First All Grain BIAB_NEIPA

[Rogue_Atom87]

Shook it up pretty good yesterday. Came down this morning and air lock was filled and the cooler the keg was sitting in had about 2 cups of beer in bottom. Looks like a little overflow from shaking it up id imagine. Took another gravity sample and still at 1.022. Tasted real hoppy. Not awful tasting but not typical. I imagine that may be some of the sediment may have gotten through screen and into sample. Will let it sit today and will transfer to serving keg tomorrow and cold crash until Sunday. Will then hook up Co2 and let it go for a week.

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Quick question on proper conditioning for kegs.

I crashed the beer to 34F yesterday afternoon. Temp swings on my keezer that sits outside will be 31-36F at this setting. My questions are how long should I keep it cold crashed before transferring to keg and once its transferred should I immediately connect co2 or let is sit for a bit longer?

 

[apache_brew]

Quick question on proper conditioning for kegs.

I crashed the beer to 34F yesterday afternoon. Temp swings on my keezer that sits outside will be 31-36F at this setting. My questions are how long should I keep it cold crashed before transferring to keg and once its transferred should I immediately connect co2 or let is sit for a bit longer?

Benefits of cold crashing are gained in about 1 to 3 days. You mentioned a screen, do you mean on your keg dip tube? If you have a full length dip tube in your corny keg fermenter, you're likely picking up yeast cake/dry hops. Some people who use cornies to ferment in will cut the dip tube a couple inches to not pick up the yeast cake. The cool cats nowadays use floating dip tubes and seem to have good success avoiding picking up sediment. I wouldn't be concerned with hurting the beer by leaving it too long on a cold crash. Another week or so isn't going to matter (its cold and sanitary). Regarding cold crashing, you should have removed the gas post to avoid suck back and even worse oxygen intrusion during the temp drop. (hope this isn't your case). As far as transferring goes, if you were brewing a brite beer, I'd recommend adding some bio-fine to your serving keg and then transfer onto it. (skip this for hazies). Regarding CO2, sure, hit it with CO2 right now while it's cold crashing if you're in a hurry. You might get some foaming when you transfer to your serving keg if you're not fast enough and keep head pressure in the serving keg. Or, just transfer it and burst carb it after.

What I like to do is cap my fermenter when I dry hop IPAs with about .004 gravity points until terminal. (which you can do in a corny keg with a built in PRV) This builds up natural carbonation until the beer reaches terminal, as well as raise the ferm temperature 3-4 deg F for a default D-rest. At that point, there's enough pressure in the keg to not draw a vacuum when I cold crash, and when I transfer to a serving keg it's nearly already carbonated and ready to drink.

 

[Rogue_Atom87]

Thanks Apache

I shortened the dip tube roughly 2" and also installed a 200 micron screen over it for additional filtration. When you mentioned removing gas post I removed the air lock from the gas post I had commented during fermentation but the actual keg post is still installed. Essentially its in a position where no air can get in or out and this was done prior to cold crash.

I will go ahead and transfer to serving keg and hook up co2 then let it sit for another 1-2 weeks. Will probably pitch the first glass until it runs clear to remove all other sediment that made its way thru the transfer