Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion

[IffyG]

I'm almost done with only 1 step remaining. I need to drill a hole for the CO2 line. I'd like to drill it on the top of the 'hump' in the fridge.
One person said they hit a line, so I'm hesitant to do so.
Does anyone know if there are lines running along the 'hump' or step inside the fridge?

Thanks in advance

I pulled the drain plug and filed it a little bit to slip the CO2 line through the hump. Seemed to work well enough for me.

 

[mforsman]

Never Mind. I found it after a long session of reading about 20 threads on the topic.

Thanks for bringing this to the last few pages of the thread. I had one of these fridges for a kegorator and just picked up a second to use as a fermentation fridge. This diagram helped me do it easily!

Just a heads up, one of the local shops (aj madison) said this fridge was discontinued but it was still in stock at many best buy's. The price has also increased since the first time i bought one. Hopefully they keep this model around since it's so easy to convert.

 

[SHHHHHHH]

I had to create an account to give back to this thread. So this is my first post because i was so happy with:

2 five gallon kegs, 1 three gallon keg, 1 5lb CO2 tank inside. 1 copper pipe around 3 beer lines, that runs inside fridge and into tower. Triple perlick creamer faucets. Have had all kegs with beer in them for about a month now. Stays cold. The first pour is always a bit foamy, but nothing serious.

 

[bigken462]

I'll be starting a mod on this model of fridge next Tuesday when my tower gets here. I'm still trying to decide on a few things.

1. Where is the most ideal and functional place on top to mount the tower? I've seen them in the back, in the middle, in the front etc. I'm leaning toward the back third.

2. I've seen several methods of cooling the tower. Is a cooling fan and hose coil preferred, or running the lines through some copper tubing?

3. I ordered a 3" double faucet from keg connections. I still need to buy the hole cutter. Am I to assume if I use a cooling fan that I will also need a 3" hole

4. I plan on using some 1/2 inch plywood between the foam and plastic top to reinforce the base. What is the best method of attaching the tower? Secure to the wood, or bolting all the way through?

5. Can anyone recommend some some specific types of adhesive and spray foam that I will need to pick up?

6. Suggestions for any other tools, tricks, supplies or ideas to make this project easier.

Thanks in advance,

Kenny

 

[Brewer_Chad]

I got a firestone, and a ball lock keg inside mine. I had to move the light and thermostat though. Did you guys have any problem adjusting the temp after moving the thermostat?


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[DesignatedDrinker]

Dont forget to seal the drain port and freezer door screw holes with some caulk or silicone so you dont get condensation build up!!!

 

[Brewer_Chad]

After putting my new keg in and moving my thermostat it is now holding at 41 degrees, on the very lowest, way before 1. It was at 45 on 1 before the conversion. Is this normal?


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[zacster]

I left my fridge intact, taking out all the easily remove shelves and things, but leaving the door as is, and I can ferment 5.5 gallon batches of lager using 2 3gallon Better Bottles, which are square, and my external STC1000. I only have one keg so I don't know if I could fit 2 with the door that way. I still use a picnic tap on my keg, although I've wanted to try something different, but was also thinking of a movable mounted tap that stayed inside.

Pics are HERE

 

[DesignatedDrinker]

After putting my new keg in and moving my thermostat it is now holding at 41 degrees, on the very lowest, way before 1. It was at 45 on 1 before the conversion. Is this normal?


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Not to insult your intelligence but usually the higher number is cooler and the lower number is hotter. At least on my frigidaire minifridge. Could be different for your setup.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

Not to insult your intelligence but usually the higher number is cooler and the lower number is hotter. At least on my frigidaire minifridge. Could be different for your setup.

Not insulting at all. I have had this fridge for a few years now, and on 5 it froze my beer lines with one keg in it. On 1 it held at 40-45 degrees depending on the heat in my garage. I'm thinking of getting this STC1000 controller off eBay for $15 but I'm scared of wiring this thing not something in familiar with.


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[DesignatedDrinker]

Not insulting at all. I have had this fridge for a few years now, and on 5 it froze my beer lines with one keg in it. On 1 it held at 40-45 degrees depending on the heat in my garage. I'm thinking of getting this STC1000 controller off eBay for $15 but I'm scared of wiring this thing not something in familiar with.


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Its not scary at all. Theres tons of tutorials online showing how to build those. I made one before, didnt take much effort or time at all. But your fridge gets really cold! Mine on the lowest setting holds around 29-32. Beer wont freeze till around 28.

 

[DoubleEh]

After putting my new keg in and moving my thermostat it is now holding at 41 degrees, on the very lowest, way before 1. It was at 45 on 1 before the conversion. Is this normal?


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It seems logical that moving the thermostat to a relatively colder spot in the fridge and blocking air circulation with 2 kegs would cause parts of the fridge to be warmer on the same thermostat setting.


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[zacster]

Yea, it is pretty easy to wire it up. The harder part is finding a box and then cutting the holes believe it or not. It works like a charm once you have it up and running. I set my fridge to 6 and it stays within .3 degrees celsius of the setting on the controller. If you measure the liquid temp, rather than the air temp, it stays pretty steady.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

How do you measure the liquid temp?


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[zacster]

You can put a volume of liquid in the fridge and insert the probe if all you care about is stability. If you are looking to measure a specific liquid that may be generating its own heat, such as a fermenting beer, you would want to put the probe up against the bottle and insulate it from the air with some foam. In my case I had 2 bottles, both somewhat flexible plastic, and I stuck the probe between the 2 pressed together. You probably don't want to insert the probe in the beer itself though due to risk of contamination.

When I had the probe in the air, every time I opened the door the temp would jump and the fridge would turn on.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

It seems logical that moving the thermostat to a relatively colder spot in the fridge and blocking air circulation with 2 kegs would cause parts of the fridge to be warmer on the same thermostat setting.

I was thinking the same thing, but it defiantly had the opposite effect on mine. Maybe it's because I didn't pull the temperature wire deal completely out of the plastic sheathing when moving it behind the keg? I just bent it back some; it didn't looked kinked to me though.

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[Brewer_Chad]

Not to insult your intelligence but usually the higher number is cooler and the lower number is hotter. At least on my frigidaire minifridge. Could be different for your setup.

I figured what the hell couldn't hurt to check. Turned it up to 3 and was at 31 degrees in 4 hours today, turned it back down to 1 so I'll keep it there; it was at 34 degrees on below 1 after 24 hours so hopefully it will stay there and not freeze until I can get the new thermostat.


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[Brewer_Chad]

You can put a volume of liquid in the fridge and insert the probe if all you care about is stability. If you are looking to measure a specific liquid that may be generating its own heat, such as a fermenting beer, you would want to put the probe up against the bottle and insulate it from the air with some foam. In my case I had 2 bottles, both somewhat flexible plastic, and I stuck the probe between the 2 pressed together. You probably don't want to insert the probe in the beer itself though due to risk of contamination.

When I had the probe in the air, every time I opened the door the temp would jump and the fridge would turn on.

Let me be sure I understand this diagram. The black wire will need a splitter and and then go to 1 and 7? White goes to 2 and blue goes to 8? The sensor that comes with it goes in 3 and 4; are the wires coded to which side they go to? All other are simply capped off? This works with Microcomputer Temperature Controller STC-1000 Kitchenware with 220VAC Sensor correct? What gauge wire did you use? Anything I missed or any other suggestions to help me with this project is appreciated. I think I'm either going to cut a hole in the door and put it in there, or just lay it down on the compressor hump. Thanks for everyone's help.

http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachm...sion-stc-1000-20wiring-20for-20frigidaire.jpg

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[DoubleEh]

Let me be sure I understand this diagram. The black wire will need a splitter and and then go to 1 and 7? White goes to 2 and blue goes to 8? The sensor that comes with it goes in 3 and 4; are the wires coded to which side they go to? All other are simply capped off? This works with Microcomputer Temperature Controller STC-1000 Kitchenware with 220VAC Sensor correct? What gauge wire did you use? Anything I missed or any other suggestions to help me with this project is appreciated. I think I'm either going to cut a hole in the door and put it in there, or just lay it down on the compressor hump. Thanks for everyone's help.

http://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/attachm...sion-stc-1000-20wiring-20for-20frigidaire.jpg

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You're in the US, so you want the 110VAC model.

 

[DesignatedDrinker]

I figured what the hell couldn't hurt to check. Turned it up to 3 and was at 31 degrees in 4 hours today, turned it back down to 1 so I'll keep it there; it was at 34 degrees on below 1 after 24 hours so hopefully it will stay there and not freeze until I can get the new thermostat.


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Sounds good.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

You're in the US, so you want the 110VAC model.

Docooler 10A 110V Digital Temperature Controller Thermocouple -58~194 Fahrenheit with Sensor
http://amzn.com/B00F05UI8O

This one should work right?


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[zacster]

That one would work.

You must have quoted the wrong response. I didn't mod my fridge, I built an external unit, and in fact avoided doing anything to my fridge that wasn't reversible. But good luck with doing the mod, I'd be interested to see how it goes.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

I got the temp controller today. Cut a hole put it in fridge, wired it according to previously posted diagram, and nothing not a light. However compressor kicks on. Here is the diagram that comes with it. Please help have a hole in fridge, and I need this to work.


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[Brewer_Chad]

I found a dude that put these instructions up, but they use a extension cord not the compressor.

Disclaimer: I am posting this as a guide for anyone else like me that has 0 electrical experience but might have played with other crafts in the past. Not responsible for electrocution. This is my interpretation of many other blogs, pictures, and with the supervision of family electricians. My device is working and is safe.

Materials
a chest freezer, preferably a 5-ish cubic ft one. (will not suffer any damage)
3 prong extension cord, preferably a short 6 or 9 ft
thermostat from Amazon- remove the back cover to work by taking out the screw
wire strippers
electrical tape
awesome scissors
tiny flathead screw driver

1. Pull the thermometer wire in 2 about a half inch (came with thermostat)
2. put one end of each of the split wires into ports 5 and 6
3. Use the tiny screw driver to clamp down on the wires

4. CUT THE EXTENSION CORD IN HALF (yes, it's scary and weird)
5. Place the pronged end to your right and the female (receptor of a plug) end to the left
6. strip the outer extension cord off about 6 inches from the cut on both sides, exposing 3 wires on each side

(working with only that 3 inch piece you just cut)
7. cut about 3 inches of black wire from the right side.
8. use the wire stripper tool or scissors to expose the copper wire right in the middle
9. work the black wire apart on both sides so that about 1/4 inch of wire is exposed in the middle
10. strip off 1/4 inch of black rubber, exposing the wire on either side
11. twist the ends tight and clamp them into ports 1 and 3

at this point you have the thermostat with 3 wires in the ports and 3 ports free

12. pick up the pronged side of the extension cord
13. strip off about 3/4 inch of the rubber from the black cord
14. wrap the exposed copper of the black wire from pronged extension cord around the exposed middle of the 3 inch strip that is secured into the thermostat. twist it around itself
15. use electrical tape to cover any of the exposed wire on the black (now y-shaped) wire that is attached from the pronged side to the thermostat
16. strip off 1/4 inch of the only free black wire left (the one on the female side of the extension chord)
17. twist, insert, and secure the free black wire into port 2
18. Strip off 3 inches of each white wire from both sides of the cut extension chord
19. twist together the 3 inches of exposed wire creating a Y facing away from you
20. wrap the exposed wire with electrical tape except for the last 1/4 inch of this joined wire.
21. insert the tip of the exposed /wrapped white wire into port 4 and secure.

At this point you have two cut green wires, and all of the ports have been filled. You are wondering what to do with the last wires.

22. strip off an inch from both sides of the green wire.
23. twist the green wires together to "rejoin" them in a strait line.
24. Cover the twisted and exposed green wire with electrical tape.
25. cover anything copper that's still exposed with more electrical tape.
26. make absolutely sure NONE of the copper wire from black/white/green is exposed or touching any other color of wire other than it's own color. NO CROSSING STREAMS (ghostbusters)

You're done assembling!

Plug the pronged end of your extension cord into the wall
Insert the thermometer into the chest freezer.
Plug the freezer into the female end of your extension cord.

Play with the settings till its on "cool" instead of "heat"
Use electrical tape to keep that sucker on the lid.
put it at a temp you want.

Watch significant other be in awe of you!



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[ClaudiusB]

I got the temp controller today. Cut a hole put it in fridge, wired it according to previously posted diagram, and nothing not a light. However compressor kicks on. Here is the diagram that comes with it. Please help have a hole in fridge, and I need this to work. View attachment 201325View attachment 201323


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First thing I would do, connect the black and white wire to terminals 3& 4 as per your diagram.
The controller has to powerup.
After controller powers up connect a black wire to terminal 1 from the previous connected black wire terminal.
Connect the compressor wire to terminal 2
Connect the thermistor wires.

 

[Brewer_Chad]

I got a new one and it works. Black wire in fridge went to 1 and 3 on temp control, and white wire went to 4; while blue went to 2. It's working now, perfect beer temp.




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[Merconium]

Two months ago, the kegerator turned off and wouldn't start. Left it unplugged for a while, and it started up and ran until yesterday. Today it won't start, even after being unplugged all night. Plugging in triggers a "click" every 30s (irregular), but no motor start. It's a spring 2009 buildup, if I recall correctly.

Some quick searches revealed it's one of the two small electronic relays on the back: one is a motor protection circuit (B77-120); the other is a motor start relay, (QP2-4.7).

Has anyone with the same problem fixed it with one of said parts? If not, I'll buy both and return the one that doesn't need replacement.

 

[Merconium]

Two months ago, the kegerator turned off and wouldn't start. Left it unplugged for a while, and it started up and ran until yesterday. Today it won't start, even after being unplugged all night. Plugging in triggers a "click" every 30s (irregular), but no motor start. It's a spring 2009 buildup, if I recall correctly.

Some quick searches revealed it's one of the two small electronic relays on the back: one is a motor protection circuit (B77-120); the other is a motor start relay, (QP2-4.7).

Has anyone with the same problem fixed it with one of said parts? If not, I'll buy both and return the one that doesn't need replacement.

After finding out how to test the PTC relay (QP2-4.7), I bought a replacement from AppliancePartsPros. Came within a day and I've got a cold fridge again.

 

[SixDemonBag]

Hi. I'm in Australia. I can't get hold of this particular fridge, but want to find something similar.

Dies this look the goods?

Similar freezer setup

 

[63belair]

Looks good, but can't say anything without dimensions.

If you can see it in person, make trace the bottom of your kegs/fermenter on cardboard and cut out the circles. Bring them with you to see if you can fit what you want in the fridge. Also try doing some searching online and in this site for people who have used the same make/model fridge before to see what they were able to fit in it.

Good luck!

 

[Matteo57]

Is there an updated model that still works since lowes doesn't sell this frigidaire model any longer?

 

[YogiBeer]

Is there an updated model that still works since lowes doesn't sell this frigidaire model any longer?

Just saw an ad in a Lowes flyer today for a Frigidaire 4.5 cu ft model FFPE45L2QM for $149. IF and only if you can easily remove the freezer box by unscrewing it (no refrigerant) and the inside dimensions, particularly the bottom, will allow for kegs, you're in luck.
From the limited photos I've seen, it does look very similar to the one in this project, which I have. Let us know after you go look.

 

[NewDetroitBrewing]

I built this Frigidaire Keggerator and it lasted about a year and a half. I unplugged it for three weeks and it failed to cool when I plugged it back in. The compressor is running and I can hear freon moving through the coils. However, the output from the compressor is not cold.

Has anyone experienced this trouble or have some advice?

 

[ChiBrew]

Just saw an ad in a Lowes flyer today for a Frigidaire 4.5 cu ft model FFPE45L2QM for $149. IF and only if you can easily remove the freezer box by unscrewing it (no refrigerant) and the inside dimensions, particularly the bottom, will allow for kegs, you're in luck.
From the limited photos I've seen, it does look very similar to the one in this project, which I have. Let us know after you go look.

I am in the middle of converting the Frigidaire FFPE45l2QM and it has it's pros and cons:

PROS
There are no freezer coils under the freezer shelf, so you can cut it right out without cutting cooling lines.

CONS
There is no removable lid so you need to build and attach a custom countertop to mount the faucet tower to.

 

[WrkdbfGuy]

"There are no freezer coils under the freezer shelf, so you can cut it right out without cutting cooling lines"

Someone reviewed this exact mini fridge (Frigidaire FFPE45L2QM) on the Lowes website and said as follows:
"The freezer is not removable. The inside is a single cast unit and the cooling mechanism is in the bottom section of the freezer".

Seems to be a disconnect between what you and he are saying. I'd like to use this fridge as a Fermentation Chamber and I would certainly need to remove the freezer to fit my fermenter. Can you clarify a little? Will I be able to remove it so that my fermenter fits?

Thanks, Bill

 

[ChiBrew]

You can cut out the plastic freezer shelf with a Dremel. Here is mine:

 

[ChiBrew]

After working with this model, I think I would much rather have bought the model that has the removable plastic top, which would have been a cleaner installation. This model has one large piece of sheet metal that wraps around the sides and top of the fridge. I have to make a wood countertop to cover the exploratory hole I cut and to mount the faucet hardware.

 

[WrkdbfGuy]

After working with this model, I think I would much rather have bought the model that has the removable plastic top, which would have been a cleaner installation. This model has one large piece of sheet metal that wraps around the sides and top of the fridge. I have to make a wood countertop to cover the exploratory hole I cut and to mount the faucet hardware.

Wouldn't the tower assembly cover whatever exploratory hole you made?

 

[ChiBrew]

Wouldn't the tower assembly cover whatever exploratory hole you made?

It wouldn't be very stable because the exploratory hole was bigger than the tower mounting area. Im going to make a wood top for the kegerator and mount the tower to it.

 

[brian231]

I have a kegerator I built based on this fridge model a little over a year ago. The compressor runs now, but doesn't cool anymore.

I had a previous kegerator build based on this fridge and it died the same way. Has anyone else had the same problems? Any ideas of whether there is an easy repair?