Thanks much for your reply. If I'm reading it right, the sampling cycle of the tm7100rac85dc260v PID is 4 times a second, compared to the STC-1000 of 1 time a minute. That seems like quite a delay for sampling. My understanding is that a PID is more accurate and responsive, which perhaps doesn't make much of a difference for just a few degrees - unless it would cause the controller to work more than it should, more on/off cycles, more heat, more watts, shorter life (hassle of changing) etc. I like the lower price of the STC-1000. Could you elaborate on the differences?For a ferm cabinet, keezer, etc., the simple on/off of the STC-1000 is just as good as a PID. For other applications like controlling a RIMS or HERMS, the PID offers some advantages.
It turns out my chest box is 1.5 amps, so it probably wouldn't even turn on a solid state relay.
Thanks much for your reply. If I'm reading it right, the sampling cycle of the tm7100rac85dc260v PID is 4 times a second, compared to the STC-1000 of 1 time a minute. That seems like quite a delay for sampling. My understanding is that a PID is more accurate and responsive, which perhaps doesn't make much of a difference for just a few degrees - unless it would cause the controller to work more than it should, more on/off cycles, more heat, more watts, shorter life (hassle of changing) etc. I like the lower price of the STC-1000. Could you elaborate on the differences?
For those mounting, what size nut do you use on the back of the wall jack? It's the only thing stopping my cooling-only build of the STC-1000.
For those mounting, what size nut do you use on the back of the wall jack? It's the only thing stopping my cooling-only build of the STC-1000.
If you are looking for the size of the machine screws on either end of the outlet
i believe they are #6 / 32
14AWG, on the other hand, I would say is a must.
And with regards to both the use of 14AWG and a fuse, I should add that you just NEVER know what some idiot might randomly decide to plug into the box. It probably won't happen, but since it's even possible, they are smart steps to take. And if for some reason you need to use smaller gauge wire, a fuse absolutely becomes a MUST in order to make sure the wire isn't overloaded.
f0xtr0t said:I just don't understand the mindset of completly overbuilding something. I am using 16GA wire with no problems. The Extension cord a salvaged the wire from is rated @ 13 amps ..and thats at 25'. I mean the minimum safety reqs are there for a reason. You don't think they pad the number a little bit to account for someone over loading?
Recommended:
Refrigerator - 110 - 120 volt, 60 hertz, properly grounded circuit protected by a 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse. #14 gauge house wire minimum, #12 is preferred. A separate (dedicated ) circuit serving this appliance is recommended
Although electrical wiring is designed to carry current at much higher than its rated capacity, increasing current above this rated capacity causes the wire to generate excess heat. This is not a problem as long as the heat can be dissipated from the wire. However, if the wire is enclosed within a small insulated space the heat in these areas may not be able to dissipate as quickly as it is being generated
Giving someone bad information when dealing with electricity could ruin someone's life or worst. Not everyone here works as an electrician.
f0xtr0t said:Alas, I am trying to wire up one for a friend and I'm having some problems. I can't get the switched outlet to work. I waited for the delay and I can hear the relay kick on but I get no voltage when I test at the back of the controller. Here is my wiring diagram.
Also I have no idea what the loading is for. This isn't the STC-1000 this is the Fahrenheit model. http://www.ebay.com/itm/160740995557?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3944wt_1396 (Also I understand its AC current but the red/black is just for effect)
f0xtr0t said:Ok but recommended by who? The 16/3 wire I have is rated at 13 amps. Whats the max amps the freezer pulls 6? and 1.5 when its running. Plus that is rated at 25' not the 10' you will probably cut it at. What I am saying is 16 ga wire is within specs to run the equipment there is no need to waste money and buy a larger gauge cord just because your scared of burning your house down. If the cord is rated at a spec it is perfectly safe to use it within the specified uses of the wire.
I made the comment about the wire being over rated by the manufacturer because that is essentially what your suggesting to do. The wire is already over speced by the manufacturer to protect them and you are suggesting to go further. Which to me is pointless and a waste of money. ...Although If it helps you sleep at night. I guess you can buy peace of mind.
I disagree, they have the safety regulations for a reason. Electricity is dangerous! The wire generate heat as more power flows though them. More amps more heat, smaller wire will cause Tito heat too fast. All that heat soon burns your house down. I use the 14 gauge wire, with a fuse. Which prevents me from ever getting close to overloading.
Recommended:
Refrigerator - 110 - 120 volt, 60 hertz, properly grounded circuit protected by a 15 amp circuit breaker or fuse. #14 gauge house wire minimum, #12 is preferred. A separate (dedicated ) circuit serving this appliance is recommended
Although electrical wiring is designed to carry current at much higher than its rated capacity, increasing current above this rated capacity causes the wire to generate excess heat. This is not a problem as long as the heat can be dissipated from the wire. However, if the wire is enclosed within a small insulated space the heat in these areas may not be able to dissipate as quickly as it is being generated
Giving someone bad information when dealing with electricity could ruin someone's life or worst. Not everyone here works as an electrician.
f0xtr0t said:They make in-line fuses at radio shack. You just put it inline in-between the wall the stc-1000.
And the point I was making is 16/3 is rated at 13 amps. My keezer is 5 amps at startup and 1.5 while running. Which is well within spec for the cable. So check your freezer and determine the correct cable size for your particular application.
drocu said:Yup, I completely agree. I'm a cheap skate but even I opted for the 14 gauge wire. I'd rather be safe than sorry especially when it concerns electrical projects and the potential for fire.
kennywd, since I'm certainly no electrician, how could I go about wiring a fuse into this setup? I copied everything in the original post and have the STC-1000 model.
I thought I'd share a bit of info. I will admit I didn't read all 254 pages of this thread but I've done searches for this and didn't come up with anything on this board.
I was looking to create an additional probe for my STC-1000. Not originally understanding the difference between K-Type and NTC probes I wrongly assumed I could get a SS K-Type probe and cut the wires and connect it. This failed miserably so I looked around these boards and others to figure out how the probe worked and if I could find a replacement.
To summarize my findings the probe is a NTC thermistor. To replace a NTC thermistor you have to know its Resistance at 25C and its Beta curve. According to a thread on TheHomeBrewForum.co.uk Thread link the probe is the same as a probe for another temp controller called a "ATC-800+" which has a known resistance of 10K at 25C and a Beta curve of 3435K between 25/85C.
All that being said Digi-Key has said NTC Thermistors for less then a dollar a piece Part link. I ordered 5 and I'm testing one now side by side with the original probe with good results, I'm getting a consistent temperature within .3C (1F) of the original probe at temps between 32.2C (90F) and -19C (-2.2F).
So I plan to take a SS probe I have sitting around (cheap digital oven probe) cut the end off and pull the K-Type probe out then insert my NTC Thermistor and seal it up. This way I can have a SS probe use switch out and use my temp controller for a Sous vide cooker via my slow cooker. I don't trust the original probe sitting in a hot water bath.
Thanks for this info, could be very useful in the future
Does anyone know what page of the thread or date that I need to look for to find out how to properly program this unit to hold a specific temperature? Thank you
Here's to hoping I bought the correct one....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110V-All-pu...s=63&clkid=7747912314726561147#ht_4040wt_1037
Mine. I decided to double up on outlets, in case I want to add fans later. So, we have two outlets for heat on one side and two outlets for cool on the other. Otherwise, this is pretty much identical to the OP build. Only took me a week to receive my order. Gotta wait till next weekend for the fridge, but it's tested and working smooth! Cheers!
mjmac85 said:Now I wish I had thought of this. Great idea.
Repeat steps 1-4 for "F2". This is the difference value. Default is 0.5C. If you max temp is set to 18C and your difference is set to 0.5C then the heater will turn off when the wine hits 18C and the cooler with turn on. When the wine temp drops to 17.5C the heater turns back on and the cooler turns off..
Question to those that have been using these for a while: what settings do you recommend for F2 and F3?
This will be my first ferm chamber, so I have zero experience. It'll be controlling a medium size fridge with a ceramic heater/fan for heating.
Thanks.
Not quite. F1 is a set temp, not a max temp. The activation temps are the set temp plus or minus the differential. If you have F1 set to 18.0C and F2 set to 0.5C, nothing will happen as long as the temp stays between 17.5C and 18.5C. If the temp warms to 18.5C the cooling relay will turn on and stay on until the temp reaches 18.0C. Similarly, if the temp cools to 17.5C, the heating relay will come on, and stay on until the temp reaches 18.0C.
I'd go with at least 0.5 for F2, and max out F3 (10 min IIRC).
I got my controller built this weekend. I plugged it in and tested it with the default settings. It's working perfectly! However, it was late and my brain wasn't working. I wasn't able to easily figure out how to change the settings. Can anyone give me a quick tutorial on what you press on the panel to make changes? Thanks!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!Go back 11 posts from yours.
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