FastFerment conical fermenter??????

[Haydenp]

If anyone is having issues with leaking (JAG107?) from the union valve (not the threads that attach it to the bottom of the conical, but the joint on the bottom of the valve) check the valve itself.
The valve ball (the part that rotates inside) is tightened down with a threaded ring inside on the bottom of the ball that pushes up and creates a tight seal.
This insert piece can unthread when you loosen the outer ring when removing the ball, especially if you rotate the ball to unthread it . I opened mine and found this piece to move very easily.
Put some Teflon tape on its threads to stiffen it and it seems ok once seated. (must be done with empty vessel)
If you grab the red handle and feel any side to side play, this is the issue. Mine loosened so much that it was a steady stream flowing out the ball valve when it was in the closed position.

A key to remember is to keep the collection ball from rotating and only loosen the ring when removing.

 

[cantrell00]

Mine was not air tight either.. I sanded the top of the FF to allow for a flat, sealed connection but no luck... I wrapped the top threads with teflon also...

I then wrapped around the edge of the cap with electrical tape & not the blow off tube is bubbling...

Only thing that would work. Ugly but effective, FYI

 

[ku5e]

Thought about this but it wouldn't be big enough to connect both ends and still have room for hands.



I doubt it would rip it in half, worst case it would rip out the bolt fittings, pretty sure if they can take the weight on the supplied stands they should be able to take the same weight with handles.

No doubt it can take the weight of the filled container (50 pounds or so) at the nubs. But it was designed to do this as a static load, or with no twisting. However, what is proposed, handles to carry the vessel from these nubs, will create a torqued load. This could cause the seems that run down the sides of the vessels to be under stress and could cause them to split. The only way to tell is to test. Please let us know how it goes. It would be nice to be able to do that. For me, I will keep using the ff straps until she one proves me wrong.

 

[cantrell00]

Just wrap you arms around it & pick the thing up...

 

[jleiii]

I used Heat Tape from Reptile Basics to make a heated blanket. The 4" material is 6 watts per foot, and I was able to fit 5 feet in 3 pcs. This gives 30 watts, a bit more than I need in my chambers (24 watt fans, alone) so should not be too much. Hoping to test it soon.
I'll add an outer wrap, maybe thin flashing, and a second reflectix layer, depending on the fit.

 

[1975brewer]

If anyone is having issues with leaking (JAG107?) from the union valve (not the threads that attach it to the bottom of the conical, but the joint on the bottom of the valve) check the valve itself.
The valve ball (the part that rotates inside) is tightened down with a threaded ring inside on the bottom of the ball that pushes up and creates a tight seal.
This insert piece can unthread when you loosen the outer ring when removing the ball, especially if you rotate the ball to unthread it . I opened mine and found this piece to move very easily.
Put some Teflon tape on its threads to stiffen it and it seems ok once seated. (must be done with empty vessel)
If you grab the red handle and feel any side to side play, this is the issue. Mine loosened so much that it was a steady stream flowing out the ball valve when it was in the closed position.

A key to remember is to keep the collection ball from rotating and only loosen the ring when removing.

Any chance you are missing the o-ring? I don't mean the 1 that falls off when you remove the collection ball. I have been taking mine apart for cleaning & even with the handle (wrench) that ring is very hard to turn. If the o-ring is in place I don't believe the ring will turn that easy.

 

[bembel]

Taking gravity samples up until now has been a PITA. Should be a bit easier now . Will be testing it out this upcoming weekend

Hello GREM

Could you please share the info on how drilled a second hole for your sample port and what sized / type valve you used?

I am afraid to drill any new holes since I cant find silicon washers and gaskets that fit onto the thread size I hope to use (all are tapered )

The original theromwell port has been bored out and they added an insert, I assume you just drilled though.

Thanks

 

[cantrell00]

Hello GREM

Could you please share the info on how drilled a second hole for your sample port and what sized / type valve you used?

I am afraid to drill any new holes since I cant find silicon washers and gaskets that fit onto the thread size I hope to use (all are tapered )

The original theromwell port has been bored out and they added an insert, I assume you just drilled though.

Thanks

You need a 1/2 male coupling to connect whatever valve type you desire.

For a thermowell, drill a hole in the lid & add a stopper with a stainless thermowell.

Stainless Brewing sells a very economical version of one. It is just a 3/8" piece of stainless pipe with a compression adapter & plug on the end of it. It is long enough to reach all the way down into the wort.

 

[Greg83]

Cantrell00. The picture above looks great! I'm having a HUGE problem which I hope someone can help with in future batches. I made a Union Jack clone and it completely go clogged! So bad that even shoving a small rubber spatula couldn't get the clog out. It was a nightmare and I basically ruined the batch . I also sat my temp control probe in the thermowell and it fell out resulting in the heat lamp staying on and the wort to warm up to 90 degrees for 3 days! That was my fault though. The clog made this basically unusable. I did not strain my wort after boil and there were a lot of hop additions and dry hops. Mine looked like the picture above but NOTHING would come out. I wound up dumping the whole batch because it smelt awful from the heat any shoving random things up there to try and dislodge the clog. Even when I went to clean the fermenter the trub was packed so tight it was hard to get it out. Any recommendations that I can change in the future. I did purge the batch the next day after brewing then added the yeast but there was still soooo much sediment. This whole thing sucks because I just bought a kegerator setup and was really looking forward to using it!

Thanks for any help in advance

 

[JAG107]

Update on leaks: I have not had any leaks in the past 4 batches now, including the current Belgian wit that's a week into primary. I haven't used any tool help to tighten, but sometimes need a little help from a pair of channel locks to loosen the big ring on the union. One problem though: upon installing the collection ball last week, BY HAND, the male threads on the ball sheared off! So glad FF shipped a second ball with my unit. Maybe I need to let them know and see if they'll replace the broken one? Anyway, be careful when you put your ball on, those male threads aren't very strong!

 

[Hoppslover]

I have had a hard time getting the collection ball off on the two I have. I have run 2 batches through each. When doing my third in one I decided I would put some keg lube on the threads and not bring the nut up as tight. It looks like this has helped. I checked it yesterday and was able to unscrew it pretty easy.

 

[Newsman]

Just got an email from them. They now have a 3mm rubber gasket available on their site for 2/$10. The email said that it will eventually be cheaper through resellers.

 

[Hoppslover]

I picked up my seals early. I have been talking to them about my lid seals leaking for a couple of months. I fixed it with sanding and adding more of the old seals. Hopefully one of these will take care of that issue.

 

[Theheadsn]

Really interested to see how those 3mm seals work. I just bought the FF from Northern Brewers this past weekend, should get it by Friday. Emailed up the guys at FF about trying to get a set of these seeing as I just ordered the fermenter. We'll see what they email me back with

 

[MrKelly]

I didn't drain any sediment before pitching the yeast and had pitched right away on the current batch. This was on the 22nd.

I got very little bubbling that stopped within about 2 days. I'm positive I have all good seals.

Is the yeast trapped under the trub do you think?
Can I just auger it out with a sanitized coat hanger?

Can I just dump the ball back into the fermenter?

Suggestions to save this batch?

 

[MrKelly]

Taking gravity samples up until now has been a PITA. Should be a bit easier now . Will be testing it out this upcoming weekend

Could one use this valve to purge the new collection ball of air with beer instead of some use CO2?

 

[ku5e]

I didn't drain any sediment before pitching the yeast and had pitched right away on the current batch. This was on the 22nd.

I got very little bubbling that stopped within about 2 days. I'm positive I have all good seals.

Is the yeast trapped under the trub do you think?
Can I just auger it out with a sanitized coat hanger?

Can I just dump the ball back into the fermenter?

Suggestions to save this batch?

MrKelly,

Bubbles are a sign of fermentation but not the only one. Especially when there was is a lot of head room in a fermentation chamber. The ff is a 7.5 gallon vessel, so a 5 gallon vessel leaves 577 cubic inches for gasses to compress in.
The only true way to know if the batch fermented, is to take a hydrometer reading. Without a sampling port, I suggest you sterilize a turkey baster and draw a sample. If the SG is close to your prediction (1.010 or so) then it is done. Then I would remove the ball and put the drain hose in. If you keg, then I would shoot a little co2 up the hose to clear the path and discard the first cup or so. If you have no co2, its a little harder. I open the valve, with no attachment, very slowly. I have a bucket under it to catch up he material that is clogging the neck, then close it as soon as it clears.

If the SG is not where it needs to be, I would repitch without messing with the ball.



Remember beer is already rotten water, you can't make it worse. Or can you?

 

[jbb3]

I didn't drain any sediment before pitching the yeast and had pitched right away on the current batch. This was on the 22nd.

I got very little bubbling that stopped within about 2 days. I'm positive I have all good seals.

Is the yeast trapped under the trub do you think?
Can I just auger it out with a sanitized coat hanger?

Can I just dump the ball back into the fermenter?

Suggestions to save this batch?

I don't dump the sediment prior to pitching. I'm a believer that the sediment has fermentables in it the yeasties can use to ferment and finish the beer.

If the yeast were under the trub at the beginning of fermentation, it wouldn't hinder the yeast from doing their thing. Once it's starts fermenting, it will stir up and churn the wort in the fermenter.

I would be willing to bet you may not have quite as good an air tight seal as you think??

Can you see a krausen ring on the inside of the fermenter?

Only real test is to take a gravity reading and see where it is.

 

[jleiii]

I made the mistake of pitching the yeast with the valve open and it all dropped into the ball and fermented out in no time. The wort above the valve was untouched by the yeasties. I pulled the ball put a new one on and dumped it back in to the fermenter and all was good. I opened the valve once it was obvious the whole batch was fermenting. And a volcano ensued. Note to self - dont wait too long or open fill and close before pitching.
Also made the mistake of closing the valve before fermentation was done, pressure built up and you guessed it another mini volcano.

 

[DustyBrew]

I don't dump the sediment prior to pitching. I'm a believer that the sediment has fermentables in it the yeasties can use to ferment and finish the beer.

If the yeast were under the trub at the beginning of fermentation, it wouldn't hinder the yeast from doing their thing. Once it's starts fermenting, it will stir up and churn the wort in the fermenter.

I would be willing to bet you may not have quite as good an air tight seal as you think??

Can you see a krausen ring on the inside of the fermenter?

Only real test is to take a gravity reading and see where it is.

I have done about 6 batches with the fastfermenter, 3 times I got lots of air bubble activity the other 3 no activity, once I repitched thinking it did not ferment. But in all cases fermentation was complete. I NEVER change the ball. Just leave it open everthing finishes in ball.
Cheers!

 

[MrKelly]

MrKelly,


The only true way to know if the batch fermented, is to take a hydrometer reading.

You were right, SG said it was done. Thanks, saved me from doing a ton of doing the wrong thing.

 

[ku5e]

You were right, SG said it was done. Thanks, saved me from doing a ton of doing the wrong thing.

I am glad to help you. I learned the hard way. When I was still using buckets, I would panic and do anything from shaking the bucket to needlessly repitching. Then I researched it and it all made sense. I had to learn to trust my yeasty minions.

 

[Theheadsn]

As far as the thermometer goes, would you guys recommend just buying the one that's made for the FF? Or would it be a better to buy a wire/probe one and just stick it in the thermal-well? Sadly I don't have a fermentation chamber, so it'll be going in the second bathroom shower we don't use lol Living in Southern California, the weather has been 75 ish outside most of the week, so lucky us. I know fermentation is pretty much the end up be all most important thing about making beer, so I want to get it right

 

[bembel]

As far as the thermometer goes, would you guys recommend just buying the one that's made for the FF? Or would it be a better to buy a wire/probe one and just stick it in the thermal-well? Sadly I don't have a fermentation chamber, so it'll be going in the second bathroom shower we don't use lol Living in Southern California, the weather has been 75 ish outside most of the week, so lucky us. I know fermentation is pretty much the end up be all most important thing about making beer, so I want to get it right

I have both one from FastFerment and a $6 aquarium one with a probe, I would suggest the following, which allows you to have both a sample port AND a thermometer both using the same port that is already drilled into the FF. I ordered some adaptors from us plastics and am about to set it up. A simple $6 aquarium thermometer will work just fine, and if you want to get fancy, you can get one with MIN/MAX to monitor the extremes.

Basically, I have a double sided 1/2 MNPT nipple that goes into the FF, a PVC 'T' fitting attached to that. A 6" stainless steel thermowell from Brewers Supply ($9) goes through the top of the T back into the FF though the port which has the probe from the aquarium thermometer in the back of it, It is also 1/2" NPT so it closes off one side of the 'T', a ball valve closes the base of the 'T' for sampling. Ill post pics as soon as I can. This saved me from drilling a second hole in the FF. ( and all parts included, are less than the $20 for a FF thermometer)

 

[Theheadsn]

I was thinking about doing something like that. Yes please takes pictures, and do a step by step install if you can, that would be AWESOME and greatly appreciated. I know I'm not the only FF owner that would love to get as many good ideas as possible for this thing

 

[bembel]

A lot of people ask about lack of airlock activity on the FF, unless the seal is REALLY tight on the 6 " lid, the CO2 will escape around it and you will think your fermentation is over ( or not started, or stuck, etc) , always take SG readings and always crank the lid as tight as you can!

Just last night I pitched a starter of 3068 into my 7th batch of Weizen in the FF, now I have 3 of the original white foam seals AND the new silicon gasket on the lid, and just assumed this would be a tight seal, I also crank the lid pretty tight each time. Plus, my starters give off gas and I usually see some slow airlock within an hour of pitching.

This am, went to check progress, no airlock at all? Last night there was slow airlock, now, 12 hours later, none??? Thought, Crap, the starter must have been to small or I should have kept it warmer for the first 12 hours, so I open up the lid to see if there was any yeast activity and the entire head-space was FILLED with foam. I closed it up and screwed the lid on just a tiny bit more, and the airlock exploded like Mongo eating beans in Blazing Saddles.

The small amount of Star San that I spayed on right before pitching was just enough moisture to close the seal last night, hence, airlock bubbles, but that dried up over night and all the gas was creeping out around the lid, an inch more of a turn, and I have a full seal.

Just FYI!

 

[Theheadsn]

O you have the new 3mm gaskets? I may order them. I planned on throwing some teflon tap on the threads (which will help greatly), and then adding some keg lube to the rim. Wish this wasnt such a pain in the butt like it seems, but hopefully that would work well

 

[Kampenken]

Really interested to see how those 3mm seals work. I just bought the FF from Northern Brewers this past weekend, should get it by Friday. Emailed up the guys at FF about trying to get a set of these seeing as I just ordered the fermenter. We'll see what they email me back with

Any luck? I think its total Bull$hit that the FF team doesn't send EVERY one who at least asks a new seal. This is essentially a defect, a recall! Very poor customer service if they don't and I will let them know that. I hope the rest of you are on board, they get a lot of business via HBT, let's let 'em hear it. (and btw $10?? C'mon!!).

 

[Theheadsn]

I wont get to try it out till next weekend. But I actually emailed them and asked them seeing as I just purchased the FF if I would be stuck having to purchase the gaskets as well. They pretty much told me I would have too sadly. I'm on the fence with wanting to return the FF... I like it but the more and more I think about, it may be more hassle then its worth

 

[ku5e]

The apparent gasket issue you all are stressing over is not a big deal in the long run. If you follow my logic you will agree. When you set your wort to ferment and pitch your yeast, the yeast will go to work. They eat sugar, pee alcohol, and fart CO2 (OK I tried to make a funny, but you get it). The CO2 will displace the air above the wort and ultimately seep out the airlock and the possible leak from the gasket. Since CO2 is heavier than air, you should not have a contamination risk as long as fermentation is going on.
As home brewers we need to start trusting our yeast. Forget about bubbling airlocks and use you hydrometers and/or refractometers to determine whether fermentation is going on.
This is a separate issue as to whether FF did us wrong.