• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

FastFerment conical

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
There are a few reasons you should buy this over other units. Normally I'd give this 4 out 5 stars but I have a few sold separate accessories that make it a 5 star purchase. If you get this I'd recommend a stand, and a strap and the rubber gasket.
1st It's plastic. Metal is heavy and difficult to clean and can scratch up your bathtub if that's where you are forced to clean your equipment like I am. The plastic is thick and durable. No plastic smell (after the first cleaning). No stains after about 10 batches.
2nd Other conicals don't have the collection ball. Fast ferment collection ball makes it a truly closed system. Other conicals will drain the sediment out but will either draw in air from the top or bottom. And that introduces foreign air into the system. Which isn't that big of a deal. Because when its time for secondary the yeast has ideally already taken over the environment in there. But if you really want to eliminate foreign elements this is a good way to go. Also the collection ball is great if you are into saving yeast. And man does it save time not having to clean sanitize another carboy.
3rd the price. It's way cheaper then other conicals, simply put. But like I said you should expect to drop some more money on a couple extra accessories.
4th It comes with separate attachment for bottling/kegging. Includes tubing and pipe thread tape. Nice touch.
Almost everything in life has its downsides. Here are a few I've noticed so far.
It's pretty tall. So tall that putting in a temperature controlled fermentation chamber is tough. I have not tried in an upright fridge yet I admit. My keezer does not fit it well and would need a really tall collar installed to fit this thing. So laggering would be tough with this thing. But I found out they sell a temp control jacket now. So I guess problem solved.
The gasket it comes with works. But it would be nice if it shipped with a rubber more durable gasket. I was a pre release pre order purchaser. So I got one of the first runs of the fast ferment, a few months later they released a rubber gasket. So maybe the new ones ship with that now? Not Sure. But again the one it did ship with still works even after 10 batches.
The thermometer well is at an awkward angle. Not awful but still pointed a little too far down. Minor inconvenience though, hardly worth mentioning. Also there really isn't a better place they could have installed a thermal well anyway.

All in all REALLY great product. Very happy with it. Well thought out and designed. I plan on buying another soon enough. I'm done with other fermenters for now.
 
It appears FastBrewing is driving folks to this forum to post product reviews.

Bad form FastBrewing!!!!

:mad:
 
Id like to get in on that offer but I bought mine at my LHBS and they don't list it on their web site
 
I've been using the FastFerment since the beginning. I pre-ordered 2. They've been my main fermentation vessels since then. One thing I've started doing about 4 batches ago is to mindfully eliminate the amount of troub. Here are the steps I take:

1. When going from the mash tun to the brew kettle I run the hose through a hop spider to catch grain that makes it through
2. I do the same when going from the brew kettle to the FastFerment

Now I only end up with one collection ball of troub and it's easier to harvest/wash yeast.

Happy brewing! CHEERS!
 
The $90 is definitely worth it. I have had mine for over a year and have done countless beers in it. So far I have had no issues with it being plastic. I do clean it after every brew to avoid leaching any flavors into future brews. I like it because it is almost everything you need in one vessel. It eliminates other unnecessary equipment. It eliminates the need for a separate primary and secondary fermenter. And if you bottle it also eliminates the need for a separate bottling bucket. It has cleaned up my "brew house". Not only can you cut back on equipment, but this thing saves you lots of time. No more wasting time transferring from one vessel to the next. Swap out a collection ball and you're done! Come time to keg or bottle and you just hook up the tube and you're good to go. The best thing about the fastferment in my opinion is you get cleaner and better tasting beer! Every time you have to open your fermenter and stick a tube in it to transfer to another vessel you risk contamination. With the fast ferment, you never have that problem because you never have to open it and expose your beer. So yes, the $90 is worth the savings in equipment, time and better beer! Great product.
 
For people who bottle directly from their FastFerment: How do you deal with the trub that ends up on the sloped sides of the fermenter that has not fallen down into the collection ball? As soon as I mix in my priming sugar it gets all stirred up into the beer. I end up racking to a different bucket to mix in the sugar.
 
I have had this issue before where the trub builds up on the sides. Solution, Just change out your collection ball another time. Yes you may lose a little bit of your beer but I'd rather do that than have all that extra trub get mixed in and ruin my beer. Swapping out the ball multiple times has worked well for me.
 
For people who bottle directly from their FastFerment: How do you deal with the trub that ends up on the sloped sides of the fermenter that has not fallen down into the collection ball? As soon as I mix in my priming sugar it gets all stirred up into the beer. I end up racking to a different bucket to mix in the sugar.

Despite risking an awkward moment if someone walked in on you trying this, but has anyone tried pressing an aggressive vibrator against the side to maybe loosen the trub up?

I keg so don't have this problem. Btw.
 
Despite risking an awkward moment if someone walked in on you trying this, but has anyone tried pressing an aggressive vibrator against the side to maybe loosen the trub up?

I keg so don't have this problem. Btw.

True confessions time: I tried it (don't judge!) but it was relatively ineffective. Also the vibrations tend to release dissolved CO2 so not a good idea. Time and gravity are the only things that work reliably. I also change the collection ball when fermentation is about 75% done. When the valve is opened (gently) after changing the ball, the resulting agitation is helpful in shaking some of that trub loose.

Of all the skills and attributes required for this hobby I have found patience to be perhaps the most important.
 
I haven't used mine but I figure empty the ball once after fermentation is done to empty the trub. Then before you bottle or keg cold crash it to get everything else to drop to the bottom.

Or rack to a bottling bucket, cold crash in that over night.
 
I purchased one of these so ill give the pros and cons on this product and answer some of the questions. Pros: it works like they advertised and it does ferment faster. cons: cleanup- you have to really take the unit apart including the ball valve at the bottom and really clean it and re-assemble. it can be a pain. and should be done after each batch. the seal at the top- does not provide a good seal. now as far as temp control and how to use in a chest freezer etc. the stand will work in a chest freezer that is modified to raise the lid of freezer for taps and fast fermenter will fit. with this when doing IPA recepies consider transfer to carboy to dry hop and crash out.
 
I recently started emptying my collection ball a day after brewing to allow the trub to fall to the bottom. I then add my yeast and empty the ball again after fermentation is complete. I usually knock on it a few times as I pass it during the fermentation stage too, but I have no way of knowing if that helps to settle sediment into the ball or not. I have noticed that the collection ball is only slightly full of trub when I remove it prior to kegging, and when I filter my beer it is noticeably clearer on the filters.
 
So I understand if you want to save the yeast the collection ball is handy but if you are just wanting to dump the trub and sediment could you just skip the collection ball and open the valve, dump everything quickly, then close it. you wouldn't have to worry about introducing oxygen when putting an empty collection ball back on and can just add the racking adapter when ready to transfer?
 
If you really wanted to save/harvest yeast do it when you make your starter.

Id just find a threaded plastic adapter to replace the collection ball with maybe a 1" tube attached. dump trub/sed then let sit as long as you want to let ferment. I don't see how oxygen could make it's way in at all
 
I purchased one of these so ill give the pros and cons on this product and answer some of the questions. Pros: it works like they advertised and it does ferment faster. cons: cleanup- you have to really take the unit apart including the ball valve at the bottom and really clean it and re-assemble. it can be a pain. and should be done after each batch. the seal at the top- does not provide a good seal. now as far as temp control and how to use in a chest freezer etc. the stand will work in a chest freezer that is modified to raise the lid of freezer for taps and fast fermenter will fit. with this when doing IPA recepies consider transfer to carboy to dry hop and crash out.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but you're all wet... Get it!? ;)

For the benefit of any new folks coming to this thread, everything called out in the quoted post above as a Pro and a Con is simply not true nor correct.

First, "It" doesn't ferment any faster. That's all up to the yeast. The name came from the parent company "FastRack". Second, disassembling the ball valve after every use is not needed and could prematurely damage the valve and cause leaking from such frequent dis-assembly/reassembly. Third, racking to a carboy for dry hopping?? Not sure where that came from either. Not needed.

The quoted post above is so inaccurate, it makes me wonder if the FF folks posted it to :goat: someone like me to chime in and sing their praises. I won't sing their praises but I will debunk inaccurate statements. I would encourage newbies to read through this thread as well as the other and make up their own mind as there's a lot of good information that has been captured.

If the post above is legitimate, I would encourage you to present your posts as opinion. Otherwise a newbie might read them and think it came from someone who knows what they're taking about...

Cheers!
 
So I understand if you want to save the yeast the collection ball is handy but if you are just wanting to dump the trub and sediment could you just skip the collection ball and open the valve, dump everything quickly, then close it. you wouldn't have to worry about introducing oxygen when putting an empty collection ball back on and can just add the racking adapter when ready to transfer?

I have not tried this but I don't think it would be a workable method with the FF. When reopening the valve after the first CB change;
  1. I have seen it take a few days before the rest of the sediment drops into the CB.
  2. The beer flows through the center of the trub. While it flows, it pulls the trub as it flows but not all at once. You may end up wasting a lot of beer before it started to run clear.

As I said; I've never tried it but I'm extrapolating based on what I've observed...
 
Im using my "v vessel" which is basically the older version only with a superior camlock fitting at the bottom (my opinion) and a large stopper in the top which has advantages and disadvantages over the newer screw on lid... I Dont like the fact that, unlike all my stainless conicals the yeast appears to be sticking to the sidewalls on the conical bottom pretty bad... this makes me thing the transfer wont be so clear when I empty it to a keg.

I cracked the plastic valve before I even got to use it and replaced it with a 3/4" stainless ballvalve.
 
Im using my "v vessel" which is basically the older version only with a superior camlock fitting at the bottom (my opinion) and a large stopper in the top which has advantages and disadvantages over the newer screw on lid... I Dont like the fact that, unlike all my stainless conicals the yeast appears to be sticking to the sidewalls on the conical bottom pretty bad... this makes me thing the transfer wont be so clear when I empty it to a keg.

I cracked the plastic valve before I even got to use it and replaced it with a 3/4" stainless ballvalve.

A definite drawback of the plastic conical over stainless. The plastic has enough texture in it to allow the solid particles to cling to the side. I have to admit, I have used the vibrator on the side trick to get most of the solids to slide down into the CB...

Another drawback could be/will be longevity. Just through normal use and cleaning after each use, at some point the interior plastic will get scratched and become a problem with infections. But then again they are 1/4-1/3 the price of a stainless conical. We'll see...
 
I have not tried this but I don't think it would be a workable method with the FF. When reopening the valve after the first CB change;
  1. I have seen it take a few days before the rest of the sediment drops into the CB.
  2. The beer flows through the center of the trub. While it flows, it pulls the trub as it flows but not all at once. You may end up wasting a lot of beer before it started to run clear.

As I said; I've never tried it but I'm extrapolating based on what I've observed...

Good points. Will be brewing tonight and will leave the CB on. Be the first batch using the new fermenter :)
 
well well well jbb3 does that stand for just a big bull****ter 3? dont respond to my post when you have no clue what your brewin. my post is far from inaccurate. go ahead and brew your stank beer that tastes like band aids and dont clean that valve out. Because thats exactly what happens ok. the trub gets trapped in the ball valve and needs cleaning out or you get rouge yeast strain in your batch. but then again i would not know how to brew or use this since ive only been brewing for 5 years and have used this fast fermenter since induction to the marketplace. So now im debunking your trash talking and weak ablity to try and slander a good overall rating of a product. Dont like it report me and go back to making bad beer. your the one that knows nothing about what your talking about.
 
well well well jbb3 does that stand for just a big bull****ter 3? dont respond to my post when you have no clue what your brewin. my post is far from inaccurate. go ahead and brew your stank beer that tastes like band aids and dont clean that valve out. Because thats exactly what happens ok. the trub gets trapped in the ball valve and needs cleaning out or you get rouge yeast strain in your batch. but then again i would not know how to brew or use this since ive only been brewing for 5 years and have used this fast fermenter since induction to the marketplace. So now im debunking your trash talking and weak ablity to try and slander a good overall rating of a product. Dont like it report me and go back to making bad beer. your the one that knows nothing about what your talking about.
I'm going to jump in here and try to keep my comments professional and too the point.
The reality is It really doesnt do anything special to make the wort ferment any faster than any other method such as a carboy... neither do any of my stainless conicals for that matter.. Only temp control , aeration and proper yeast health /pitching can do that. If you believe otherwise as you've stated I suggest giving some basis for the belief

As far as the plastic valve, you really dont need to disassemble and clean as long as you rinse and sanitize it well right after uses while making sure to actuate the ball ballvalve a few times while rinsing and under sanitizer...
some ballvalve designs do have dead space where nasty things grow but the pvc valve on my V Vessel which is the older type of fermenter that the fast fermenter was based on when it came out like 3 years ago does not even come apart for cleaning and I have not read of any contamination issues from its users.. like I already mentioned mine cracked and I have since replaced it with a stainless valve which does need to come apart to be cleaned to make the likelyhood of contamination less possible.

And I'm sorry but I dont follow on your IPA comment suggesting a secondary should be used...I know thats your opinion and thats fine But im going to give my opinion and explain why I have it. Simply put transfering to a secondary defeats the whole point of a conical which is to allow you to dump the dead yeast and trub at the end from the bottom without needing to transfer... Once the yeast collection ball has been filled and dumped a person can choose to reattach it and send oxygen into your conical or simply do what a lot of folks with other conicals do and not attach the ball after it fills for the first time, instead open the valve and drain the trub/hops from the bottom slowly with the top cracked open. some people use methods of dry hopping where the hops are hanging from the top in a mesh bag or stay in some sort of hop canister. I recently used the mesh bag method along with a hollow ball to make it float.
 
well well well jbb3 does that stand for just a big bull****ter 3? Dont respond to my post when you have no clue what your brewin. My post is far from inaccurate. Go ahead and brew your stank beer that tastes like band aids and dont clean that valve out. Because thats exactly what happens ok. The trub gets trapped in the ball valve and needs cleaning out or you get rouge yeast strain in your batch. But then again i would not know how to brew or use this since ive only been brewing for 5 years and have used this fast fermenter since induction to the marketplace. So now im debunking your trash talking and weak ablity to try and slander a good overall rating of a product. Dont like it report me and go back to making bad beer. Your the one that knows nothing about what your talking about.

My apologies for the offensive remarks. I honestly thought it was the FF folks posting and fishing for feedback. Let's agree to disagree. Good luck to you wet...
 
I've completed the 3rd brewing using a fast ferment conical fermenter. The first had sealing issue and Fastferment promptly replaced the vessel, lid, and lid gasket. Old lid and gasket works fine with new vessel. Three things I like about it
1. I can keg a full 5 gallon batch. My glass carboy always lost some in blowoff or sediment. Now I fill the keg completely.
2. Much easier to clean. I can get my arm in with a scouring pad and easily sanitize it. My glass carboy needed a bent handle brush and often days of soaking to come clean.
3. Easy to remove sediment and cleanly harvest the yeast. Filling the keg is quick and simple as well.

I don't like:
1. Transferring wort from the kettle into the fermenter is harder. I have to stand on a step pouring about 6 gallons slowly to not make a mess and avoid pouring the trub in.
2. Thermometer port is neat but not needed and potential for leaks and contamination. Easier to measure the temp in the environment and assume the beer will be similar.
3. The threads on the lid and bowl assembly get tough to unscrew after fermenting. I'll try some vegetable oil next time.

In 25 years of brewing, this is the most innovative equipment available at low cost to the home-brewer that I have seen. My friends and I think my beer is the best we have tasted. I still have my glass carboys, but if the FastFerment continues to work well, those will be going on Craigslist.

I am considering using the conical fermenter that didn't seal as a lauter tun. My sparge arm would fit inside and it would be pretty simple to put a false bottom in to hold the grain bed. If anyone has experience with that, please share.

Cheers!
 
1. Transferring wort from the kettle into the fermenter is harder. I have to stand on a step pouring about 6 gallons slowly to not make a mess and avoid pouring the trub in.


Cheers!

Just use a racking cane. I put my kettle on top of my keezer. The conical sits in a brew bucket on the floor (did not buy a stand and the conical sits perfectly in a bucket). Fills just fine with no mess.
 
Back
Top