Frigidaire Model FRC445GB Mini-Fridge Kegerator Conversion

[cheesecake]

Do 2 cornies fit in it like the original model. and the price went back to reular this morning so i thought the sale was over with

 

[snackson]

I just bought it at noon today for $145 plus tax. Two corney kegs fit as long as you move the thermostat out of the way. I'll post pictures later tonight.

 

[cheesecake]

I just bought it at noon today for $145 plus tax. Two corney kegs fit as long as you move the thermostat out of the way. I'll post pictures later tonight.

I did one of the FRC445GB conversions for my uncle i was just making sure with the new inner parts of the door it would still work. im ordering one tonight and im picking it up tomorrow

 

[snackson]

The door needs to be modified a little bit but it works fine. Hooked my Auber PID up to it a few minutes ago after I put the dual tap tower on. Going to tackle the door tomorrow and I'll post pictures.

 

[cheesecake]

well i ordered one....the good thing about theold model is the fact that the door had plastic inserts for trays and they were removable. i placed my order tonight so ill pick it up tomorrow and start ripping into it. i think i have a plan for the door but i will know for sure tomorrow

 

[jmo88]

The door needs to be modified a little bit but it works fine. Hooked my Auber PID up to it a few minutes ago after I put the dual tap tower on. Going to tackle the door tomorrow and I'll post pictures.

2 ball lock cornies and a 5# tank fit without modifying the door. It's tight but they fit. Make sure you push them in all the way and push the tops of the kegs back.

 

[WoodsyDoodsy]

:rockin: For the size keezer i was about to build, this was the perfect alternative. I bought a tower, and all the brew supplies from MicroMatic and the whole shabang plus the cornies and attatchments for 300...it was looking at the same prices for a small keezer. I took the top off and dug through the foam and found where not to drill. Place the holes NOT on the coils and support with a 2 by 4. If you dig out an insert the sixe of your wood and reinforce with liquid nails...then you're set. this is a great kegerator, and it was fun and super easy to build. Trust that it's worth the time and effort to dig around where you want to put your tower (i can't see how this would be near as convinient with door mounting...door is too short, and easy to bump into). The coolant lines are obvious and easy to avoid and if you're mounting the Co2 outside, you should go through the drain plug. All in all, my pumkin beer tastes great out of it, and thanks to all the previous posters for the advice!


Cheers!

 

[cheesecake]

Picked mine up today. anyone have any pictures of the top ripped off this one and if the coils go the same as the previous model

 

[jmo88]

Picked mine up today. anyone have any pictures of the top ripped off this one and if the coils go the same as the previous model

Check out this blog post for a good step-by-step and photos.

 

[snackson]

Mine ran from side to side. It was about 3" down in the foam. The ice scraper that comes with it helps to dig foam out.

 

[tmbc10784]

I picked one up on sale last night. I'm testing to make sure it works before I start ripping it apart.

I haven't ordered my kegging system yet, but I am wondering if 2 pin locks will fit in the fridge ok? I've read they can be a bit wider than ball locks, is that correct?

 

[jmo88]

Pin locks might fit if you modify the door. They definitely will not fit as is like ball locks.

 

[tmbc10784]

Thanks! I plan on removing the interior door moldings and replacing with a flat sheet of plastic to hold the seal on.

Pin locks seem to be a bit cheaper, but I think from other discussions I will just go for the ball locks for the most space including the other benefits.

 

[cheesecake]

I dont think the pinlocks will fit they may be to wide. i wish they would as i would like to use pin locks

 

[tmbc10784]

Good thing I ordered the ball locks. I assumed you could unscrew all the plastic molded shelves. Not so! I will leave them as they seem to fit with ball locks?

 

[jmo88]

Good thing I ordered the ball locks. I assumed you could unscrew all the plastic molded shelves. Not so! I will leave them as they seem to fit with ball locks?

Yeah I know. I was going to just take off the shelf to provide more room but the only way to make more room on the door would be to saw off all of the relief parts of the mold.

 

[gratefuldisc]

pinlocks do not fit. I tried. the fridge is too narrow to fit 2 pinlocks side by side.

 

[Carter1932]

I'm working on a conversion. This morning I tried two pinlocks; ain't no way it will fit without carving out some of the internal plastic mold. Seems like a pinlock and a ball lock might work together however, anyone tried that?

I prefer pinlocks, however sometimes their width is a hindrance, as is the case here. I guess I'll be moving on ball locks. So, where is the best deal on ball locks kegs?

 

[cheesecake]

do you think 2 pinlocks would fit if you remove the plastic on the door? that should give them a bit more space?

 

[seif10mes]

I picked one of these up this afternoon. Is there supposed to be a panel over the compressor, or am I crazy?

 

[gratefuldisc]

do you think 2 pinlocks would fit if you remove the plastic on the door? that should give them a bit more space?

nope, it wasn't a question of getting the door to close. they just would not even fit in the fridge side by side.

 

[snackson]

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4jBkQLrnwDcHf48zZBgUxA?feat=directlink

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/noq2ysnnyc29lJPL_-LHdw?feat=directlink

The temp controller turns a homemade draft tower chiller on the same time it turns the fridge on. I'll post How-to instructions on the draft tower chiller soon.

 

[Bumbler]

So, my Fridgidaire model FRC455GB took a dump sometime last night. Went to pour a pint this fine afternoon and the temp was 61F in the fridge.

Knowing something about refrigeration systems I started poking around. Traced the problem back to the PTC Thermister motor start. A device that controls voltage to the start winding. I've been looking on the internet all afternoon and found 1 supplier. In China, Minimum order - 10,000 units. All I need is 9,999 other people who need the same device.

My search continues. I'll probably convert to a more traditional "solid state" start.

My point. Whoever owns one of these fridges runs the risk of being, "dead in the water", over a 5 cent disk.

 

[casey914]

any luck on fitting the standard "1/6" keg?

 

[schupaul]

I was able to fit it just fine. However it fit better when I put on a Sankey 90 degree elbow. Otherwise the lines would kink at the top. I was also able to fit a 3gal corney on the back hump along with the 1/6th keg. However, you wont be able to fit a 5gal with it. I may try to modify the door later to see if it would work.

 

[ikonis]

Here's my LOVE controller added into this fridge. Sorry for the crappy phone pic.

 

[schupaul]

Can you tell me how you wired this up. I have another controller and would love to do the same thing.

 

[Schnitzengiggle]

Can you tell me how you wired this up. I have another controller and would love to do the same thing.

Just click on the Broken Glass Brewery link in my sig, I have a detailed write up of the build, and a wiring schematic for a Love TS-2.

Better yet just click here for the Love Temp Controller install, and wiring schematic. I also show a neat little way to make a water tight probe container, it is better than taping the temp probe to the keg!

Click here for a comprehensive kegerator build on the Frigidaire model.

 

[Bumbler]

So, my Fridgidaire model FRC455GB took a dump sometime last night. Went to pour a pint this fine afternoon and the temp was 61F in the fridge.

Knowing something about refrigeration systems I started poking around. Traced the problem back to the PTC Thermister motor start. A device that controls voltage to the start winding. I've been looking on the internet all afternoon and found 1 supplier. In China, Minimum order - 10,000 units. All I need is 9,999 other people who need the same device.

My search continues. I'll probably convert to a more traditional "solid state" start.

My point. Whoever owns one of these fridges runs the risk of being, "dead in the water", over a 5 cent disk.

I'm posting this here because it directly relates to the mini fridge in this thread and many people have this unit.

Here's the scoop. They do not make replacement parts for this unit. If your unit stops the most likely cause is PTC Thermister motor start. It seems to be the week link. It's found on the compressor and supplies power to the start winding. The thermistic disk is very brittle and can easily break.

The offending part.

The following is a legitimate fix to an otherwise dishonest business practice by the manufacture. I have tried numerous suppliers to obtain the original replacement part. the "3 in'1 start" fix is not a golden bullet, but will will give many years of extended life to an otherwise 1 year old piece of garbage.

Your compressor is fine if it OHM's out. (Continuity between the start and common terminal, and the run and common terminal, and there is no short to ground.

The fix is simple and cost about $10 + 1 hour of your time. It's a 3 in' 1 start. Model #RC0810. It supplies power to the run and start winding and has its own overload.

Due to limit of pics you will see the 3 in' 1 start later.

To replace.
Unplug unit from wall outlet.
Remove cover from side of compressor. Spring clip holds it on. pry off with screwdriver.

After cover removed you can see the PTC Thermister and overload.

Remove everything under cover. Pull it straight off pins .Non of it will be reused. What's left is 3 pins for the run/start winding. Common on top, start on left, run on right.

Now, to install the 3 in' 1 start. there are 5 wires. Red, Black, and White on one side and 2 Black on the other.

Start with the R,B,W. Black goes on the top pin, White goes on the left pin, and the Red goes on the right pin.

The 2 Black wires. 1 is the 120V from the thermostat suppling voltage to the compressor. The other is your 120V neutral.

Put the cover back on the compressor and the unit is ready to run again.

Quick, simple fix.

If unsure with electricity, consult an experienced neighbor.

 

[rynos63]

Thanks for the info. I hope to never need it, but if I do...