Grainfather!!

[PCL]

I'd also like to have a sightglass. It would be easier while sparging.

I took a wooden doll rod, marked it to 4, 5, 6, 7 gallons. I just dip it while sparging and know exactly where I'm at

 

[PCL]

Interested to see what you all do:

I've done 6 brew days on GF. Love it but also looking at how to improve. Do you all heat your mash water to desired temp and dough in? Or do you heat water to a temp above anticipating that grain will lower temp and THEN drop your set temp to the desired mash temp?

What thickness of mash do you use (quarts per pound)?

TIA

 

[RedlegEd]

Interested to see what you all do:

I've done 6 brew days on GF. Love it but also looking at how to improve. Do you all heat your mash water to desired temp and dough in? Or do you heat water to a temp above anticipating that grain will lower temp and THEN drop your set temp to the desired mash temp?

What thickness of mash do you use (quarts per pound)?

TIA

Hi. To your first question, I usually heat the entire batch of water (mash & sparge) to about 6-8°F above mash in temp to account for initial heat loss. I then pump off the sparge amount into a 5 gal cooler, and then adjust my water chemistry as needed.
To your second question, I use a tweaked variation of the original mash/sparge formula, so my mash thickness is about 1.37-1.4 qts/lb. Hope that helps. Ed

 

[MrHoppy]

My solution to mounting the connect controller to the Grainfather. I wasn't comfortable with the fitment and the SS holder, as the holder turned more into a shelf. After trying a few different options, I finally just used my dremel and filed off the bottom two plastic nipples/tabs off the back of the connect controller, making them flush with the case - problem solved. SS holder holds the connect tight, nothing is going anywhere, and it can all be taken down for thorough cleaning, if necessary.

 

[PCL]

Hi. To your first question, I usually heat the entire batch of water (mash & sparge) to about 6-8°F above mash in temp to account for initial heat loss. I then pump off the sparge amount into a 5 gal cooler, and then adjust my water chemistry as needed.
To your second question, I use a tweaked variation of the original mash/sparge formula, so my mash thickness is about 1.37-1.4 qts/lb. Hope that helps. Ed

That confirms what I was thinking about altering my approach.

Thanks!

 

[Joe_K]

I've been making great beer with the GF and the old controller. Do you think the new controller will make better beer? The GF is already easier than my old cooler mashtun propane boil setup. Money is not an issue I just haven't had problems with the old controller.

 

[MrHoppy]

I've been making great beer with the GF and the old controller. Do you think the new controller will make better beer? The GF is already easier than my old cooler mashtun propane boil setup. Money is not an issue I just haven't had problems with the old controller.

I just got my connect controller mounted and paired with phone. My expectations are not better beer, just easier. Being able to set the timer to heat strike water, that will save me 45 minutes. plus, a mash out can be automatically set, no need to manually adjust. For me, I am happy I bought it, but I may not feel that way if it doesn't do what I think it will do.

 

[jczippy]

I've been making great beer with the GF and the old controller. Do you think the new controller will make better beer? The GF is already easier than my old cooler mashtun propane boil setup. Money is not an issue I just haven't had problems with the old controller.

Better beer? Probably not. All about more convenience for me. Nice to do the delayed start at times, and not having to watch for the temp to hit your target before you start your timer at your various stages. Less switches you have to remember to change too. Importing recipes means that both your phone and the Connect give you an alert at your stages and additions so you're less likely to miss something. The PID temp control means there is a lot less variation on the temp shown as well. Overall I am definitely happy with the upgrade.

 

[tygerman]

First New England Style IPA featuring haullertau Blanc and azacca hops.

 

[blkandrust]

I condition my grains and mill at a Barley Crusher gap of .038 with a handfull of rice hulls. Usually takes about 30ish minutes for all the sparge water to be added and I hit 80 - 85% efficiency. I'll just let it drain until close to boil.

I adjusted my crush to slightly smaller than credit card width.Made a world of difference. Sparge was a lot slower and I hit 85% efficiency.Brown was supposed to have an OG of 1.058,came in at 1.072

 

[newfiebrew]

Citrus wit. Loving it!
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1492302981.048479.jpg

 

[gotbeer74]

First run this morning with the new controller and the pump button does not turn the pump on. I have the old controller sitting on the floor to control the pump at this point.

 

[Kampenken]

Citrus wit. Loving it!
View attachment 396764

You transfer with your hop basket still in the boiler? Never thought of that. I always pull it out early on. Any reason? Additional hop utilization you're going for, or just never thought about not doing it that way?! I figure want to drain it while it's pumping.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

My solution to mounting the connect controller to the Grainfather. I wasn't comfortable with the fitment and the SS holder, as the holder turned more into a shelf. After trying a few different options, I finally just used my dremel and filed off the bottom two plastic nipples/tabs off the back of the connect controller, making them flush with the case - problem solved. SS holder holds the connect tight, nothing is going anywhere, and it can all be taken down for thorough cleaning, if necessary.

I was going to do the exact same thing. Only problem was that I didn't know if it would void my warranty. Glad to know it actually worked before I went and tested it on mine. Lol

 

[newfiebrew]

You transfer with your hop basket still in the boiler? Never thought of that. I always pull it out early on. Any reason? Additional hop utilization you're going for, or just never thought about not doing it that way?! I figure want to drain it while it's pumping.

Yeah first time doing that. I figured I'd just dunk the hops,orange peel and lemongrass in the spider as it was draining. Sorta like dipping a big teabag...lol. Figured maybe I'd draw a little extra flavor out of it.

 

[club206]

How w many people here are getting the new controller vs the old one? Is it best to wait maybe until the new controller is standard equipment ? Thinking of getting the grainfather but can wait a bit. Thanks!!!

 

[MGBBob80]

How w many people here are getting the new controller vs the old one? Is it best to wait maybe until the new controller is standard equipment ? Thinking of getting the grainfather but can wait a bit. Thanks!!!

Lots of good feedback on the new controller, but I'm still using the original and and absolutely love it. If you end up making the decision to go Grainfather, then I say GO! Don't wait for an upgrade that may or may not be coming.

 

[rossi46]

After using both controllers, I definitely prefer the new one. Being able to control from my phone is really handy.

 

[MGBBob80]

The mashing lower false bottom/silicon seal drives me nuts. Sometimes they go on first or second attempt. Sometimes it takes more tries. Today, I lost track at 20 or so attemps. A bit of strong language was used...

 

[rossi46]

That can be a challenge, I always give it a spray of star-san.

 

[redarmy990]

If any one on here is wanting to sell your old grainfather controller shoot me a pm with the price.

thanks

 

[MGBBob80]

That can be a challenge, I always give it a spray of star-san.

Yep - been there and done that. It's clear that the thing can be installed, but today was a particular challenge. I'd like to see some new design from GF down the road a bit.

 

[MGBBob80]

Tomorrow's brew will be an ESB that I have typically brewed using first wort hops (FWH).

When using my 3V system, I'd add the hops about 1/2 way through the sparge and then apply heat after the sparge was complete.

Any good lessons learned on adding FWH with the GF? In this case, I have both pellet and leaf in the appropriate quantity so it would be simple to adjust recipe for either type of hop.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on the subject!

 

[Minky]

The mashing lower false bottom/silicon seal drives me nuts. Sometimes they go on first or second attempt. Sometimes it takes more tries. Today, I lost track at 20 or so attemps. A bit of strong language was used...

My theory on why that gasket comes off so easily is due partially to the gasket having uneven tension around the circumference. I had been just pushing it on as I worked around the perimeter, then the last 5 or 6 inches would take some stretching to get it on.

After I started VERY slightly stretching the gasket as I put it on, the last few inches went on much easier and I had way fewer incidences of the gasket slipping off.

 

[MGBBob80]

After I started VERY slightly stretching the gasket as I put it on, the last few inches went on much easier and I had way fewer incidences of the gasket slipping off.

Good idea! We'll give it a try and see how it goes.

 

[skraeling]

The mashing lower false bottom/silicon seal drives me nuts. Sometimes they go on first or second attempt. Sometimes it takes more tries. Today, I lost track at 20 or so attemps. A bit of strong language was used...

I take the super lazy way and just reinsert it in my sink (post cleaning) and occasionally use the hose sprayer next to it slides right down.

Leave it out to dry off store back in the GF.

 

[d-bone]

funny you should mention this... I just used mine for the first time last weekend, and also had a pretty bad stuck sparge. I was using about 30% rye which was milled finer than the rest, and this may have caused it, but I dont know if I am going back to using the extra screen. The miniscule amount of grain particle that gets through without it is not worth this much trouble. I have thought about putting an extra domed false bottom down, as someone else here has done, to see if that makes things better.

update: used the mesh again this week and added a 10" domed false bottom . this seemed to work a lot better, and I had no problems with stuck sparge, and have close to no grain at all in my wort. anything that was there i assume probably went down the overflow

 

[dklaman]

Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences in this thread. It was very helpful in making my decision to buy a GF. Placed my order today.

 

[tygerman]

You won't regret it. Even having a few issues with my first few brews, they have been the best tasting I have ever made! Previously used extracts. Used rice hulls for the first time in a 50% wheat brew. Was running full throttle without a drop down the overflow after 20 minutes.

 

[joyride75]

Let's see if I can explain this the easiest way possible.

I'm using the 120v Grainfather, and up until recently was using the old controller. I always thought the boil on this version was decent, but bought a 1500w heatstick from brewhardware.com just to see how that would change anything. The problem was that using the 1500w with the "mash/low" heat setting didn't do much. Using it with the "normal" setting was wayyyyyy too powerful. And that meant I had to flick the boil switch on to get it rolling, and then switch it off when it got crazy.

And in comes the Grainfather connect control box. I'd planned on buying it either way(because the flip cover on the old box was dumb and not waterproof), but I was under the impression that I could set the connect at an exact certain percentage of the maximum power(say, 86% or whatever), and that would solve my need to hover over the GF while boiling in order to flick the boil switch on/off. But, after brewing a few times, it's not like that at all. It seems it's still a function of the temperature. Sure, the percentage on the right side of the box is there, but I can't dial it exactly where I want it. If I have it set to boil, it's 100%. If I toggle the button down, it goes to 211°F and the % goes to 86% (or something close). If I toggle it down again, it jumps way down 210°F and the % goes way down to something like 25%.

So...I'm guessing there's no way to manually dial the output of the burner to an exact percentage(like a potentiometer), and the percentage on the right side is only related to the temp I set it at, huh? Or did I miss something in the app that would do this?

 

[tygerman]

I read in the Facebook grainfather group that you can edit the boiling temperature in the APP. Some were commenting that they were boiling at 213 and it was too much. They lowered the setting in the app to 211 degrees. I guess it is baked into the app to account for elevation. Not sure if this is IOS only or Android too.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

How do you guys do fwh in the grainfather. I am designing a pineapple IPA that I'm going to brew next week and keep playing around with the hop schedule. It's it will be all citra and mosaic hops. I just wasn't sure how you'd feel in the grain father. My best guess is instead of starting the boil when I start to Sparge, just leave the temp off and throw the hops into the mash tun. Then when sparging is over turn the heat back on? Any suggestions? I do have the new controller and this will be my first time using it.

 

[tjosborne]

I throw them in when I lift the basket.

 

[cowfodder]

How do you guys do fwh in the grainfather. I am designing a pineapple IPA that I'm going to brew next week and keep playing around with the hop schedule. It's it will be all citra and mosaic hops. I just wasn't sure how you'd feel in the grain father. My best guess is instead of starting the boil when I start to Sparge, just leave the temp off and throw the hops into the mash tun. Then when sparging is over turn the heat back on? Any suggestions? I do have the new controller and this will be my first time using it.

I just dump them in through the gap between the basket and the boiler during the sparge.

 

[MGBBob80]

How do you guys do fwh in the grainfather. I am designing a pineapple IPA that I'm going to brew next week and keep playing around with the hop schedule. It's it will be all citra and mosaic hops. I just wasn't sure how you'd feel in the grain father. My best guess is instead of starting the boil when I start to Sparge, just leave the temp off and throw the hops into the mash tun. Then when sparging is over turn the heat back on? Any suggestions? I do have the new controller and this will be my first time using it.

I worked on this last week. Pulled the basket for the sparge, threw the hops in (had a helper hold the basket up) and then started the sparge. I commenced heatup for the boil as soon as the FWH hops were in and was at 195 or so when the sparge was complete.

 

[RedlegEd]

Hi all. I ordered the new Connects controller in February and finally got it in. Before I start using it, I was wondering if folks using the new controller have noticed a difference in the vigor of the boil? Right now, I'm using 0.5 gal/hour as a boil off factor (elevation 381' AMSL,) but will that change with the new controller? Thanks! Ed

 

[skraeling]

Hi all. I ordered the new Connects controller in February and finally got it in. Before I start using it, I was wondering if folks using the new controller have noticed a difference in the vigor of the boil? Right now, I'm using 0.5 gal/hour as a boil off factor (elevation 381' AMSL,) but will that change with the new controller? Thanks! Ed

unless the size of your element has changed it cant make it boil better.

 

[jschein]

Let's see if I can explain this the easiest way possible.

I'm using the 120v Grainfather, and up until recently was using the old controller. I always thought the boil on this version was decent, but bought a 1500w heatstick from brewhardware.com just to see how that would change anything. The problem was that using the 1500w with the "mash/low" heat setting didn't do much. Using it with the "normal" setting was wayyyyyy too powerful. And that meant I had to flick the boil switch on to get it rolling, and then switch it off when it got crazy.

And in comes the Grainfather connect control box. I'd planned on buying it either way(because the flip cover on the old box was dumb and not waterproof), but I was under the impression that I could set the connect at an exact certain percentage of the maximum power(say, 86% or whatever), and that would solve my need to hover over the GF while boiling in order to flick the boil switch on/off. But, after brewing a few times, it's not like that at all. It seems it's still a function of the temperature. Sure, the percentage on the right side of the box is there, but I can't dial it exactly where I want it. If I have it set to boil, it's 100%. If I toggle the button down, it goes to 211°F and the % goes to 86% (or something close). If I toggle it down again, it jumps way down 210°F and the % goes way down to something like 25%.

So...I'm guessing there's no way to manually dial the output of the burner to an exact percentage(like a potentiometer), and the percentage on the right side is only related to the temp I set it at, huh? Or did I miss something in the app that would do this?

You leave the switch at normal, the controller will control the output percentage. It is all based on temperature

 

[BrewinSoldier]

I am brewing a beer today(going to be a very late brew day since I don't have Citra and have 2 hours of driving to go get some), and using my new connect controller.

I've made my recipe on the grainfather recipe creator website. I'm a little confused on how to transfer the recipe over to the controller. I have an Android phone so I know the app isn't working yet, but can I still transfer the recipe from the website to the controller somehow or am I SOL until grainfather get their damn Android app finally working?

 

[RedlegEd]

unless the size of your element has changed it cant make it boil better.

Hi. Thanks. My gut told me that, but I had doubts when I read the Tech Specs (see below,) where I might have thought the old controller was limiting the power output. Now, in retrospect, I think once you flip the switch to "Boil" mode in the old controller, it goes straight to the element. Ed