Electric conversion

[Islandboy85]

Yes, do not build a male plug that has the potential to be hot....that's a cattle prod you do not want in your brewery!

Shame they don't make 50 amp range style 4 prong male receptacles for enclosures. If they do I have not found them yet. That's what I really wanted [emoji53]

 

[augiedoggy]

Shame they don't make 50 amp range style 4 prong male receptacles for enclosures. If they do I have not found them yet. That's what I really wanted [emoji53]

its a cost thing... they dont want people using those low cost range plugs when they can sell you a more expensive one thats designed for that application.. Same goes with the dryer cords and spa panels. These are all more reasonably priced than their less used counterparts. some things they cant price gouge on as much it seems due to the popularity bringing down production costs somehow.. also theres likely more competition for those more commonly sold configurations.

I just used a pigtail cord coming out of my 30a control panel with one of those range/dryer recepticals mounted on the wall nearby next to my spa panle for easy access to everything.

 

[Islandboy85]

I was going to use a range cord originally, but it's too short for my application. I want the control box under my porch in case it rains. The receptacle is about 18" off the ground, and 3' away from the porch. There's a brick pillar with not much clearance to work around, so by the time it would have all been hooked up inside the enclosure it would've been too short. That's why I bought the 15' extension cord. It was a lot cheaper than buying 6 gauge wire by itself.

 

[Islandboy85]

Augiedoggy, what did you use for your strain relief/cable gland? I'm looking at the Cooper TCI497. It's $36 on Amazon.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I'm looking at the Cooper TCI497. It's $36 on Amazon.

OMG $36, that better relieve a lot of strain for that kinda money lol...

 

[augiedoggy]

Augiedoggy, what did you use for your strain relief/cable gland? I'm looking at the Cooper TCI497. It's $36 on Amazon.

I found some plastic ones that were the correct size for the soo cable I used on ebay... it was couple years ago now but I want to say I got 2 for like $6 or 8... they where the compression style.
there may be a link in my build thread below I dont remember..

 

[wilserbrewer]

sorry doublepost :smack:

 

[augiedoggy]

I used one of these... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-NPT-Str...250032?hash=item3f2adfce30:g:Iw4AAOxydlFS5W9b

Lots of options though... too hard to sort efficiently on amazon..

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...C0.H0.Xgland+nut.TRS5&_nkw=gland+nut&_sacat=0

 

[Islandboy85]

OMG $36, that better relieve a lot of strain for that kinda money lol...

It's metal and also has a basket weave cable grip on it. It's not just a a gland. I've looked at using a plastic PG36 gland, but wasn't sure it would hold up well over time being plastic. I realize they're usually $5, not $36. $36 is still way cheaper than those stinking generator plugs [emoji36] stupid price gougers!!!

 

[bnhocking]

I know I am chiming in late here but went I brew i start out with almost 18 gallons of wort at the start of the boil and I use a 4500W element to heat it to boil. One thing to remember is that wile you are spaging into your boil kettle once your element is covered I turn it on and start heating to boil while the sparge is going one. A bit under powered here may not matter as much, by the time my sparge is complete my boil kettle is usually around 205 degrees F, not much further for a boil.

 

[kal]

I wasn't a total fan of the gap under the electrical box cover plate as described by The Electric Brewer, so I'm using a piece of scrap 304 1/4 hard as the back part of the element enclosure.View attachment 363692

Just curious what you don't like about the gap? (I'm assuming you're referring to my design... ).

Kal

 

[CraigH78]

An all electric setup was my project last spring. About 5 batches through it and couldn't be happier. There is a few things I'd change if I did it over but what a fun project. REALLY improved consistency from batch to batch! Now I just sit back and watch it go while drinking a HB.

Good luck with it and enjoy the process.

Feel free to laugh at my sight tube on the HLT, drilled the hole a little low.

 

[Islandboy85]

I know I am chiming in late here but went I brew i start out with almost 18 gallons of wort at the start of the boil and I use a 4500W element to heat it to boil. One thing to remember is that wile you are spaging into your boil kettle once your element is covered I turn it on and start heating to boil while the sparge is going one. A bit under powered here may not matter as much, by the time my sparge is complete my boil kettle is usually around 205 degrees F, not much further for a boil.

That was my game plan. Thanks for joint in.

 

[lschiavo]

Strain reliefs galore. I have used the aluminum and plastic ones. Both seemed well made.


http://www.elecdirect.com/cord-grips-strain-relief

 

[Islandboy85]

Strain reliefs galore. I have used the aluminum and plastic ones. Both seemed well made.


http://www.elecdirect.com/cord-grips-strain-relief

I found this one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JFEBYNS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I'll give it a go. If I have issues I can go spend the money on a strain relief metal one. This will get me up and running at least.

 

[BigFloppy]

I found this one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JFEBYNS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I'll give it a go. If I have issues I can go spend the money on a strain relief metal one. This will get me up and running at least.

Those are basically the same ones Bobby_M uses on his Hot Pod's, they work great

 

[Islandboy85]

Great! Sometimes I get carried away. I get so used how some of our ground support shipment is built. I just end up thinking it should be the same on the brewery. I doubt I'll abuse my brewery as much as the power carts or hydraulic mules I have at work though. [emoji482]

 

[Islandboy85]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1472932475.156428.jpgi think I've finally settled on my layout. This will leave room to add another PID for temp displays if I want to down the road. I'm still waiting on one switch in the mail. Yellow pilot lights will be for power to the elements, blue for pumps.

 

[lschiavo]

Where are the knight rider lights? I'm putting those on mine when I have some free time.

 

[Islandboy85]

Just curious what you don't like about the gap? (I'm assuming you're referring to my design... ).



Kal

Since I've got the foam type of weather seal it looked like it had a gap in two sides (not really sealing the box), so I added a filler plate between the two brackets in the box and the outer cover plate so that the foam weather seal is fully supported. I've gained a lot of knowledge from your design. I'm tweaking it here and there for my own crazy ideas. By the way, the element cover issue I'm having with your design may just be me being anal.

 

[Islandboy85]

Feel free to laugh at my sight tube on the HLT, drilled the hole a little low.

Mine was supposed to have polycarbonate tube in compression fittings when it was originally build years ago. The welder screwed them up, and had mine pointed into the keg, so I had to use silicone tube on barbs.

 

[Islandboy85]

So I may have an issue. I just realized the heat sink I bought from Amazon is only rated to 26 amps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899BEGI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[kal]

So I may have an issue. I just realized the heat sink I bought from Amazon is only rated to 26 amps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00899BEGI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Keep in mind that heat sinks don't really have a 'current' rating. What you're reading is simply the manufacturer trying to give you a rough idea on how it can be used. They probably assume better than average cooling conditions too.

The better the cooling the easier it is in the SSRs and the longer they will last. I believe you're using a 5500W and 3500W element and running both at the same time so up to 37.5 amps max draw.

How hot does it get after running both for 30-60 mins or so?

Kal

 

[Islandboy85]

How hot does it get after running both for 30-60 mins or so?



Kal

I'm still in the punching holes in the enclosure stage. I figured I'd stop in case I needed to get a different heat sink.

 

[Islandboy85]

Although many here recommend using a jigsaw for trimming their enclosures I am more comfortable with my tools I use every day. I personally cut much better with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1473207958.259475.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1473208012.975431.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1473208054.144981.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1473208065.681590.jpg

 

[Islandboy85]

I finished piloting the holes for the ten XLR jacks that will be used for different float switches and temp probes in the system. I'll use a CNC engraver to label each Jack location. I felt like it was easier to make one big legend plate than ten individual legend plates, AND get them all to be uniform.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1473315034.238600.jpg

 

[Islandboy85]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1473971178.881484.jpgGot the buttons and lights in last night. Pulled them back out so I can cut out the PIDs tonight. I'm used to aluminum... I can see why a water jet would be easier. Not sure what that would've cost, but would be money well spent for people that do not have a pile of sheet metal tools.

 

[Islandboy85]

I liked the idea of a safe start interlock relay as recommended by the electric brewery. I'm using a standard DPDT relay. I added a line of relay pin 1 to the alarm so that if my switches aren't in the right position (all off) when I depress the momentary start button I'll get an alarm tone while the button is held.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1474494230.917012.jpg

 

[lschiavo]

It looks like the alarm will ring without doing anything the way it's drawn. When you release the momentary start button, what holds the connection to the main contactor? I think you need a latching circuit here. It is also not standard practice to switch a neutral in control wiring.

 

[lschiavo]

I guess you are latching back through 4? The neutral switching is throwing me.