ebay aquarium temp controller build

[big_al_in_k-zoo]

I also used a dremel with a cut-off disc.

 

[Flomaster]

my experience with cutting plastic and the dremmel is that it melts the plastic rather than making a nice cut. perhaps I have the RPMS to high but slower RPM doesn't seem to cut it.

I personally used a sharp razer blade. I made several light passes with the bladed until I punched through and then I was able to just slice all the way through plastic

-=Jason=-

 

[Mobius570]

Thanks again to the OP! I got the controller in and built the unit fairly easy and it's now controlling the temp for a new batch of beer brewed today.

 

[d_ozz68]

Mine still hasn't arrived Ordered it Jan. 4, they claim it was shipped on the 6th with an anticipated delivery date of Jan. 13 - Jan. 21.......I have the outlet wired and mounted in the box, just waiting very impatiently, with an empty Keezer, for the controller to arrive.

 

[joeybeer]

I ordered Jan 5 and it's expected to get here on or before the 24th...we'll see ...

 

[big_al_in_k-zoo]

Mine took like 2 weeks. I was so anxious to get it, I constantly checked the mailbox!

 

[d_ozz68]

Mine took like 2 weeks. I was so anxious to get it, I constantly checked the mailbox!

Mine is going into week three now. For the last 7-10 days I have been walking out to the mailbox as anxious as a kid walking down the stairs on Christmas morning, only to find a lump of coal in the mailbox.

And it will begin again tomorrow at around 3:00pm EST........

 

[Mobius570]

Mine still hasn't arrived Ordered it Jan. 4, they claim it was shipped on the 6th with an anticipated delivery date of Jan. 13 - Jan. 21.......I have the outlet wired and mounted in the box, just waiting very impatiently, with an empty Keezer, for the controller to arrive.

Strange I ordered mine Jan 6th and got the 20th.

 

[Walker]

you can't really complain about the shipping time here guys. The shipping is free and it has to come half way around the world.

I suspect that stuff piles up to be shipped and catches the next cargo boat across the pacific. If you get lucky, yours gets on the boat the day after you order. If you get unlucky, it sits for a couple of weeks before it gets on a boat.

If you wanted it faster than "free", then you had the option of paying for it.

Just saying....

 

[Walker]

you can't really complain about the shipping time here guys. The shipping is free and it has to come half way around the world.

I suspect that stuff piles up to be shipped and catches the next cargo boat across the pacific. If you get lucky, yours gets on the boat the day after you order. If you get unlucky, it sits for a couple of weeks before it gets on a boat.

If you wanted it faster than "free", then you had the option of paying for it.

Just saying....

Well, to be more accurate, you either paid a higher price for the item with free shipping, or you paid a lower price with an added-on shipping fee.

either way, the thing ships for very litt and comes from the other side of the planet.

 

[dstar26t]

I ordered another one on 1/4/11 and it arrived on 1/14/11.

Is there an issue with splicing the sensor wire?

 

[Hermit]

I ordered another one on 1/4/11 and it arrived on 1/14/11.

Is there an issue with splicing the sensor wire?

You temporarily add on to the end and see if your reading changes.

 

[d_ozz68]

I ordered another one on 1/4/11 and it arrived on 1/14/11.

Is there an issue with splicing the sensor wire?

Ordered mine the same day and the mailman came and went today, 10 days after yours arrived, and still no controller.

I guess all I can do is wait........

 

[Mobius570]

Well, to be more accurate, you either paid a higher price for the item with free shipping, or you paid a lower price with an added-on shipping fee.

either way, the thing ships for very litt and comes from the other side of the planet.

Considering I ordered a case for my Archos 101 tablet in the middle of December and just got it last week from China as well as paid a ton for shipping, I would say this controller was shipped for minimal cost and quickly.

 

[wetzie]

I have mine all built but it is not turning on any lamps. I lost the instructions. Can anyone post a copy of them.
thanx

 

[Flomaster]

I have mine all built but it is not turning on any lamps. I lost the instructions. Can anyone post a copy of them.
thanx

press set button once use arrows to dial in your temp

press and hold set button to change from Heat or Cool

thats just about it the other options I haven't messed with.

mind you I probably have a different controller than you do

-=Jason=-

 

[Mobius570]

Here's a silly question. Can the stock probe that came with it be submerged in liquid? Or anyone have a recommendation for one that can be?

 

[Walker]

Here's a silly question. Can the stock probe that came with it be submerged in liquid? Or anyone have a recommendation for one that can be?

I'm pretty sure it can. It's encased in rubber, it sold as an aquarium controller, and rebel brewer says that their probe (which is probably safe to assume is the stock one that comes with it) can be submersed.

 

[Walker]

press set button once use arrows to dial in your temp

press and hold set button to change from Heat or Cool

thats just about it the other options I haven't messed with.

mind you I probably have a different controller than you do

-=Jason=-

Yeah, you have a different controller than the rest of us.

For the "SCT-1000" controller (like in the OP):
by default, it shows the current temp.

Pressing up or down shows you the set-temp for a moment and then returns to the default screen.

Pressing the set button and holding it for a few seconds goes into programming mode.

In programming mode, up and down cycles through the 4 parameters you can tweak.

F1 = set temp
F2 = "slop" range
F3 = compressor delay value
F4 = probe error correction

Cycle to the one you want to change with up and down. pressing set will show you the current value. pressing up and down while holding in the set button will change the value.

When you are all done changing things, press the power button to commit the changes and save them, then it returns to the default display.

 

[d_ozz68]

I have mine all built but it is not turning on any lamps. I lost the instructions. Can anyone post a copy of them.
thanx

I believe someone posted a link to the owners manual in post #591 of this thread.

 

[wetzie]

Got it thank you, and Walker for the excellent replies. I built this the other night and seems to be great. I built it into a three way electrical box with a little bit of cutting and it looks pretty good.
I will try to post pics but I follwed the insructions in post #1.

I believe someone posted a link to the owners manual in post #591 of this thread.

 

[KowboyTrav]

I ordered another one on 1/4/11 and it arrived on 1/14/11.

Is there an issue with splicing the sensor wire?

After a couple months of use, some of the insulation on my sensor wire got stripped off and shorted. I spliced some 18 guage (i think) wire onto it, and it hasn't had a problem since then.

 

[killerzeek]

Could this temp controller be used for mash temp regulation?

 

[ShakerD]

Could this temp controller be used for mash temp regulation?

It depends on the draw required and your set up.

 

[Walker]

Could this temp controller be used for mash temp regulation?

Yes.... technically.

It could definitely turn on an off a heat source based on a temperature reading. But, it uses mechanical relays to act as switches. You will be turning the heat on and off a large number of times when maintaining mash temps in a HERMS or RIMS kind of system. This is not good for mechanical relays and it reduces their life span.

You would probably also have to use another relay (solid state or mechanical) to handle the heating element load, because the rating on this thing is only 10A (a 1200W heater is the largest you could use with it.)

But.... it WOULD probably work.


A PID is not much more expensive, and will drive a solid state relay properly.

 

[Mobius570]

After building this project I have come to realize that I am by no means a craftsman. It works and it's functional, but it's not pretty.

Any one have a good ready to print C to F template that is sized for these project boxes?

And now for something completely different........ I started building my ferm chamber that will be controlled by this controller, and now really know that I'm not meant to have tools in my hand. I need a beer!

 

[d_ozz68]

post #283 has a chart that you could use.

 

[Flomaster]

Nope, that's the single-stage. You want this one.

so I just pulled the trigger on this controller.

so I'll one the single stage for my Kezzer, and I'll use the other single stage for my Lagering, and I'll use my dual stage controller for the main fermentation box.

seeing as I had to put a heating pad in with my Hefe to keep it up to temp it wanted to drop down to 64 after the yeasties settled down.

-=Jason=-

 

[Mobius570]

post #283 has a chart that you could use.

Thanks! I don't know how I missed that page.

 

[XXXXX]

I hope you tinned (soldered solid) the ends of the wires to prevent fraying and fire. The screws and terminals on the receptacle and thermostat aren't meant to hold stranded wire.

Also, when connecting wires to screws, you should attach them in a clock-wise fashion around the screw, so that when it is tightened it pulls the wire tighter, not the inverse. Terminating electrical wires onto screws

You shouldn't use stranded wire in a setup like that...the power cord "fine" as long as the ends are tinned or joined to solid core wire with connectors, but for the rest, you'd be much better off going to Home Depot and buying 3-feet of 2-14 wire for $2 and using it inside the housing.

While you're there you can buy a black receptacle and cover for $1.50.

(Coming from an electrician. Not trying to rain on the parade, just some free good advice you didn't ask for.)