So just a little pro/con rundown after a number of brews with the U.S. model...
Pros:
- Cleanup is substantially faster not only due to the smaller number of vessels involved but the cleaning cycle you run on it at the end. Just set it and walk away for a bit, dump the cleaning water, refill w/clean water, recirc for a bit, maybe give it a quick wipe down (or just let gravity take care of it), and you're good.
- I haven't run into any leaks with either the boiler, mash basket, recirc pipe/pump, or CFC. I have confidence in kicking off a brew or a pump cycle on it and not having to babysit it.
- Once you dial your mash/sparge volumes in, you'll nail your expected numbers every time if you keep your process the same. I have taken to using Beersmith with a modified equipment profile (check the Grainfather FB group for that info) and when I trust what the software gives me AND have my sparge water heated and ready when I pull the basket out - to where the sparge starts the moment the basket's pulled out - everything's gone smoothly. It's when I've deviated from the norm by purpose or otherwise that I've gotten a stuck sparge, missed volumes, etc.
- I know a number of folks like the GF because it stores away in no bigger a space than a carboy or gatorade cooler. I didn't buy it for that reason, but it's awfully convenient that it stores in itself.
Cons:
- Sight glass would have been nice on the boiler. As it is, I have to know my sparge water volume in the source vessel instead of the boiler and I'd rather go off doing math on the pre-sparge volume and working from there to get my sparge volume. As it is, it's very hard to see the internal volume lines when the basket's sitting on top of the boiler.
- If I do a larger beer, I find the heating element will accumulate a bit of sugar which twice now has triggered the safety shutoff on the heating element. Tipping the GF to get to the bottom of the unit to reset the element isn't my favorite thing in the world. The solution to that is to be diligent about keeping the element clean, but in the process of that I'm afraid I'll knock off the precariously-positioned trub filter leading to the pump. Having no easily-bumpable end cap to the trub filter (maybe, oh, I don't know, a screw-on cap?) would be a bonus, as would some sort of, say, quick disconnect from the rubber female connection to the male internal port on the boiler leading to the pump.
That's really it for cons. The boil was my major concern as it is for a lot of people, and I completely get it. I was given a great tip of ensuring that you're plugging your GF into an outlet that's got the little "side thingy" on the plugs like this: -| | instead of just the two lines: | |
I know that's a HORRRRIBLE explanation but I guess the ones with the extra thingy on it are the 20A outlets, which should maximize the power on the GF as opposed to the other outlets which are the 15A outlets. I have never had an issue with maintaining a boil, and while ramp-up takes longer than with propane or more powerful elements, the perks of easy transfer when cooling and quick cleanup tend to cancel out the ramp up to boil slowness.
Lastly, don't buy that silly jacket. Even three/four coats of reflectix would be cheaper than that thing and I can't imagine it's more effective. One of the selling points is that you can wash the outer fabric on the jacket...if getting a little sugary wort on your reflectix that doesn't come off 100% is that big a deal, by all means, go for it...but I'd rather spend that money on a decent sparge water heater or some QDs for the CFC connections.