Grain mill- easy adjustments and accurate settings

[SanPancho]

Have a three roller mill that does a solid job, but it’s a pain to adjust. I want to swap for a new mill that is 1) easy to adjust, and 2) fairly accurate, or at least reliable, settings.

Preference overall is easy adjustment. Have been brewing a lot of beers with rye and wheat and my efficiencies have been all over the place. I’d been relying on running those twice through the mill but that doesn’t seem to work like I hoped it would. Seems as though frequent adjustments are what I need, so would like to prioritize that.

Thx

 

[day_trippr]

When I bought my first mill I found changing the gap to accommodate malted wheat or oats then having to re-gap again for barley sent my mash efficiencies all over the place. Sometimes they were exceptional, other times disappointing. So when that mill wore out enough that it only worked in reverse I set it up for those skinnier grains and set my new mill exclusively for barley. Made a huge difference wrt consistency and I'll never go back to a single mill...

Cheers!

 

[Willy]

I finally got a Spike Mill and really love it. Yeah - it costs a bunch but it is well made and the way you adjust the gap is quite brilliant. A BIG knob, that is somewhat hard to turn (done this way on purpose so it stays locked at that setting) can adjust quickly and is very precise and repeatable.

Since I expect it to last a lifetime - I get to amortize the cost over a few decades. I hope.

 

[SanPancho]

Hh

 

[SanPancho]

Hh

When I bought my first mill I found changing the gap to accommodate malted wheat or oats then having to re-gap again for barley sent my mash efficiencies all over the place. Sometimes they were exceptional, other times disappointing. So when that mill wore out enough that it only worked in reverse I set it up for those skinnier grains and set my new mill exclusively for barley. Made a huge difference wrt consistency and I'll never go back to a single mill...

Cheers!

Unfortunately I’m in the mode of trying to reduce my brewing footprint so while thats a great idea, it’s probably not gonna work for me. Although I am putting all my gear on two carts, so it could be possible. I guess it depends on if I can reuse the hopper, mount, etc

 

[SanPancho]

I finally got a Spike Mill and really love it. Yeah - it costs a bunch but it is well made and the way you adjust the gap is quite brilliant. A BIG knob, that is somewhat hard to turn (done this way on purpose so it stays locked at that setting) can adjust quickly and is very precise and repeatable.

Since I expect it to last a lifetime - I get to amortize the cost over a few decades. I hope.

Well it does look nice. Not sure I’m ready to drop that cash though. That is definitely premium purchase

 

[sdbbp]

Consider an easier to adjust/set 2-roller. My ignorance of what I might be missing without gears or a third roller is (currently) bliss. I re-check mine for every batch using feeler gauges I keep with the mill. It might take me a minute or two.

 

[SanPancho]

Consider an easier to adjust/set 2-roller. My ignorance of what I might be missing without gears or a third roller is (currently) bliss. I re-check mine for every batch using feeler gauges I keep with the mill. It might take me a minute or two.

that's exactly what i'm thinking. but you're taking about checking the gap. im talking about changing it.

big issue is that when it comes to setting/changing the gap there's not much to be found online about how easy one mill is vs another. mine requires you take off the hopper which is a pain. daytripper mentioned getting a cheap second mill for rye/wheat/etc but im trying to downsize currently, so cant commit to that.

but if i found a cheap second that also worked with my current hopper then i'd consider it. unfortunately i dont think there's a way to know if the hopper is compatible across mills without physically having it in front of you...

 

[sdbbp]

but you're taking about checking the gap. im talking about changing it.

I'm not familiar with others, but the monster mill I use doesn't require removing the hopper. Loosen two thumb screws, pick out the feeler gauge, adjust the knurled knobs on both ends to be tight against it, tighten the thumb screws, verify the gap on each side by pushing the gauge through.

If I was concerned about milling wheat separately, it'd be fine to adjust.

Similar to this process, but in my case the set screws have thumb ends.

 

[micraftbeer]

I've got a Monster Mill 3- roller and I love it. I can get all my kernels cracked for high efficiency without getting stuck mash. That said, I can relate to your comments about wheat and rye.

This discussion game me an idea, though. I don't want to adjust with feelers every time I use wheat and rye. Main reason is the hassle of the feeler gage. But really what I need to do is find something to make a marking on my adjustment knob (probably permanent marker) at my current gap. Then figure out a good generic gap for wheat and rye through some grain experiments and the feeler gauges, and then mark that. Then I just back off the set screws and adjust the knobs based on the grain I have in there. No need for the feeler gauge every time.

Probably not as easy as the Spike knob sounds, but avoids the main pain point of dorking around with feeler gauges all the time. And keep that $ in my pocket!

 

[hottpeper13]

I have a 10 gal 3 vessel system that is just too big for 5 gal batches. I went to BIAB 1 vessel or 2 if step mashing. In order to NOT have to change the settings from BIAB to bazooka screen tun I got a bag to fit my 15 gal cooler and just mill at .025. Also conditioning them helps keep the husks intact.

 

[SanPancho]

I've got a Monster Mill 3- roller and I love it. I can get all my kernels cracked for high efficiency without getting stuck mash. That said, I can relate to your comments about wheat and rye.

This discussion game me an idea, though. I don't want to adjust with feelers every time I use wheat and rye. Main reason is the hassle of the feeler gage. But really what I need to do is find something to make a marking on my adjustment knob (probably permanent marker) at my current gap. Then figure out a good generic gap for wheat and rye through some grain experiments and the feeler gauges, and then mark that. Then I just back off the set screws and adjust the knobs based on the grain I have in there. No need for the feeler gauge every time.

Probably not as easy as the Spike knob sounds, but avoids the main pain point of dorking around with feeler gauges all the time. And keep that $ in my pocket!

I think maybe you’re on the right track.

 

[SanPancho]

I'm not familiar with others, but the monster mill I use doesn't require removing the hopper. Loosen two thumb screws, pick out the feeler gauge, adjust the knurled knobs on both ends to be tight against it, tighten the thumb screws, verify the gap on each side by pushing the gauge through.

If I was concerned about milling wheat separately, it'd be fine to adjust.

Similar to this process, but in my case the set screws have thumb ends.

The issue is that mine is setup in a milling “station” so to speak, so it’s not as easy as twerking the thumbscrews. I need to do some disassembly to get access to the bottom.