Floating dip tube

[Yesfan]

Not trying to start an argument, but I have both the clear beer with the filter screen and the Flotit. The Flotit wins for me regarding transfer from fermenter to keg, or fermenting and serving from the keg. Especially with hoppy ales. I’ve had a few clogs with the clear beer, but the Flotit just keeps going. It’s a wonderful, simple design.

My only gripe would be the gaskets on the outside of the Flotit can be difficult to put on at times, but once they’re on you shouldn’t have any issues.

I have the Flotit on my big keg and agree about the filter gaskets. I have the Torpedo Buoy on two of my 5 gallon kegs. They also have the single stage filter that I also added to my All Rounder (the plastic barrel looking one with 3 adjustments on it). Are the Torpedo Buoys the same as the Clear Beer?

 

[BongoYodeler]

Reviving this. Using this floating dip tube for the first time and getting 75% foam, 25% beer (wcipa), from the faucet. First tested it in water and it seemed to stay below the waterline, but it seems to be pulling CO2 with the beer causing lots of foam. Beer line length is correct. Regulator set to 12psi. Other beers in the keezer are pouring fine. I've swapped QD's just to rule them out. Also pulled and cleaned the faucet since I did have a small hop particle in my first pour and I wanted to rule out anything in the faucet obstructing the beer. Faucet looked fine though. Tough to drink a beer when it takes 10 minutes or more to get a full pour.

Any recommendations short of opening the keg and adding weight to the FDT line? Obviously not ideal with a heavily hopped ipa.

 

[odie]

yes...you need to add a weight to the line. a SS nut or fender washer that can freely slide up and down the tube.

 

[odie]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...s-problems-causes-fixes-solutions-etc.698417/

 

[BongoYodeler]

Yeah, add weight and ruin the beer...or.....drink a couple ounces at a time, (kind of like watering your plants with ice cubes)

Thanks for the link. I'd looked for something like that but must have missed it.

 

[MikeCo]

Any recommendations short of opening the keg and adding weight to the FDT line? Obviously not ideal with a heavily hopped ipa.

You could try gently shaking/swirling the keg to see if it helps the end of the tube fall back below the beer line.

 

[odie]

I've had several kegs that sucked CO2 into the tube. the only thing that solves it is a weight on the line.

part of the problem is that the silicone tube has a memory effect...It likes to straighten out. Thus it tends to push against the side of the keg. friction helps to hold it to the keg side and the silicone has grip as well. As the beer level drops, the hose doesn't always drop with the beer level...and then CO2 gets into the hose and then floats the tube which adds to the problem.

 

[KegLand]

Is anyone else having trouble with alot of foam using floating dip tube?

From my experience if you have the dip tube too high it will start to suck air. The floating dip tubes have three different height settings on them. Which one are you using here:

I have also seen some customer who want it to go even deeper just use another stainless ring and extend the chain slightly and this will make it go even deeper.

Also did you have the issue in your keg or fermenter? If it was in a fermenter and you are using quite a lot of hops usually the hops sit ontop of the fermenter for a few days after dry hopping. Depending on the amount of hops you add you will have to set the dip tube to go deeper.

At the end of the day it's a bit of a trade off. The deeper you go the less clear the beer will be. The higher you go the more risk of sucking air. With that said it's easy to adjust.

 

[BongoYodeler]

From my experience if you have the dip tube too high it will start to suck air. The floating dip tubes have three different height settings on them. Which one are you using here:

View attachment 827627

I have also seen some customer who want it to go even deeper just use another stainless ring and extend the chain slightly and this will make it go even deeper.

Also did you have the issue in your keg or fermenter? If it was in a fermenter and you are using quite a lot of hops usually the hops sit ontop of the fermenter for a few days after dry hopping. Depending on the amount of hops you add you will have to set the dip tube to go deeper.

At the end of the day it's a bit of a trade off. The deeper you go the less clear the beer will be. The higher you go the more risk of sucking air. With that said it's easy to adjust.

Not sure if you meant this for the OP or me. I resurrected this thread mainly to see if there might be any way of saving this ipa. At any rate, I fermented in a corny keg with a shortened dip tube and pressure transferred to a second keg containing dry hops and the referenced floating dip tube. The second keg was purged with fermentation CO2.
I did notice the three positions for the floating dip tube. But it's the first time using this one and I don't recall where it was initially set (I didn't change it). Prior to using it I cleaned it and dropped it in some sanitizer and it seemed to stay under the water level. I've tried bumping the keg, and even slightly tilting it, but to no avail. I'll keep messing with it and slow pouring it for now. But at some point I may end opening it up and swap it out, then drink it quickly until oxidation leads me to dump it if I can't finish it. Not sure of a better option at this point.

 

[KegLand]

Not sure if you meant this for the OP or me. I resurrected this thread mainly to see if there might be any way of saving this ipa. At any rate, I fermented in a corny keg with a shortened dip tube and pressure transferred to a second keg containing dry hops and the referenced floating dip tube. The second keg was purged with fermentation CO2.
I did notice the three positions for the floating dip tube. But it's the first time using this one and I don't recall where it was initially set (I didn't change it). Prior to using it I cleaned it and dropped it in some sanitizer and it seemed to stay under the water level. I've tried bumping the keg, and even slightly tilting it, but to no avail. I'll keep messing with it and slow pouring it for now. But at some point I may end opening it up and swap it out, then drink it quickly until oxidation leads me to dump it if I can't finish it. Not sure of a better option at this point.

To be honest with you I have never really liked fermentation in corny keg as they:
1. Are a bit more tricky to get your hand in and clean
2. It's difficult to see what is going in stainless steel vessels so if you have a lot of floating hop material or the dip tube is tabgled on a hop bomb it's impossible to troubleshoot.
3. The volume is not super convenient and for a standard batch you dont have suffieient head space.
Have you concidered just the FermZilla all rounder. This is also what the floating dip tube was more designed for.
I know with my FermZilla if I add any dry hops in the fermenter this floats to the top for about 1-2 days and then if I shake the fermzilla vigerously it breaks up this hop cake and the hops sink to the bottom and this reduces the chance of fowling up the dip tube filter. So I would give it a really vigerous rock back and forth if you suspect this is the issue.

Also with respect to blockages you may also want to check your poppet. These are a common blockage area. The filter will generally prevent this but it's worth knowing just incase. If you ever get a blocked popet then try opening the flow of liquid on the tap (or whatever your ball lock disconnect is connected to and quickly connect and disconnect the ball lock disconnect so the post goes up and down many times. This can dislodge solid materials from the poppet spring.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Reviving this. Using this floating dip tube for the first time and getting 75% foam, 25% beer (wcipa), from the faucet. First tested it in water and it seemed to stay below the waterline, but it seems to be pulling CO2 with the beer causing lots of foam. Beer line length is correct. Regulator set to 12psi. Other beers in the keezer are pouring fine. I've swapped QD's just to rule them out. Also pulled and cleaned the faucet since I did have a small hop particle in my first pour and I wanted to rule out anything in the faucet obstructing the beer. Faucet looked fine though. Tough to drink a beer when it takes 10 minutes or more to get a full pour.

Any recommendations short of opening the keg and adding weight to the FDT line? Obviously not ideal with a heavily hopped ipa.

Still pouring 80% foam, so I pour a full glass, “drink” a little foam and let the rest settle a bit, then pour again,

repeat a few times. Eventually, 10 minutes or so, I can have a full pour.

 

[jcav]

Also something to look out for is sometimes there is a little tear or cut in the silicone tube that slides up and attaches to the out dip tube post. That little tear/cut will suck in C02 and it will spit and foam like crazy. If that is the case when you clean the keg before using it again you have to cut that small portion out. It will make the tubing a little shorter but will still work fine.

John

 

[odie]

until you open the keg and fix the tubing, it will continue to foam. I know it sucks to open the keg.

But if you can open it, pull out the float, remove it, slide a SS nut or fender washer on the tube and reattach the float...all will be right again.

Just bump the PRV a few times to purge the oxygen.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Also something to look out for is sometimes there is a little tear or cut in the silicone tube that slides up and attaches to the out dip tube post. That little tear/cut will suck in C02 and it will spit and foam like crazy. If that is the case when you clean the keg before using it again you have to cut that small portion out. It will make the tubing a little shorter but will still work fine.

John

Thanks, I’ll check for that when I pull it out.

 

[BongoYodeler]

until you open the keg and fix the tubing, it will continue to foam. I know it sucks to open the keg.

But if you can open it, pull out the float, remove it, slide a SS nut or fender washer on the tube and reattach the float...all will be right again.

Just bump the PRV a few times to purge the oxygen.

Yeah, I’m considering doing just that. Maybe Labor Day weekend and have some friends over to kill the keg before oxidation ruins it.

 

[DuncB]

Pour into a jug also helps!

 

[odie]

I really don't get the floating dip tubes with those screens attached. Seems like extra stuff that doesn't do anything but increases the complexity.

1. any hop debris or whatever is gonna drop like a rock when the keg it chilled for serving. simply not an issue of stuff getting sucked into the serving line. All mine are just an open tube below the float. I've never gotten anything sucked into the lines except beer. I don't see the harm of the screen but I also see no benefit.

2. For those who ferment and serve in the keg...that screen thing hangs so low that it will hit the yeast cake with a few pints of servable beer still on top. It's "possible" the intake of the tube "might" be held slightly above the yeast level to allow those last few pints to be served clean. Or it may just stir it all up when the screen hits the yeast cake and that's it for clear beer.

I do know that the basic floating dip tubes that are just the float and a 1" metal tube for the silicone hose to attach are pouring me clear beer until the very last drinkable pint. The first pour that is not clear the keg is pulled from service. When opened later there is no beer left on top, only yeast cake for re-pitching.

 

[moreb33rplz]

I really don't get the floating dip tubes with those screens attached. Seems like extra stuff that doesn't do anything but increases the complexity.

1. any hop debris or whatever is gonna drop like a rock when the keg it chilled for serving. simply not an issue of stuff getting sucked into the serving line. All mine are just an open tube below the float. I've never gotten anything sucked into the lines except beer. I don't see the harm of the screen but I also see no benefit.

2. For those who ferment and serve in the keg...that screen thing hangs so low that it will hit the yeast cake with a few pints of servable beer still on top. It's "possible" the intake of the tube "might" be held slightly above the yeast level to allow those last few pints to be served clean. Or it may just stir it all up when the screen hits the yeast cake and that's it for clear beer.

I do know that the basic floating dip tubes that are just the float and a 1" metal tube for the silicone hose to attach are pouring me clear beer until the very last drinkable pint. The first pour that is not clear the keg is pulled from service. When opened later there is no beer left on top, only yeast cake for re-pitching.

I dry hop loose in the keg, no way I'd do that without a filter or screen of some kind. Yeah the hops drop when it's cold but clogged kegs is the ultimate hassle.

I don't think there's any difference in getting the last few beers out of the keg either, I don't see how a tiny screen over my tube will rob me of multiple pints of beer but guess I've never really investigated it closely either

All that to say brew on, if no screen is working for you hell yeah, but I don't see any harm and enjoy the peace of mind I get from avoiding clogs

 

[odie]

I dry hop loose in the keg, no way I'd do that without a filter or screen of some kind. Yeah the hops drop when it's cold but clogged kegs is the ultimate hassle.

loose hops...yeah thats gonna be an issue on that last pint.

yeast cake is fine and will just flow out as fine silt into your last pint. hop trub is very different. gonna plug stuff up. I dry hop but with a stocking/sock.

loose yep go with the screen

 

[odie]

I don't think there's any difference in getting the last few beers out of the keg either, I don't see how a tiny screen over my tube will rob me of multiple pints of beer but guess I've never really investigated it closely either

it seems that the screen thing pulls the intake lower under the surface than without. maybe a couple pints difference?

either way...I would still recommend always adding a sliding weight to the silicone hose to keep the hose in a constant "dip". That eliminates any air pockets getting into the line causing foam pours

 

[Broken Crow]

Yeah, I’m considering doing just that. Maybe Labor Day weekend and have some friends over to kill the keg before oxidation ruins it.

Just a thought; Since you're going to have to depressurize anyway, rather than pop the lid open to fix the floating diptube, do you still have a full length solid diptube on hand? ...Maybe pull and turn the prv open with gas attached but running very low PSI so that it's continually but slowly flowing out of the keg while you remove the liquid post and see if you can pull the shortened diptube out, leaving the hose inside to remove later when its empty, and drop in a sanitized full length rplacement?
Just spit-balling on how to avoid O2 exposure.
Best of luck, it does look too nice to waste.

 

[sibelman]

incorrect way of using it

Clogs during closed transfer are super annoying, but not inevitable.

It's true that screens on floating dip tubes like FLOTit add another place where clogging can occur. Adding a filter (like the Bouncer) between fermenter and serving keg reduces (eliminates?) the risk.

 

[BongoYodeler]

Just a thought; Since you're going to have to depressurize anyway, rather than pop the lid open to fix the floating diptube, do you still have a full length solid diptube on hand? ...Maybe pull and turn the prv open with gas attached but running very low PSI so that it's continually but slowly flowing out of the keg while you remove the liquid post and see if you can pull the shortened diptube out, leaving the hose inside to remove later when its empty, and drop in a sanitized full length rplacement?
Just spit-balling on how to avoid O2 exposure.
Best of luck, it does look too nice to waste.

Thanks for the idea, interesting thought. I wonder how easy the tubing would separate from the dip tube simply by pulling the dip tube straight up. My guess is not very easily. I do have a couple spare full size dip tubes, as well as a shortened one, (that I cut 1 1/2 inches off of). Only issue I see with that is I have 7 1/2 oz of dry hops sitting commando at the bottom of the keg. Sounds like a recipe for a clog, even with a shortened dip tube.

 

[odie]

I wonder how easy the tubing would separate from the dip tube simply by pulling the dip tube straight up. My guess is not very easily.

that's probably the easiest way.

think of a chinese finger puzzle. when you are pulling the silicone tubing off the post, you are stretching it longer so it want's to get thinner...grabbing the dip tube tighter.

When you pull the dip tube from the keg, the silicone tube stops against the roof of the keg and bunches up, making it shorter and fatter. It loosens it's grip on the dip tube.

 

[Broken Crow]

Thanks for the idea, interesting thought. I wonder how easy the tubing would separate from the dip tube simply by pulling the dip tube straight up. My guess is not very easily. I do have a couple spare full size dip tubes, as well as a shortened one, (that I cut 1 1/2 inches off of). Only issue I see with that is I have 7 1/2 oz of dry hops sitting commando at the bottom of the keg. Sounds like a recipe for a clog, even with a shortened dip tube.

If you don't mind breaking out the dremel or whatever, you could do a couple long diagonal cuts to make the diptube a 'V' shape like a couple fangs...it'll leave more beer in the bottom, but be less likely plug, and if it does plug, keep CO2 on a liquid disconnect to blow it back out just in case. ...maybe?

PS: why is there no straight-faced "Hmmmm..." in the 'like' button selections?

 

[BongoYodeler]

that's probably the easiest way.

think of a chinese finger puzzle. when you are pulling the silicone tubing off the post, you are stretching it longer so it want's to get thinner...grabbing the dip tube tighter.

When you pull the dip tube from the keg, the silicone tube stops against the roof of the keg and bunches up, making it shorter and fatter. It loosens it's grip on the dip tube.

Interesting. Not what I would have thought, but if that's so then it might be the way to go. Just concerned about all the hops at the bottom.

@Broken Crow I'd rather not go that route to modify the dip tube that drastically as I do use it as is when I ferment in the keg. It sits high enough off the bottom to leave the compacted yeast behind when I transfer to the dry hop or serving keg.

 

[Graham H]

…keep CO2 on a liquid disconnect to blow it back out just in case. ...maybe?

I was thinking along these lines, too. I haven’t (yet) had this problem, so I can’t confirm/refute it as a technique. Has anyone ever had any luck doing this?

 

[balrog]

I was thinking along these lines, too. I haven’t (yet) had this problem, so I can’t confirm/refute it as a technique. Has anyone ever had any luck doing this?

<raises hand>
I do this when ferment in keg. "Burp" CO2 **into** the liquid out to clear the floating dip tube if there's anything.
I do it at the end of fermenting, I don't dry hop, and the keg runs fine until it's empty.

 

[KegLand]

I really don't get the floating dip tubes with those screens attached. Seems like extra stuff that doesn't do anything but increases the complexity.

1. any hop debris or whatever is gonna drop like a rock when the keg it chilled for serving. simply not an issue of stuff getting sucked into the serving line. All mine are just an open tube below the float. I've never gotten anything sucked into the lines except beer. I don't see the harm of the screen but I also see no benefit.

2. For those who ferment and serve in the keg...that screen thing hangs so low that it will hit the yeast cake with a few pints of servable beer still on top. It's "possible" the intake of the tube "might" be held slightly above the yeast level to allow those last few pints to be served clean. Or it may just stir it all up when the screen hits the yeast cake and that's it for clear beer.

I do know that the basic floating dip tubes that are just the float and a 1" metal tube for the silicone hose to attach are pouring me clear beer until the very last drinkable pint. The first pour that is not clear the keg is pulled from service. When opened later there is no beer left on top, only yeast cake for re-pitching.

No way. I think the floating dip tube in the fermenter is one of the best inventions ever. I use this in my all rounder and it works great. Prior to having the filters we used to have small amounts of hops get blocked in the poppet and since the filter end this issue has been prevented.

With that said I dont use the floating dip tube in the kegs. In my opinion kegs are for clear beer and I never dry hop or put any solids in the kegs so floating dip tubes in kegs is not really necessary in my opinion.

Yes dry hops do settle out pretty quickly but if you want to take samples out of the fermenter before they are settled out then you are sometimes forced to suck some beer with some hops in it.

I have the cage set to dive deep as possible and never have any issues and find the system works great.

For some yeast strains that do not flocculate you can start pulling of clear beer from the top of the fermenter 1 week earlier than waiting for the yeast to settle all the way out to the bottom.

 

[North Raleigh Brewer]

I have a few FLotit 2.0's and they're awesome. Ferment and serve in the same keg.

I’m about to try that. Do you put the flotit in before fermentation or insert it after fermentation is done? I was just wondering if fermentation might clog it.