavor. Others may like a stronger bite, I've lately been wearing thin on that, but do still like IPA's, just working it out. Glad I've got the GF as consistency should be better.

I am planning to brew Biermuncher's Black Pearl Porter (great brew) with a friend for him, minus 1 6-pack!, and I'm still trying to work out a Black Vanilla Bourbon Stout, both this Saturday. Maybe I should post up my recipe for the Stout.
 
I used an aquarium pump on my first batch using tap water. I have a 20 or so foot piece of copper I could rig up for a pre chiller. I will do that. More experimenting needed
 
So wanted my next brew to be "Rapture" RIS, but with a 22+lb grain bill, thats a no go for 5 gallons. Any mobile software thats good for scaling recipes? I know beersmith will do it, but I'd rather not spend $8 if I don't have to.
 
So wanted my next brew to be "Rapture" RIS, but with a 22+lb grain bill, thats a no go for 5 gallons. Any mobile software thats good for scaling recipes? I know beersmith will do it, but I'd rather not spend $8 if I don't have to.


Really? With all we put into this hobby, a quality tool like that is worth much more that a few bucks. That said, I don't think BS mobile does scaling. The desktop app does.
 
So wanted my next brew to be "Rapture" RIS, but with a 22+lb grain bill, thats a no go for 5 gallons. Any mobile software thats good for scaling recipes? I know beersmith will do it, but I'd rather not spend $8 if I don't have to.

Why not just cut back on the base malt enough to fit in the GF and then add back DME during the boil to get back to the desired OG?
 
Has anyone just used the standard method of heating the strike water over 10 degrees or so before doughing in?

Since my first brew hovered around 64-65 for close to 10min lastime i might try it - i could switch to full heating power also.

My reasoning is that notty is ripping through my wort from 1.056 to 1.009 in 7 days! I hope its not to dry.

Notty will be my main yeast for a while until i get more comfortable with harvesting yeast - then i will venture into wyyeast maybe.
 
So wanted my next brew to be "Rapture" RIS, but with a 22+lb grain bill, thats a no go for 5 gallons. Any mobile software thats good for scaling recipes? I know beersmith will do it, but I'd rather not spend $8 if I don't have to.

Brewer's Friend. I use this, for the recipe, yeast & water adjustments. I used to use Brew365 for water calc, but well, don't really need that right now!
 
Has anyone just used the standard method of heating the strike water over 10 degrees or so before doughing in?

Since my first brew hovered around 64-65 for close to 10min lastime i might try it - i could switch to full heating power also.

My reasoning is that notty is ripping through my wort from 1.056 to 1.009 in 7 days! I hope its not to dry.

Notty will be my main yeast for a while until i get more comfortable with harvesting yeast - then i will venture into wyyeast maybe.

Yes, that's exactly what I did- +8 I think I went. It worked well, until I realized I forgot to put in the grain basket. Doh! :eek: I WON'T do that again!

I use a conical, so harvesting is very easy. I'm now almost exclusively pitching not only harvested yeast, but slurry. If you ferment in a bucket, a very easy way to harvest yeast is to make a starter (stir plate build is <$20), overbuild that starter about 100B cells (I use Brewer's Friend calculator) and before pitching "harvest" that % of the overbuild- ex. software calls for 200B cells, build it up to 300B, say at 1500ml, harvest 500ml, pitch 1000ml). Presto you know have a harvest equal to a fresh Wyeast smack pack. Easy peasy.
 
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Hey GF crew, I've read a thread regarding recirculation here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=568738&page=3

and am sharing to see if anyone has considered or completed a no sparge with the GF. Sure no sparge with the GF will not save time (sparge while getting to a boil) but holding a more constant sparge temp could produce a more consistent beer. During the slow sparge method of the GF (unlike a batch sparge where you add water all at once) the temp will begin to drop, without some control. I've planned a direct gravity feed to sparge with a HLT on a small elevated hot plate to hold temps, but thinking about no sparge too. It may be all academic, but curious if anyone has thought about:

1) No sparge with GF- and if so, have you tried it, how much volume and how did it go?
2) How do you hold temp in your HLT while you sparge, likely for 20+ min, right? Or you just let it roll? (as I did and it wasn't too far off)
 
... I can't think of a single reason to do a no-sparge with the GF. It would lower efficiency with no benefit (that I can think of).

If you are concerned about loss of temperature, then heat up your sparge water more?
 
I've thought about a full volume, no sparge with the gf. I think you'd need to reduce the batch size to get enough liquor in the mash to make it work. Or just brew a low gravity beer. I'll try it out one day and report back. Maybe this weekend.
 
... I can't think of a single reason to do a no-sparge with the GF. It would lower efficiency with no benefit (that I can think of).

If you are concerned about loss of temperature, then heat up your sparge water more?

The loss of temp that I am trying to avoid can be handled by keeping sparge water warm, but I would not advocate over heating the sparge water. Can pull out tannins.
I may try on a small batch and record efficiency difference. Curious with a thin mash how that may impact efficiency with constant recirc.
 
I've thought about a full volume, no sparge with the gf. I think you'd need to reduce the batch size to get enough liquor in the mash to make it work. Or just brew a low gravity beer. I'll try it out one day and report back. Maybe this weekend.

Would be interested in your results, and comparisons on efficiency. I think it might shorten the boil time- with covered lid v grain basket. Maybe not by much
 
Yes, that's exactly what I did- +8 I think I went. It worked well, until I realized I forgot to put in the grain basket. Doh! :eek: I WON'T do that again!

I use a conical, so harvesting is very easy. I'm now almost exclusively pitching not only harvested yeast, but slurry. If you ferment in a bucket, a very easy way to harvest yeast is to make a starter (stir plate build is <$20), overbuild that starter about 100B cells (I use Brewer's Friend calculator) and before pitching "harvest" that % of the overbuild- ex. software calls for 200B cells, build it up to 300B, say at 1500ml, harvest 500ml, pitch 1000ml). Presto you know have a harvest equal to a fresh Wyeast smack pack. Easy peasy.

Yeah i have to learn how to harvest yeast - right now i just leave a bit of beer in the bucket and swirl the yeast and pour it into a small demi john. Simple for me right now.
 
Yeah i have to learn how to harvest yeast - right now i just leave a bit of beer in the bucket and swirl the yeast and pour it into a small demi john. Simple for me right now.

So you are harvesting then? You reuse that yeast you capture, it's same thing! No magic to it, I didn't when I used buckets but your approach should be fine.
 
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