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I need to create an IC to cool my tap water for the CFC for summertime brewing. It works well now in PA with 55 degree water but this summer it may be a bit slower. I was wondering if my old Chillzilla would work with the GF for warmer weather chilling.


I don't have a GF but I live in GA so the ground water gets warm in the Summer/Fall. I use a pre-chiller w/ my CFC for chilling and whirlpool.
I initially used a small IC in a bucket of ice water w/ a small pond pump to keep the cold water stirred up.
I changed to a larger pump from HF. I chill & whirlpool w/ ground water as much as possible the connect the pump in a bucket of ice water to get to my pitch temp. I usually need 20 lbs. of ice in the summer. It takes me 20-30 min for a 6 gal batch.
 
Thanks for that! I thought it was %11 i will reduce it to 14oz. Thats what the brewmaster gave me. Like i said - it was the first craft beer i tasted and i went "wow".

Grain Bill
%88 a blend of MO, 2 row, Superior Pale
%11 Dark Crystal
%1 Roasted Barley

He recommended i up the Roasted Barley to %1.5.
IBU: 35

Its pretty simple but he uses 3 hops: Nugget, Goldings - both sold out - and fuggles. :(

So i guess i'm asking more about the hops: I'm thinking now.

0.75oz williamette 60min, 0.25oz 15min and about 1/2 oz i had in my fridge for a few months at flameout?
Maybe you should hold off on brewing this one until you get the hops? And then brew it as close to recipe you got since you really liked that beer (I think Crystal would add more sweetness than I'd like but maybe that is what made you enjoy it). I didn't check a hop sub chart but they're out there! Also I'm beginning to experiment with moving 60 min hops to 30. Like the malt this is for my preference to keep the hop "bite" down, but still get flavor. Others may like a stronger bite, I've lately been wearing thin on that, but do still like IPA's, just working it out. Glad I've got the GF as consistency should be better.

I am planning to brew Biermuncher's Black Pearl Porter (great brew) with a friend for him, minus 1 6-pack!, and I'm still trying to work out a Black Vanilla Bourbon Stout, both this Saturday. Maybe I should post up my recipe for the Stout.
 
I used an aquarium pump on my first batch using tap water. I have a 20 or so foot piece of copper I could rig up for a pre chiller. I will do that. More experimenting needed
 
So wanted my next brew to be "Rapture" RIS, but with a 22+lb grain bill, thats a no go for 5 gallons. Any mobile software thats good for scaling recipes? I know beersmith will do it, but I'd rather not spend $8 if I don't have to.
 
So wanted my next brew to be "Rapture" RIS, but with a 22+lb grain bill, thats a no go for 5 gallons. Any mobile software thats good for scaling recipes? I know beersmith will do it, but I'd rather not spend $8 if I don't have to.


Really? With all we put into this hobby, a quality tool like that is worth much more that a few bucks. That said, I don't think BS mobile does scaling. The desktop app does.
 
So wanted my next brew to be "Rapture" RIS, but with a 22+lb grain bill, thats a no go for 5 gallons. Any mobile software thats good for scaling recipes? I know beersmith will do it, but I'd rather not spend $8 if I don't have to.

Why not just cut back on the base malt enough to fit in the GF and then add back DME during the boil to get back to the desired OG?
 
Has anyone just used the standard method of heating the strike water over 10 degrees or so before doughing in?

Since my first brew hovered around 64-65 for close to 10min lastime i might try it - i could switch to full heating power also.

My reasoning is that notty is ripping through my wort from 1.056 to 1.009 in 7 days! I hope its not to dry.

Notty will be my main yeast for a while until i get more comfortable with harvesting yeast - then i will venture into wyyeast maybe.
 
So wanted my next brew to be "Rapture" RIS, but with a 22+lb grain bill, thats a no go for 5 gallons. Any mobile software thats good for scaling recipes? I know beersmith will do it, but I'd rather not spend $8 if I don't have to.

Brewer's Friend. I use this, for the recipe, yeast & water adjustments. I used to use Brew365 for water calc, but well, don't really need that right now!
 
Has anyone just used the standard method of heating the strike water over 10 degrees or so before doughing in?

Since my first brew hovered around 64-65 for close to 10min lastime i might try it - i could switch to full heating power also.

My reasoning is that notty is ripping through my wort from 1.056 to 1.009 in 7 days! I hope its not to dry.

Notty will be my main yeast for a while until i get more comfortable with harvesting yeast - then i will venture into wyyeast maybe.

Yes, that's exactly what I did- +8 I think I went. It worked well, until I realized I forgot to put in the grain basket. Doh! :eek: I WON'T do that again!

I use a conical, so harvesting is very easy. I'm now almost exclusively pitching not only harvested yeast, but slurry. If you ferment in a bucket, a very easy way to harvest yeast is to make a starter (stir plate build is <$20), overbuild that starter about 100B cells (I use Brewer's Friend calculator) and before pitching "harvest" that % of the overbuild- ex. software calls for 200B cells, build it up to 300B, say at 1500ml, harvest 500ml, pitch 1000ml). Presto you know have a harvest equal to a fresh Wyeast smack pack. Easy peasy.
 
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Hey GF crew, I've read a thread regarding recirculation here:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=568738&page=3

and am sharing to see if anyone has considered or completed a no sparge with the GF. Sure no sparge with the GF will not save time (sparge while getting to a boil) but holding a more constant sparge temp could produce a more consistent beer. During the slow sparge method of the GF (unlike a batch sparge where you add water all at once) the temp will begin to drop, without some control. I've planned a direct gravity feed to sparge with a HLT on a small elevated hot plate to hold temps, but thinking about no sparge too. It may be all academic, but curious if anyone has thought about:

1) No sparge with GF- and if so, have you tried it, how much volume and how did it go?
2) How do you hold temp in your HLT while you sparge, likely for 20+ min, right? Or you just let it roll? (as I did and it wasn't too far off)
 
... I can't think of a single reason to do a no-sparge with the GF. It would lower efficiency with no benefit (that I can think of).

If you are concerned about loss of temperature, then heat up your sparge water more?
 
I've thought about a full volume, no sparge with the gf. I think you'd need to reduce the batch size to get enough liquor in the mash to make it work. Or just brew a low gravity beer. I'll try it out one day and report back. Maybe this weekend.
 
... I can't think of a single reason to do a no-sparge with the GF. It would lower efficiency with no benefit (that I can think of).

If you are concerned about loss of temperature, then heat up your sparge water more?

The loss of temp that I am trying to avoid can be handled by keeping sparge water warm, but I would not advocate over heating the sparge water. Can pull out tannins.
I may try on a small batch and record efficiency difference. Curious with a thin mash how that may impact efficiency with constant recirc.
 
I've thought about a full volume, no sparge with the gf. I think you'd need to reduce the batch size to get enough liquor in the mash to make it work. Or just brew a low gravity beer. I'll try it out one day and report back. Maybe this weekend.

Would be interested in your results, and comparisons on efficiency. I think it might shorten the boil time- with covered lid v grain basket. Maybe not by much
 
Yes, that's exactly what I did- +8 I think I went. It worked well, until I realized I forgot to put in the grain basket. Doh! :eek: I WON'T do that again!

I use a conical, so harvesting is very easy. I'm now almost exclusively pitching not only harvested yeast, but slurry. If you ferment in a bucket, a very easy way to harvest yeast is to make a starter (stir plate build is <$20), overbuild that starter about 100B cells (I use Brewer's Friend calculator) and before pitching "harvest" that % of the overbuild- ex. software calls for 200B cells, build it up to 300B, say at 1500ml, harvest 500ml, pitch 1000ml). Presto you know have a harvest equal to a fresh Wyeast smack pack. Easy peasy.

Yeah i have to learn how to harvest yeast - right now i just leave a bit of beer in the bucket and swirl the yeast and pour it into a small demi john. Simple for me right now.
 
Yeah i have to learn how to harvest yeast - right now i just leave a bit of beer in the bucket and swirl the yeast and pour it into a small demi john. Simple for me right now.

So you are harvesting then? You reuse that yeast you capture, it's same thing! No magic to it, I didn't when I used buckets but your approach should be fine.
 
So you are harvesting then? You reuse that yeast you capture, it's same thing! No magic to it, I didn't when I used buckets but your approach should be fine.

Yep i done it 2 or 3x i guess. Yeah i like buckets more then carboys actually - easier to clean, fill, everything! No more carboys for this guy!
 
Yesterday I brewed two batches on the GF. Easy day, long but easy. I really like the GF. First was for me, a stout I made up and am calling Black Out Vanilla Stout (for now!). Started at 9am, mash @ 155 (I want 154 so +1 on GF- seems to hold best in my exp). Strike at 163- after dough in was 157 so next strike will be +6. Mash out was 175 and by end of sparge, temp was 195, boil 10 min later, and very nice boil. Cool was quick (tap temp was 51). I ran valve open 1/2 way and wort ended at 60! Cooling water out was 66-67, so I plan to dial in with cooling out water 6-7 degrees warmer than desired temp. Done a bit after 1!
Next brew was for a buddy that him and my brother ran with my advice (2 brews completed and I'm directing?! Such is the ease of the GF!). Went very well, enjoyed it and saw some football. Enjoyed home brews while brewing- I never do that!
Good day, now to planning stage for next brew!
 
Yep i done it 2 or 3x i guess. Yeah i like buckets more then carboys actually - easier to clean, fill, everything! No more carboys for this guy!

Yes, if I didn't get a conical last year for Christmas (didn't really need/want anything) I'd stay with buckets. Easy, work well. If I had tried harvesting from buckets I may not have gone the conical route!
 
Mine came in last Friday. This is Sunday night, and I'm brewing my second batch through it (1st one Saturday night I considered a trial run--it didn't come out perfectly, but good enough for 4 gallons of a London pub-type ale kit bought from my LHBS). Tonight's brew is my recipe for a Dusseldorf styled altbier (Zum Scheideweg--I can tell you it is a great beer, but only friends could back me up on the claim lol).

For anyone who is still on the fence for purchasing the GF, I can assure you that if you enjoy working with 5 gallon batches of beer fitting pretty much all sizes of grain bills, you will be just as enamored with the system as I am!
I've been brewing (off and on) since 1992...here is my review:

1. Yes, it is easy to clean;
2. Yes, I wish the electric cord and chiller hoses were longer;
3. No, don't follow the video instructions on the website as they have made some system tweeks--for USA the temp reads in fahrenheit and they changed different parts...it comes with assembly instructions so don't worry;
4. Yes, or No--I didn't buy the 'graincoat' or build a fancy jacket made out of insulation material...I live in Austin, TX and the way it came is fine;
5. Yes, use the water calculations they came up with (this caused me angst at first but dead water is crucial and they know their system, so pay attention to them as I was a gallon short on the first run);
5a. Hey, if you want to do 10 gallons, just do 2 five gallon batches as the system saves you plenty of time;
6. Yes, it makes a roaring boil (okay I put the lid on it...get a damn oven mit for crying out loud);
7. Yes, get a hop blocker for bigger IPAs, etc. and some kind of sparge water arm;
8. No, it is not aesthetically pleasing (my mom was the quintessential mid-western woman--canned her own veggies, milked her own cows, caned her own baskets & outdoor furniture, fished, hunted, brewed, quilted, etc, etc, etc...she would've scoffed this aside like she did microwaves and bread machines, but I think still woud've batted her eye of approval watching me having so much fun brewing with it);
9. YES! The ease of using this equipment lets you focus on brewing and is like having your own manual brewing robot. There are just enough features that let you (not completely) step away from brewing and do other things (my roommate insisted that I do 3 sets of military presses and cook dinner and get drunk and play Forza 5--I had ample time to do them all);
10. Step/temperture mashing: yeah, there are some who will argue decoction for certain styles, but if the Germans had electricity and this state-of-the-art equipment in the 16th century, I'm sure the Reinheitsgebot would've been just as happy with this! Decoction mashing is rewarding, but this thing makes step mashing so simple and my mash efficiency is floating around 89%;

YES!! Buy it. As quickly as we drink every keg of homebrew, we can brew three more to replace it. You will spend much more time brewing, much less time being agravated and always have an ample supply of beer (I'm guessing as I've never brewed more than one batch of beer in a two week period---day two and I'm brewing the 2nd batch)...next is our brew club's Pliny clone, and at some point I plan on taking a vacation in order to ferment Dogfish Head's 120 IPA...among many others...

Well, this is my one GF post, so I hope it is helpful :)
 
I can't agree with number #8 but i love the GF - I rank it the 2nd best money i ever spent(disposal) - eye surgery being number 1.

I really didn't want the hassle of building my own electric system - i wanted to learn about homebrew!
 
I finished up a kettle soured Berliner Weisse in the Grainfather yesterday and was amazed at how simple the process was! Mashed 8lbs of grain, brought it down to 110degrees, pitched uncrushed grain, let sit for a day, checked ph, sparged and boiled! The Grainfather held the temperature at 110 with no effort and allowed the mash to sour beautifully. If you haven't tried doing a Berliner Weisse in your GF, do it! So easy!
 
I have done several batches and varied several things. Here's my observations:

1) Yes an extension cord will impact the boil. (It's physics...proven.) Avoid them if possible and your boil will be more satisfying.
2) While the capacity may be 8 gallons, boils above 7 gallons will not roll without the cover and then they roll to boil over....so you will have to play with the cover on (slightly off is what I do) if you have a large boil or settle for the gentle boil and decrease the boil off....
3) If you turn the pump on and then off after a couple seconds, you prime it and it works quickly on response.
4) Craftmeister tablets work great with recirculated 135F water to clean up. Turn on and come back in an hour or longer.
5) We have found it fairly easy to remove grain from the mash for a decoction mash on an Octobefest by lifting the basket partially out and removing grain with a small scoop....takes two people but it works.

Comments in our store have been nothing but positive! One brewer (who also brews for a local restaurant on a barrel system) dumped all his equipment from propane (sanke kegs, pumps, burners, etc) and swears he will use nothing but this for his personal brewing. It has freed up plenty of time so that he's now slanting yeast instead of cleaning.
 
Yeah I'd disagree w/#8 above as well, even with my reflectix coat its nice looking!

For #3 I'd add the video is helpful if not current, so use along with the written instructions that are current.

We all agree we're a satisfied crew here with this purchase! Now onto my dedicated basement brew area build (with ability to brew outside the basement door when this weather gets better) and, but of course, to the next brew plan.

Cheers! :mug:
 
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