Yes, its made by "LOVE" and its about $60 if I recall. its been a few years since I did any looking into controllers. so for the price of 1 LOVE controller I can have 3 STC-1000's I'll take the C readings.
-=Jason=-
ebay aquarium temp controller build
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Yes, its made by "LOVE" and its about $60 if I recall. its been a few years since I did any looking into controllers. so for the price of 1 LOVE controller I can have 3 STC-1000's I'll take the C readings.
-=Jason=-
Here's a little pdf that I made with conversion of C to F. It fits nicely onto the top of the a radioshack project box or on the side of a fridge/freezer.
https://sites.google.com/site/barrooze/F-C_Chart.pdf
Thanks guys, I have built and sold a couple of these. They work great, and the price can't be beat! I've been out of the game for a while so I was hoping that someone had found one that worked in *F. I'll look into the Love Controller, but the price difference will likely cause me to stay with the STC and look at the chart. Guess I'm cheaper than lazy.
I do need a dual controller.
I do need a dual controller.
alien
Well-Known Member
I haven't seen one of these in °F, to be honest.
raouliii
Well-Known Member
The fahrenheit controllers are available, but they only control cool or heat, not both at the same time like the STC1000.
Another negative of the fahrenheit model that I use is the readout is in integer degrees, no tenths of a degree.
They can be found on ebay, example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Aquarium-F-/171144426512?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item27d900b410
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Temperature-Control-Controller-Thermostat-110V-58-194-Delay-w-Sensor-/171120859630?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d79919ee
I use one on my fermentation chamber in my garage. CH54 Single Stage Controller Even in mid-winter, the 9watt, constant ON, evaporator fan has provided enough heat for ale fermentation. I designed a simple toggle circuit to select the heat circuit in my chamber but have never had to implement it.
For me, the fahrenheit readout trumps all the negatives. I just got tired of converting using the handy-dandy chart posted next to the controller. Old dog, new tricks, I guess.
Another negative of the fahrenheit model that I use is the readout is in integer degrees, no tenths of a degree.
They can be found on ebay, example
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Aquarium-F-/171144426512?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item27d900b410
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Temperature-Control-Controller-Thermostat-110V-58-194-Delay-w-Sensor-/171120859630?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27d79919ee
I use one on my fermentation chamber in my garage. CH54 Single Stage Controller Even in mid-winter, the 9watt, constant ON, evaporator fan has provided enough heat for ale fermentation. I designed a simple toggle circuit to select the heat circuit in my chamber but have never had to implement it.
For me, the fahrenheit readout trumps all the negatives. I just got tired of converting using the handy-dandy chart posted next to the controller. Old dog, new tricks, I guess.
I am missing some basic concept here. Was hoping you guys can help.
I tried it using an old plug-receptacle and doing it like the diagram on page 1 but it would not turn on either circuit, although I heard the relay in the STC click and the heat or cool light would flash. I think I got confused by the breaking of the tab part but am not sure.
So I decided to try using female extension cords instead, no tab to worry about but am having the same issue. I did a diagram of my plan to assist, so far the lamps are not connected, I'll worry about them once it is working. Can you look at this and see where I went wrong?
I tried it using an old plug-receptacle and doing it like the diagram on page 1 but it would not turn on either circuit, although I heard the relay in the STC click and the heat or cool light would flash. I think I got confused by the breaking of the tab part but am not sure.
So I decided to try using female extension cords instead, no tab to worry about but am having the same issue. I did a diagram of my plan to assist, so far the lamps are not connected, I'll worry about them once it is working. Can you look at this and see where I went wrong?
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
I am missing some basic concept here. Was hoping you guys can help.
I tried it using an old plug-receptacle and doing it like the diagram on page 1 but it would not turn on either circuit, although I heard the relay in the STC click and the heat or cool light would flash. I think I got confused by the breaking of the tab part but am not sure.
So I decided to try using female extension cords instead, no tab to worry about but am having the same issue. I did a diagram of my plan to assist, so far the lamps are not connected, I'll worry about them once it is working. Can you look at this and see where I went wrong?
Your wiring is nothing like any of the diagrams posted in this thread. Terminal sets 5/6 and 7/8 are simply switches, they don't supply power to the outlets. You need to run your neutrals from the incoming line to terminal 2 and to the outlet or outlets. The way your diagram is set up, the outlet/s is/are getting hot wires to both sides, and no neutrals. The incoming hot should only be split 3 ways, to terminals 1, 5, and 7 in your diagram. Hopefully you didn't fry your controller with it wired this way. Take a look at this for wiring with a single outlet-
Or this one for wiring with two outlets-
I am missing some basic concept here. Was hoping you guys can help.
I tried it using an old plug-receptacle and doing it like the diagram on page 1 but it would not turn on either circuit, although I heard the relay in the STC click and the heat or cool light would flash. I think I got confused by the breaking of the tab part but am not sure.
So I decided to try using female extension cords instead, no tab to worry about but am having the same issue. I did a diagram of my plan to assist, so far the lamps are not connected, I'll worry about them once it is working. Can you look at this and see where I went wrong?
you have your wiring all wrong.
here check out my Diagram in this link:https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...0teFdneEhyUWlJbHEya1lGU3c&usp=drive_web#gid=0
troy2000
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I'm not sure whether this will help, but here's a photo of my wiring; some readers may relate better to seeing the actual wires instead of a schematic. Power to the unit itself is at the bottom of the pic. Te probe is above it, then comes the heating and cooling switches.
The hot (black) wire from the power cord is wire-nutted to three pigtails: one for unit power; one for the heating switch, and one for the cooling switch.
The neutral (white) wire from the power cord runs to the duplex outlet, as does a neutral leg for the unit power. That means the unit itself has power at all times.
A return (red) leg runs from each switch to the hot side of a plug on the duplex, and the tab is broken on that side. When a heating or cooling switch closes, power feeds through it from a black wire, and on to its respective outlet through a red wire. Since the power cord's neutral is hardwired to the outlets, that completes the circuit.
Hope that helps, instead of just confusing things more....
add: I forgot to mention that the power cord's ground wire is also connected to the outlet.
I am completely willing to accept that, in fact I know it is since it doesn't work. Rather than diagrams showing how to use the plug can you say what is wrong with mine and how to make it work with the cords instead of a plug?
I think I see what I did wrong though, does this fix it?
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
I am completely willing to accept that, in fact I know it is since it doesn't work. Rather than diagrams showing how to use the plug can you say what is wrong with mine and how to make it work with the cords instead of a plug?
I think I see what I did wrong though, does this fix it?
That should work.
And FWIW if the cooling light is blinking like it was earlier, that means that the compressor delay is on. I think the default setting is either 3 or 5 min. Basically the cooling relay activation will be delayed when the unit is just turned on, or when the it's been on recently. This protects the compressor from short cycling, but can sometimes cause people to think the unit doesn't work because they don't realize they need to wait for the delay before it will come on. This is only on the cooling side though, the heat side should come on immediately.
Thanks JuanMoore, I'll hook it up tonight and report back. Also good info on the blinking/delay setting. I have mine on 10 minutes (max) since it is on a 20 year old 26cf fridge/freezer. I'll report back in case anyone wants to try cords instead of plugs.
Long term I am hoping I can use the fridge side for ale fermentation at 60-65F, and the freezer side (side by side unit) as a kegerator, if I can get the cold-air adjusted all the way to the freezer side and it gets cold enough that is.
Long term I am hoping I can use the fridge side for ale fermentation at 60-65F, and the freezer side (side by side unit) as a kegerator, if I can get the cold-air adjusted all the way to the freezer side and it gets cold enough that is.
I am completely willing to accept that, in fact I know it is since it doesn't work. Rather than diagrams showing how to use the plug can you say what is wrong with mine and how to make it work with the cords instead of a plug?
I think I see what I did wrong though, does this fix it?
that looks great, you still can add those LEDS if you wish to your current setup.
-=Jason=-
When I hooked it all up nothing worked...then I just wired the STC1000 in direct it works fine so I think I screwed my plug when I broke the tabs off...is there any reason this should happen or is there anything I need do? There was a bit of a crunch when breaking the tabs so maybe I killed the plug. I'm 99% sure I had it wired in correct...nothing was plugged into the plugs if that matters
EDIT: Realized I broke tabs on BOTH sides of plug, I'm guessing that is my issue
EDIT: Realized I broke tabs on BOTH sides of plug, I'm guessing that is my issue
JuanMoore
Getting the banned back together
403Brewer said:
Yep, only need to break the tab on the hot side. You can make a jumper to connect the neutral sides of the plug.
seejayabney
Well-Known Member
So I have been sifting through the 360 pages of posts on this build and haven't been able to find if I am able to get the exact same temp controller used on Amazon.com. Anyone have the product number or anything to identify if I am getting the right one from Amazon? Unfortunately my ferment freezer is in our carport and winter (In North Carolina) is quickly approaching. Thanks in advance for the help.
Does this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084Y8HJK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Does this one work?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084Y8HJK/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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tennesseean_87
Well-Known Member
I'm going to have to do this to run a fan/heat pad in my mini SOF. Then when I have more space, I'll just upgrade to a fridge and keep the controller!
That's the one I use and it works great!
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Confirmed working, thanks for the help guys!
I added the lamps back in on the drawing, have not connected them yet since the STC is in use right now, but the revised diagram is below. My question is the combined lead (black line), should it go to port 2 as shown or port 1?
So far I am finding that the temperature is too low. The STC turns on the fridge when it hits the number I set and the fridge cools so fast that even after it shuts off the temp keeps lowering. I am saving some electricity bill but need to tweak the settings/thresholds/window a bit. I wanted a temp between 60-65 but when it kicks in at 65 it keeps getting down to around 55-56 before the temperature slowly starts going back up. Any good threads about the settings?
seejayabney
Well-Known Member
Perfect, thanks everyone. Time to order and get started! Starting off with a wee-heavy!
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troy2000
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Your probe needs some thermal mass to work with. My mini-fridge conversion didn't work properly until I taped the probe directly to the side of a full carboy, and taped a patch of double foil-sided, bubble wrap insulation over it.
With the probe in the air, I was cycling between the heater and compressor; same when I tried dropping it into a 1-quart tea kettle of water. But with the probe taped to the carboy and insulated from the air, the temperature usually overshoots the set temp by .1*C.
Example: I'm fermenting a saison right now. My heater kicked in a few minutes ago, when the STC-1000 display had dropped to 25.5*C. It shut off at 26.0*C, and the temperature stopped rising at 26.1*C. Now it's flashing back and forth between 26.1 and 26.0...
The lamp wiring as shown is correct, the common node wants to be connected to the neutral line...
Cheers!
seejayabney
Well-Known Member
So I got my temp controller today and it was missing one of the orange tabs used to secure it. I am assuming that is a specialty piece that I cant pick up at radio shack. Any thoughts other than sending it back for another one?
Rats!
First, contact the seller. Maybe they can send you the missing tab, or remediate (giving you a discount). I know contacting sellers on Amazon is hit and, more often, miss.
On the other hand, once installed, a bead of hot glue will hold it in place too.
The unit may have been a return for whatever reason. So check if you see any signs of use. Like the way the probe wire is coiled and tied, missing plastic foil from the face etc.
When you're committed to keep it, you should test it to make sure it works, before building it in a box and gluing it down.
seejayabney
Well-Known Member
I'll try contacting them. Also glad you mentioned to test it first. I was so frustrated by the missing tab that didn't even cross my mind.
I agree with Islandlizard. Contact the seller first. I had one shipped from Hong Kong that the cold relay wouldn't work. I shot them an email describing the problem, and they sent me a new unit free of charge, and I kept the old one, that I now use for the temp readings only. Worth a shot.
seejayabney
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately I contacted the seller and they are having me mail back the one without the clip.
ALSO, has anyone actually included a 10Amp fuse in their set up shown from this DIY Instructable? http://nordeastbrewersalliance.file...age_temp_controller_creation_instructions.pdf
I went to radioshack and of course they had no idea what type of 10amp fuse to use and neither did I.
alien
Well-Known Member
That's terrible, unless they pick up the shipping. Please post the name of that seller so we can avoid them.
Make sure the unit works before gluing or modifying it in any way.
There is no need for a fuse as long as you are not going to load the controller with more than 10A (= 1100 Watt @110V). So plugging in a 1500W space heater will certainly fry your STC-1000.
If you must, in a pinch you could use an "inline fuse," which you'd insert into the live (black) lead of your feed cable, inside the box. IMO it is unnecessary.
