Extract SMaSH recipe opinions

[deadwolfbones]

Hey guys,

Just got into brewing again recently after a long time off and I'm trying to get more familiar with the ingredients. Not ready to step up to AG yet, so I'm doing extract and PM batches.

I was thinking about doing a few SMaSH beers with extra light (100% 2-row) LME. I'd targeted Meridian and Denali hops to start with, just since they sounded interesting and I don't know much about them (whereas I've had plenty of beers that highlight cascade, simcoe, azacca, galaxy, mosaic, citra, etc).

Anyway, here's my basic recipe (for the Meridian version). Please feel free to chime in with any ideas/corrections:

Recipe Type: Extract
Yeast: Safale US-05
Yeast Starter: Nah
Batch Size (Gallons): 5 gal
Original Gravity: 1.048
Final Gravity: 1.007
IBU: 42
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 4-5
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 14 days at 65-68F

7 lbs. Extra Light LME (4-4.5 SRM)

1.50 oz Meridian [7.00 %] - Boil 60 min
0.50 oz Meridian [7.00 %] - Boil 15 min
0.50 oz Meridian [7.00 %] - Boil 10 min
0.50 oz Meridian [7.00 %] - Boil 1 min
1.00 oz Meridian [7.00 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Days

 

[TastyAdventure]

Looks good! I'd get rid of the 15 min addition and make it a 175 F hopstand

 

[deadwolfbones]

Looks good! I'd get rid of the 15 min addition and make it a 175 F hopstand

I've gotten advice elsewhere that I should do a more interesting grain bill since an all 2-row beer is going to be pretty boring. It was suggested I try something like pilsner LME with some maris otter and crystal 15 in a partial mash to give it a fuller flavor.

Since my purpose here is to get more familiar with hops, I think as long as the base grain bill remains the same, the principle applies—even if it's not a real SMaSH.

What say you?

 

[RM-MN]

I've gotten advice elsewhere that I should do a more interesting grain bill since an all 2-row beer is going to be pretty boring. It was suggested I try something like pilsner LME with some maris otter and crystal 15 in a partial mash to give it a fuller flavor.

Since my purpose here is to get more familiar with hops, I think as long as the base grain bill remains the same, the principle applies—even if it's not a real SMaSH.

What say you?

I think you beer can be just a good tasting with the extra light malt extract as with other grains as the highlight will be the hops. Don't let other's ideas change yours yet...except mine of course. I made a pale ail with pale malt and Maris Otter (English malted barley, not a lot different from pale malt) and hops. I love it.

Can you bring a specified volume of water to 160F and not go over that? If so, can you afford to buy a paint strainer bag (about $4 for a pair at Home Depot)? Do you have or can get a pot that is 8 gallons or larger and a burner that can bring 7 gallons of water to a boil. If you can meet all of these you are ready to do all grain and with that you really can do a SMASH if you want. BIAB makes all grain as simple as extract, just heat the water, put the bag in, stir in the grains and put the lid on. Depending on the milling you might need to wrap the pot with a sleeping bag to keep it warm until the mash has converted. It's about as hard as steeping the specialty grains.:rockin:

 

[Weezy]

You could go with some brown sugar, dark or light, or turbinado sugar, or molasses, or honey, at flame out for some easy added complexity. I do a lazy IPA once every couple months to get unhopped wort to feed bug cultures. It's 3 gallons, one can of Alexander's pale lme, 1/4 pound of sugar of some sort, depending on the hops I use. (I go only flameout hops so I can steal some unhopped wort before adding the sugar and hops.. It's actually a great simple beer!)

Just pick the type of sugar based on the hop. If it's a rough around the edges like Simcoe, go dark brown sugar. If it's a softer fruity or floral or noble go honey or turbinado. If it's woody/earthy, try some blackstrap molasses.

 

[deadwolfbones]

Can you bring a specified volume of water to 160F and not go over that? If so, can you afford to buy a paint strainer bag (about $4 for a pair at Home Depot)? Do you have or can get a pot that is 8 gallons or larger and a burner that can bring 7 gallons of water to a boil?

I mean, yes I could, but I can't really afford to buy more pots right now and unfortunately my main boil kettle is only 5 gal. I'll definitely keep it in mind for the future, though!

 

[GHBWNY]

I think this is called a "SHaME" brew: Single Hop and Malt Extract

 

[RM-MN]

I mean, yes I could, but I can't really afford to buy more pots right now and unfortunately my main boil kettle is only 5 gal. I'll definitely keep it in mind for the future, though!

I use my 5 gallon pot most of the time and do 2 1/2 gallon batches. I usually end doing a pour-through sparge. Just suspend the bag of grain with a colander and pour water over it. Cold water works about the same as hot.

 

[deadwolfbones]

I use my 5 gallon pot most of the time and do 2 1/2 gallon batches. I usually end doing a pour-through sparge. Just suspend the bag of grain with a colander and pour water over it. Cold water works about the same as hot.

What size fermentor do you use for that? I've only got 6.5gal buckets and glass carboys (and one 1gal glass carboy).

 

[deadwolfbones]

I think this is called a "SHaME" brew: Single Hop and Malt Extract

Ouch!

 

[RM-MN]

What size fermentor do you use for that? I've only got 6.5gal buckets and glass carboys (and one 1gal glass carboy).

I mostly use 6.5 gallon buckets but I have a couple 5 gallon buckets too. Either work fine for the smaller batches. Fermentation creates a huge amount of CO2.

 

[MaxStout]

What size fermentor do you use for that? I've only got 6.5gal buckets and glass carboys (and one 1gal glass carboy).

I do a lot of 2.5 gal stovetop BIAB batches in winter (when I don't want to brew standard batches outside in the Minnesota cold). A 3 gal carboy or Better Bottle works well for a fermenter.