First All Grain BIAB_NEIPA

[Rogue_Atom87]

Yeah I dont know why I had whirlfloc down in recipe. I removed that as not needed. After updating my equipment profile the FG drifted quite a bit. I have efficiency set at 70%. Not sure if 1.021FG will be ok based on this recipe. Below is what Brewfather was calculating

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Got an early start this morning on this recipe. After mashing at 150 for 60 min I got a pre boil gravity of only 1.044 vs 1.051 recipe indicated. OG was at 1.061. According to Brewfather this puts Mash efficiency at 69.7% and brewhouse efficiency at 62.9%. Not too thrilled with these numbers.

-One thing I did notice from original recipe to scaled down version I used it I was off by .25 pounds of pilsner malt. Not sure if this amount would make much difference
-I squeezed the crap out of the bag to get as much out as possible
-I boiled for 75min instead of 60 so finished amount in the fermenter was just under my estimate 2.5 gallon
-Pre boil volume was spot on to what recipe called for

Any idea on why the crappy efficiencies?

 

[apache_brew]

Crush gap? Maybe some sparging will help out. I'm not too keen on conversion criteria when using different malts/grains. Iodine test for conversion? Maybe a 90 minute mash is necessary next time.

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Unfortunately I cant crush my own grains and believe LHBS keeps on one setting. Next batch will base off same 63% but do 90min mash as you stated and see how that goes

 

[apache_brew]

Ask them to double crush next time, that should help.

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Thanks. Will have them do that next time. One good thing is I have keg (fermenter) in the keg cooler bag with 3 cooler shock packs. I vac sealed the remote temperature probe shown above and dropped it inside. Temp is at 64F with ambient temps at 85F. I pulled two packs and replaced with a fresh one from freezer. Going to track intervals needed to maintain temp around 66-68 but believe I can do this with just two packs.

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Looks like 1 shock pack in cooler will maintain fermenter temps of 64-66 with ambient temps 80-85. Pretty happy with this. This morning had very active fermentation 16 hours after pitching Safbrew S-33. Will probably dry hop on day 4

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

So appears all fermentation has stopped. I saw one bubble this morning but nothing since then. I took a sample and only at 1.034. I plan to introduce dry hops tomorrow and will take another sample. If it is the same what is the best way to get the FG down to where it should be. Temperature during entire time was 64-70F

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

I dry hopped yesterday and took a gravity reading by hydrometer. It was at 1.022. I put sample in my refractometer and it shows 1.034 which is same as the day prior. I took another gravity reading today by hydrometer and it was at 1.022 so it appears fermentation was complete in 3 days. Not sure if that is concerning or not with temps maintaining mid-high 60s. How long should I let it sit in fermenter before cold crashing? I am leaving town on Sat morning and would prefer to cold crash and transfer to keg for 1 week conditioning prior to leaving. During conditioning in keg is it ok to pressurize with CO2 or should you leave it for a week then let it carbonate for a week after?

 

[apache_brew]

Refractometer= wort gravity readings only.

3 days is pretty fast to stall out at 1.022. I'd be tempted to shake it up and let it ride at 72-73 interal temperature for a couple more days. Otherwise, how's it taste? If it's not too sweet and it's really done then just crash it. 1.022 is pretty high for an IPA (not as high for a NEIPA from my understanding)

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Shook it up pretty good yesterday. Came down this morning and air lock was filled and the cooler the keg was sitting in had about 2 cups of beer in bottom. Looks like a little overflow from shaking it up id imagine. Took another gravity sample and still at 1.022. Tasted real hoppy. Not awful tasting but not typical. I imagine that may be some of the sediment may have gotten through screen and into sample. Will let it sit today and will transfer to serving keg tomorrow and cold crash until Sunday. Will then hook up Co2 and let it go for a week.

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Quick question on proper conditioning for kegs.

I crashed the beer to 34F yesterday afternoon. Temp swings on my keezer that sits outside will be 31-36F at this setting. My questions are how long should I keep it cold crashed before transferring to keg and once its transferred should I immediately connect co2 or let is sit for a bit longer?

 

[apache_brew]

Quick question on proper conditioning for kegs.

I crashed the beer to 34F yesterday afternoon. Temp swings on my keezer that sits outside will be 31-36F at this setting. My questions are how long should I keep it cold crashed before transferring to keg and once its transferred should I immediately connect co2 or let is sit for a bit longer?

Benefits of cold crashing are gained in about 1 to 3 days. You mentioned a screen, do you mean on your keg dip tube? If you have a full length dip tube in your corny keg fermenter, you're likely picking up yeast cake/dry hops. Some people who use cornies to ferment in will cut the dip tube a couple inches to not pick up the yeast cake. The cool cats nowadays use floating dip tubes and seem to have good success avoiding picking up sediment. I wouldn't be concerned with hurting the beer by leaving it too long on a cold crash. Another week or so isn't going to matter (its cold and sanitary). Regarding cold crashing, you should have removed the gas post to avoid suck back and even worse oxygen intrusion during the temp drop. (hope this isn't your case). As far as transferring goes, if you were brewing a brite beer, I'd recommend adding some bio-fine to your serving keg and then transfer onto it. (skip this for hazies). Regarding CO2, sure, hit it with CO2 right now while it's cold crashing if you're in a hurry. You might get some foaming when you transfer to your serving keg if you're not fast enough and keep head pressure in the serving keg. Or, just transfer it and burst carb it after.

What I like to do is cap my fermenter when I dry hop IPAs with about .004 gravity points until terminal. (which you can do in a corny keg with a built in PRV) This builds up natural carbonation until the beer reaches terminal, as well as raise the ferm temperature 3-4 deg F for a default D-rest. At that point, there's enough pressure in the keg to not draw a vacuum when I cold crash, and when I transfer to a serving keg it's nearly already carbonated and ready to drink.

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Thanks Apache

I shortened the dip tube roughly 2" and also installed a 200 micron screen over it for additional filtration. When you mentioned removing gas post I removed the air lock from the gas post I had commented during fermentation but the actual keg post is still installed. Essentially its in a position where no air can get in or out and this was done prior to cold crash.

I will go ahead and transfer to serving keg and hook up co2 then let it sit for another 1-2 weeks. Will probably pitch the first glass until it runs clear to remove all other sediment that made its way thru the transfer