Grainfather!!

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I use the factory setting on my barley crusher and have always gotten around 85% efficiency, higher with GF. I found years ago that grain size didn't effect my efficiency as much as Mash temp and Ph. Use correct temp and water Ph and you will achieve good efficiency.
 
I'm. It an electrician but a 20A breaker in the box is not the same as 20A power at the plug. A 20A plus has a unique socket and doesn't share anything, it's a direct line from the main. So if people have other things on their 20A line, that's probably not a 20A line.

It's a minor nit in most cases, but for those who may be seeing long times to temp, it could be a factor......
 
The water needed for a 90 minute boil took slightly longer to get to a boil. Trying my DIY hop spider for the 1st time. Still a little nervous about the pump clogging. Has anyone tried whole hops yet? I always had good luck on my 10 gallon setup. The seem to act as a filter, but that was with a March pump.
 
Traveling_brewer said:
Well, I think you all have me sold. I've planned on going electric for a while.

One quick question... Anyone considering the still attachment?
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Glad to hear we sold another one on the GF! I too reviewed Kal's Electric Brewery and with my low basement ceilings (under 7') I thought this was a great way to get out of the cold for now! For now my tinkering will be around getting a smaller footprint brewery setup in the basement. Work to do!

I'm interested in the still, need to look at what a permit costs, might be best to go legit.
 
gotbeer74 said:
The water needed for a 90 minute boil took slightly longer to get to a boil. Trying my DIY hop spider for the 1st time. Still a little nervous about the pump clogging. Has anyone tried whole hops yet? I always had good luck on my 10 gallon setup. The seem to act as a filter, but that was with a March pump.
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Not yet with whole hops, I did just purchase some from Hops Direct.

I may return my Hop basket, don't like that it tips into the boil, and I bet I can build a hop spider for <$50 (cost of basket). How did you build yours and how much did it cost, if you don't mind?
 
rawlus said:
I'm. It an electrician but a 20A breaker in the box is not the same as 20A power at the plug. A 20A plus has a unique socket and doesn't share anything, it's a direct line from the main. So if people have other things on their 20A line, that's probably not a 20A line.

It's a minor nit in most cases, but for those who may be seeing long times to temp, it could be a factor......
Click to expand...

Hmm, interesting, I'm not an electrician either. My 20A breaker hits the microwave & hood, the garbage disposal and an outlet. That's it. The garbage disposal is direct wired into the panel. The outlet & micro (likely together as micro is plugged into an outlet in back of cabinet) must also be wired onto this breaker, I haven't checked. I got the line from the disposal (first thru a switch to operate disposal) and installed a 2 gang box with the switch and jumper inside the box to the outlet. A 20A outlet with the funny looking plug, like this -| | and the n at the bottom.

So, it looks like a duck and walks like a duck, but is it a duck?! Plus, I'm thinking at some point I plan to setup a small footprint brewery in basement and will bring the line over to another 20A box with 20A GFCI outlet, next to outside door. Then I can exhaust steam (there is a lot still!) as well as brew outside on nice days, possibly with a short 20A ext cord if all holds.

Q- Do I have a 20 A line in your opinion? I think so, never thought anything different, since it is direct wired. So long as I don't pull any other current while brewing, I expect to be fine. If the micro runs, I'm expecting that the breaker will trip.

I have an electrician friend I will ask this: If/when I go downstairs brewing, I will setup some type of hot plate for sparge water (elevated so I can gravity sparge direct). Can I do this on 15A? Or should I plan to pull from my dryer plug 220V, which I expect will be about 6' away? (would be quicker heating!). And, I'm thinking about a good hot stick or bucket heater to shorten heat up times- love that about propane. Likely want to find one for 15A, maybe 600-1000w.
 
seabrew8 said:
Doesn't the GF people recommend just throwing in the hops for a natural filter?
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Yes, but is there a limit when there is risk of clogging? I haven't heard anyone here who has put in 8-12oz yet. I'd like to not clog up the works even with the filter present, so hop basket/spider seems most sensible to me, and I get a cleaner yeast harvest.
 
Kampenken said:
Yes, but is there a limit when there is risk of clogging? I haven't heard anyone here who has put in 8-12oz yet. I'd like to not clog up the works even with the filter present, so hop basket/spider seems most sensible to me, and I get a cleaner yeast harvest.
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True, i don't like high hop beer that much personally so it probably won't be a big deal for me. 1-3oz hop pellets thats it for me i figure.

I will dabble in the IPA's sometime down the road...
 
Kampenken said:
Not yet with whole hops, I did just purchase some from Hops Direct.



I may return my Hop basket, don't like that it tips into the boil, and I bet I can build a hop spider for <$50 (cost of basket). How did you build yours and how much did it cost, if you don't mind?
Click to expand...


Mine is a simple 4 in pvc pipe with a 5 gallon nylon bag attached. I need to get SS rods if I like how it works.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1451786356.483143.jpg
 
Kampenken said:
Yes, but is there a limit when there is risk of clogging? I haven't heard anyone here who has put in 8-12oz yet. I'd like to not clog up the works even with the filter present, so hop basket/spider seems most sensible to me, and I get a cleaner yeast harvest.
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See post 439. That's 8 ounces.
 
Can the lid fit on while on there? I had lid on with recirc arm while sanitizing, guess I don't need the lid for this.

I'd get a true BIAB instead of a paint strainer bag, if that's what it is, since you're coming into contact with boiling water. Otherwise, looks good!
 
Yambor44 said:
See post 439. That's 8 ounces.
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Ah, Looney Larry! :) I saw a view of his videos on you tube, funny guy. I'm still inclined to keep them out of the boiler, but I guess it might not be all that important. Main thing is to not knock off the filter cap, or the filter!!
 
I just tested my hot water directly from the tap and its gets to 142F. Can you sparge with this temperature after a 168F water 10min mashout?

Tried to find an answer, TMI. :tank:
 
I've often read that it's not good to start with hot water because of the chance of the water picking up contaminants from the hot water heater. Don't know how true it is. I just come across that subject from time to time.
Also in my years of working as a chef I was told by a few experienced chefs not to use hot tap water, always start with cold for cooking purposes (in our case beer purposes)
 
How quick is everyone cooling their wort? It took 12 gallons to cool 5 gallons to 68 degrees tonight.
 
No brewday update, butni had a dream last night that i was brewing and my GF leaked all over the floor. Hope its not an omen.
 
Brewing right now. Just finished the sparge and temp is currently 185º. I ended up sparging with 1/2 more than planned and ended up with 7.5 gallons pre-boil vs my target of 7. My plan is to boil for 105 mins vs. 90. Anything wrong with that?
 
Kettle carmalization would be the only thing I could think of. What are you brewing?
 
gotbeer74 said:
Kettle carmalization would be the only thing I could think of. What are you brewing?
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This is figured at 105 mins, starting with 7.5 gallons.

GrainFather IPA
21-A American IPA

Size: 6.19*gal
Efficiency: 75.0%
Attenuation: 83.0%
Calories: 196.43*kcal per 12.0*fl oz

Original Gravity: 1.060 (1.056 - 1.070)
Terminal Gravity: 1.010 (1.008 - 1.014)
Color: 12.87*SRM (6.0 - 14.0)
Alcohol: 6.5% (5.5% - 7.5%)
Bitterness: 61.0 (40.0 - 70.0)

Ingredients:
12.0*lb (85.7%) Pale Ale Malt - added during mash
1*lb (7.1%) Crystal Malt 60°L - added during mash
1*lb (7.1%) Cara-Pils® Malt - added during mash
1*oz (25.0%) Columbus 12.9% (12.9%) - added during boil, boiled 60*m
1*oz (25.0%) Simcoe® (13.0%) - added during boil, boiled 20*m
1*oz (25.0%) Centennial (9.0%) - added during boil
1*oz (25.0%) Simcoe® (13.0%) - added dry to primary fermenter




Notes
.

Results generated by BeerTools Pro 2.0.14
 
I'm using a pizza plate as a cover as someone mentioned here or on Youtube and also 2 layers of reflectix. My boil is far more aggressive than the water test so I am going to stick with the 90 minute and see where my final volume ends up.
 
Same as the Grainfather app. Beersmith is always .5 gallons high for sparge water. I want to sit down this week and see what needs to be changed so I can use it on my brew days.
 
Bout to brew my first beer ever and christen the GF. Looking to do the Zombie Dust clone but I could really use your guys' help. With zero experience, water volumes and scaling is very confusing to me at the moment. The recipe is in 6 gallons, but I am trying to scale to 2.5 gallons. I am using Brewers Friend. Does this process look right?

1. Copy the 6 gallon profile exactly.
2. Scale down to 2.5 gallons.
3. Ignore mash water amount and estimated boil size, use Grainfather calculator amounts for mash and sparge.
4. Use the scaled down recipe in BF as-is, but substitute the Grainfather water numbers.

So my question is, once I scale down in Brewers Friend, can I use that exact recipe, except ignore the water numbers and use the Grainfather numbers instead? Or will that result in numbers being way off from the recipe in BF. So confused!

EDIT: I haven't set up a Grainfather equipment profile in Brewers Friend, as I have no clue what numbers to put in there!
 
aghenender said:
Bout to brew my first beer ever and christen the GF. Looking to do the Zombie Dust clone but I could really use your guys' help. With zero experience, water volumes and scaling is very confusing to me at the moment. The recipe is in 6 gallons, but I am trying to scale to 2.5 gallons. I am using Brewers Friend. Does this process look right?

1. Copy the 6 gallon profile exactly.
2. Scale down to 2.5 gallons.
3. Ignore mash water amount and estimated boil size, use Grainfather calculator amounts for mash and sparge.
4. Use the scaled down recipe in BF as-is, but substitute the Grainfather water numbers.

So my question is, once I scale down in Brewers Friend, can I use that exact recipe, except ignore the water numbers and use the Grainfather numbers instead? Or will that result in numbers being way off from the recipe in BF. So confused!

EDIT: I haven't set up a Grainfather equipment profile in Brewers Friend, as I have no clue what numbers to put in there!
Click to expand...


I would go with number 4. I use Beersmith to create my recipe and GF for water needed.
 

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