First Batch Tips

[kmcdougallwyo]

Hello everyone! I am doing my first batch this Saturday and I feel ready. I have read and re-read my directions. I have reached out to buddies who are home brewers and received some advice. I just want to use this forum to field advice or tips. I have just one question for now:

1. How much wiggle room do I have in temperature variation in the fermentation space? I bought a thermometer for my unused basement bathroom and it reads between 63 and 71. I have messed with the heat register for that space to try and keep it somewhat consistent. I’ve heard 65-70 is ideal for an ale. Thoughts?

Any and all advice is helpful! Thank you.

 

[IslandLizard]

Welcome to HBT and brewing your first batch of beer!

Consistency is as important as actual fermentation temperature.

Although it depends on the strain used, check the specified range, most ale yeast (such as US-05) work cleanest around 64-66F, but starts to become slow below 62F.
Higher temps, near or above a yeast's max range (68F and up) creates more byproducts you may be able to taste, such as fusel alcohols and esters.

After a week or so, once the beer has fermented down to 80-90% done (things start to slow down), temps can be gradually raised a few degrees to make sure she finishes out, which also helps with conditioning.

Don't do secondaries! They're not needed (for 99.999% of all beers brewed).

You can place the fermenter in a tub with water, and put a large towel over the whole system to reduce temp fluctuations, keeping things more even between the heat kicking on and being off. Measure the temp of the water periodically to verify it's within the lower part of her range.

Tile or cement floors in a basement are known heat drains, sucking heat from anything on it. Although in Summer that can be used as a benefit, maybe put it on a riser or on a few doubled up towels.

 

[davidabcd]

First batch? Lots of wiggle room. Room temperature is always fine when starting out. Since you do have the benefit of a range of temps, I'll offer this advice: keep it on the lower end of that range for two or three days and then average about 68°F until it's finished.

 

[RM-MN]

Room temperature is always fine when starting out.

This is how I started out and I did several batches at room temp (72 degrees, steady) These always fermented just fine and I drank them all. Then I learned about the importance of temperature control and the taste of the beers improved a lot. Don't sweat it too much for the first batch and follow the advice about setting the fermenter in a tub of water if you can.

Since you do have the benefit of a range of temps, I'll offer this advice: keep it on the lower end of that range for two or three days and then average about 68°F until it's finished.

I leave my beers in the low to mid 60's for about a week, then let it warm to 72 where it stays until I bottle it. That lets the yeast finish up anything they missed when cool and if I leave the beer long enough most of the yeast drops out and my beers have little sediment in the bottle. I try to leave most of them for 3 to 4 weeks before bottling but have bottled some at 10 days because I was low on beer and wanted to rush it. Do plan on letting the beer sit for a minimum of 2 weeks after bottling so it can mature but don't hesitate to try one sooner. I find that most of my beers taste better and have better head retention if I wait at least 3 weeks.

 

[HB_ATL73]

Good luck on your first batch!

 

[foolsbrew]

Hello everyone! I am doing my first batch this Saturday and I feel ready. I have read and re-read my directions. I have reached out to buddies who are home brewers and received some advice. I just want to use this forum to field advice or tips. I have just one question for now:

1. How much wiggle room do I have in temperature variation in the fermentation space? I bought a thermometer for my unused basement bathroom and it reads between 63 and 71. I have messed with the heat register for that space to try and keep it somewhat consistent. I’ve heard 65-70 is ideal for an ale. Thoughts?

Any and all advice is helpful! Thank you.

Something I don't see mentioned a lot is how much heat the fermentation alone produces.
If you work with a wort and ambient temperature of 70F, the fermentation temperature can go as high as 80F.

Pitch when it's day time(when the room is warmest) to make sure the yeast wakes up when it's getting cold to produce less off-flavors. Keep in mind the warmer you pitch, the less lag time there will be. If the yeast wakes up when it's 60F, the majority of fermentation will probably happen around 65F.
60F-80F range won't produce anything undrinkable. 65F is a good spot, unless you are working with a Belgian strain.

If you decide to ferment cold, do a diacetyl rest when the fermentation is about 75% done. If you ferment around 65F-70F, you don't need to do this.

Off-flavors are produced during the fermentation stage and fermentation slows down as time goes on. If your temperatures are good during the first two days, you can stop worrying. Even if it gets too cold or too hot, it won't be too bad.

A swamp cooler is the most effective DIY cooling solution you can do. Just a cold wet towel and a fan.

If you are using dry yeast, re-hydrate in a cup of water first. The temperature of this water should be the same as your wort. If you don't nothing bad will happen, this just increases the viability of the yeast.

Don't open your fermenter unless you have a good reason to, like dry hopping.

Gelatin is the cheapest and easiest way to get a clear looking product, it will be useful.

 

[mongoose33]

Without overloading you--there are a lot of moving pieces and you can sometimes be overwhelmed by them--do whatever you can to control fermentation temps. I'd suggest aiming for 65 degrees.

For most yeasts (other than Kveik yeast and those intended to produce Saisons or farmhouse ales), the higher the temp above optimum, the more the yeast produces unintended flavors. So work to avoid that.

Almost all experienced home brewers will tell you that fermentation temp control was a big leap forward for them and their beer. So try to do that. Yeast, which is exothermic, can increase the temp of the fermenting wort 5-10 degrees over what your ambient temperature is. So in a room that is 68, you might really be fermenting as high as 78, and you do not want that.

So, as @IslandLizard suggests, if you can use a swamp cooler. Get a turkey pan from the dollar store, fill with 2" of water, put your fermenter in it, drape an old t-shirt over it so that it hangs in the water and wicks up water. That water will evaporate and cool the fermenter.

Some brewers, if they're in a particularly warm spot, will use frozen water bottles in the water to help, replacing them every 12 hours. In your case, probably not needed.

Here's a pic showing what we mean, it's from my own brewing. The basement floor area was about 65 degrees, and the swamp cooler held that temp. It's OK if you go a little lower than your target (say your target is 65 and you're at 63; that's fine). You just want to keep it as close to your target as you can.

 

[kh54s10]

When I used my swamp cooler it was warmer. I got a large rubbermaid storage container and had twice the water and had trouble keeping it cool replacing the frozen water bottles 3 times a day. You may need both the wicking and ice. Control the temperature of the wort, not the air outside the carboy.

The swamp cooler is a good start but start thinking of a temperature controlled fermentation chamber. My first was an insulated plywood box with a mini-fridge set into the end. It was OK but I ended up with a chest freezer controlled with an Inkbird controller.

 

[Mdemerse1]

We would put our batches into our coat closet, which was the only room in the house that didn't have an air vent and wasn't located near an exterior wall. Seemed to work out okay, except no one could access anything else in the closet for days.....

 

[IslandLizard]

So, as @IslandLizard suggests, if you can use a swamp cooler.

I wasn't suggesting a swamp cooler, which is an active cooling device itself, lowering the temp of the fermenter by evaporation.

I merely suggested to create a water jacket by means of placing the fermenter in a storage tote or so, partially filled with water. This to reduce temp swings when warm air kicks on raising the local air temps.

The water jacket also drains off heat caused by fermentation. By fermenting at lower temps already, the 64-65F as mentioned above (using US-05), the amount of heat generated is generally much smaller too, so there is less to drain, better temp stability.

Almost all experienced home brewers will tell you that fermentation temp control was a big leap forward for them and their beer.

@kmcdougallwyo I think that's what we're trying to talk you into, early on in your brew career. ^
Low and steady makes better beer (some exceptions noted, like Kveik and Saison yeast).

 

[Harleybrew32]

good luck on your first batch.
I started temp controlling my fermentation's after my first 4 batchs or so. the fermentor in a tote with water is a great way to slow down the temp swing as suggested already. also here are three more words i live by Sanitize Sanitize and Sanitize also if your not sure sanitize it my first mr beer attempt was ruined do to laziness with sanitizer but lesson learned. get a spray bottle fill it with starsan solution and just spray it every where.
cheers

 

[kh54s10]

good luck on your first batch.
I started temp controlling my fermentation's after my first 4 batchs or so. the fermentor in a tote with water is a great way to slow down the temp swing as suggested already. also here are three more words i live by Sanitize Sanitize and Sanitize also if your not sure sanitize it my first mr beer attempt was ruined do to laziness with sanitizer but lesson learned. get a spray bottle fill it with starsan solution and just spray it every where.
cheers

COLD SIDE. Using sanitizer on the hot side is just a waste of sanitizer. The heat of the boil will do any sanitizing needed.

 

[IslandLizard]

COLD SIDE. Using sanitizer on the hot side is just a waste of sanitizer. The heat of the boil will do any sanitizing needed.

Pretty much, yes.

Hooking onto that, cleaning and sanitizing are 2 entirely different processes. You can't sanitize something that isn't clean in the first place. For example, you can't sanitize dirt. That's why cleaning agents are used to destroy and remove the biofilm and dirt clinging to surfaces. Then rinsed away before you can sanitize that surface. Starsan, Iodophor, Peracetic acid, etc. are not cleaners, or very good ones, but are very good sanitizers. On the other hand, washing soda, Oxiclean, PBW, One Step, and whatever other cleaners are out there are good cleaners (plus using some mechanical means), but not very good or efficient sanitizers, to make and keep surfaces bug free.

For example, any crud that remains in your kettle valve (in the chamber around the ball), although it gets hot during the hour boil, can still be an infection source. Pediococcus is known to hide in there, being amazingly heat resistant apparently. So if that valve never gets thoroughly cleaned inside (by taking it apart), any wort going through that dirty valve will be contaminated with Pedio, giving you a wonderful buttery popcorn dressing flavor in all your beer.

 

[cskid]

Curious how it went?

Late to the game here but just wanted to say keep it fun. Whatever you do enjoy the process...the d.i.y. aspect...and the geeking out on the science of it. Don't get crazy wrapped up at the results of things. Especially at the beginning. At this point I hope you've enjoyed brewing your own.

I've been brewing for a number of years and had to ferment at room temperature with not many mechanical options for no other reason than too many other hobbies and commitments in addition to brewing (consuming dollars), family life (consuming dollars) and lack of space in garage (again..due to too many hobbies). No room for a fermentation chamber or second fridge/freezer.

I've used the swamp cooled method mentioned above which I can confirm is solid as an option and I've also many times fermented at room temperature using standard ale yeasts. Sit it in a room and forget it. We live in Florida and the house stays between 76-78 degrees. Unless your entire friend group and people you enjoy beer with are fellow home brewers, professional brewers or people who judge beer in competitions your results will be just fine. Could there be some off flavors? Sure. Will they be so overpowering that you need to dump the beer? Probably not. Usually not the case. As long as you like the beer those who are not as tuned in to brewing will love the beer. Trust me. Just the fact you made it and it tastes good to them will be thrilling for you. Makes you want to make and share more. Here's two quick studies from fermenting at room temp. 1. Made a beer that missed gravity and fermented at room temp. Took to a buddy who said this would fit great in "this style" category of beer. Competition came up...entered in "that style category" for fun only..won a metal against many competitors. Admittedly I was shocked. 2. Won a medal as one of the best ciders in the state with store bought motts apple juice, french yeast, a cinnamon stick and priming sugar. Think I was up against 20 or 30 others then. Also shocked. Point here is can I get repeatable results as well as someone who controls variables in the process better than I can (mash temp, fermentation temperature, etc)? No. That's really what controlling the process is all about is repeatability. Can you produce good stuff not having all the gadgets and toys. Absolutely. You might not be able to recreate it exactly but you can get lucky with practice often.

Last note, if you're in a similar situation to me with either lack of space or, just too many other hobbies causing you to divvy up your cash, then take a look at at a temp control coil that's a reasonable alternative. Yes, as an engineer and after years of infrequent brewing I did yearn to have somewhat more control in my fermentation process for repeatability so spent a buck and bought a pond pump, inkbird controller and a chiller loop from Ball and Keg (www.ballandkeg.com). I think all in I'm under $100 bucks for the set up. You will have to change frozen bottles or ice in and out of your cooler where your submersible pump is located (which does suck). However, if you brew like me which is very infrequently with young kids and a lot going on then it's no big deal. Keeps ales in perfect temp. I've not tried it but also told I can insulate my carboy and get the temp down to ferment lagers if I want to. Though checking out Brulosophy's website and Exbeeriments not really sure I want to.

Attached a pick of my temp control loop below as it was hard for me to find photos or info at first on temp control coils when I was doing research. Brew equipment name brands have coils that cost hundreds of dollars that do the same thing. Fluid flowing thru it + surface area in the solution + contact time equals success. Don't need to spend hundreds on that. Maybe if it was my only hobby

Good luck!