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ebay aquarium temp controller build

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[...]Which reminds me... Does anyone need to buy a 220V STC-1000?! I'll just sell it for cost ($6 difference) plus shipping (which I assume would be to Europe or somewhere else they use 220V) - not sure how much shipping would be...

I'd find out what the shipping would be to say London, because I suspect eating the $6 you're out will be the economical option.

In any case, there's a thread lurking around HBT on how to replace the STC-1000's internal transformer to convert from 220 to 110vac. It's not the all-time prettiest solution but if it ends up in a project box or poking through a keezer collar nobody's going to notice the hack job on the original case...

Cheers!
 
day_trippr said:
I'd find out what the shipping would be to say London, because I suspect eating the $6 you're out will be the economical option. In any case, there's a thread lurking around HBT on how to replace the STC-1000's internal transformer to convert from 220 to 110vac. It's not the all-time prettiest solution but if it ends up in a project box or poking through a keezer collar nobody's going to notice the hack job on the original case... Cheers!

Not a bad idea. I have the first one in my chest freezer fermentor, but if I ever switch to kegging (which I'm sure I'll do at some point down the road), I'll want one for my keezer/kegerator too... Thx.
 
I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldnt find much in the way of a definitive answer. For those of you using a light bulb in a paint can as a heating source, is that method safe? I bought the stuff to make this and then started to question whether this is safe since there will be moisture inside the freezer where the paint can goes.

Any thoughts? Also, for the power chord to the paint can, do you just run it under the lid of the freezer and does this allow much cold/hot air to escape?
 
cincybrewer said:
I'm sure this has been asked before but I couldnt find much in the way of a definitive answer. For those of you using a light bulb in a paint can as a heating source, is that method safe? I bought the stuff to make this and then started to question whether this is safe since there will be moisture inside the freezer where the paint can goes. Any thoughts? Also, for the power chord to the paint can, do you just run it under the lid of the freezer and does this allow much cold/hot air to escape?

The seal around the lid gives enough to let the cord under and yet still forms a good seal around it - I don't see it letting much air/temp out.
I had a similar thought about the moisture, and use DampRid inside to help with that. It helps some, but there is still moisture that builds up. One thing I noticed is that it caused a rust ring around the bottom of the freezer where it was sitting, so I put an old towel down underneath it now... Put something underneath it first - learn from my mistake!
 
The seal around the lid gives enough to let the cord under and yet still forms a good seal around it - I don't see it letting much air/temp out.
I had a similar thought about the moisture, and use DampRid inside to help with that. It helps some, but there is still moisture that builds up. One thing I noticed is that it caused a rust ring around the bottom of the freezer where it was sitting, so I put an old towel down underneath it now... Put something underneath it first - learn from my mistake!

Thanks for the info.
 
Has anyone used a strain relief for the temperature probe cord? If so, what size and where can I pick one up?

I have built a dozen or so of these. I just use a small hole in the box to pass the probe cord through, and tie a simple knot in it on the inside of the box. I then pull the cord from the outside to snug the knot up to the hole. Works perfectly.
 
glugglug said:
Has anyone used a strain relief for the temperature probe cord? If so, what size and where can I pick one up?

I picked mine up at Home Depot. I think it was 3/8th but I just got one that fit the cord.
 
What about 18 gauge? I've got a lot of 18 gauge solid copper wire that I would prefer to use over my 12 Gauge braided wire
 
Actually it's 14 gauge braided. It's what I plan to use as the power cord. Any problem with using smaller wire internally?
 
mr_rogers said:
Actually it's 14 gauge braided. It's what I plan to use as the power cord. Any problem with using smaller wire internally?

14 gauge is larger. It's what I used.
 
I think I got a faulty controller. The ones I've seen on hbt show four sections of two wire ports. My controller has only 7 total places for wire. Anyone have any pointers on how to wire this?

image-1586653306.jpg


image-3144377551.jpg
 
I'm just figuring that out. Working on wiring it now... Hope I get it all right.

I have a few wiring diagrams for the other single stage model, but I can't find the one I made for that model. Here's a crude one I found when doing a quick search here on HBT. You'll connect the temp probe to 3&4, and nothing to terminal 5. Hope that helps.

97293d1359476740-ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-temp-controller-diagram.jpg
 
This thread has been great and motivation for me to build my own temperature controller. I used the STC-1000 and have both heating and cooling. For heat I am using an old hair dryer instead of a light bulb or ceramic reptile heaters some have used. We had it on hand in the house and, with others incorporating blower fans in addition to their heat, I'm getting both in one small package.

Our weather turned very cold and the highs will be maybe 15 F and lows below 0 F until Monday when the forecast predicts hings in the mid 20's. With my kegerator in the garage I was motivated to get this project done. It's all working perfectly! Thanks again for the thread and all of the advice - all of the almost 400 pages!!!
 
I have a few wiring diagrams for the other single stage model, but I can't find the one I made for that model. Here's a crude one I found when doing a quick search here on HBT. You'll connect the temp probe to 3&4, and nothing to terminal 5. Hope that helps.
97293d1359476740-ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-temp-controller-diagram.jpg
That diagram worked perfect. So i have the whole thing wired up but i'm still a little confused about the settings… This is what I have so far. Actual temp set to 40 HC-00 (which from what i've read on HBT is cooling) D-3 CA-00 ( I haven't tested to accuracy of the probe yet) PT-10 What is confusing is the LS and HS LS started at -58 and HS at 19.4 the HS setting wont go higher than 19.4 so now i'm wondering if this is in relation to the desired temp setting (40) meaning that the controller will allow 40+19.4. Now i'm thinking these settings basically restrict the range of available temperatures to choose from? Wish I had the english instructions...

Disregard: I was misreading 194 f for 19.4 I now understand that it comes from the factory with the HS and LS set to their respective extremes. The more I futz around with things the more I learn!
 
Here are my pics for my heating source. The only thing left is to switch out the outlet on my temp controller to GFCI.

I'm wondering whether it would make sense to poke a bunch of tiny holes to let some of the heat escape the paint can?

PcZkg6xo6zU9NG8PMmDY16eQFvFiRNsZfw_8HrzaDEk=w533-h594-no


DSC03634.JPG


DSC03635.JPG
 
U don't want too much light in your ferm-chamber the threads I have seen about the paint can heater recommend only one small hole near the bottom so you know it's on. The can should produce enough heat by its self as long as you use a regular light bulb. Remember the bight the watt bulb the more heat
 
I haven't read all 300 pages of this thread but I just wanted the quick answer. What model refrigerators are most commonly used for lagering? Looking at making a purchase soon and I just want to make sure carboys will fit and the STC-1000 will be compatible.
 
bdknuc2 said:
I haven't read all 300 pages of this thread but I just wanted the quick answer. What model refrigerators are most commonly used for lagering? Looking at making a purchase soon and I just want to make sure carboys will fit and the STC-1000 will be compatible.

I took a chest freezer and put a collar on it so Could have more headspace and put a fermenter on the ledge the STC-100 will work on anything

image-1899935719.jpg
 
U don't want too much light in your ferm-chamber the threads I have seen about the paint can heater recommend only one small hole near the bottom so you know it's on. The can should produce enough heat by its self as long as you use a regular light bulb. Remember the bight the watt bulb the more heat

I could totally be wrong but I would think a bunch of tiny holes in the paint can would provide minimal light and wouldn't be enough to affect the fermentation (I ferment primarily in buckets). Add in the fact that the light only comes on when heating and it'd be even less.

The can definitely produces enough heat. I think I tested mine with a 60w bulb and it got too hot too touch, but that is what I'm worried about. I don't think a paint can and the light fixture is designed for that much heat so I figured if I poke some tiny holes it would allow some of the heat to escape and at the same time warm up the fermentation to the desired temps quicker.

Thoughts?
 
I could totally be wrong but I would think a bunch of tiny holes in the paint can would provide minimal light and wouldn't be enough to affect the fermentation (I ferment primarily in buckets). Add in the fact that the light only comes on when heating and it'd be even less.

The can definitely produces enough heat. I think I tested mine with a 60w bulb and it got too hot too touch, but that is what I'm worried about. I don't think a paint can and the light fixture is designed for that much heat so I figured if I poke some tiny holes it would allow some of the heat to escape and at the same time warm up the fermentation to the desired temps quicker.

Thoughts?

The biggest danger of excessive heat in the can is melting of the wires' insulation. Maybe use a smaller bulb, 20 or 40 watts perhaps?

Regarding light emissions, I'm not sure which wavelength skunks the hops. IIRC, it needs to be somewhere in the blue or UV range, where it splits off 3-methyl but-2-ene-1-thiol (MBT) from the Isohumulone molecule, right below the double oxygen bond (Dr. Roger Barth--"The Science of Beer Flavor," NHC 2013). MBT is responsible for the skunk flavor/aroma.

I would use one of those "black radiators" used for reptiles. They are ceramic, screw into a regular light socket and only generate heat, no light.
 
I use a small $11 ceramic heater with a fan from Walmart. It has overheat protection will not run if it falls over. I tried the paint can idea and it did work but even with a 40watt bulb it was too hot for my taste. Any other heater will work great I just was not a fan of the paint can. I hope this helps.
 
I think we need to start a H.B.T.A. (HomeBrewTalk Anonymous) group as I can't... stop... researching....reading....getting ideas....

Like many- this thread helped give me the courage to try this project out for myself. And I'm happy to report my first Lager is currently bubbling away at 50F :ban:

Also wanted to chime in with a "lessons learned" regarding securing the receptacle to the housing of the project box. I found the standard receptacle screws weren't holding under the pressure of plugging/unplugging power cords. A quick fix was to use #6 flat washers & #6-32 hex nuts to keep the receptacle mounted in it’s proper place. Pictures are often better than words:

#6-32 Hex Nuts & #6 Washers Used

Installed in project box

-and full right up for anyone interested.

Fermentation chamber build pics to follow.

-Cheers :rockin:
 
I think we need to start a H.B.T.A. (HomeBrewTalk Anonymous) group as I can't... stop... researching....reading....getting ideas....

+1 It's as much of an addiction as actually brewing!!! The SWMBO absolutely hates it! She doesn't understand how I can spend so much time on HBT looking at "beer stuff".
 
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