seabrew8
Well-Known Member
the cord is like 5' long
Do you know if anyone has just extended the power plug with the proper wire gage? Duh! i guess the warranty would be void.
the cord is like 5' long
I'm confused: Are you saying theres a garbage disposal, one outlet and a microwave on the same circuit has you GF? Dedicated?
Can anyone tell me the length of the power cord for the GF? I have a 20a outlet just off the panel but its probably 5 feet above the floor. Rather not have to mess with it. I guess i could just lay the GF on something higher...but then comes the sparging and lifting the basket issue...
Do you know if anyone has just extended the power plug with the proper wire gage? Duh! i guess the warranty would be void.
Regarding #4. After mash is complete, switch to boil and begin your sparge. Lift your basket to drain wort. It will take you 30 mins maybe more to sparge. It will take this amount.of time to bring to a boil...maybe longer.Right, I get that, which is what I meant by leave it on until the boil. Though was wondering if at end of sparge (30 min or so) maybe remove and cover if not at boil. Have you done that? Others? Seems quite logical, I leave my kettle cover on when I'm bringing my propane fired kettle up to boil.
When chilling the wort,are you guys running the cooled wort into fermenter after one pass,or are you recirculating it a couple of times?
Your time to strike was similar to mine at 1.76º per minute but from there to the boil was only .85º per minute whereas I was getting about 1.11º/minute.
Did you adjust the red valve during the chilling period? you can raise and lower the temp of the wort coming out of the chiller by opening up or closing off some on the red handle. I've seen several folks get the wort to the temp they want (coming out of the chiller) and then move the hose to fill the fermenter.
This practice will drastically cut down on your chill time since you are not trying to chill the entire 5-6 gallons of wort at one time.
. Awesome, now I want to brew aging and try that out. This is going to save me some time.Do not recirc the wort from the chiller back into the kettle. Complete waste of time and will end up taking longer to cool the wort. After the boil ends, recirc the wort for about 5 to 10 minutes without turning on the cooling water. This sanitizes the inside copper tubing of the chiller. Once that is done turn the cooling water on while the wort out hose is still in the pot. Restrict the red valve a 1/4 of the way. Put your hand on the wort out hose. Once it starts feeling cool to the touch it's ready to be placed into the fermenter. Close the red valve. Place the wort out hose into the fermenter and then open the valve slowly. Again, do not open it fully. This accomplishes two things. It allows the wort to cool more efficiently and also prevents the pump filter from getting a compacted hops cake which could lead to a clog.
I also do not use any form of hop filter. I just throw it all right into the kettle. And notice how clear this beer is....
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Alright, this does it! I was originally intending to put together a BIAB system for all grain brewing, but now I'm leaning more towards the GrainFather after seeing all the post from people who are already using the system.
Whoo Hoo!! GF arrived finally, right before leaving for dinner party, and not damaged this time! I will stop in am at Lowes for reflectix, never left house today while waiting for delivery, then brew. A simple smash I've had thoughts of for some time now. Then onto a Vanilla Stout. No plans for a test run with water. I will post times and how things went.
Nice! I did that at first then ran into clogs. Now I wonder if it was how I was running the chiller and cooling the wort full throttle like I was. What's the most amount of hops that you've used in this practice? Thanks.
Just make sure you run PBW through it as directed and then the fresh water rinse! Good luck with your first brew and take some pictures for us!
2) Video showed a hose clamp for fitting the discharge pipe, this was changed to a small plastic ring. Not sure how I like this, as I'm not entirely sure I have been able to fit the ring over the top roll of the silicone tube. Anyone else have issues on this part?
Ok, I'm out in the garage putting mine together at the moment, and I've figured out what the problem is with the black plastic ring that is supposed to create a water-tight seal on the pump discharge. The plastic ring has two different sides: a thicker side and a thinner side. The thinner side has to face outward (towards the stainless pipe). If it's the other way, it's next to impossible to fit over the outer top role of the silicone tube.