Electric brewery plans - need help
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Yes!
As others have said - Yes it is. When you do it, I suggest that you do not straighten the copper first and then recoil it. Just wrap it around your form as a coil and reform it. If you straighten it first you will harden the copper and make it a lot more difficult to handle.
SpaceCoastBrew
Well-Known Member
If you are still inclined to use stainless, it was recommended in other threads to just cannibalize the chiller from Midwest (http://www.midwestsupplies.com/stai...ort-chiller-w-garden-hose-fittings-50-ft.html). I ignored this suggestion and recoiled my stainless tube around my 6 gal ale pail. It came out pretty good but was a pain and took about an hour. If I were to do it again I would go the Midwest route.
OP
OP
Thanks for the suggestions, guys!
I'm going to try finishing up my SS coil, but if I can't get the kinks out, or it tears, then I'll just go with copper.
I like the idea of bastardizing the Midwest IC SS coil, but that's $99. Anyone know what diameter the Midwest coil is? I already wasted $70 + shipping on the SS coil... Maybe it's time to cut losses....?
I'll keep you posted on how my HERMS coil adventures go!
TB
I'm going to try finishing up my SS coil, but if I can't get the kinks out, or it tears, then I'll just go with copper.
I like the idea of bastardizing the Midwest IC SS coil, but that's $99. Anyone know what diameter the Midwest coil is? I already wasted $70 + shipping on the SS coil... Maybe it's time to cut losses....?
I'll keep you posted on how my HERMS coil adventures go!
TB
SpaceCoastBrew
Well-Known Member
Under additional information at the bottom of the description they say it's 10" in diameter.
OP
OP
That looks very good, Gabrew!
thanks mate!
I took the opposite path...started with the keggles and now Im trying to figure out the electronics...
hows the build comming along, got everything down in terms of keggle fittings and whatnots?
I took the opposite path...started with the keggles and now Im trying to figure out the electronics...
hows the build comming along, got everything down in terms of keggle fittings and whatnots?
OP
OP
Seems we're working in opposite directions 
I have all the supplies, fittings, etc, except for HERMS coil. I think I'm going to go with a 40-ish foot 1/2" copper coil after I f*cked up my $70 SS coil...
There is not one place in town to get a 50' coil of 1/2" Cu coil... Guess I'll have to wait on shipping unless I get from McMaster-Carr of course. Then I could have it by Tuesday.
I'm taking my kegs to my buddy's machine shop tomorrow to get them cut/drilled/welded etc.
Will post updates with pics when things progress.
TB
I have all the supplies, fittings, etc, except for HERMS coil. I think I'm going to go with a 40-ish foot 1/2" copper coil after I f*cked up my $70 SS coil...
There is not one place in town to get a 50' coil of 1/2" Cu coil... Guess I'll have to wait on shipping unless I get from McMaster-Carr of course. Then I could have it by Tuesday.
I'm taking my kegs to my buddy's machine shop tomorrow to get them cut/drilled/welded etc.
Will post updates with pics when things progress.
TB
nice!
as for the length of your copper tubing, I would suggest 25ft. I had planned on putting together two 25ft tubings (as you can see in the first pic) but it came to pretty much the height of the keg itself. 25ft fits perfectly. leaves room for the element and is about 2-3 inches from the brim....
as for the length of your copper tubing, I would suggest 25ft. I had planned on putting together two 25ft tubings (as you can see in the first pic) but it came to pretty much the height of the keg itself. 25ft fits perfectly. leaves room for the element and is about 2-3 inches from the brim....
OP
OP
Good to know! Thanks.
TB
TB
OP
OP
I got my kegs converted today after work! Tops cut off, holes drilled, bungs welded...
I have a couple pics from my phone that I'll post later. I'm too damn hungry, sober, and tired, so I'm going to take care of myself in that order.
TB
I have a couple pics from my phone that I'll post later. I'm too damn hungry, sober, and tired, so I'm going to take care of myself in that order.
TB
OP
OP
I just want to say that Bargain Fittings is an awesome place to get your stainless fittings. He let me modify my order after I placed it, sent me a new payment request, and it still arrived very quickly. Quality products for a reasonable price with good service. And no, I'm not being paid to say that.
TB
TB
+++++ 1!
devilbrewer75
Well-Known Member
I agree I've ordered from them twice and perfect service.
OP
OP
I spent hours yesterday grinding, sanding, and cleaning my keggles. I'm hoping to do some leak tests tonight. I'll post pics when I can get to my computer (I'm posting via my phone right now).
TB
TB
OP
OP
Sorry for the wait, folks, but I've been busy.
Here's what I've been up to:
The kegs after cutting with a plasma torch and welding some fittings:
Looks like a mess from the plasma torch:
Cleaning the kegs up with my angle grinder:
Then sand the top and and all the holes, after deburring with a file:
Then I cleaned all the kegs with Bar Keepers Friend. That stuff is practically free and cleans stainless like nothing else I've used. Make sure to wear gloves and goggles, though.
To attach the elements, I borrowed some ideas from Kal, but I did some things different. My kettle has the NPS locknut welded to the side (picture in next post). At first, I tried the method shown below, but that had a very slow leak. Slow, but unacceptable. For those of you who don't read the text and just look at pictures, I put some text on the picture to forewarn you. What did work was somewhat like that picture, but put a few wraps of Teflon tape on the threads, and use the black gasket included with the elements in place of the red o-ring. No silicone or epoxy needed. Tight as a frog's a$$. Do not over tighten.
Here's the HLT (sans HERMS coil), after leak testing:
[continued on next post]
Here's what I've been up to:
The kegs after cutting with a plasma torch and welding some fittings:
Looks like a mess from the plasma torch:
Cleaning the kegs up with my angle grinder:
Then sand the top and and all the holes, after deburring with a file:
Then I cleaned all the kegs with Bar Keepers Friend. That stuff is practically free and cleans stainless like nothing else I've used. Make sure to wear gloves and goggles, though.
To attach the elements, I borrowed some ideas from Kal, but I did some things different. My kettle has the NPS locknut welded to the side (picture in next post). At first, I tried the method shown below, but that had a very slow leak. Slow, but unacceptable. For those of you who don't read the text and just look at pictures, I put some text on the picture to forewarn you. What did work was somewhat like that picture, but put a few wraps of Teflon tape on the threads, and use the black gasket included with the elements in place of the red o-ring. No silicone or epoxy needed. Tight as a frog's a$$. Do not over tighten.
Here's the HLT (sans HERMS coil), after leak testing:
[continued on next post]
OP
OP
My kegs might be tight, but I sprung a few leaks. Luckily I had the materials handy for makeshift band-aids:
...and another:
...and another:
Moving on...
Here's the welded NPS locknut on the keggle (there's identical ones on the HLT and BK):
...and the welded 1/4" NPT half coupler, again identical on the HLT and BK:
Apply Teflon tape to weldless fittings and secure tightly:
Showing the wiring for the elements:
[continued on next page]
...and another:
...and another:
Moving on...
Here's the welded NPS locknut on the keggle (there's identical ones on the HLT and BK):
...and the welded 1/4" NPT half coupler, again identical on the HLT and BK:
Apply Teflon tape to weldless fittings and secure tightly:
Showing the wiring for the elements:
[continued on next page]
OP
OP
Here I am, for the first time, heating water in my new boil kettle with electricity. Not sure if you can tell by the picture:
...and we've got a boil!
Got my false bottom in from Jay (Jaybird on HBT). Here's the top:
...and the bottom. Excellent craftsmanship:
Here I'm running auto tune function on both the PIDs. Yes, I'm missing some fittings, and yes, I'm going to trim the control panel power cord, powder coat the frame, fabricate a water shield for the pumps....I'm not done yet, but I can almost taste the nectar of the gods...
Cheers,
TibertherearenowordsforthisBrew
...and we've got a boil!
Got my false bottom in from Jay (Jaybird on HBT). Here's the top:
...and the bottom. Excellent craftsmanship:
Here I'm running auto tune function on both the PIDs. Yes, I'm missing some fittings, and yes, I'm going to trim the control panel power cord, powder coat the frame, fabricate a water shield for the pumps....I'm not done yet, but I can almost taste the nectar of the gods...
Cheers,
TibertherearenowordsforthisBrew
OP
OP
Just for fun, here's a video I took during the auto tune. Sorry if the quality sucks; I've never used photobucket to host a video before.
There really isn't much to see here, so you wouldn't be missing out on much if you didn't watch this vid.
[edit: vid removed]
Prost,
TB
EDIT: vid quality sucks from photobucket. Not even worth posting. Removed for your sake.
There really isn't much to see here, so you wouldn't be missing out on much if you didn't watch this vid.
[edit: vid removed]
Prost,
TB
EDIT: vid quality sucks from photobucket. Not even worth posting. Removed for your sake.
devilbrewer75
Well-Known Member
Nice Tiber, I've been doing my build one step behind yours just so I can follow along and it's been a great help. Thank you.
I hope I'm wrong - However I need to ask - Is your electrical box made of plastic? If so you need to add an equipment ground point so that it is bonded to the kettle. Right now it appears to not exist.Showing the wiring for the elements:
If the box is cast Aluminum, I'll just go away.
Your whole build process is awesome.
OP
OP
OP
OP
That's great! Do you have any pictures in your gallery or somewhere where we can see your setup?
TB
klyph
Well-Known Member
Great looking setup, any thought to how you'll vent the boil steam?
OP
OP
Yep, and I'll post pictures when I set it up. It's nothing complicated, but should work.
More updates soon...
TB
devilbrewer75
Well-Known Member
I'll try to get some up this weekend. Planning on taking pics during assembly.
OP
OP
You bet!
Did some finishing work on the plumbing this weekend.
Apply Teflon tape to the threads on the pump heads:
This is a 3/8" compression x 1/2 NPT adapter for the chiller. There's a similar one on both ends of the chiller. This will be used to adapt a thermometer and quick disconnect:
It looks a bit better than this now, but you get the idea:
This is the 90 deg street elbow that connects the hose to the female QD. I ground off the threads a bit with my angle grinder and had no problem getting the hose on it. Same with the female QD where I didn't use the elbow (didn't even grind the threads on the QD):
Wrapped my copper 1/2" tubing around a corny keg, and prepped it for the HLT:
Prepared the fittings for soldering onto the HERMS coil:
After soldering:
Then secure them into the compression fittings in the HLT:
[continued on next post]
OP
OP
And now we have a HERMS coil:
Testing the pumps at 50% open valve:
And fully open:
Shots of my brewery so far:
Still need to:
Cheers,
TB
Testing the pumps at 50% open valve:
And fully open:
Shots of my brewery so far:
Still need to:
- powder coat the frame
- make a splash shield for the pumps
- install my leveling feet to the stand legs
- brew
Cheers,
TB
OP
OP
Yeah, strange how that happens, eh?
Forgot a shot of my MLT:
Forgot a shot of my MLT:
Tiber_Brew,
I just want to say that I'm standing in awe with your build. The whole project and documentation is just plainly magnificent!
I also really appreciate your jumping in on Gabrew's build about the E-stop. Good Job!
Thanks.
I just want to say that I'm standing in awe with your build. The whole project and documentation is just plainly magnificent!
I also really appreciate your jumping in on Gabrew's build about the E-stop. Good Job!
Thanks.
OP
OP
For now, I'm going to just coil the return silicone hose in the MLT above the grain bed. That is, until I find a sparge system (or design) that I'm satisfied with. I've been toying with a few designs of my own on scratch paper, and doing some heavy research, but we'll see how the straight up tube in the tun goes for the first few batches...
Thanks, P-J! I appreciate the comments.
I also figure it's only right to pay it forward. Anything I can offer to others to keep this awesome brewing community going forward!
TB
OP
OP
I cut my power supply cord down to an appropriate length. Now don't have to wrap 8 ft of 50 amp cord around my control panel to plug it in. I'm hoping to do my rig's maiden brew this weekend. Wish me luck.
Any thoughts on a beer to break this thing's virginity?
TB
Any thoughts on a beer to break this thing's virginity?
TB
OP
OP
That's my current dilemma. I'd like to incorporate both aspects if I can. Perhaps I'll make a simple red ale & call it something like "Sparky's Virgin Red Ale" to allude to my first all electric brew.
I'll certainly report back with details whatever I choose to do.
Thanks,
TB
I'll certainly report back with details whatever I choose to do.
Thanks,
TB
SweetSounds
Well-Known Member
Honestly, you might want to make something simple and quick - So when the new system starts to get to know you and how you brew you can be ready for her
OP
OP
Very true, Sweetsounds. There's going to be a grace period where we get to know each other. Maybe I'll do a SMaSH, like a Pils. Thanks.
TB
TB
