Electric brewery plans - need help

[Tiber_Brew]

Thanks PJ...this looks great!

Tiber, what are those style of switches called? Thanks.

I'm using illuminated selector switches such as this one.

 

[Tiber_Brew]

For wiring the enclosure, what wire will I need and how much of it? Does anyone have a good way to estimate that?

I'm going to Lowe's this weekend and will hopefully pick up some much needed parts for my project while I'm there.

Keep in mind the nearest Lowe's is 100 miles away. This is a big deal for me -like a kid in a playground!

Thanks,
TB

 

[P-J]

For wiring the enclosure, what wire will I need and how much of it? Does anyone have a good way to estimate that?

I'm going to Lowe's this weekend and will hopefully pick up some much needed parts for my project while I'm there.

Keep in mind the nearest Lowe's is 100 miles away. This is a big deal for me -like a kid in a playground!

This link will take you to an excellent wire gage chart: cerrowire.com

For the circuits before the breakers the wire needs to be rated for 50 amps (the value of your mains breaker). You can use #8 THW/THWN or you can just use some of the wire (a foot or two) from your power cord.

The wiring after your breakers should be sized for the breaker value. #14 wire for the 15 amp breakers, # 10 for the 25 amp breakers.

I think you would only need 3 or 4 feet of each type and color. I suggest that you use stranded wire instead of solid copper as it is more flexible. Another thought for you. If you intend to use crimp on connectors, solder the crimped connection after crimping. This is important on the high current lines (heating element connections for example). Trust me on this one, it will save you a lot of grief down the road.

Hope this helps.

 

[Tiber_Brew]

This link will take you to an excellent wire gage chart: cerrowire.com

For the circuits before the breakers the wire needs to be rated for 50 amps (the value of your mains breaker). You can use #8 THW/THWN or you can just use some of the wire (a foot or two) from your power cord.

The wiring after your breakers should be sized for the breaker value. #14 wire for the 15 amp breakers, # 10 for the 25 amp breakers.

I think you would only need 3 or 4 feet of each type and color. I suggest that you use stranded wire instead of solid copper as it is more flexible. Another thought for you. If you intend to use crimp on connectors, solder the crimped connection after crimping. This is important on the high current lines (heating element connections for example). Trust me on this one, it will save you a lot of grief down the road.

Hope this helps.

Thanks P-J.

I picked up the wire this weekend, among some other materials. Man, I wish we had a Lowe's or Home Depot in my town.

More updates soon...

TB

 

[Gabrew]

any updates?

 

[P-J]

any updates?

Yes.! I wish I lived closer to you. The wiring would be completed now.

 

[corvus]

Another thought for you. If you intend to use crimp on connectors, solder the crimped connection after crimping. This is important on the high current lines (heating element connections for example). Trust me on this one, it will save you a lot of grief down the road.

I'm following this thread with some interest as it's very similar to my brewery. I'm curious how one solders crimps once they're crimped? I can see how it would make things more secure, but I don't know how I'd go about it since there is a plastic cover in the way (often mangled).

 

[SweetSounds]

I will either buy the crimp connectors without the plastic covers, or you can generally just pull the plastic cover off before you crimp them on the wire.

Then I'll slide a 1/2" or so piece of heat shrink tubing on the wire and crimp the connector. Solder the crimp, and shrink the tubing. You wind up with a pretty indestructible connection.

 

[Tiber_Brew]

any updates?

Yes.! I wish I lived closer to you. The wiring would be completed now.

My apologies, guys. Things are going a bit slow lately since I just bought and moved into a new house. I just got back from a week long hiking trip at Isle Royale National Park, too.

I'm anxious to get back to this project, so I will be giving P-J another call soon and taking more pictures as I go.

I will also post the promised parts list with prices too.

TiberblistersonmyanklesBrew

 

[tedpeer]

Isle Royale? You're forgiven.

 

[P-J]

... I'm anxious to get back to this project, so I will be giving P-J another call soon and taking more pictures as I go.

I'd really like to talk with you on your progress. I think you are going to have an awesome system.

Thanks for the update.

 

[kladue]

If you are moving towards a touch screen application on a pc let me know and maybe we could convert the Java and SQL app I have to C#. It handles the brewing side from recipe build to fermentation temperature control, hardware from sensor setup through PID loop tuning and alarms, data storage from ingredient tables to process data logging and graphing. I have had a lot of time on my hands and have spent it incorporating all the bells and whistles I can think of in a single package, the bummer is it is in Java, it might run on any platform but it is nearly impossible to reign in the number of classes and memory use like other programming languages. After looking for and trying most all of the tricks I can find it runs in about 30 meg stack and overhead, and 30 additional meg of native code that I can not seem to control.

 

[Tiber_Brew]

Isle Royale? You're forgiven.

Thanks; I knew someone would understand.

TB

 

[Tiber_Brew]

I'd really like to talk with you on your progress. I think you are going to have an awesome system.

Thanks for the update.

Thanks, Paul. I'm looking forward to getting the project back on track.

Talk to you soon,
TB

 

[Tiber_Brew]

I ordered a few goodies recently. Will post pics when they come. I've got two pumps, 1/2" fittings, and some dip tubes coming.

I'm thinking about picking up those camlock QD's too.

I dropped the ball these past couple days on contacting Paul about a slight modification in the wiring. Once we get squared away on that, I should be moving forward on the control panel on top of getting the rig itself setup.

More to come, I promise!
TB

 

[P-J]

Hey,
I'm still up waiting on your call.

Lets talk.

(I see you are still on line)

 

[P-J]

Ok. After talking things out, a couple of modifications have been implemented to the wiring plan.
It's now using 4500W elements and a EPO kill switch (N.O. momentary contact push button switch) has been incorporated.



(click on the image for a full size diagram)

 

[Tiber_Brew]

I'm waiting for a few components in the mail, then I'll draft a hole pattern for the enclosure in CAD and have it machined. Check the fit with the components, then get it painted and labeled, and then start wiring.

Lots of goodies came to my door today, but apparently they couldn't leave it at my door. So now I have to go pick it up from the post office. Seriously, WTF do we pay shipping for if I have to go pick it up?

Updates w/ pictures coming...

 

[Layne]

Holy Cow, this is EXACTLY what I need!
Only difference is I will run a 2000w RIMS in my MT. I assume thats not difficult to add?

What an awesome thread. Thanks for sharing your time and knowlage guys.
I'm a firm believer in the 'Pay it forward' theme. But, I'm workin from a pretty big deficit on here. Not used to takin more from the table than I bring.

 

[Tiber_Brew]

Holy Cow, this is EXACTLY what I need!
Only difference is I will run a 2000w RIMS in my MT. I assume thats not difficult to add?

What an awesome thread. Thanks for sharing your time and knowlage guys.
I'm a firm believer in the 'Pay it forward' theme. But, I'm workin from a pretty big deficit on here. Not used to takin more from the table than I bring.

Hey, good, I'm glad you can benefit from this thread too. You should start a thread for your system build cause I'd really like to see it. Good luck

 

[Layne]

Will do!

 

[Tiber_Brew]

Got some more goodies.

I'll edit the OP to incorporate the parts and cost.

1/2" stainless fittings and valves, sight glasses, and a couple pumps. Oh, and two NPS nuts for the elements.

Elements are on the way.

TiberneedsabrewstandBrew

 

[Gabrew]

lookin good lookin good

 

[Layne]

Ok, how does the PID get the actual temp reading. Am I missing something?

 

[P-J]

When you wire your elements you might consider this method:

It's simply a 'gem' box soldered to the keg with a green wire ground soldered in place as well.

The cover plate has a flush mount plug installed in it. This way you can disconnect the power cord from the kettle for cleanup.

The line just to the right of the power box is the temp probe held within a thermal well.

 

[P-J]

Ok, how does the PID get the actual temp reading. Am I missing something?

The PIDs use temperature sensors that are places in the kettles. The sensors can be mounted differently depending on your choices. In the systems that I've built, I use thermal wells.

 

[Layne]

My 'RIMS in a toolbox' is set up that way, but I did not see it in the schematic in this thread.
Or did I overlook something? Electronics is not my strong suit.

 

[P-J]

My 'RIMS in a toolbox' is set up that way, but I did not see it in the schematic in this thread.
Or did I overlook something? Electronics is not my strong suit.

The PID temp probe info is illustrated on the PID diagram:

Your install is really dependent on you probe type and on the mounting method for it.

I hope this helps you.

 

[Tiber_Brew]

Parts list updated in OP

 

[Tiber_Brew]

My enclosure is ready to be milled for the hole layout now!

A friend of mine runs a machine shop locally. He's going to help me mill out the holes and cutouts. I made a detail drawing in Unigraphics NX 4.0 since I had access to that anyway.

Once done, I'll sand/paint it, then get started wiring it.

Also picked up another Sanke keg in good condition today. Things are moving along...