Favorite English Yeasts

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stu4stew

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I recently used 002 for an ESB, and was underwhelmed. Seemed lower malt than i wanted plus it had a hard time cleaning up the diacytel.

What are everyone's go to enjoys strains and fermentation schedules?
 
I really like WLP006 Bedford British. It has a great ester profile. Only problem is that it's seasonally available.

I think WLP013 London Ale gives a maltier flavor though.
 
Thwaites is a good workhorse.

Notty is a good for big beers and if you want to ferment low, plus ease of use of course

S04 (whitbread-b) is good if you want that lactic tang. seems to go nice with lemon/citrus flavoured hops I find



I think for my next few british beers I'm going to mix my yeasts, so windsor+notty, (good esters but better attenuation and flocculation) maybe try and culture up some Harveys or Adnams yeast although they are multistrain so will probably be out of wack
 
I believe you can get slants of Harvey's yeast from Brewlabs (according to some scuttlebutt on the UK forums it's Sussex I). At least one UK online homebrew store has them for direct sale.

Adnams yeast is supposedly WLP025/WY1335 British Ale II
 
I like 002. Though I am not experienced enough to say what it does to malt flavor or cleanup.

I also like the 1469 yorkshire for esters, as well as whitbread 1098, 1099. I think Nottingham has potential, but I haven't made a great beer with it yet.
 
I really like WLP006 Bedford British. It has a great ester profile. Only problem is that it's seasonally available.

I think WLP013 London Ale gives a maltier flavor though.

Wlp013 might be my favorite yeast period. I like the tough of mineral profile too
 
005, 006, and 013. If I had to pick a favorite, I'd pick 005. Just an awesome yeast.
 
With the exception of wy1098, I pretty much like all the english strains wyeast has to offer (never used whitelabs). I use wy1318 almost exclusively as a house strain now, it's really a joy to work with. It works fast, drops clear almost instantly and produces balanced beers. The only caveat is that it is not a great attenuator and thus can leave the beer a bit worty/not crisp if the OG is too high.
 
With the exception of wy1098, I pretty much like all the english strains wyeast has to offer (never used whitelabs). I use wy1318 almost exclusively as a house strain now, it's really a joy to work with. It works fast, drops clear almost instantly and produces balanced beers. The only caveat is that it is not a great attenuator and thus can leave the beer a bit worty/not crisp if the OG is too high.

1318 is awesome, if you want an English ester bomb that doesn't attenuate particularly well. I usually do want that sort of thing when I'm making paler English beers, so it's my favorite English yeast. I've found that it's one of the few non-Belgians that works quite well at room temps (low 70s) with no attempt to swamp cool or any such thing. If you found 002 underwhelming from a malt perspective, than 1318 and 1469 might be your only options.
 
1318 is awesome, if you want an English ester bomb that doesn't attenuate particularly well. I usually do want that sort of thing when I'm making paler English beers, so it's my favorite English yeast. I've found that it's one of the few non-Belgians that works quite well at room temps (low 70s) with no attempt to swamp cool or any such thing. If you found 002 underwhelming from a malt perspective, than 1318 and 1469 might be your only options.

I've found that fermenting at 60-62F really supresses the esters of this particular strain (it also needs daily rousing for 3-4 days at these temperatures). Sure, it's not as clean as the chico strains, but it compares to fruitier American strains. If it attenuated a smidge more without resorting to lower mash temperature or sugar, it would almost be perfect.
 
Wy 1469 West Yorkshire. Just Awesome ester profile.


I recently brewed with this but it's not done yet but the starter smelled awesome. I kept wanting to smell it. I fermented the beer kind of cool (~64) so hopefully I still get some flavor from it. Gonna be a couple more weeks, still waiting for the damned krausen to fall.


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If you had a bad experience with 002 then you're doing it wrong. :)

But seriously, I love this yeast - huge malt enhancer, big body, great esters when fermented warmer, but can ferment cool for a cleaner flavor.

For American styles I pitch at 62, ferment at 65, then finish strong at 68-72. This increasing temp schedule is essential or you definitely will get diacetyl. For English styles I'll pitch 65, ferment 68, finish 70-75. You'll get a lot of fruit this way.

I strongly encourage you to try it again - I know what it's like to have one bad experience with something and swear it off for a long time (pils malt for me) but you eventually have to admit that tons of homebrewers and commercial breweries are doing a great job with this strain (Lagunitas, Deschutes, Big Sky are some very notable ones) and it's likely that you messed something up.
 
*starts flashing hand symbols*

S-04LYFE

I did make a dry stout last year (attempting to clone the Newcastle Werewolf Blood Red Ale, turned into dry rye stout) with wyeast's Ringwood that was really tasty so this weekend when I'm remaking it I'm using the same strain. Otherwise I am in love with S-04, so easy, I always get good attenuation in the 80-85% ranges, no off flavors (that I can detect) even up to 67Fs, and I love the slight tartness.
 
"If you had a bad experience with 002 then you're doing it wrong. :)


^+1..... this is great yeast....perfect british malt character and drops like a rock....013 aint bad too
 
WLP007 I like using this yeast for a fast turn around. It drops quickly with out cold crashing. Plus it has the James Bond thing goin on, my name is Ale, Pale Ale.
 
Going to pick 2, wyeast 1275 if you want drier finish or 1318 for something more malty. If pushed, i would pick 1318.

I find 1469 too dry and fruity, in a bad way, S04 whitbread leaves a very worty aftertaste, nottingham is too clean and 002 unstable if bottling (likely because of under attenuation from bad handling). 1028 is interesting, a bit like 1275, and 1882 and 1768 are great but only seasonal.

Hope my 2c useful.
 
"If you had a bad experience with 002 then you're doing it wrong. :)


^+1..... this is great yeast....perfect british malt character and drops like a rock....013 aint bad too

This is literally the only reason my beer turned out really good I think. The malt bill was entirely by accident (mostly american malts) and the hop bill was basically all german hops (left overs in my freezer). I hope when I rebrew it this weekend with all english malts and english hops it's still good.
 
"If you had a bad experience with 002 then you're doing it wrong. :)


^+1..... this is great yeast....perfect british malt character and drops like a rock....013 aint bad too

Agreed, wyeasts version (1968) has become my go to house yeast
 
I second the 2 or 3 that recommended WY1318. I've tried a number of English ones and ended up picking this over the Fullers strain. It's a great all-around English strain with nice esters if you treat it right. One thing to note though is its the most top-fermenting strain I've used. Huge krausen that is very dense. Last time I used it, I had a hell of a time trying to get it to drop. I'd say I had to take 3 or 4 samples by punching through the damn thing
 
I second the 2 or 3 that recommended WY1318. I've tried a number of English ones and ended up picking this over the Fullers strain. It's a great all-around English strain with nice esters if you treat it right. One thing to note though is its the most top-fermenting strain I've used. Huge krausen that is very dense. Last time I used it, I had a hell of a time trying to get it to drop. I'd say I had to take 3 or 4 samples by punching through the damn thing

You can harvest that yeast and pitch it in a next brew (i.e. top-cropping). What I do is I usually skim the first brown krausen 24-36 hours in, rouse the yeast, and harvest the second krausen if needed approximately 48 to 72 hours in. I've even harvested yeast from the top more than 90 hours in with no ill effect, but I'm sure it isn't best pratice.

I then store under sterile beer or wort in the fridge or pitch directly the slurry in a next batch.

There's usually still a yeast cap when I bottle, even after top cropping, so I just skim and discard it before racking. I like that cap since it still protects the beer somewhat from oxygen, debris, etc. and the top doesn't contact the liquid since you throw it away at packaging time.
 
You can harvest that yeast and pitch it in a next brew (i.e. top-cropping). What I do is I usually skim the first brown krausen 24-36 hours in, rouse the yeast, and harvest the second krausen if needed approximately 48 to 72 hours in. I've even harvested yeast from the top more than 90 hours in with no ill effect, but I'm sure it isn't best pratice.

I then store under sterile beer or wort in the fridge or pitch directly the slurry in a next batch.

There's usually still a yeast cap when I bottle, even after top cropping, so I just skim and discard it before racking. I like that cap since it still protects the beer somewhat from oxygen, debris, etc. and the top doesn't contact the liquid since you throw it away at packaging time.

I just harvest yeast from the starter. I find it works much better since the yeast hasn;t been stressed or exposed to hop compounds. Also, you don;t need to rely on how "top-cropping" the yeast is. I need to get a separate mini fridge for yeast storage as my veggie drawer is getting too full...
 
ESB 1968 has been my house yeast for years. It produces a nice malty profile, floccs readily, and if fermented on the cool end of its temperatures range, produces very crisp beers w/o esters.
 
I just harvest yeast from the starter. I find it works much better since the yeast hasn;t been stressed or exposed to hop compounds. Also, you don;t need to rely on how "top-cropping" the yeast is. I need to get a separate mini fridge for yeast storage as my veggie drawer is getting too full...

Whatever floats your boat man ! I usually don't brew beer with a gajillion hops, so cleanliness of the pitch is not an issue for me, but I could see how it could be an issue for others.

I also steal from starters when I use non top cropping strains, but I made a choice to choose a strain that can be top cropped as a house strain in order to save on costs and futzing around with starters.

By the way, I saw your username a few times before and I'm wondering if it's a Seinfeld reference [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ia02fGpUQfU[/ame] It's probably not, but, never hurts to ask :D
 
Whatever floats your boat man ! I usually don't brew beer with a gajillion hops, so cleanliness of the pitch is not an issue for me, but I could see how it could be an issue for others.

I also steal from starters when I use non top cropping strains, but I made a choice to choose a strain that can be top cropped as a house strain in order to save on costs and futzing around with starters.

By the way, I saw your username a few times before and I'm wondering if it's a Seinfeld reference https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ia02fGpUQfU It's probably not, but, never hurts to ask :D

Yeah it totally is. You're only the 2nd person to notice it and I use it for every username cause no one else has taken it already.

If you like Seinfeld, check out this poor soul that asked for a good Festivus style recipe. He figured out his error early on, but the hilarity continues:https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/festivus-style-497033/
 
Yeah it totally is. You're only the 2nd person to notice it and I use it for every username cause no one else has taken it already.

If you like Seinfeld, check out this poor soul that asked for a good Festivus style recipe. He figured out his error early on, but the hilarity continues:https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/festivus-style-497033/

The thing is with Festivus ales is that you have to account for the significant shrinkage after the boil, when you put the pot in the cold water.
 
Nottingham is a yeast you should always have in your fridge: huge temperature range (you can pretty much lager with it), great attenuation, drops like a bomb after finishing off. It's only cons are the low esters if you don't like your beer clean which at the same time might be too present if you want your beer very clean, and the fact that it attenuates so well that it can chew on your malt character. Great for a clean, dry pale ale or for chewing on a high OG triple stout. When it comes to taste I prefer S04 for middle of the road beers, tad less flocculation and attenuation but more malt and esters.

Nobody has mentioned any of the Mangrove Jacks yeasts? M79 Burton Union gets some good reviews. I really liked the M03 Newcastle Dark Ale yeast. Similar attenuation to Windsor but better malt profile and absolutely amazing deep fruity esters. Fairly much restricted to dark milds, brown ales and other beers that relish on yeast profile, though.

Also, what are your favourite Bretts for British old ales and stale stouts?
 
WLP007 I like using this yeast for a fast turn around. It drops quickly with out cold crashing. Plus it has the James Bond thing goin on, my name is Ale, Pale Ale.


Hahaha! Pretty sharp!

I've used 007 in a pale ale with excellent results! My brother used 005 in his ESB and both were very good. I like the former a bit more as it gave a very nice bready quality to the flavor profile.


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I want to make a dry stout. No budget for WLP004 yeast. Here's what I have right now:

WLP013
Wyeast 1450
Nottingham
Safale 05

Any opinion on what will do the best in a session dry stout?
 
I've not used 1450

For a lower abv one I'd be tempted to stay away from notty and s05. I know it's a dry stout that has less/little yeast character but I'd reckon they would offer too little to the beer and make it too thin. If you wanted to make a 5%+ dry stout then they'd be fine imo

So I'd go with WLP013 out of them

ymmv
 
1450 is a great yeast - not British though, if that concerns you. I have used it in stouts many times. Brings out the maltiness.
 
As for English yeasts, I've been using 1318 a lot lately. Seems like a good general-purpose yeast.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'm down to the 013 or 1450. Leaning toward the 013. I've got a 013 British bitter I should bottle Wednesday. Both with 013 should make good Black and Tans. :)
 
My favorite is hands down 1469 West Yorkshire. It's my "house yeast" and I repitch from it regularly, both top cropping and bottom cropping.

Other strains I've used/enjoyed are WLP023 Burton Ale, WLP007 Dry English, 1968 London ESB, 1028 London Ale, and allegedly I'm going to learn to love 1318 London Ale III and will eventually be veritably swimming in it.
 
S04 is always good. It's not as fruity as a lot of English strains, but it starts quickly and clears nicely. I'd be comfortable using it in any English or American beer.

I used Notty last week for the first time in a year for a blonde ale I want to be lager-like. It was my first batch using my new 6 gallon glass carboy. Like an idiot I didn't use a blowoff tube. The bung and airlock shot out like a rocket.

I love 1318. It's worked great in ESBs, milds, a milk stout, and even a red IPA I brewed with Pearl malt. I was going to use it again for another run of English beers, but my LHBS was out. Instead I'm giving WLP023 Burton Ale a shot. My first batch is a robust porter. I'm anxious to see how it comes out.


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I'll have to agree with many others, 1318 is great. I use it in 50% of my beers. I find that it's especially good with my stouts personally.
 
I used 1318 one time and thought it had a black licorice type taste to it. Perhaps it wasn't the yeast?
 

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