Grainfather!!

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Well, here's a boil with plain water at the 7 gallon mark which is probably more than I will actually be boiling with wort. It'll surely do especially considering the convenience factors. I look forward to a first brew.

That's a boil but barely. I see why others are supplementing with heat sticks. How long did it take to go from switch on to that level of boil?
 
That boil is all you need. My stove doesn't boil any bigger than that with a small pot of boiling eggs. I certainly didn't expect it to rival my propane system but I wouldn't want it to. That could get messy really quick. And what's the need really? Boil bragging rights? [emoji1]If it makes good beer, and from all accounts I have read it does, than I'm completely satisfied.

I have to look back at my times. Rough estimate if I remember correctly it took me about 40 minutes or so to go from 58 degrees to 157. Not bad. Then another 36-40 to get to 212. I sat in the next room watching tv so it's not like I had to babysit it like my propane system.
 
That sounds like a nightmare. Buy one? Maybe when they figure it out. [emoji16]

You have to keep in mind, I was doing all this while also supervising 5 others brewing and minding a store and answering visitor questions.....no way I could even have come close to a brew session using traditional equipment and having to tend it.....
The point was about times and boils....time is not bad and you can boil over!:D
 
Yep, that's all you need.
I think people are used to their "volcanic" boils achieved with LP, and are also concerned about boiling off DMS. That boil is good enough......GF is on my wish list!:mug:

FWIW there are those who think a strong boil is important. I'm not one of them but I think Kal (who I respect) is such a person.
 
If I'm not mistaken, the Picobrew Zymatic doesn't boil at all. And apparently, many brewers are making quite acceptable brews with them. I use a rolling, but not violent, boil.
I plan to get a Grainfather when I can.
 
If I'm not mistaken, the Picobrew Zymatic doesn't boil at all. And apparently, many brewers are making quite acceptable brews with them. I use a rolling, but not violent, boil.
I plan to get a Grainfather when I can.

Yep -- no need for a vigorous boil -- and (most likely) no need for a full on 212F boil (or whatever the temp for boiling is at any given location).

My Pico recirculates during the 207F 60-minute "boil" phase. And it's this re circulation @ 207F that works fine to drive off the DMS. In fact, I've had a truncated Pico session due to an issue with the Pico's PID -- and I made a pumpkin ale with a 25 minute boil -- and it turned out fine, no issues. The finished beer -- after 2 weeks in the fermenter w/Safale-05 -- clocked in at a 4.2 pH -- which is normal for an ale post-ferment and finished. Taste-wise is was perfectly fine. I had the mash at a 5.3 pH, added fairly equal amounts of gypsum and calcium chloride for the mash, and hopped with magnum for bittering. After I realized the boil was cut short, I added 1oz of Citra at flameout for 15 minute stand. Finished beer is fantastic -- no off-flavors whatsoever.

Some folks -- myself included -- are coming around to the fact that the "vigorous boil" thing is a myth. In fact, the 60 minute boil is (probably) a myth as well. See the recent Brulosophy entries on the short boils (http://brulosophy.com/2015/09/14/boil-length-pt-2-pilsner-malt-exbeeriment-results/). (Hop utilization is obviously another issue with short boils -- so a long boil is necessary for hop levels -- but it's not *necessarily* necessary for all the stuff you're warned about -- especially DMS.)

My 120V Blichmann BoilCoil in my BIAB system does a perfectly fine boil -- a calm boil, but a full-on boil nonetheless -- and I've been saving 30min or so from my brewday by doing 30 minute boils for more malt-forward beers.

On the flip side, a vigorous boil probably doesn't hurt anything -- and if you can do it, great. But after 65+ batches with my Pico -- and always having the "boil" at 207F -- I'm churning out great beers. Not a hint of DMS -- ever. I suspect all current -- and all future -- 120V systems with 2250W heating elements will have calm and not vigorous boils. Hopefully, this doesn't dissuade potential brewers. The convenience of a 20A 120V system is fantastic -- especially for those of us who (for many years) fussed with propane tanks or fretted over 240V outlet installs.

One downside to the Pico's 207F boil is that I've noticed that hop extract (HopShot, for example) doesn't work quite like it does in a regular boil kettle. It seems that the extract (for super hoppy beers) needs the full boil (vigorous or calm) to do its thing. I say this because I've noticed big globs of hopshot in the bottom of my Pico's kegs after I bottle. I've never noticed this in a regular boil kettle.

YMMV for this, though -- but it would be an interesting experiment.

Also, see:

http://brulosophy.com/2015/11/12/short-shoddy-my-1-hour-all-grain-brew-day/

The other issue I've noticed -- and it's something that actually moved me to purchase a BIAB system in addition to my Pico -- is that for the life of me I cannot make a super hoppy beer with my Pico -- at least not by relying on the hop compartments and the Pico's automation. I can dangle hop bags in the boil kettle -- and this seems to work -- but it's not as automatic or hands-off as I'd like. This is the main reason I purchased a relatively low cost BIAB 120V system -- hoppy beers. The Pico makes great malt-forward beers -- superb, actually -- but I can't figure out how to bring the hops front and center with the Zymatic.

I'm guessing that the Grainfather -- because it doesn't rely on recirculating wort through adjunct compartments -- doesn't have this problem?
 
DMS has a boiling point of 34 deg C or so, about 95 F.

I haven't looked up the precursors, though.
 
Well, brew number 2 is taking place now! I realized something on the mash. Make sure your tube is up high enough before placing on the top screen. I pulled the plug and it was a smidge too low but the water lever was high and I pressed a bit on the grain bed to get to the top of the tube. Hopefully it doesn't effect the efficiency!
 
Wowza! I was anticipating 1.053 pre boil OG and hit 1.063! haha I had to adjust my hop schedules! lol At this rate, I will hit 1.078-1.080!
 
I am making an IPA! I made a recipe up. 12 pounds MO, 1/2 pound Crystal 120, 1/2 pound Munich 20. 1 ounce each of simcoe and amarillo at 30 minutes and 1 each at 5 minutes.
 
Okay time for some Grainfather beer porn:

Grainfather in action with my initial brew, SS Brewbucket with FTSs doing its thing. And about an hour ago the first pour! @OldSock recipe: Softer & Jucier APA which turned out unreal. Best homebrew I've ever made...hands down.

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Cool thanks! I Just moved into an apartment and have been brewing over carpet, which is not fun. I am currently using a ss brew tech mash tun, 1500 what HLT and a 10 gallon mega pot with an induction hot plate. It works great and love it. I Just think I would be better off selling it and getting a grain father so I can brew in my small kitchen which is tile haha. Also having to carry the boil kettle to the kitchen to cool and clean everything is a bear. All of these post are really making me want to get the GrainFather!
 
Yeah. Grainfather is easier. Especially the lugging boil kettle part!

I use Beersmith2 for recipes but get all my water volumes from the grainfather website.
 
Do you guys base your water calculations off the 6 gallon formula they show in the manual or did you adjust down to a 5.5 gallon batch? Would hate to have a tad too much in the fermenter and end up dumping it because it wouldn't all fit in the keg.
 
Forgot to mention, I was hitting 214* today on the boil!

You need to re-calibrate you temperature gauge. Liquid water begins to turn to gas at boiling point and thus will not go above 212* (maybe fractionally above depending on the gravity).

Find the elevation above sea level for your location then plug your elevation into this calculator. Re-calibrate your temp to that value.
 
Do you guys base your water calculations off the 6 gallon formula they show in the manual or did you adjust down to a 5.5 gallon batch? Would hate to have a tad too much in the fermenter and end up dumping it because it wouldn't all fit in the keg.

I scale most of my recipes to 6 gallons
 
I scale mine to 5.5. Then I sparge to about 6.5 gallons in the kettle.
Not too worried about boil temp. I think it's pretty on. I'm right at sea level and have checked it with a thermometer when I first got the GF.
 
I noticed the Grainfather app was about a half gallon off from the online calculator on the sparge step. Mash volume was right on between the two.
 
I don't use the app. It really seems like way too much work than just using Beersmith for recipe/steps and the grainfather website for water volumes.
 
use the app it works great. i didnt like it at first but my numbers have been right on
 
It just seems so redundant Lol adding your recipe into Beersmith, getting your water volumes from gf.com then re entering them into the app.
 
Forgot to mention, I was hitting 214* today on the boil!

I read somewhere in my research that the controller temp reading is designed to be most accurate at mashing temps. Can't remember what document I read this but they did state it wasn't nearly as accurate at boil temp. This is if you were using the controller reading to get temp.
 
Yup! It was temp readout on the controller. It didn't hit it for long, just spike to it then back down to 212
 
The app gives you the water volumes. I create my recipes in Beersmith and then use the app on brew day. Been hitting my numbers consistently.
 
I had my first brew last night. Everything was smooth sailing. Except one thing. I blew past my gravity numbers by over 10 points! Crazy efficiency on this thing. I'm definitely going to have to up my efficiency numbers in Beersmith. But I guess I'd rather be too high than too low.

I think this was my most relaxed brew session ever. Ate dinner and watched TV while brewing. Yeah I can get used to this alright. [emoji1]
 
Yup! What did you get for eff? I definitely dig the GF! i think mine was 76% eff on my last. That said, pretty sure it was higher due to volume into the fermenter. 76% for 5 gallons and 82% for 5.5 which I believe is what went in. (The lid was on, on the brew bucket so I couldn't see)
 
Really close to biting the bullet on one of these now that they are in Canada. My big worry is the proprietary parts, like the pump. Not sure how this will hold up to years of brewing, and what if it fails?
 
Really close to biting the bullet on one of these now that they are in Canada. My big worry is the proprietary parts, like the pump. Not sure how this will hold up to years of brewing, and what if it fails?

Yes..I am very close myself but this is a huge concern. I've also read somewhere that it may not be possible to replace the heating element if it goes out. Anyone able to confirm these parts aren't serviceable?
 
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