Electric Question

[Ohio-Ed]

Went back thru this build again. WOW! I followed as it unfolded but I am even more impressed as I look back at it. The DIN rail mounted components really kept it very neat.
Top shelf!

Thank you.

A bunch of folks contributed and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Ed

 

[ScubaSteve]

Hey Ed-

Building my controller box now....you turned me onto the brushed stainless wall plates! I bought some at lowes for each 3W 30A 240 plug, but the receptacle won't fit. Where'd you get yours?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Hey Ed-

Building my controller box now....you turned me onto the brushed stainless wall plates! I bought some at lowes for each 3W 30A 240 plug, but the receptacle won't fit. Where'd you get yours?

They either came from HomeDepot or Lowes, not sure which.
So, it's just the 30a that are a problem?

BTW.. My receptacles are twistloc.


Ed

 

[ScubaSteve]

Yeah, just had one of those unforseen "oh crap" moments while building, the standard 3 wire dryer receptacle doesn't fit through the plate. Too big. Thanks for the feedback!

<....Quietly tiptoes out of the thread and gently shuts the door......>

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Yeah, just had one of those unforseen "oh crap" moments while building, the standard 3 wire dryer receptacle doesn't fit through the plate. Too big. Thanks for the feedback!

<....Quietly tiptoes out of the thread and gently shuts the door......>

I have to believe the SS covers can be found. I guess I was just lucky, I never would have thought of it being a problem to find them.

Good Luck.

Ed

 

[stevehaun]

Ed:
After using your system a while, are you still happy with the automation direct switches? It looks like you are using the plastic, LED illuminated ones.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ed:
After using your system a while, are you still happy with the automation direct switches? It looks like you are using the plastic, LED illuminated ones.

They are indeed plastic LED switches from AutomationDirect.

I've had zero issues with them.

Ed

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I just edited the first post in this thread and added links to the latest logical and wiring diagrams.

There might be minor adjustments, but this is the version I built the panel from.

 

[stevehaun]

Hey Moderators:
Can you make this a sticky?
Tons of great information and the build is done right.

 

[Rondacker]

Hey Moderators:
Can you make this a sticky?
Tons of great information and the build is done right.

And very well mannered, solid info.. too..Not the case in a lot of forums I've seen..
Kudos to all!:rockin:

 

[vballdrummer]

I've been studying the latest schematic and isn't there a concern with the dual fuse setup (@240V) if one fuse blows and the other leg remains hot? In the thirty pages or so, I must have missed the discussion.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I've been studying the latest schematic and isn't there a concern with the dual fuse setup (@240V) if one fuse blows and the other leg remains hot? In the thirty pages or so, I must have missed the discussion.

All the 240v breakers are double pole... meaning they cut both legs when tripped.

Ed

 

[vballdrummer]

What I expected for actual implementation ... ah I see the confusion, I was looking at the logic diagram which doesn't indicate the double pole as noted on the schematic.

 

[sco999]

Ohio-Ed,
What size wires are the blue, red, and purple wires that are sending signals between the ssr's and the switches/bcs?

Thanks

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ohio-Ed,
What size wires are the blue, red, and purple wires that are sending signals between the ssr's and the switches/bcs?

Thanks

The control voltage wire is 22 ga.

Ed

 

[HHP]

Ohio-Ed ... how did fasten the power cord to your box? It looks like a compression fitting of some sort?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ohio-Ed ... how did fasten the power cord to your box? It looks like a compression fitting of some sort?

It is a special type compression fitting...
It's a Liquid Tight "Cord Grip" from McMaster similar to this one:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8302K211/


Ed

 

[JohnnyGunn]

Ohio_Ed....quick question: what is the amperage of the SSR's you used?

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ohio_Ed....quick question: what is the amperage of the SSR's you used?

40 amp for the heating elements, 25 amp for the pumps.

25 amps is way overkill for the pumps. I originally found some used 5amp SSRs on ebay that I used for prototyping that worked fine. I liked the consistency in size & mounting of the 25's so I changed them out in the final build.

 

[JohnnyGunn]

40 amp for the heating elements, 25 amp for the pumps.

25 amps is way overkill for the pumps. I originally found some used 5amp SSRs on ebay that I used for prototyping that worked fine. I liked the consistency in size & mounting of the 25's so I changed them out in the final build.

Thanks Ed!

 

[jawbox]

Ed,

Couple of questions for you.

1) Looking at Automation Direct I see multiple curve breakers, Which Curve breakers are you using for the following on your diagram?
a) Fast acting (B, C, D)?
b) Delay (B, C, D)?

Single Pole
Double Pole

2) Is this the right switch for the 3 position?

3) Is this the right button for the Emergency stop?

4) Is this the right Push Button for the start?

I'll still be running gas for my boil kettle so things wil be a little different.

Awesome build.

Thanks,
Jaw

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ed,

Couple of questions for you.

1) Looking at Automation Direct I see multiple curve breakers, Which Curve breakers are you using for the following on your diagram?
a) Fast acting (B, C, D)?
b) Delay (B, C, D)?

Single Pole
Double Pole

2) Is this the right switch for the 3 position?

3) Is this the right button for the Emergency stop?

4) Is this the right Push Button for the start?

I'll still be running gas for my boil kettle so things wil be a little different.

Awesome build.

Thanks,
Jaw

Jaw,

The breakers I got are all C curve except the 30amp double pole which are B curve. The reason was not by choice... it was the only DIN mount breakers they had at the time I placed my order. I would have preferred to have B Curve for the smaller breaker that the BCS is on but the smallest B Curve they have is 6 amp. I haven't had any false trips or melted any components, but maybe I'm just lucky

I used a GCX1131 (metal) for the E-Stop, but the one you linked (Plastic) should work fine.

The other switches you linked are the same ones I used (I used both Yellow and Blue 3px switches).

Thanks for the complement.

Let me know if there is anything I can help with.

Ed

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

They are indeed plastic LED switches from AutomationDirect.

I've had zero issues with them.

Ed

Ed-
If you don't have a load connected the LEDs are on all the time... I know that this happens with SSR's, somehow I just forgot about it with the H-O-A switches. I have the 120V LED bulbs currently, do you happen to know if I swap out to incandescent if that will be enough of a load on the SSR output to not light the bulb? Figured maybe you could save me from ordering something that did not work ;-)

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ed-
If you don't have a load connected the LEDs are on all the time... I know that this happens with SSR's, somehow I just forgot about it with the H-O-A switches. I have the 120V LED bulbs currently, do you happen to know if I swap out to incandescent if that will be enough of a load on the SSR output to not light the bulb? Figured maybe you could save me from ordering something that did not work ;-)

As long as I have a load plugged in, the LED's do not illuminate. It has been handy to let me know when I forgot to plug the RIMs heater in
I don't know if incandescents would be enough of a load or not. I have mine wired to illuminate only when the control calls for heat so they end up flashing when the temp gets close. I'm not sure how long an incandescent would last the way I'm using them.

Ed

 

[jawbox]

Ed,

What Contactor did you use??

Thanks,
Jaw

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ed,

What Contactor did you use??

Thanks,
Jaw

I'm using the one from Auber.

 

[jawbox]

would this one work?

Looks like i would be real close to pulling 40A so a little nervous about the 40A form auber.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

would this one work?

Looks like i would be real close to pulling 40A so a little nervous about the 40A form auber.

Looks like that should work. The description on that site is pretty skimpy.
The 40amp Auber contactor is actually rated at 50 amp resistive load. The majority of the load from most of our rigs is resistive (the heating elements).

Ed

 

[clearwaterbrewer]

On their pic, looks like Locked Rotor Amps are 242, you will be fine with it for our very light duty home-brewing use... even at 40A+..

Picture what a contactor in a home AC unit goes through in the middle of summer, use and temperature wise... your contactor will probably not see as much use in it's lifetime as that one will in just one week...

 

[jawbox]

How are you attaching the bcs and contactor to the din rail?