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FastFerment conical

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Another +1 on the racking cane/auto syphon. And I like the way the wort fermented completely and quickly.
My only not like is the tendency for trub to clog the bottom of the conical. First batch I had left the valve closed and the clog was really bad. Second batch, I dumped the trub twice the fist day before pitching the yeast and then closed the valve. Fermentation was fantastic, however when the yeast dropped, it clogged the bottom of the conical. I think that next time I'll just leave the valve open and see what happens.
Bob
 
Another +1 on the racking cane/auto syphon. And I like the way the wort fermented completely and quickly.
My only not like is the tendency for trub to clog the bottom of the conical. First batch I had left the valve closed and the clog was really bad. Second batch, I dumped the trub twice the fist day before pitching the yeast and then closed the valve. Fermentation was fantastic, however when the yeast dropped, it clogged the bottom of the conical. I think that next time I'll just leave the valve open and see what happens.
Bob


If you read the QA on their site, they suggest letting the wort sit in the conical for 5 hours and settle then dump the ball out before pitching the yeast. This lets the junk settle out. I've done this with the last three batches and have been much happier.
 
1. I can keg a full 5 gallon batch. My glass carboy always lost some in blowoff or sediment. Now I fill the keg completely.

A definite plus with plenty of head space. Before I started kegging, I would brew & bottle 6-1/2 gal batches. I miss the additional volume but NOT dealing with the bottling...

2. Much easier to clean. I can get my arm in with a scouring pad and easily sanitize it. My glass carboy needed a bent handle brush and often days of soaking to come clean.
I've had one of my FF for almost two years. It's starting to develop stain ring from the krausen and I have only ever used a soft sponge to clean the inside. That stain tells me the surface of the plastic is starting to degrade and is rough enough to become susceptible to staining. The plastic will continue to degrade and at some point will become a problem for infections. Plastic fermenters do have a useful end of life.

But in order to prolong the life of the plastic, as others have said, I would not use anything rough like a scouring pad for cleaning the inside. At most, use a soft sponge. I've even seen some never touch the inside and only use PBW to clean it but I haven't gone that far. That's a lot of PBW when you brew 2-3 batches a month...

1. Transferring wort from the kettle into the fermenter is harder. I have to stand on a step pouring about 6 gallons slowly to not make a mess and avoid pouring the trub in.
After flame-out, I elevate my BK up on a stand so the ball-valve of the BK is above the top of the FF. Place a large plastic funnel in the top of the FF. Take a sanitized paint strainer bag and drape it over the top of the funnel to filter out some of the hop/trub. Then use a length of tubing to drain the wort from the elevated BK into the funnel/FF.
But that's a pain too...

2. Thermometer port is neat but not needed and potential for leaks and contamination. Easier to measure the temp in the environment and assume the beer will be similar.
In my case, I like and use the thermowell. I have a temp controlled ferm chamber and have a temp probe in the thermowell. It's especially important to know wort temp before pitching. Though things will settle down and equalize over the next 12 hours or so.

3. The threads on the lid and bowl assembly get tough to unscrew after fermenting. I'll try some vegetable oil next time.
I have had trouble getting the collection ball off sometimes. I end up using a cheap rubber strap wrench to get it loose.
Craftsman-Budget-Strap-Wrench-Set.jpg

In 25 years of brewing, this is the most innovative equipment available at low cost to the home-brewer that I have seen. My friends and I think my beer is the best we have tasted. I still have my glass carboys, but if the FastFerment continues to work well, those will be going on Craigslist.
Cheers!
Wow. That's a long time to have been brewing beer!

I bet this plethora of information (good & bad) wasn't available when you first got into it.

I do like the FF as well. I've been critical at times of the product and company but they seem to have things straightened out and the cost is very reasonable compared to other products on the market.

I hope something I wrote is of use to you or for someone. Good luck!
:mug:
 
I put my burner on a water heater stand, about 18" off the floor. I use a kettle with a valve on the bottom and the valve is just about the same height as the top of the FF when I transfer. I sometimes have to lift the kettle to speed the process but not until most of the wort is transferred so it's not a big deal.

To clean my FF I only rinse, wipe with a sponge and then fill with PBW and let it sit 24 hours. It still looks new.
 
Whirlpooling wort really helps reduce trub I believe. I get very little in the FF this way.
I don't have to worry about transfer because I use a Grainfather and pump the chilled wort right into the FF. The GF handles it through 12 feet of hose! And between the two, cleanup is a breeze. I immediately rinse my FF with hot water and then add some warm water and PBW and swirl it thoroughly. 90% of the time this cleans it right up but I take a washcloth and drop it in and use it for the sides/ring. Only once have I had to apply any elbow grease. And I have three FF in a temp controlled environment and use the thermowell also to check the two that are not connected to a Beer bug.
In 20 years of brewing, this and the Grainfather are two of the best things I have encountered.
 
Whirlpooling wort really helps reduce trub I believe. I get very little in the FF this way.

In 20 years of brewing, this and the Grainfather are two of the best things I have encountered.

I got the same system a couple of months ago after a 3 year brewing sabbatical and can't agree more. They are truly made for each other. Both streamline the brewing process making it less a chore and more enjoyable. Max capacity on the GF= max capacity on the FF. I use anti foam drops to avoid boil overs/ blow offs. I used to brew 10 gal batches, so I am only missing 3 gallons. The ease of use allows for more brew days which more than makes up for it.

I'm curious how you do your whirlpool. I still get a lot of trub transferred. I was thinking of putting a SS strainer on the FF to strain some out and maybe aerate a bit.
 
I'm curious how you do your whirlpool. I still get a lot of trub transferred. I was thinking of putting a SS strainer on the FF to strain some out and maybe aerate a bit.

I used to do it Manually:D I would stir like a madman for several minutes.

But since then I have replaced the plastic blades on a Mix-stir with some stainless steel ones and now stir with that for about a minute and then wait about 5 minutes (and often add a flame out hop during this) before I turn on the pump. I have already run wort thru the CFC and have temporarily disconnected it while I do this. I put it back on when I finish stirring and then run cold water through it to get it nice and pre-chilled during that 5 minute wait.
 
I've been eyeing the jacket they make for temp control. Trying to decided whether to build a fermentation chamber or maybe buy the jacket. Anyone using the jacket? Are you happy with it?
 
I know some with the jacket and they are pleased. I have a large cooler that holds 3 fast fermenters so I don't use the jacket.
 
I used to do it Manually:D I would stir like a madman for several minutes.

But since then I have replaced the plastic blades on a Mix-stir with some stainless steel ones and now stir with that for about a minute and then wait about 5 minutes (and often add a flame out hop during this) before I turn on the pump. I have already run wort thru the CFC and have temporarily disconnected it while I do this. I put it back on when I finish stirring and then run cold water through it to get it nice and pre-chilled during that 5 minute wait.

Did a brew last night and it worked like a champ! :ban: Put a strainer on the FF as I transfered- 0 gunk even though there was a ton of hot break due to flaked rye grist! I forgot to sanitize the CFC beforehand, so I just opened the valve enough to let a small flow go through with no problems.
 
I use the jacket. It does the job. I have used both for keeping the temp up (for a saison) and keeping the temp down (lager). It's well constructed so should last.
 
I use the jacket. It does the job. I have used both for keeping the temp up (for a saison) and keeping the temp down (lager). It's well constructed so should last.

Will it work with the stand, or do you have to mount it on a wall?
 
What kind of cooler do you have? Is it possible to send photos?

I have the traditional 72" True beverage cooler that you see in many convenience stores or bars. Nothing special. Found it used for a song. I built wooden stands for the FastFermenters. The only drawback is everything ferments at the same temperature, which is fine most of the time as I tend to keep similar requirements running at the same time.

The jacket definitely works on the stand or on the mounts. It has cutouts and patches to cover them when not needed (in stand).
 
I recently received a FF and have seen different mounting heights. I brew and also make wine. I plan to do both in my FF. Can anyone give me a height that would be good for mounting? I will probably bottle directly from the FF. Thanks.
 
The key (in my opinion) is to give yourself enough space on the top. You are going to fill them, then move to the brackets. As long as you have enough space to the ceiling, you're fine.
 
Make sure your into the wall studs. If I we're to mount mine on the wall I'd have it 4 to 6 inches higher than a keg. I wouldn't want to be to close to the ceiling.
 
Apologies if this has already been answered;

Has anyone had luck with pressure transfers using the FF? I bought a lid and drilled a hole big enough to secure a ball lock on it. I've attached a hose from the barb at the bottom to a liquid ball lock and then under 1-2psi of pressure tried to send the beer into my keg (with the pressure relief valve open).

It may just be because I've been doing big dry hops (I always try to dump the hops until the beer runs clear before racking) but I can't get any flow into my keg this way.

Any thoughts on what I could do?
 
I'm hopping on the 14g FF train! Waiting for it ship. I'm doing all gravity fed transfers so I'm building a rolling cart that the stand will sit on that's just a little taller than a keg. Going to get building this weekend!
 
old thread but.... I've been using a FF for years for small batches, it was the Vvessel when I bought. Still going strong today
 
So I received the 14 g fast ferment on the mail last night and it's already been more hassle than it's worth. First only two screws threaded in without effort when putting the stand & leg extensions together. Then I finally got it after using my own screws that I had. Finally got the stand together and assembled everything as instructed with the Teflon around the threads, and I can't get it to stop leaking from where the conical meets the top of the ball valve. I have like 8 layers of Teflon around the threads and screwed it on as tight as I can without a strap wrench. Still just extremely leaky. Any tips? More tape?
 
So I received the 14 g fast ferment on the mail last night and it's already been more hassle than it's worth. First only two screws threaded in without effort when putting the stand & leg extensions together. Then I finally got it after using my own screws that I had. Finally got the stand together and assembled everything as instructed with the Teflon around the threads, and I can't get it to stop leaking from where the conical meets the top of the ball valve. I have like 8 layers of Teflon around the threads and screwed it on as tight as I can without a strap wrench. Still just extremely leaky. Any tips? More tape?
My experience has been to just keep using more tape until it stops leaking.

I personally have been using the 7g fast ferment and while it has been a good fermenter I think I will be selling it and going with the anvil stainless brew bucket.
 
My experience has been to just keep using more tape until it stops leaking.

I personally have been using the 7g fast ferment and while it has been a good fermenter I think I will be selling it and going with the anvil stainless brew bucket.

Thanks for the response. I'll keep layering the tape on! Does that much tape make it a real inconvenience to clean? I'd imagine you should take the valve apart as much as you can after every brew.
 
Thanks for the response. I'll keep layering the tape on! Does that much tape make it a real inconvenience to clean? I'd imagine you should take the valve apart as much as you can after every brew.
No problem! I used to not take the ball valve apart after a brew. I would just work it back and forth with some hot water and call it good, after taking it apart one day I quickly realised that this method was not sufficient.

I now take it apart after every brew, but the past few times I have not added new teflon tape to it. I just remember how many turns till it comes off, clean and do the same turns putting it back on. Haven't had any leaks.

The thermowell on the other hand i have not taken apart as I found that a pain in the ass for getting it not to leak.
 
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