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Easy Stove-Top Pasteurizing - With Pics

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Has anyone used this pasteurization method with Grolsch-style swing-cap bottles? If so did it work without any problems?
 
yes, i have, with 750 ml bottles. at high temp the rubber seals became loose and you could hear gas escaping, but in the end they still held gas
 
So I just did this with a 1 gallon carboy to some wine and at first It wasnt looking to promising. I used this technique for some wine that I wanted to stop fermenting at a FG so it would maintain residual sweetness but when I put it in the water I noticed that the yeast went crazy and started going at it like an animal. So after 10 minutes I was expecting it to stop with the bubbles but it didn't so I put it for 20 minutes and it was still going crazy. I took it out and laid it on the counter in defeat. Not only did I not stop fermenting but now it went past the FG I wanted and I guess I would have to just let it dry out.

But there and behold about 2 minutes later the yeast stopped! Victory was mine! So I guess if you are looking for this trchnique to stop it at a specific FG then you want to pasteurize at .01 above your desired FG.

Great technique thanks a bunch!
 
So this might have been asked before but not sure. I am going to bottle five gallons of cider tonight and plan on pasteurizing them with this method in the coming days to stop the fermentation. What I am wondering is this going to mess with the aging the cider will then go through in the bottle? I plan on aging it for a while (6 months to a year).
 
So this might have been asked before but not sure. I am going to bottle five gallons of cider tonight and plan on pasteurizing them with this method in the coming days to stop the fermentation. What I am wondering is this going to mess with the aging the cider will then go through in the bottle? I plan on aging it for a while (6 months to a year).

I don't know - the cider I use the pasteurizing method on is a light, draft-style cider which doesn't require aging, its ready to drink right away.

If you are making a bigger cider that will require some aging, perhaps you should let it age in the carboy, then backsweeten and bottle when you are ready?
 
Pappers,
On your website it says you bottle at around 1.010 and use priming sugar. Won't that cause bottle bombs? Or does it just carb up a lot quicker requiring a lot more checking of the bottles during conditioning?
 
Pappers,
On your website it says you bottle at around 1.010 and use priming sugar. Won't that cause bottle bombs? Or does it just carb up a lot quicker requiring a lot more checking of the bottles during conditioning?

I prime so that I keep the cider at about the same specific gravity as I measure it at. In other words, if I measure it at 1.010, then prime, bottle, carb and pastuerize, it ends up at about 1.010.

You can bottle, carb and pasteurize without adding the priming sugar, of course, because there are plenty of apple sugars left for the yeast to eat up.

At 1.010, the bottles are at risk of becoming bottle bombs, unless I stop the yeast, as I do with pasteurizing. Adding priming sugar doesn't make it more risky, in my experience.

In dozens of batches, I've had one bottle cap blow off, and no bottles exploding. But, that's using my cider, my process, etc. Your experience may be different.
 
Do they carb up a lot quicker that way since primary really isnt over yet? Just trying to make sense of it all before I try it. Thanks!
 
Do they carb up a lot quicker that way since primary really isnt over yet? Just trying to make sense of it all before I try it. Thanks!

I bottle before the yeast is done, so that the cider is still semi-dry (sweetish). Mine tend to carbonate to the level I like between 3 - 7 days. Again, your experience may be different.

I can't remember if I've already suggested this, so apologies for repeating if I have - you might check out www.makinghardcider.com for a very good explanation of another approach to making semi-dry bottle carbonated cider. In this method, you let the yeast ferment the cider all the way to dry, add an apple flavoring, backsweeten with a non-fermentable, prime with sugar and then bottle.
 
thanks a lot pappers! I dont think you mentioned that site to me before but that was the first site I found when I started making cider and it helped a ton. I seem to like your method a lot better. It seems to me that if you let it ferment totally dry to say .990 then it takes forever for your bottles to carbonate. Just my experience even though I dont have very much. haha thanks again!
 
I only got to page 13 before posting this, so I apologize if this has already been discussed or answered.

People are talking about the difficulty in getting the carbonation just right -- i.e., it easily overshoots their desired carbonation levels.

Here's what I think I'll try, if HBT thinks it's a good idea:

1) Let my cider fully ferment out dry.
2) Sweeten to desired sweetness level using honey.
3) Add corn sugar for desired volumes of CO2 (perhaps slightly less).

I'm thinking that the yeast should quickly eat all the corn sugar, but only slowly work on the sugar. So you should see an initial, quick rise in carbonation levels and then a slow rise due to the honey. This would also be helpful to me, as I like my apfelwein very carbonated, but don't want to blow my face off waiting to hit 3 vols.

Edit to say: Maybe the honey would have heat-resistant wild yeast? Is that possible?
 
I love this method - I did it over the weekend and it was easy and hassle free. And it appears to have been quite effective.

My only two set-backs were that I did seem to lose some carbonation, and I did have one bottle detonate while in the water. It was like a depth-charge going off in an old WWII movie about U-boats. Thankfully the lid was on the pot!
 
I've read a majority of this thread and I'm sure this has been asked before, but for the life of me I can't find it. I am wondering if anyone has come up with the time necessary to pasteurize half-liter, liter, and/or bomber-size bottles? I have five gallons to bottle in a few days, and I can use all 12 oz bottles if need be, but I'd prefer some variety.
 
Trying this for the first time today so far so good I have 2 pots big enough for this so going pretty quick. This was the first batch of 13 gallons and going for a second round of 13 :) Thanks again this was a big help!!!
 
I tried my hand at this. The 5th bottle I put in broke in half seconds after being put in the water. I sustained a long shallow cut on my hand for my trouble. This was partly my fault however, because some of the bottles I used were several years old. I cold crashed all the old bottles and pasteurized the fresh ones with no issues whatsoever.

I also used a pair of jar tongs to retrieve my bottles. It's a tool I use for home canning and it fits the contours of a beer bottle very well, too. For anyone out there who is serious about bottle pasteurizing, I think this is a worthwhile investment.
 
Are any of you using this method for other sweet carbed beverages like skeeter pee, or some kind of home made wine cooler?
 
When I pasteurized my first batch of cider, I definitely over sweetened. For a 3 gallon batch, I added two cans of concentrate, and a half cup of brown sugar. I waited about 5 days at room temperature. I bottled in 16oz Grolsch bottles with new seals. Out of 18 bottles, 7 of the seals were forced off the lid by too much pressure inside. Mind you, they didn't lose the seal completely, just forced one side of the gasket off the top of the bottle. They were spitting and whistling like crazy. I was carrying them around like they were hot plutonium!!! Goggles, tongs, gloves, the works! Thought for sure at any moment my house would be covered in glass and cider.
Anyways, I moved my entire batch to a plastic tote, and let them cool. Later that day, I carefully opened those affected bottles, and straightened the gasket, resealing when I was finished. To be on the safe side, I have kept that entire batch in the refrigerator since.
I'm wondering if I waited too long before pasteurizing??? Did I not leave enough head space??? (about an inch and a half)
BTW, my cider turned out great! Sweet and sparkling. Just what I wanted.

Colby Jack
 
Hello there. New guy here sucking up info in preparation for my first cider brew. I was just wondering if anybody has used the aluminum bud bottles in this pasteurization method? I would think the better conductivity of aluminum would transfer the heat better and there would be no risk of flying glass shards. A bonus would be 16 oz vs 12 oz meaning less bottles to clean before bottling.

Thanks,
Greg
 
Has anyone tried this with wine bottles yet? The main thing I am worried about is the corks popping out due to the increased pressure inside the bottles. I will be bottling a still wassail next week.
 
When I pasteurized my first batch of cider, I definitely over sweetened. For a 3 gallon batch, I added two cans of concentrate, and a half cup of brown sugar. I waited about 5 days at room temperature. I bottled in 16oz Grolsch bottles with new seals. Out of 18 bottles, 7 of the seals were forced off the lid by too much pressure inside. Mind you, they didn't lose the seal completely, just forced one side of the gasket off the top of the bottle. They were spitting and whistling like crazy. I was carrying them around like they were hot plutonium!!! Goggles, tongs, gloves, the works! Thought for sure at any moment my house would be covered in glass and cider.
Anyways, I moved my entire batch to a plastic tote, and let them cool. Later that day, I carefully opened those affected bottles, and straightened the gasket, resealing when I was finished. To be on the safe side, I have kept that entire batch in the refrigerator since.
I'm wondering if I waited too long before pasteurizing??? Did I not leave enough head space??? (about an inch and a half)
BTW, my cider turned out great! Sweet and sparkling. Just what I wanted.

Colby Jack

Did you mix all of that together and put it straight into bottles or did you put it into a carboy or fermenter for five days?
 
Thanks for this sticky. I stove-top pasteurized a cider this morning and it seems to have worked well. Quick question. I do have some lees left in the bottom of the bottles from my carbing proces, which are now re-suspended by the convection currents created during pasteurization. How long do these normally take to settle back out?

A hint as well. When you pick a plastic soft drink bottle to use as your indicator for when the carbonation is as you like it, try to match the carbonation of the beverage in question with the desired carbonation of the beverage you are making. I use Perrier bottles for ciders.
 
Did you mix all of that together and put it straight into bottles or did you put it into a carboy or fermenter for five days?

After reading your question, I re-read my post. i was clear as mud, for sure, but didn't want to write a novel for my first post ever.

According to my notes, I had 3 gallons juice, 2tsp yeast nutrient, 2 tsp pectic enzyme, and a tube of nottingham yeast. 4 days later, I added 2/3 cup light brown sugar boiled in 2 cups water, then chilled. On day 12, racked cider onto 1 tsp pectic enzyme, 2 cans GV apple juice concentrate. Produced 19 grolsch bottles.

What I think went wrong was I let the bottles boil too long-- after reading this entire thread, I'm still not certain if I should actively boil them, or cut the heat, cover, and wait 10 minutes. Either way, bottles have carbed up nicely, and I have become a superstar to SWMBO.

BTW, I just bottled 2nd batch last night. Used 2 pounds brown sugar, 6 gallons of GV apple juice from concentrate, dry nottingham, 3 tsp pectic enzyme, and 3 tsp yeast nutrient. I racked on to 1/2 cup cane sugar in 2 cups water, yielding 44 pints. I also used a plastic tester bottle to know when to pasteurize. I stopped racked to secondary about a week in, just to clear it up. This is a huge success. Cheaper to make. Less steps. Not as sweet. This is my type of cider, not hers. I got down to 1.018 before I bottled.
Colby Jack
 
ColbyJack said:
What I think went wrong was I let the bottles boil too long-- after reading this entire thread, I'm still not certain if I should actively boil them, or cut the heat, cover, and wait 10 minutes.

No, don't let it boil - either the water or the cider. I used 190 degree waters, others use 170. But boiling is too hot.
 
No, don't let it boil - either the water or the cider. I used 190 degree waters, others use 170. But boiling is too hot.

Thanks Pappers. :cool: I just bought the floating thermometer, and have moved my brewing to the garage with a gas-fired burner. Much more control, and space, I hope. :mug:

Colby Jack
 
Tonight I plan on bottling a very simple cider like pappy's recipe. The only difference is that I used Red Star Montreche yeast (had it in the fridge). I may have to backsweeten with concentrate a little more than I'd intended, this stuff's gone wild. Guess that's what I get for using wine yeast. Going to try to be very close to 1.01 when I bottle.

Anyhow, I figure that within a day I'll need to pasteurize, especially if this stuff continues going like it has been. I have mostly 22 oz. bottles because I hate bottling. How long would you leave them in the water to be sure all the yeast is dead. My guess is it'll be longer than the smaller bottles.

Thanks for any help
 
Tonight I plan on bottling a very simple cider like pappy's recipe. The only difference is that I used Red Star Montreche yeast (had it in the fridge). I may have to backsweeten with concentrate a little more than I'd intended, this stuff's gone wild. Guess that's what I get for using wine yeast. Going to try to be very close to 1.01 when I bottle.

Anyhow, I figure that within a day I'll need to pasteurize, especially if this stuff continues going like it has been. I have mostly 22 oz. bottles because I hate bottling. How long would you leave them in the water to be sure all the yeast is dead. My guess is it'll be longer than the smaller bottles.

Thanks for any help

This wasn't your question, but I'm reading between the lines and wanted to check on something. When I bottle cider, the fermentation has died down, it doesn't look like an active fermentation at that point, the yeast are still working, but have slowed down. I don't use wine yeast in cider, so I don't know how it works, but if it seems really active, I wouldn't bottle.

As for your question, I can't say from experience pasteurizing 22 oz bottles, but I'm sure others will come along who have. I would try what you are suggesting - put a bottle in for a few extra minutes. But I really think 10 minutes should probably do it, especially if you don't crowd the pot with bottles.
 
Huh. Maybe I should have logged in BEFORE I bottled tonight...

I have very little experience with ale yeasts, one batch of pale ale from extracts, so I didn't realize my batch was that different. Compared to the last few days, my air lock activity slowed WAY down, which is to say 1 bubble every 4-5 seconds instead of 1-2.

I checked the hydrometer tonight and it read 1.011-1.012 so I decided I'd just bottle without adding any priming sugar. Never bottled a drink that was so carbonated before. Took a little longer.

I filled several PET bottles. I'll keep a very close eye on them. Before I go to work in the morning I'll probably put all the bottles into the garage where my high temp tomorrow will probably be 55 degrees to slow them down.

I guess in the next few days I'll have new experiences to share. I will likely go from filling up the primary to pasteurized in less than a week. :drunk: We'll see how that turns out.
 
Hi,

I have my first batch of cider fermenting right now and I would like to try this method. My question is, when I went to my LHBS they talked me out of using nottingham ale yeast and gave me champagne yeast instead. Will this have any additional adverse affects over ale yeast when it comes time to pasteurize on the stove?

Also, my bottles are mostly recycled sam adams bottles, some of which may be a few years old that I have used for bottling beer, would they be more fragile than newer bottles and more likely to pop?
 
Huh. Maybe I should have logged in BEFORE I bottled tonight...

I have very little experience with ale yeasts, one batch of pale ale from extracts, so I didn't realize my batch was that different. Compared to the last few days, my air lock activity slowed WAY down, which is to say 1 bubble every 4-5 seconds instead of 1-2.

I checked the hydrometer tonight and it read 1.011-1.012 so I decided I'd just bottle without adding any priming sugar. Never bottled a drink that was so carbonated before. Took a little longer.

I filled several PET bottles. I'll keep a very close eye on them. Before I go to work in the morning I'll probably put all the bottles into the garage where my high temp tomorrow will probably be 55 degrees to slow them down.

I guess in the next few days I'll have new experiences to share. I will likely go from filling up the primary to pasteurized in less than a week. :drunk: We'll see how that turns out.

Don't worry to much. Even though I posted before that I got into trouble by pasteurizing during active fermentation, these problems turned out to be related to the bottles I used in combination with the capper.

I have done two more 5 gallon batches that I stopped mid-fermentation at about 1.010 with the pasteurization method and they turned out great and no bottle exploded in the last weeks. You just have to be prepared to pasteurize on a whim after just a few days in the bottle, a week max. I also do multiple PETs to not miss the point.

Thanks a million, Pappers, my ideal of an all natural but still somewhat apple-y sweet hard cider without any addition of sugar / back sweeteners is only possible because of your detailed instructions!!
 
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