ebay aquarium temp controller build

[stratslinger]

I think mine did that the very first time I turned it on - I even got a little bit of smoke and the smell of hot solder coming out of my box.

I shut it down immediately, took a peek inside the box (everything looked fine) then powered it back up again. It's been flawless ever since...

 

[asthepenguinflies]

Alright, well I've taken some pictures of everything I could (I'm not worried about my connections to the controller itself, so I didn't bother taking those). Unfortunately the 1/8" jack is pretty hard to take pictures of, but I did my best. All the pictures, including those of the finished project, can be found here.

I'm thinking there may have been one of two problems:

1. Stratslinger's phantom problem which may have just been solder "setting in" or something. I don't remember smoke or smelling hot solder, but then again I didn't take it all apart right then.

2. I noticed that my bundle of positive/hot wires was bent in such a way that the shielding of one of the wires could have, theoretically, been in partial contact with one of the 1/8" mono jack's terminals causing some strange readings from the sensor to be read as a short by the controller.

Other than those two, I have no clue what the problem could be. If anyone spots something in the pictures, let me know.

Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[krazydave]

EE and the alarm will come up if you unplug the sensor also. Or if you turn it on without it plugged in.
And it usually takes a bit to go away once you plug it in.

Everything looks fine to me, though.

 

[coldchill]

Thanks to everyone who had contributed to this thread. Here is a link to my temp controller build, I couldn't have done it without this thread.

http://www.bootknockerbrewing.com/2011/08/dual-phase-temperature-controller.html

 

[cwi]

Other than those two, I have no clue what the problem could be. If anyone spots something in the pictures, let me know.

Thanks for all the help so far!

I assume you secured the wires by crimping the wires in the cord lock.

If there is room for insulating the connections (PETE tubing, shrink tubing, etc) around the male jack connections, it can help prevent shorting when the jack is stressed as well as preventing wire fatigue. If you are not familiar with shrink tubing, I believe someone documented their jack install with how-to instructions that included insulating the terminals with tubing.

Did the EE (sensor error) alarm happen when the sensor was plugged in, or while/before you inserted male jack? Can you recreate the problem by jiggling the jack and/or wires (while leaving it fully inserted)?

 

[danger831]

well finally got around to wiring mine up but now cant find the programing instruction. Can some one please help I just have it wired to cool ? Thanks

 

[FooFan]

well finally got around to wiring mine up but now cant find the programing instruction. Can some one please help I just have it wired to cool ? Thanks

I can scan mine in and email it to if you want. Need to do it at work so not till Monday.

Send me a PM with your email address if you want me to.

Cheers

 

[bovineblitz]

well finally got around to wiring mine up but now cant find the programing instruction. Can some one please help I just have it wired to cool ? Thanks

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=stc+1000+directions

 

[mattd2]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=stc+1000+directions

Holy crap that was awesome! Cheers for the laugh

 

[physast]

I just wired up my unit and plugged it in. The unit powers up reads a temp reading fine. I then set the cooling by pressing the 'S' button for 3 sec and using the up/down arrows. After that I hit the power button to save and then smoke bomb... Here is my crude wiring diagram (sorry for the quality). Did I do something wrong??

 

[asthepenguinflies]

I just wired up my unit and plugged it in. The unit powers up reads a temp reading fine. I then set the cooling by pressing the 'S' button for 3 sec and using the up/down arrows. After that I hit the power button to save and then smoke bomb... Here is my crude wiring diagram (sorry for the quality). Did I do something wrong??

Your diagram looks good, but I'd double check all of your connections and make sure the hot tab is broken off on the outlet.

Also, make sure you're using the right controller (110 for north america, 220 for other english speaking countries). If you have it wired properly, and it's still not working, I'm guessing it's either the wrong power for the controller, or the controller itself is defective.

Aside from that, I'm not sure we'll be much help. The diagram is exactly the way I have mine wired up and it works fine.

 

[physast]

Your diagram looks good, but I'd double check all of your connections and make sure the hot tab is broken off on the outlet.

Also, make sure you're using the right controller (110 for north america, 220 for other english speaking countries). If you have it wired properly, and it's still not working, I'm guessing it's either the wrong power for the controller, or the controller itself is defective.

Aside from that, I'm not sure we'll be much help. The diagram is exactly the way I have mine wired up and it works fine.

Ok after further investigating I figured out the cause of the smoke bomb... I wired in an led light to turn on when the cooling came on. The resistor on the led blew. I am not sure what kind of led/light to use. What rating should I be using?

Thanks for all the helpful post on this sight! This project really ease easire than you might think.

 

[wakkow]

Ok after further investigating I figured out the cause of the smoke bomb... I wired in an led light to turn on when the cooling came on. The resistor on the led blew. I am not sure what kind of led/light to use. What rating should I be using?

Thanks for all the helpful post on this sight! This project really ease easire than you might think.

What is the LED rated for and what does it draw? How did you have it wired when it blew?

 

[JuanMoore]

Ok after further investigating I figured out the cause of the smoke bomb... I wired in an led light to turn on when the cooling came on. The resistor on the led blew. I am not sure what kind of led/light to use. What rating should I be using?

Thanks for all the helpful post on this sight! This project really ease easire than you might think.

LED's typically run on low voltage DC current, not 110V AC. To wire a pilot light in a 110V circuit, you need either A) a transformer and appropriate resistor for your LED, or B) an LED fixture designed for 110V, or C) a non LED pilot light. FWIW the STC-1000 has pilot lights for both heating and cooling already built in to the display.

 

[AnionicStrength]

Hello Ladies and Gentleman, I have read most of the thread but cannot figure out what I am doing wrong.

I have been having trouble with one of these controllers that I ordered off ebay. It's the 110v model. I have tried wiring it up extremely simply to troubleshoot the problem.

I have terminal 1 and 2 wired to the wall plug and terminal 3 and 4 to the temperature sensor. I plug in the unit and the screen appears with the temperature. The light next to cool flashes for 2 minutes and then the unit clicks and the light next to cool stays steady. My multimeter shows 110v AC across terminals 1 and 2, but 0v AC across 7 and 8.

Any idea what I am doing wrong?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

Hello Ladies and Gentleman, I have read most of the thread but cannot figure out what I am doing wrong.

I have been having trouble with one of these controllers that I ordered off ebay. It's the 110v model. I have tried wiring it up extremely simply to troubleshoot the problem.

I have terminal 1 and 2 wired to the wall plug and terminal 3 and 4 to the temperature sensor. I plug in the unit and the screen appears with the temperature. The light next to cool flashes for 2 minutes and then the unit clicks and the light next to cool stays steady. My multimeter shows 110v AC across terminals 1 and 2, but 0v AC across 7 and 8.

Any idea what I am doing wrong?

Thanks in advance!

The unit "switches" on the power from terminal 5 to 6 (to heat) and 7 to 8 (to cool). It doesn't draw power from main supply.

You need to apply power to 5 for it to go to 6 (when it switches) and the same for 7 to go to 8.

M_C

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

I posted a build in this thread here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-fish-tank-controller-build-using-wal-mart-parts-261506/

Since it's a bit long I posted it in a different thread.

I'll update it with a few things (wiring, colors, etc).

M_C

 

[Spartan1979]

I've already built one of these. I'm thinking about putting another one together just as a thermometer. I won't attach anything to 5, 6, 7, or 8. Seems like it would be a relatively cheap digital thermometer with a probe.

 

[JuanMoore]

I've already built one of these. I'm thinking about putting another one together just as a thermometer. I won't attach anything to 5, 6, 7, or 8. Seems like it would be a relatively cheap digital thermometer with a probe.

If you just want the thermometer feature you might take a look at the single stage fahrenheit one. It has a nice SS temp probe, and can often be found cheaper than the STC-1000.

 

[krazydave]

I bought a thermometer with a probe from Home Depot for $7... It even keeps record of highs and lows, plus humidity.

 

[emjay]

I bought a thermometer with a probe from Home Depot for $7... It even keeps record of highs and lows, plus humidity.

I have one of those too... though it has a thermometer on the unit itself, as WELL AS the probe. So it actually keeps both "interior" AND "exterior" temperatures.

 

[Spartan1979]

If you just want the thermometer feature you might take a look at the single stage fahrenheit one. It has a nice SS temp probe, and can often be found cheaper than the STC-1000.

I looked at those. They're not much cheaper. The STC-1000 would give me the option of using it as a controller in the future.

I may have to check out the one Home Depot has.

 

[Spartan1979]

I have one of those too... though it has a thermometer on the unit itself, as WELL AS the probe. So it actually keeps both "interior" AND "exterior" temperatures.

Do you have a brand and model number for that? I didn't see it on their website. Thanks.

 

[krazydave]

I'm not at home and it's pretty buried in my garage at the moment. But I do have a pic of it.
From the pic I can see it's an 'Accurite'. Not sure of the model no. however.

 

[snow145532]

do I need to put a fuse on this? I've seen some builds with fuses built in and others without it. Not sure if it's necessary or not. Would a power strip with a surge protector work just as well?

 

[DeNomad]

I am pretty impressed with this STC-1000 controller but my fridge is rated at 15 amps and this controller is rated at 10 amps.

Does anyone know of a 15 amp or greater alternative with same features and price range?

This is the fridge I bought (but I got it at Costco for $140). http://www.livingdirect.com/Danby-Energy-Star-4.4-Cu.-Ft.-All-Refrigerator-Steel-Finish/DAR125SLDD,default,pd.html

 

[cfrazier77]

This one is $62 complete from Amazon and handles 20 amps for both heat and cool.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057APR3I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Although, 15 amps is a lot for a little fridge like that. I wonder if it is a misprint.

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

I am pretty impressed with this STC-1000 controller but my fridge is rated at 15 amps and this controller is rated at 10 amps.

Does anyone know of a 15 amp or greater alternative with same features and price range?

This is the fridge I bought (but I got it at Costco for $140). http://www.livingdirect.com/Danby-Energy-Star-4.4-Cu.-Ft.-All-Refrigerator-Steel-Finish/DAR125SLDD,default,pd.html

That's probably a 15A "start"... Ain't no way that small fridge is using 15A during normal run time.

I have a full sized fridge running through a controller, and I haven't had a problem.

M_C

 

[cwi]

I am pretty impressed with this STC-1000 controller but my fridge is rated at 15 amps and this controller is rated at 10 amps.

Does anyone know of a 15 amp or greater alternative with same features and price range?

This is the fridge I bought (but I got it at Costco for $140). http://www.livingdirect.com/Danby-Energy-Star-4.4-Cu.-Ft.-All-Refrigerator-Steel-Finish/DAR125SLDD,default,pd.html

As said before, that dorm-sized fridge does not draw 15 amps continuously, and doubtful even instantaneously at start up. This is just going off a basic sanity check that many larger fridges and freezers don't even draw that. I would bet the start up draw is less than 5 amps, and 2 amps when running.

In this case, start up current is not an issue in regards to the controller solenoids.

Are you getting these numbers directly off the plate on the fridge?

You have to read into those numbers, and there are usually a few different ratings. For fridges, they don't usually give running amps, only the highest amp draw possible. That would be start-up current + lights + ice maker + water solenoids + fan + defroster + ..... all added up to give a max possible current.

 

[DeNomad]

Well that number was simply from the website, and it must be a typo. Running current is 1.3 Amps as per the plate on the back.

Well I look forward to having an actual temperature controller. I've been running my fridge on a programmable timer the past two days and it's kept the fridge between 58 and 64 deg F but it's just to much work to set up.

 

[snow145532]

I just harvested this from a power strip. Should I keep the circuit breaker or lop it off?

 

[SkyHighBrew88]

Quick question, I was planning on building one of these soon but cannot find whether or not these controllers come with a sensor/probe.

eBay seller just shows that the contents are the controller only, is the sensor/probe just a separate purchase? If so where can you get one?

 

[bovineblitz]

It comes with a probe

 

[SkyHighBrew88]

Very nice, thanks...

 

[cwi]

Quick question, I was planning on building one of these soon but cannot find whether or not these controllers come with a sensor/probe.

eBay seller just shows that the contents are the controller only, is the sensor/probe just a separate purchase? If so where can you get one?

It comes with a probe

Very nice, thanks...

Is this your first time buying something (directly from china) on the internets?

If you chose the seller because he was ~$2 cheaper than the recommended and verified sellers, and the seller is stating that only the controller comes in the sale, you might as well consult the magic 8 ball for advice before buying.

If you have a pressing need for the controller, it may be safer to spend the extra few dollars and get one from a known good seller. If you found a substantially discounted one, maybe get a second one from that seller. There was a seller a few weeks ago that had them for ~$20 shipped. That is the cheapest price I have heard for the model in this thread - STC-1000.

There really should be a wiki for this thread. Things in the ad that need to be verified are-
The ad specifies it is a 110V model, or the 110V model will be delivered based on your country.
The model is the dual stage version (STC-1000, but the model number is not always stated).
And now, depending how this purchase turns out, checking that the probe is included may need to be stated in the ad as well.

 

[Irishwrench]

I have one replacement transformer left if you need it

Thanks for the offer. I found an old laptop charger that is 110v to 12v 1A. I am going to use that in place of the 220v transformer.

 

[SkyHighBrew88]

Is this your first time buying something (directly from china) on the internets?

If you chose the seller because he was ~$2 cheaper than the recommended and verified sellers, and the seller is stating that only the controller comes in the sale, you might as well consult the magic 8 ball for advice before buying.

If you have a pressing need for the controller, it may be safer to spend the extra few dollars and get one from a known good seller. If you found a substantially discounted one, maybe get a second one from that seller. There was a seller a few weeks ago that had them for ~$20 shipped. That is the cheapest price I have heard for the model in this thread - STC-1000.

There really should be a wiki for this thread. Things in the ad that need to be verified are-
The ad specifies it is a 110V model, or the 110V model will be delivered based on your country.
The model is the dual stage version (STC-1000, but the model number is not always stated).
And now, depending how this purchase turns out, checking that the probe is included may need to be stated in the ad as well.

Not sure why you think this is my first internet purchase or why you are assuming I'm going for the lowest price but the contents clearly only list the controller. It's called covering your a** when you know you're buying from someone that averages 10 days shipping time. Seems reasonable enough to not make assumptions and be sure I shouldn't need to order other parts that may also need to ship from Hong Kong. The seller is "mixtea" and is a 110VAC STC-1000 controller. His prices range from $26-$30 and ships from Hong Kong. I also just noticed other sellers are not showing the probe in the contents.

 

[JetSmooth]

Not sure why you think this is my first internet purchase or why you are assuming I'm going for the lowest price but the contents clearly only list the controller. It's called covering your a** when you know you're buying from someone that averages 10 days shipping time. Seems reasonable enough to not make assumptions and be sure I shouldn't need to order other parts that may also need to ship from Hong Kong. The seller is "mixtea" and is a 110VAC STC-1000 controller. His prices range from $26-$30 and ships from Hong Kong. I also just noticed other sellers are not showing the probe in the contents.

I got mine from mixtea and was very happy with it. Probe came in my box.

I'd actually mis-ordered the 220v model and sent a quick message and they swapped it for the 110v.

I'll look them up when I order for my next project.

 

[cwi]

Not sure why you think this is my first internet purchase or why you are assuming I'm going for the lowest price but the contents clearly only list the controller. It's called covering your a** when you know you're buying from someone that averages 10 days shipping time. Seems reasonable enough to not make assumptions and be sure I shouldn't need to order other parts that may also need to ship from Hong Kong. The seller is "mixtea" and is a 110VAC STC-1000 controller. His prices range from $26-$30 and ships from Hong Kong. I also just noticed other sellers are not showing the probe in the contents.

I didn't think this was your first purchase on the internets. Guess you didn't get the joke. I was implying you weren't being very savvy, like a person new to the internets.

Here is the summarized version-
Q: Does a seller I am not mentioning include a probe in an auction listing I will also not provide?
A:Yes.
You: Mystery solved. Looks like I am good to go, then.
Me:????

How is that check going to "cover your a**"?
Also, Hong Kong = China in case you haven't been keeping up with global politics.

The only reason I assumed you were going for the lowest price, is because there are many other sellers (recommended in this thread) all within $1 of each other and the normal price of ~$26. Why else would someone pick an unknown, if not for price. Given the complete lack of information in your original post (seller name, link to auction, etc.), I gave the standard buying advice so future buyers don't make the assumption that all sellers and controllers are the same.

Your seller, Mixtea now that you stated it, is a known seller that had some negative reports early in this thread, but lately seems to have had satisfied customers.

There are many sellers that do specifically state 110V, dual stage, and that the probe is included. I suggested buying from them, mainly for future readers. There continue to be many cases of newbies purchasing 220V or single stage only controllers.

 

[barrooze]

EDIT!!! Turns out this is not a dual-stage controller! It is a single-stage only! This is fine for keezer controllers, but be careful if you want to use this for a ferm chamber where you need cool and heat. Sorry for the confusion! I myself was quite confused!!!

-------------------------------------------------

Original Post:
FYI, I ordered 3 110v STC-1000s (EDIT: actually bought WH7016Cs) on June 28 from hkaquarium2010. He shipped my controllers the next day and I received them on July 9th. His listing states:

One Set Included

1 x Mini-Temperature Controller
1 x Temperature sensor probe with cable
Wiring diagram for installation
Standard Factory Package

I paid $21/controller. $63 total for 3 controllers. I didn't find any other 110v STC-1000s for cheaper. His current listing is $22/ctrl. I'd recommend this seller to others.