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Has anybody tried the XH-W1208 temparture controller? dx.com is selling them for $15 (shipping included), and it seems to have roughly equivalent specs to the STC-1000. Looks similar too - probably just a knock-off. :confused:
 
EricDP said:
Has anybody tried the XH-W1208 temparture controller? dx.com is selling them for $15 (shipping included), and it seems to have roughly equivalent specs to the STC-1000. Looks similar too - probably just a knock-off. :confused:

It's a single stage controller, so it can only control heat or cooling, not both at the same time. I have 3 very similar looking single stage controllers that read in Fahrenheit. They control my keezer and my HERMS where there's no need for dual stage. For my ferm chamber where I need dual stage control, I use the STC-1000.
 
I tried searching first I promise, but I couldn't quite find the answer. I have a single STC-like temp controller that I want to wire up with one outlet for cooling and the other outlet always on (for a keezer fan). Does anyone know where I could find a wiring diagram that'll allow me to accomplish this? Thanks!
 
I tried searching first I promise, but I couldn't quite find the answer. I have a single STC-like temp controller that I want to wire up with one outlet for cooling and the other outlet always on (for a keezer fan). Does anyone know where I could find a wiring diagram that'll allow me to accomplish this? Thanks!

If you want one outlet as always on just bypass the STC-1000 with that outlet and wire it direct to the power.
 
I went to Walmart and found that they had grounded electrical receptecals for only $0.67 each whereas the ge branded ones were $3-$3.50 each. Does anyone think there's a difference in using the $0.67 ones? They're rated 125V/15A
 
I went to Walmart and found that they had grounded electrical receptecals for only $0.67 each whereas the ge branded ones were $3-$3.50 each. Does anyone think there's a difference in using the $0.67 ones? They're rated 125V/15A

They are pretty much the same. What do you think contractors buy? The $3 GE or the $.37 ones that come in boxes of 100+?

Now there could be small differences as in how they are constructed and will hold up over time, the number of insertions, the tightness of the spades etc. but it is doubtful you would notice it.

Now I splurged and bought the gray Leviton Decora ones for $2.50, since they look really good in a black box. I saw a post here where the guy used those. These modern style outlets have the square profile which is way easier to cut a hole for than the old fashioned duplex semi-round ones. They have them at Home Depot/Lowe's/Electrical supply places. Hot glue will secure them inside the box.

Speaking of... You can buy $25 outlets too. They are "medical grade" and very popular among audiophiles. The same people that will spend $500-$5000 on a pair of cables, uh sorry, interconnects. Don't forget they need serious "burn-in time" to sound better.

I'm not aware of beer drinkers that have gone into extremes like that yet, but I'm sure it's coming slowly...
 
Has anybody tried the XH-W1208 temparture controller? dx.com is selling them for $15 (shipping included), and it seems to have roughly equivalent specs to the STC-1000. Looks similar too - probably just a knock-off. :confused:

They are a different kind. They look similar but are only single channel, heating OR cooling, run on 220V AC or 12V DC.

XH-W1208.jpg
 
They are pretty much the same. What do you think contractors buy? The $3 GE or the $.37 ones that come in boxes of 100+?

Now there could be small differences as in how they are constructed and will hold up over time, the number of insertions, the tightness of the spades etc. but it is doubtful you would notice it.

Now I splurged and bought the gray Leviton Decora ones for $2.50, since they look really good in a black box. I saw a post here where the guy used those. These modern style outlets have the square profile which is way easier to cut a hole for than the old fashioned duplex semi-round ones. They have them at Home Depot/Lowe's/Electrical supply places. Hot glue will secure them inside the box.

Speaking of... You can buy $25 outlets too. They are "medical grade" and very popular among audiophiles. The same people that will spend $500-$5000 on a pair of cables, uh sorry, interconnects. Don't forget they need serious "burn-in time" to sound better.

I'm not aware of beer drinkers that have gone into extremes like that yet, but I'm sure it's coming slowly...

Thanks for your input. I guess I'll be keeping the cheap ones.
 
I wired my STC -1000 up over the weekend. Everything was correct, double checked the schematics and Youtube vidoes...the plug doesnt work!!
Is my STC DOA and not sending power to the plug or am I missing something? The light was blinking for the cooling, but no power at the outlet.
 
I wired my STC -1000 up over the weekend. Everything was correct, double checked the schematics and Youtube vidoes...the plug doesnt work!!
Is my STC DOA and not sending power to the plug or am I missing something? The light was blinking for the cooling, but no power at the outlet.

I'm not looking at mine right now but there is a time delay that you set before the cooling kicks on. mine is set for 5-10 minutes so the compressor on my fridge doesn't kick on too often. When i first power it on, it waits for that delay, then starts the cooling.
 
I changed the temp and difference in temp but, didnt check the delay... guess I will when I get home from work.
 
I see most people are using an outlet box in the middle.

Is there any reason you couldn't take a 14 gauge extension cord, snip (hot and neutral) it in the middle, put the side coming from the wall outlet into the STC1000 power input, and the other side on the STC1000 power output and plug the freezer into that cord? Then I could keep the cord grounded by letting that flow all the way through to the the freezer plug?

I'm only using mine to control temp in my chest freezer/keezer. So I only need the cooling outlet.
 
...Is there any reason you couldn't take a 14 gauge extension cord, snip (hot and neutral) it in the middle, put the side coming from the wall outlet into the STC1000 power input, and the other side on the STC1000 power output and plug the freezer into that cord? Then I could keep the cord grounded by letting that flow all the way through to the the freezer plug?....
You can certainly install the controller in the middle of an extension cord. Although the wiring is little more involved than what you have stated. In particular, the neutral does not get switched, or provided, by the controller. The controller simply has an internal switch for the hot.

Connections to the controller for cool only would be:
Hot In to 1
Neutral In to 2
Jumper from 1 to 7
Hot Out to 8
Neutral Out to 2

It's best to enclose the controller in a plastic or metal enclosure. If metal, the enclosure should be grounded. A wood enclosure is not the best idea.
 
Quick question - I got my controller wired up and installed in a project box. However, we broke both tabs off the outlet, so just used a piece of bare copper wire to jump one side of the outlet. Having little wiring experience, is this OK? Does it prevent a hazard or anything?

Thanks.
 
That will work fine, no hazard. Make sure you are jumping the neutral (white) side, not the hot.
 
That will work fine, no hazard. Make sure you are jumping the neutral (white) side, not the hot.

Thanks Bigtex. Pretty sure that's what we did - we tested it and it works for both heat and cooling separately, so I think we're good to go!
 
Ugh hope someone can help. I'm not sure how to wire this controller. Single stage from lhbs. Similar to stc type single stage celcius with 11 pins image-2841833725.jpg
 
I talked to lhbs and they helped me out. It all made sense when I realized that load is my outlet. Hot from 3 to switched side of outlet. Neutral from outlet to 1.
 
I'm still loving the STC-1000 build but do radio shack even sell the 8x6x3 box that the OP used? I was in several different stores this week checking out the clearance items and never saw one that size.

Finally got around to building one of these! I couldn't find the 8"x6"x3" or the 7"x5"x3" project box in the stores in my area or online so I had to go with the 6"x4"x2" one. It turned out better than I expected, nice and compact. It is a very tight fit but it can be done!

TempCont1.jpg


TempCont2.jpg
 
Looks great. What wiring diagram did you use to add the fuze? And what fuze did you use? I like that idea.

Thanks! I used the wiring diagram out of Jay Cummings' "Keep it Cool (or Hot)" article in Brew Your Own Magazine, Jan-Feb 2012, Vol. 18, No.1, Pg. 65. It called for a 10 amp panel-mount fuse holder and a 10 amp fuse. The article directed to mount the fuse holder/fuse inline on the main hot-wire (black) coming in.
 
jweg,

Great looking build! I have the same size project box and am looking to follow a similar format as yours. Any chance you have any pictures of the inside or part numbers for the fuse holder / fuse? Looks like RadioShack might carry them. Thanks!
 
Anyone using Romex for the inside? Have a bunch of 12 left over from a project.
It can be used. Remove the outer sheathing. IMO, stranded wire is much easier to use in tight spaces and connections at the terminals will be more secure.
 
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