Are these times to get to boil normal? Close to my times with 7 gals with the exception of the boil.
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Are these times to get to boil normal? Close to my times with 7 gals with the exception of the boil.
canehdianman
Well-Known Member
what a strange question.
The consensus is that you should still crush your grain. Forgetting to do so will result in very very very low efficiency.
Thanks for the reply, but I should have clarified what I was looking for.
GF recommends crushing the grain a bit course. Have a look at their videos--they do not recommend crushing too fine.
In other posts, folks got poor eff. with GF recommendations--until they crushed finer than recommended.
Anyhow, I gone ahead and brewed with LHBS crushed grain. I usually crush it a second time, but per GF recommendations, I will see how it goes.
First time using a new system, will take a few times to get things dialed in I suppose.
Oh...so far...everything is going well with my first brew underway.
Tip: to ramp up to your mash temp--set it at boil and normal and run pump. This way you are using the bigger element in the pot to get to your temp much quicker. Just before a couple degrees of hitting your target...switch back to mash.
Mash is going well. Pump is doing its magic. More to come...
Tip: to ramp up to your mash temp--set it at boil and normal and run pump. This way you are using the bigger element in the pot to get to your temp much quicker. Just before a couple degrees of hitting your target...switch back to mash.
Mash is going well. Pump is doing its magic. More to come...
This was exactly how I did it on one of my trials. Still took a long time to heat up.
I don't own a GF but have been following this thread and others...
Are you doing a step mash or just heating up your strike water??
If you're heating strike water, I seem to have read; Running the pump robs the heating element of power. So only run the pump once your strike water temp has been reached and the grain has been stirred in.
If you're doing a step mash, that's a different story. You'll need to run your pump so your mash is evenly heated throughout...
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Cutterman
Active Member
This was to a decent boil. It's not like a boil from my gas burners, but it will definitely do the job.
While I am waiting to hear back on my issue, I am going to try one more time. I went through my breaker panel and checked to see what other outlets were on the same leg as the outlets I have already tried. Two of the outlets had several other appliances including a commercial ice machine and 3 refrigerators. The other outlet I used, the one in the pictures in one of my previous posts with the 29" hello ext cord, only has one mini fridge on the same line.
I checked the specs on the mini fridge: 115 volts, 2.0 Amps. Should be fine. However, I bumped the thermostat up to the fridge so it shouldn't come on during this test. I am also working with 5 gallons this time at the start to simulate heating up strike water. Once it gets to strike temp (150º) I will add 2 gallons of 165º water ti simulate the sparge. Then i will see if I can achieve a boil this time and check the time on that. I'm not overly concerned about the times to get to the boil, just that it will achieve one without the lid on.
I checked the specs on the mini fridge: 115 volts, 2.0 Amps. Should be fine. However, I bumped the thermostat up to the fridge so it shouldn't come on during this test. I am also working with 5 gallons this time at the start to simulate heating up strike water. Once it gets to strike temp (150º) I will add 2 gallons of 165º water ti simulate the sparge. Then i will see if I can achieve a boil this time and check the time on that. I'm not overly concerned about the times to get to the boil, just that it will achieve one without the lid on.
So far:
88º up to 128º in 22:03. average of 1.81º per minute. So far so good.
141º in 30 mins. 1.766º per minute
150º in 35:09 mins. 1.771 per minute. Much better so far with 5 gallons and lid on. Just added recirculation arm and started pump. Temp staying at 150º (again water only).
Slowing way down with 7 gallons. Started at 150º up to 190º in 36 mins or 1.111º per minute. Lid still on until I get close to boil.
Removed lid at 210º. Took a while to get to 212º. Slight boil.
Hit 213º some time later and boil looks better now. Looks like some I have seen on YouTube. I am going to let it roll for 60 mins and see if it boils off one gallon as others have stated is the norm. I did flip the element switch a few times back and forth between normal and mash as it seems to me the element wasn’t running at full power on past attempts (whether from the unit itself or the draw on the circuit from the ice machine and other appliances). I could actually hear the water heating up pretty good this time. I also simulated scraping the bottom of the pot through the process this time.
I am going to try a brew in the next day or so, probably tomorrow after work and see what happens.
88º up to 128º in 22:03. average of 1.81º per minute. So far so good.
141º in 30 mins. 1.766º per minute
150º in 35:09 mins. 1.771 per minute. Much better so far with 5 gallons and lid on. Just added recirculation arm and started pump. Temp staying at 150º (again water only).
Slowing way down with 7 gallons. Started at 150º up to 190º in 36 mins or 1.111º per minute. Lid still on until I get close to boil.
Removed lid at 210º. Took a while to get to 212º. Slight boil.
Hit 213º some time later and boil looks better now. Looks like some I have seen on YouTube. I am going to let it roll for 60 mins and see if it boils off one gallon as others have stated is the norm. I did flip the element switch a few times back and forth between normal and mash as it seems to me the element wasn’t running at full power on past attempts (whether from the unit itself or the draw on the circuit from the ice machine and other appliances). I could actually hear the water heating up pretty good this time. I also simulated scraping the bottom of the pot through the process this time.
I am going to try a brew in the next day or so, probably tomorrow after work and see what happens.
RockyMountainCraftBrewing
Well-Known Member
When I bought my GF there were no Canadian shops selling it.Best deal I can find right now for Canadians is Beer Grains Supply in Ontario $1099 + taxes and shipping and Beer Grains does offer flat rate shipping.
The dollar was not as weak when when I bought my GF out of the USA.If I were to purchase in Canada with the exchange rate Beer Grains Supply would be the hands down favorite IMO
RMCB
First hour of boil down, 1/2 gallon boiled off. I'll check back at the 90 min mark.
Lazer Wolf Brewing
Well-Known Member
Shout out to Jason over at Adventure in Homebrewing. I emailed him a picture of the dent and he called me back an hour later telling me they would be shipping a new grain basket and a return shipping label. He even said I could try to pop out my dent in the old basket and brew while I waited for the new basket...said it wouldn't matter if I damaged it. Now that's customer service!
90 minutes in and 3/4 gallon boiled off.
Seems a little weak.
What is the general consensus on everyones boil off rate?
Edit: 2 hours down and not quite a gallon boiled off.
Seems a little weak.
What is the general consensus on everyones boil off rate?
Edit: 2 hours down and not quite a gallon boiled off.
Cutterman
Active Member
Are you accounting for cooling shrinkage? Are you measuring from water started with or from water level at start of boil? Mine boiled off about .6 per hour which is close to my gas system.
canehdianman
Well-Known Member
I don't understand why people are concerned the boil is weak.
The hop isomerize well before boiling and the wort is sterilized before boiling as well.. What else is there to be concerned about?
What am I missing?
I'm accounting the same way I do every brew. Wort (water in this case) collected before the boil and how much wort is boiled off during a 60 minute boil.
With my current electric system (homemade) I start with 13 gallons (wort collected). Once the boil starts I go 10 mins before the first (60 min) hop addition. At flameout I have about 11 gallons before chilling is started. So in 70 mins I boil off 2 gallons of wort with my PID set at 60% on a 5500 watt element on 30 amp plug.
I'm not expecting the same boil of course, but thought I'd seen and read where most boil rates were one gallon after an hour. However, that could have been on the UK model with the larger element.
Why do some people brew for 60 mins while others brew for 90? To reach a certain gravity, etc.
This is the reason I Want to go ahead with a brew session. I really want this to work. I like everything else about it. I think it is a very efficient system that will be easy to clean and maintain.
Yes. Once in Fedex tracking system they shipped right away.
So I'm expecting mine tomorrow but I've been all grain for 2yrs now and I will likely attempt to use gravity feed from a kettle to sparge. I will probably start with the pouring method until I see size and rig something up.
From what I've read for best performance-
1)- insulation. I will use reflectix, likely 2 or 3 wraps.
2)- dedicated 20a line. I just put in a GFCI on a run 5' from electric panel by disposal- 2' off floor, no ext cord needed. Only disposal, one outlet (coffee maker) and micro on this circuit.
3)- lid on, full power up to mash temp (more precisely strike temp I suppose).
4)- keep grain basket on after sparge while bringing up to boil. Alternatively I suppose lid on will work too.
5)- Grain crush- I will keep my slightly finer crush practice than GF suggestion.
6)- hops- I purchased a hop basket from Williams, I like the look of it and hope it works well too.
5)- RDWHAHB- maybe when I get this all dialed in I might just enjoy a brew during brew day??!
Looking forward to this!
Actually, BKF removes the oxide layer. The good news is the steel will re-oxidize itself over a short period of time. You didn't need to passivate this, but ultimately no harm done other than some probable discoloration at the transitions.
Regarding #4. After mash is complete, switch to boil and begin your sparge. Lift your basket to drain wort. It will take you 30 mins maybe more to sparge. It will take this amount.of time to bring to a boil...maybe longer.
I did my first brew yesterday and other than poor eff. And the filter getting clogged up with all the hops...I am a very satisfied customer. I may do a double crush on grains next time.
Will take a few batches to get things dialed to my new system.
I did a 90 min boil...and that was about my exp also.
Are you using GF recommended water volume calculator?
Heating strike water only. I did not exp any indication of being robbed of heating.
Temp only went up...not down or stagnant. Will try with it off next time but this tip came from another forum member who has a video out on YouTube withe other helpful tips...seems to have worked for me.
seabrew8
Well-Known Member
I'm confused: Are you saying theres a garbage disposal, one outlet and a microwave on the same circuit has you GF? Dedicated?
Can anyone tell me the length of the power cord for the GF? I have a 20a outlet just off the panel but its probably 5 feet above the floor. Rather not have to mess with it. I guess i could just lay the GF on something higher...but then comes the sparging and lifting the basket issue...
scallopking
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the cord is like 5' long
scallopking
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so I clocked the times, here's what I got below.
I had very, very poor efficiency yesterday. Kind of bummed. it's a little disappointing after 6-7 hours of brew time. I had the grain previously crushed and in the freeze for several days, could that be it? the LHBS had some issues the crusher when I was there, maybe that's it?
I've been doing 75 min mashes to help wit efficiency. I also did a 75 min boil.
from 60 degrees to 148 took 50 min
from 148 degrees to 208 took 1:10 min - stopped at 208 though I've gotten 209 on occasion (30 min of this was sparge)
no pump clogging - used 5.5oz hops in the boil.
two issues I have - wish the ramp up times were faster - guess I could use a boil stick like others. this would shave some time off.
but the other issue is cooling the wort - it doesn't cool fast enough and I'm thinking of alternatives. it's cold in Las Vegas right now so the hose water is pretty cold and I don't get why it won't cool quicker. It was late so I didn't clock the times, but when I cool from 208 to 170 for the hopstand it is quick to get down. but from 160 to 80 takes a long time. anything you guys do here?
I usually get 1g boil off.
I had very, very poor efficiency yesterday. Kind of bummed. it's a little disappointing after 6-7 hours of brew time. I had the grain previously crushed and in the freeze for several days, could that be it? the LHBS had some issues the crusher when I was there, maybe that's it?
I've been doing 75 min mashes to help wit efficiency. I also did a 75 min boil.
from 60 degrees to 148 took 50 min
from 148 degrees to 208 took 1:10 min - stopped at 208 though I've gotten 209 on occasion (30 min of this was sparge)
no pump clogging - used 5.5oz hops in the boil.
two issues I have - wish the ramp up times were faster - guess I could use a boil stick like others. this would shave some time off.
but the other issue is cooling the wort - it doesn't cool fast enough and I'm thinking of alternatives. it's cold in Las Vegas right now so the hose water is pretty cold and I don't get why it won't cool quicker. It was late so I didn't clock the times, but when I cool from 208 to 170 for the hopstand it is quick to get down. but from 160 to 80 takes a long time. anything you guys do here?
I usually get 1g boil off.
I guess not, I just added 5 gallons and then 2 more for a total of 7.
Your time to strike was similar to mine at 1.76º per minute but from there to the boil was only .85º per minute whereas I was getting about 1.11º/minute.
Did you adjust the red valve during the chilling period? you can raise and lower the temp of the wort coming out of the chiller by opening up or closing off some on the red handle. I've seen several folks get the wort to the temp they want (coming out of the chiller) and then move the hose to fill the fermenter.
This practice will drastically cut down on your chill time since you are not trying to chill the entire 5-6 gallons of wort at one time.
