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Last couple of brew sessions, I've run it with several inches of sparge gasket popped off the edge. The weight of the grain seems to seal it sufficiently.
 
I run my cooling water through an immersion cooler (sitting in an ice bath) and then through the Grainfather cooler. The immersion cooler knocks my wort temp down about 10 more degrees than just going through the GF cooler. By throttling the GF pump outlet, I can cool my wort down into the low 60's and still get it into the fermenter in 30 minutes or so.

Your sink water must be way colder than mine cuz that's exactly how I set mine up too. My immersion cooler isn't that big tho. I throttle my GF pump outlet to the point where it finished in 45 mins so that tells me it's slower than your flow. How fast are you running the sink water?
 
Your sink water must be way colder than mine cuz that's exactly how I set mine up too. My immersion cooler isn't that big tho. I throttle my GF pump outlet to the point where it finished in 45 mins so that tells me it's slower than your flow. How fast are you running the sink water?

My sink faucet has about 180 degrees of motion between off and "full" on. I open the faucet about 1/2 way to achieve maximum flow without over pressurizing the hose connection.
 
Hi Bob,
Here's some other thoughts for you, I generally brew for 5.5g in the fermenter. I tend to not brew as large of a grain bill, but have hit 14.5+ so pretty much in your same range compare to a 6.08g brew. My calc on a 14.4# bill was about a 2.25:1 ratio on mash /sparge ~ 22L v 9.6L. I came in with about a 74% brewhouse efficiency (this is subject of course to hop/trub losses as well as how well you drain your fermenter, I think some folks here quote mash eff, I care about brewhouse myself). So in my view, it works ok on these larger bills.
Two things you may consider: 1) when you're done sparging, put the basket in a large pot and add back what still drains off about mid-way into your boil. I measure this and find I'm adding in another .5 L, no small amount! 2) if you really want to stretch, increase your sparge water by 1/2 of your boil off amount (This will address your concerns that it is not rinsing thoroughly) and then increase your boil time by 50% (e.g. 60 min to 90 min). Yes you may darken the wort a bit more, idk if noticeable, but you may also pick up some OG points.
No matter what enjoy testing !


btw- I like the MGB name, great car, brother had one many, many years ago. I have a 2000 Boxster as a sunshine care, but keep looking at the old MGBs to add to the garage some day, love their simplicity!

I am running a MGB as my daily driver. Simple to maintain and a blast to drive. Boxster is a great car as well!

Thanks for the recommendations. I have started following item #1, but not waiting as long as mid boil. I'll increase my "wait time" on that one. Item #2: Increasing sparge water and then boil off time deserves some serious consideration.
 
Generally, I'm only able to cool down to about 80-85 during the summer using my Grainfather cooler. I might get it down to 75 degrees if I let it run full blast and recirculated the wort for an extra half an hour (wasting lots of water). I stick it in my spare refrigerator overnight to get to pitching temp.
 
Generally, I'm only able to cool down to about 80-85 during the summer using my Grainfather cooler. I might get it down to 75 degrees if I let it run full blast and recirculated the wort for an extra half an hour (wasting lots of water). I stick it in my spare refrigerator overnight to get to pitching temp.

I don't have a spare fridge but I'm doing something similar with a water bath. I don't like the idea of waiting overnight to pitch, but I guess we have no other option!
 
Once I get below 60c/140f where there shouldn't be any isomerisation occuring I restrict the flow so the output from the counterflow is cooler and go straight into the fermenter. Usually it's the same temp as the tap water which for me is 27-32c.
 
I am running a MGB as my daily driver. Simple to maintain and a blast to drive. Boxster is a great car as well!

Thanks for the recommendations. I have started following item #1, but not waiting as long as mid boil. I'll increase my "wait time" on that one. Item #2: Increasing sparge water and then boil off time deserves some serious consideration.
You're welcome, hope it helps. DD wow what year is it? I thought it might be relegated to spot duty, but it's going strong?

Once I get below 60c/140f where there shouldn't be any isomerisation occuring I restrict the flow so the output from the counterflow is cooler and go straight into the fermenter. Usually it's the same temp as the tap water which for me is 27-32c.
Are you suggesting that prior to 60c you recirc back to boiler? If so, why? I go straight to fermenter after about 30sec of recirc. Currently tap temp is 72 or so and I transfer wide open, in 15 min I was down to 80. From there chamber takes over.
I again forgot to freeze my old I/C in a pail of water to create a nice block around it and use as a pre chiller. I think this will make a difference that may get me to pitching temp within my 15min transfer (5.5g). Hope to brew again in two weeks and have this ice block test completed and report back results. I think this will be much better than IC in cooler of ice water as a prechiller.
I love summer but cooler temps will make this a moot point. And I'm making darker beers again, so there's that too!
 
Are you suggesting that prior to 60c you recirc back to boiler? If so, why? I go straight to fermenter after about 30sec of recirc. Currently tap temp is 72 or so and I transfer wide open, in 15 min I was down to 80. From there chamber takes over.

I'm not sure what you mean, above 70c is still sub-isomerization range so I just get below all of that to 60 asap before transferring.

What temp do you get in the FV without the immersion chiller?

iMake/Grainfater are releasing an in-line connector you can move the temp sensor into, basically to do what a thrumometer does using the GF temp controller.. that will be cool.
 
I'm not sure what you mean, above 70c is still sub-isomerization range so I just get below all of that to 60 asap before transferring.

What temp do you get in the FV without the immersion chiller?

iMake/Grainfater are releasing an in-line connector you can move the temp sensor into, basically to do what a thrumometer does using the GF temp controller.. that will be cool.
I use only the CFC and last time with 72 tap temp was 80 into FV with full open 5.5g transfer in 15min.
If I understand you, your concern is about hop utilization after the boil. And what I think I'm reading is you cool the wort directly in the boiler to <60c and then transfer to the fermenter. Not sure if you use the CFC to accomplish this or an IC but how long does that take? My process will indeed keep some hot wort in contact up to 15 min, but lots are cooled, and transferred much earlier-beginning just 30sec in!
I doubt I can taste this longer time to utilize hops- heck if you also sanitize the CFC at end of boil you're adding that time too! I know I'm not concerned about it- I do tweak my recipes until satisfied, including when and how much hops. Wouldn't it make more sense to attempt to quantify this additional utilization and adjust the hop amounts to counter act this effect? Or adjust on your taste impressions instead of recipe amounts? Or have I totally missed your point?
One final thought. I used to use a hop basket and wasn't sure I was getting the utilization I wanted, so now I'm back to bagging (loosely) in reusables and muslin hop sacks. I can pull these out at any time. Another way to stop, or mostly limit, utilization. Still the hop filter is in place too! I also use a paint strainer bag over my conical on transfers, surprising still how much I sometimes strain out.
A thrumometer is a cool addition!
Cheers
 
You're welcome, hope it helps. DD wow what year is it? I thought it might be relegated to spot duty, but it's going strong?

It's an '80 - last year of production. The B power train is surprisingly robust - easy to keep them running strong.

I brewed the robust porter again that I talked about in post 3262. The first one came out 10 points low. Ouch! That one was a 16 lb grain bill with a 60 minute mash and 60 minute boil. Changed the latest brew to a 90 minute mash with all else remaining the same. OG ended up 1 point high and I'm a happy camper for the evening!:ban: BH efficiency still in the low 70's for this larger grain bill, but I'm getting closer to milling my own grain and I'm hoping to see a substantial increase.
 
It's an '80 - last year of production. The B power train is surprisingly robust - easy to keep them running strong.

I brewed the robust porter again that I talked about in post 3262. The first one came out 10 points low. Ouch! That one was a 16 lb grain bill with a 60 minute mash and 60 minute boil. Changed the latest brew to a 90 minute mash with all else remaining the same. OG ended up 1 point high and I'm a happy camper for the evening!:ban: BH efficiency still in the low 70's for this larger grain bill, but I'm getting closer to milling my own grain and I'm hoping to see a substantial increase.
Ha, I thought the 80 in your screen name was the year you were born!&#128540; My '01 Sport Trac (202k mi) has held up well but just needed a new rear axle. Things wear, so keeping the MGB running is really great to hear.
A jump of 11pts w/ mash increase from 60-90 seems high. I've read the mash gains are minimal even beyond 45 min. I bet crush was different. Getting a grain mill will help w/consistency. Not to mention you recoup costs w/sack purchases after about 2-3 sacks of grain are used (~$1/# savings I est)
 
Ha, I thought the 80 in your screen name was the year you were born!&#128540; My '01 Sport Trac (202k mi) has held up well but just needed a new rear axle. Things wear, so keeping the MGB running is really great to hear.
A jump of 11pts w/ mash increase from 60-90 seems high. I've read the mash gains are minimal even beyond 45 min. I bet crush was different. Getting a grain mill will help w/consistency. Not to mention you recoup costs w/sack purchases after about 2-3 sacks of grain are used (~$1/# savings I est)

I WISH I were an '80 - lol. I predate the MGA, let alone the MGB.:mug:

I agree that a jump of that magnitude was high (to be considered a result of the lengthened mash), but I was still A-OK with getting back to numbers that my software calculated I should be getting. A few months away from my own grain mill, so I'll have to persevere a bit longer.
 
New Grainfather Connect owner here. I&#8217;m looking forward to brewing with this, but had a quick question regarding water calculations.

When building a recipe using Grainfather&#8217;s tool, there is a boil size field. I&#8217;m assuming that this is the pre boil size. The confusing thing is that the water calculations appear to take loss into consideration. The recipe editor appears to produce the same mash and sparge water calculations as the calculator on the website which takes into account the grain bill weight and boil time. So, what is the boil size field for exactly? Do I need to adjust it for any reason? What am I missing?

Thanks!
 
New Grainfather Connect owner here. I’m looking forward to brewing with this, but had a quick question regarding water calculations.

When building a recipe using Grainfather’s tool, there is a boil size field. I’m assuming that this is the pre boil size. The confusing thing is that the water calculations appear to take loss into consideration. The recipe editor appears to produce the same mash and sparge water calculations as the calculator on the website which takes into account the grain bill weight and boil time. So, what is the boil size field for exactly? Do I need to adjust it for any reason? What am I missing? Thanks!
I think the GF tool is giving you the option to use the default value or enter one for yourself. For instance, I know my boil off rate is 2qts/hr on my 120v (US) system, so if I want my boil off plus trub allowance of 1 qt to give me 5.5 gallons into the fermenter, I'll enter 6.25 gals. Hope this helps. Ed
:mug:
 
So, GF owners, i've read many many threads pertaining to this unit and other similar electric all in one systems. I'm trying to down size for a smaller footprint and indoor winter brewing while living in a townhouse in the northeast. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a GF.

Current owners, any regrets? Improvements? Concerns?

I have found some decent deals running now, but what are the chances this thing drops below 850 shipped for black friday/cyber monday?

Any opinions welcomed.
 
So, GF owners, i've read many many threads pertaining to this unit and other similar electric all in one systems. I'm trying to down size for a smaller footprint and indoor winter brewing while living in a townhouse in the northeast. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a GF.

Current owners, any regrets? Improvements? Concerns?

I have found some decent deals running now, but what are the chances this thing drops below 850 shipped for black friday/cyber monday?

Any opinions welcomed.

The last couple years they have had a Black Friday sale. It was 10% off everything. Go to their website and signup for emails. In the past they’ve sent an email on Black Friday about the sale. Good luck I really enjoy mine. Just wish it would heat up a little quicker. Hoping Mrs. Claus gets a hot rod heat stick to ramp temps up quicker.
 
So, GF owners, i've read many many threads pertaining to this unit and other similar electric all in one systems. I'm trying to down size for a smaller footprint and indoor winter brewing while living in a townhouse in the northeast. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a GF.

Current owners, any regrets? Improvements? Concerns?

I have found some decent deals running now, but what are the chances this thing drops below 850 shipped for black friday/cyber monday?

Any opinions welcomed.

The GF is perfect for indoor brewing and, compared to what else is out there, you get a lot for the price. I haven't owned mine long enough to know about what to anticipate with sales prices.

I do recommend the use of the Graincoat (~$50) or a DIY similar item. The boil on my 110V system seems more vigorous since I insulated the boiler.

The heatup time does take a bit of getting used to. About 45 minutes to get up to mash temp originally bugged me, but now I just see it as an opportunity to fully wake up and have a cup of coffee or two.
 
I just picked mine up for 20% off from Northern Brewer ($799 + tax). Seems like they have sales like this all the time.

First impressions are wonderful so far. I got a little impatient with the time to get up to mash and boil temps as I'm used to using a propane burner but aside from that nice unit, simple to use.

So, GF owners, i've read many many threads pertaining to this unit and other similar electric all in one systems. I'm trying to down size for a smaller footprint and indoor winter brewing while living in a townhouse in the northeast. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a GF.

Current owners, any regrets? Improvements? Concerns?

I have found some decent deals running now, but what are the chances this thing drops below 850 shipped for black friday/cyber monday?

Any opinions welcomed.
 
So, GF owners, i've read many many threads pertaining to this unit and other similar electric all in one systems. I'm trying to down size for a smaller footprint and indoor winter brewing while living in a townhouse in the northeast. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a GF.

Current owners, any regrets? Improvements? Concerns?

I have found some decent deals running now, but what are the chances this thing drops below 850 shipped for black friday/cyber monday?

Any opinions welcomed.
Regrets, not really. Do wonder if I went to BIAB (was cooler MLT) if I'd be similarly satisfied -e.g. small footprint, which I wanted to maintain, but the GF is one nice complete setup.
Improvements, yeah. As Bob noted, insulate. I made a reflectix coat from day 1. A Process improvement that's been huge - I now add my mash water (and water additions) along with milling grains the night before. Get up about 45min early, turn it on to my strike temp and back to bed. I get up to water heated up and ready to dough in. Easy.
Concerns- mostly melted away. Used to be concerned with mash temps (controller reads outside of mash basket) but with strike temp about +10 I dough in and measure the grain bed and voila as expected! GF temp read out takes time to catch up- I ignore it. Also I'm beginning now on some batches that recirc slowly (I stop overflow) to pull the top plate and stir it up good 2 times or so. Easy to do, continue on with mash and I feel improves efficiency as I'm willing to bet channeling may occur. These are endemic to any sparge system, so no reflection on GF. My all in times (excl the 45 min I go back to bed!), are right in line w/propane days- I use a 15 min mash out temp of 170, cover basket in between pours of sparge water, turn to boil at begin of sparge, etc. And I brew inside!
Igobru on eBay takes offers, low ball it. Retailers I bet have a good markup on this.
You could always go all DIY if you like that, starting with a large coffee urn or so, but the look, ease of use and completeness of this setup is worth it. And the CFC rocks! Enjoy
 
The last couple years they have had a Black Friday sale. It was 10% off everything. Go to their website and signup for emails. In the past they’ve sent an email on Black Friday about the sale. Good luck I really enjoy mine. Just wish it would heat up a little quicker. Hoping Mrs. Claus gets a hot rod heat stick to ramp temps up quicker.



I've got a 1000W heatstick to turbo heat mine...works well but never had to use it...if you have the newer grainfather you likely know you can program it to start earlier...
 
even with its "slow" ramp times im still under 5hrs including cleanup for a brew day.

So, GF owners, i've read many many threads pertaining to this unit and other similar electric all in one systems. I'm trying to down size for a smaller footprint and indoor winter brewing while living in a townhouse in the northeast. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a GF.

Current owners, any regrets? Improvements? Concerns?

I have found some decent deals running now, but what are the chances this thing drops below 850 shipped for black friday/cyber monday?

Any opinions welcomed.

I have two mash paddles. one stainless for stirring the uh mash. and a plastic one for scrapping the bottom where the element sits to keep stuff from baking during the first part of the boil. already had the plastic one from starter kit years ago but its not sturdy enough to handle really thick mashes without bending like crazy. but I also dont want to scratch the stainless moreso for just preventing my own annoyance.

pump is a tad weak, but as its incorporated into the system is adequate.

I have concerns about the connection from the element plug where it goes into the control box. It already lunched one grainfather and controller on me (replaced under warranty). I dont think itll be an issue again most likely.

overall I really like the system. I brew far far more often with it than before. Hell I brewed on saturday... indoors when it was 45 degrees outside and raining in my kitchen while watching Startrek TNG on netflix on my tv. Yep... makes for much more enjoyable a brewing experience.

plus the now standard bluetooth controller means I can have my strike water heated as soon as I get out of the shower in the morning or when I get home from work or as I leave to go to the brewstore to get grains and what not hah (10min delay + 10min roundtrip + 30minutes of bsing with the store owner and sharing some of my latest batch means its ready when I get back home).
 
Thanks for your opinions guys. Good to hear from some users that have very legimate pros and cons. That's what I was looking for.

Sounds like this system will work just fine for my current arrangement. The small footprint and compact design are a true selling point. When more space becomes available to me, I can look at larger rigs with more options.

Thanks again.
 
Just got my Grainfather in the mail, controller screen seems to be damaged and not fully readable.

Question, when should the switch on the bottom (black portion) of the unit be on? Only when I'm heating or whenever I'm using the unit?

Thanks.
 
Just got my Grainfather in the mail, controller screen seems to be damaged and not fully readable.

Question, when should the switch on the bottom (black portion) of the unit be on? Only when I'm heating or whenever I'm using the unit?

Thanks.



Leave it on. Controller takes care of the power application.
 
Anyone do a killer Pilsner on their Grainfather here? I know there's a few on the connect cloud but just looking to narrow things down...

Pilsner are easy, they are basically SMASH. You don't need a recipe.


100% Pilsner Malt
Noble hops at 60min. and 15 min.
1.050 OG
30-35 IBU's
Lager yeast (W-34/70 is cheap and easy)
 
So i picked up a grainfather a few weeks back. I wanted to simplify my process and have a smaller footprint due to lack of extra space. Man, this thing was a breeze to use. Zero problems from mash to chill. No problem with the boil. If i work on my clean up process i bet i can fit a brew day in under 4 1/2 hours. This thing may have just put the spark back in my home brewing.
 
So i picked up a grainfather a few weeks back. I wanted to simplify my process and have a smaller footprint due to lack of extra space. Man, this thing was a breeze to use. Zero problems from mash to chill. No problem with the boil. If i work on my clean up process i bet i can fit a brew day in under 4 1/2 hours. This thing may have just put the spark back in my home brewing.

My last batch had a 4 hour "brew day" including the cleaning. Well, I cheated, a little, by having the water measured and prepped, grains conditioned and milled, and delay timer set for strike temp reached when I got home from work.

The cleaning is a no-brainer as there is enough down-time during the brew to get everything, other than the main vessel cleaned.

The biggest "delays" are the strike heat, the sparge, and the bring-to-boil. I'm thinking of getting a heat stick to assist with getting the boil temp sooner.
 
Just ordered the new cover for my grainfather. Make it look purdy in the garage when not in use.
 
So i picked up a grainfather a few weeks back. I wanted to simplify my process and have a smaller footprint due to lack of extra space. Man, this thing was a breeze to use. Zero problems from mash to chill. No problem with the boil. If i work on my clean up process i bet i can fit a brew day in under 4 1/2 hours. This thing may have just put the spark back in my home brewing.

4 1/2 hours is definitely doable. CONGRATS on the purchase of your GF!:mug:
 
So I documented my grainfather brew day. Please give me any pointers to improve efficiency or shorten my brew day. Aside from a grainfather with a connect control box. I am using a 5 gallon pot with a cheap hot plate and inkbird thermostat. The whole process takes 6 hours total. But really only 4.5 hours if I ignore the day prior setup and the time it takes to come up to mash temp. Here is my brew day:

The night before brew day. (40 mins)

· Set up wheeled workbench with sparge pot on top of platform and burner, place thermostat near pot.

· Calculate recipe and input to Grainfather app/website.

· Rinse out Grainfather and sparge pot and fill with calculated mash and sparge volumes

o 10 lb grain bill, 5.5 gallon fermenter quantity, and 60 minute boil came out to 4.16 gallons of mash water and 3.36 gallons of sparge water.

· Place "trub trap" in Grainfather and put lid on top.


Brew Day

· As soon as you wake up/get home turn on Sparge hot plate and Grainfather, start recipe and let water come to temp. (50 mins)

· Stirred in grains, put on recirculation pipe and set to mash.

· Mashed with recirculation valve full open for 60 minutes

· After automatic mash-out at 168, sparge at 168.

· As soon as you lift the grain bin above to drain, manually turn on the heat to boil.

· Sparge occurred quickly and I tried to keep a level of water above the grain bed at all times (maybe half an inch or so). Next time I’ll try a slower sparge for better efficiency. Efficiency was calculated at 80%

· Place sparge water thermostat probe in sanitizer.

· After sparging and draining complete, take a preboil reading of gravity and volume, then put the lid back on with a towel on top to help it get to temp.

· Connect the counter-flow chiller.

· Clean everything as soon as you can, and set up sanitized materials and fermenter while the boil is taking place.

· During the last few minutes of the boil, place the silicon output hose of the counter-flow chiller in the wort and clamp in the direction of the "whirlpool" soon to come.

· After the boil with associated hop additions, kill the boil and turn on the pump. The water is still plenty hot to sanitize the counter flow chiller, while using your paddle to get a good whirlpool going.

· As soon as whirlpooling with the paddle is complete, clean it and place it in sanitizer

· Take a gravity and volume reading

· After 5 minutes of whirlpool, consider the counter-flow chiller sanitized and start the cooling water into the counter-flow chiller, give it another 10-15 minutes or whirlpooling, while cooing the wort back into the Grainfather. Collect the now heated counter-flow chiller water for cleaning later.

· After about 15-20 total minutes of whirlpool, place the temp probe from the sparge water thermostats into the counter-flow chiller output hose and place the whole thing into the fermenter. Adjust the Grainfather pump valve to reach a suitable temp. During a cold night, the valve was completely open and the output wort was 75 degrees, the Grainfather read the temp as 165 still.

· After all is transferred, use sanitized paddle to aerate wort, sprinkle yeast, close up and place in fermentation chamber.

· Rinse everything out and pour hot counter-flow chiller water back into Grainfather, mix in cleaner, turn pump and heat on (140 degrees) and let cycle for about 15 minutes. Pump out and give it all a good scrub then rinse.

· 4.5 hours from temps to full clean up.

IMG_4812.JPG
 
I love this thing. Normally, I'm super into my brew day standing by the grainfather every second of the day and taking notes. Today, I had a really relaxed brew day and it went great. Heated strike water around 12pm, mashed in a few hours and just let it go while I watched the Texans game, cold sparged at half time, brought up to boil and periodically checked on it to add hops/chocolate additions (it was a porter). Chilled after the game was over.
 
· As soon as you wake up/get home turn on Sparge hot plate and Grainfather, start recipe and let water come to temp. (50 mins)

Why not use the super handy delay timer to heat strike (mash) water. Would cut even more time off essentially.
 
Good call. I don’t get home at a normal time though. But I will definitely start using for weekend brews.
 
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