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Electric brewery plans - need help

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We milled out my enclosure today!

I didn't take any pictures of the process, but we had fun doing it. Took about 4 hours with plenty of BS-ing and taking our time.

I'll take some pictures of the milled box and post 'em up when I get a chance.

TB
 
We milled out my enclosure today!

I didn't take any pictures of the process, but we had fun doing it. Took about 4 hours with plenty of BS-ing and taking our time.

I'll take some pictures of the milled box and post 'em up when I get a chance.

TB

Can't wait!
 
This link will take you to an excellent wire gage chart: cerrowire.com
If you intend to use crimp on connectors, solder the crimped connection after crimping. This is important on the high current lines (heating element connections for example). Trust me on this one, it will save you a lot of grief down the road.

I've done some marine wiring and you can do either soldering or crimping but NEVER combine them. I thought is was a great combination as all marine wiring comes tinned, but in fact it will make the connection weaker. Don't ask me for the details at this moment but if have seen the guidelines from the connectors years ago.
 
I've done some marine wiring and you can do either soldering or crimping but NEVER combine them. I thought is was a great combination as all marine wiring comes tinned, but in fact it will make the connection weaker. Don't ask me for the details at this moment but if have seen the guidelines from the connectors years ago.
I don't mean to come across in a negative way, but you throw out a bit of info and then say don't ask.
The issue you are talking about is "Marine Wiring", i.e. a salt water environment where the wires are stranded and tinned.

I'll still do it my way (non marine application) knowing that the connections I make are secure and electrically sound.
 
P-J, Not negative at all. I done the wiring 15 years ago. The things I remember are the mechanical strength and corrosion. After soldering the strands are not flexible anymore creating a weak spot and the heating changes the insulation attracting moisture. Probably in most applications this is not a problem, just wanted to make people aware that crimping, using a good crimper, makes a very good connection not requiring soldering.
 
I took some pictures last night of the enclosure and me using my knockout punch.

It's my wife and I's anniversary, so we're going out of town this weekend (like now-ish). I don't have time to post the images now, but will when I get back, I promise!

Prost,
TibertornbetweenmytwolovesBrew
 
Tiber,
This looks like a ton of work and I want to thank you for documenting everything especially the wiring. I do have a couple of questions if you or anyone on the site that has time.

1. I cant find the link to the EPO details. I'm either blind or have lost my mind because I remember looking at a picture of how to wire it complete with the part numbers but cant find it anywhere. Any chance you could include that info in your thread or point me to it if I really have lost my mind?


2. I just ordered the BCS controller for my new system... I assume I could eliminate switches 3-6 and obviously the PID unless i really wanted a physical button to turn them on and off with correct/opinions?

3. Could you tell me what DIN mounting solution you picked. I'm a little confused on this concept ( of at least the parts to build) but like the idea of a clean,easy to wire box.

Thanks again for the great information.

I'll post pics and parts list as mine comes together also.
 
Obviously not Walker.
I'd suggest that you run your sensor wiring through braid that is grounded within your enclosure to shield it from any power induction. Just be sure to green wire ground it on one end only to form a proper shield.
The braid is something like this:

CONSOLIDATED1321.jpg


You could carefully strip some coax cable to secure a decent length of braid to do the job.
 
I think I might do a combination of those panel mounts from Auber like sweetsounds, and a braided shield like P-J suggested.

My current RTD sensors have those same disconnects, but it's right at the probe. Something further up the wire for the panel would be nice too.

I don't necessarily need anything to disconnect at the panel (it would actually be on the side) since I already have a disconnect at the probe. I just want something to keep the wire from getting cut and/or tugging on the PID and causing problems.

Thanks guys.
 
As promised, here are some pictures of my progress.

Here is the milled front panel. The round holes are 10mm holes for the knockout punch.
DSC00001.jpg


Here are the openings and screw holes for the 30amp outlets:
DSC00003.jpg


...and for the 120V outlets:
DSC00007.jpg


Here's the punch in place:
DSC00011.jpg


Using the punch:
DSC00017.jpg


That punch worked very well. I was surprised at how easy it was to use.
DSC00013.jpg


More to come...
 
Test fitting all the mounted components now. Everything fits well. I had to file off the radii from the mill for the PIDs to fit properly. It likes a nice square corner.

Some shots:
DSC00031.jpg


DSC00030.jpg


DSC00034.jpg


DSC00038.jpg


The 120V outlet openings worked out pretty nicely:
DSC00045.jpg


Proposed inside layout of the rest of the components:
DSC00040.jpg


Next up:
1. Figure out how to route the RTD wires out of the box
2. Sand and paint the enclosure
3. Wire the enclosure
4. Get started on the stand and hacking up my purdy kegs

Hope you all like it,
TB
 
i have the exact same box as you. pretty much identical. i just got mine all wired up and water tested last night for leaks. what i did was install those omega panel mounts from auber. i used tc's instead of rtd's tho. I mounted the omega's right above the 240 outlets.
 
i have the exact same box as you. pretty much identical. i just got mine all wired up and water tested last night for leaks. what i did was install those omega panel mounts from auber. i used tc's instead of rtd's tho. I mounted the omega's right above the 240 outlets.

Wait, you "water tested" your box "for leaks"?

Do you have any pictures of your box? What's your setup?

I ended up buying a couple of those panel mount RTD connectors, and I was going to mount mine above the 240V outlets.

TB
 
i mean i was testing the box to make sure everything works. i was water testing the pots to check for leaks. i built the same thing that you are building.
http://yfrog.com/3d0821001437aj
http://yfrog.com/n90821001437j
http://yfrog.com/my0821001438j
http://yfrog.com/6z0821001435aj
http://yfrog.com/mr0821001435j
http://yfrog.com/j00821001434aj
http://yfrog.com/9d0821001434j

sorry for the links. didn't have another way to get them to you without email.
rian

Wow, that is really similar to my plan. Did you follow this thread for that, or is this just coincidence? Nice wiring job, by the way.


TB
 
Thanks, bro! How's the brew space coming along?

Sadly I'm no further along than 2 weeks ago. After returning from the U.P. we put a new roof on the house and now have 9 days until leaving for Europe. My goal is to have the brewery walls done and the HLT operational before November and the full brewery done by 2011.
 
sick sick sick!!!!

Do you think you could pull that off with a 12x12x8 electrical enclosure??

Thanks!
 
sick sick sick!!!!

Do you think you could pull that off with a 12x12x8 electrical enclosure??

Thanks!

I think that's possible. If you don't have 4 SSRs in it, and you use DIN mount components, you shouldn't have a problem with that. Mine is 10" deep, so yours would only be a couple inches shy of that, which I don't think would cause any problems. I've got plenty of real estate on the front panel, too, so I'm sure you could consolidate your switches with a little more care for surface area than I did.

I gotta say, though, it's nice working with all this room. :D

TB
 
I think that's possible. If you don't have 4 SSRs in it, and you use DIN mount components, you shouldn't have a problem with that. Mine is 10" deep, so yours would only be a couple inches shy of that, which I don't think would cause any problems. I've got plenty of real estate on the front panel, too, so I'm sure you could consolidate your switches with a little more care for surface area than I did.

I gotta say, though, it's nice working with all this room. :D

TB

Thanks!

Thing is that I've been looking around for one heck of a time and the best deal I found (by far!!) was this 12x12x8 electrical enclosure for 59$...and thats without mention of 45$ shipping charges...

So very expensive for a metal box...
 
i was water testing the pots. i used the diagram that p-j made for you on this thread. works wonderful!! it took no time. 4 ssrs would fit no problem.

gabrew you check out ebay? i got my box from weaver electric. it was 20 i think with 20 shipping. if you do ask for a backplate. made installing a breeze.
 
i was water testing the pots. i used the diagram that p-j made for you on this thread. works wonderful!! it took no time. 4 ssrs would fit no problem.

gabrew you check out ebay? i got my box from weaver electric. it was 20 i think with 20 shipping. if you do ask for a backplate. made installing a breeze.

Can't seem to find the seller...would you mind sending me a link?

Thanks
 
yup the kettles. i wanted to test the pumps and elements. so i was recircing water. so i figured i would kill 2 birds with 1 stone. turn 1 pump on. check all the connections. then go to the next step. worked really well. start with the herms coil if you do. did you get a backplate with you enclosure?
 
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